Hello! friends

Welcome to my another 2k16 "3 watt energy saver" project. In this project i'm gonna show you how to make your own homemad energy saver by using dead energy saver. Don't waste your old or dead energy saver. It's very easy to build.

So, let's get started.

Step 1: Materials

Materials you'll need

Energy saver (dead or old)


1 watt x 3 smd led

Elfy or UHU

Electrical tape

3 watt led driver


Step 2: Disassembling

Take an energy saver and open it like that you don't need upper part of energy saver (recomended for other projects tell you later) we need only lower part of the energy saver.

Step 3: Marking

Put the lower part of energy saver onto the cardboard and marking it with the pen and cut it down according the marking. As you can see that in a picture.

Step 4: Pasting Smd Led

Take a piece of cardboard which one you cut it down according to previous step now put some elfy or UHU on a cardboard and place the smd led according to the picture.

Step 5: Connections

Now connect the all 3 smd leds in a series like (+ - + -) and make a hole at the center of the cardboard then pass the +ve and -ve wires through the cardboard hole and then connect those wires with led driver (+ve goes to +ve and -ve goes to -ve). Also connect the AC wires (which one comes through the lower part of the energy saver) with the led driver at AC side according to the picture.

Step 6: Assembling

Now join the leds cardboard with the lower part of the energy saver by using UHU or hot glue according to the pictures. Finally your 3 watt energy saver is ready to use.

Step 7: Finish

Your energy is ready to use. Attach it into the holder and enjoy a bright light of the homemade 3 watt energy saver.

Share it with your friends and wait for my new project.

I hope you guys like it.


<p>This is an excellent idea to modify a CFL into an LED... I have thought about doing this, but never did it because of being lazy. LOL I love this project!</p>
<p>Where did you get the LED driver board? Was it a complete board or did you have to build it from components?</p>
<p>p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line-height: 120%; }a:link { }</p><br><p>p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line-height: 120%; }a:link { }</p><p><strong>A<br>good project.</strong></p><p><strong>But<br>I would use a piece of thin pcb 94 V0 1.6mm or thinner preferably<br>with no tracks or tracks taken off, or other fire retardant<br>material.</strong></p><p><strong>Be<br>careful not to breath in the dust from cutting the pcb.</strong></p><p><strong>The<br>above should be used as a fault condition could cause a fire, the<br>cardboard and glues would burn.</strong></p><p>I<br>would also add a thermal fuse say a Thermodisc 117&ordm;C <a href="http://uk.farnell.com/thermodisc/g4a01117c/fuse-thermal-117-c/dp/187033" rel="nofollow">G4A01117C</a><br>and a 1 Amp or lower fuse in series in the mains live lamp i/p centre<br>connection for US and European E14/E27 lamps.</p><p><strong>The<br>Thermodisc melts if the temperature gets to 117</strong><strong>&ordm;</strong><strong>C<br></strong><strong>thus<br>protecting against fire and the 1 Amp or lower protects against<br></strong><strong>electrical<br></strong><strong>fault<br>conditions.</strong></p><p><strong>I<br>believe with USA and Europe </strong>Edison<br>screw bases <strong>lamp<br>(E14, E27) the live is the centre contact, </strong><strong>t</strong><strong>h</strong><strong>e<br>thr</strong><strong>ead<br>is the return,</strong></p><p><strong>In<br>the UK where I live </strong>Bayonet<br>styles are used as the two<br>connections are on the base the metal surround and bayonet pins are<br>isolated from the mains so live could be either.</p><p><strong>The<br>glue should also be </strong><a href="http://uk.farnell.com/araldite/araldite-2011-50ml/adhesive-cartridge-50ml/dp/1759523" rel="nofollow">ARALDITE</a><br>as this will secure the<br>parts permanently.</p><p>One last thing I<br>would make the disk a friction fit in to the CFL and fit a diffuser<br>over the disk, gluing both in securely..</p><p>This will make the<br>assembly safe, as live mains could be present on the secondary (low<br>voltage) led again in a fault condition.</p><p>It;s worth looking<br>on the web as there are lots of circuits and help, found this one on<br>YouTube : -</p><p><strong><a href="http://uk.ask.com/youtube?q=Mains+3+watt+led+driver&v=piET0Biqo0I" rel="nofollow">http://uk.ask.com/youtube?q=Mains+3+watt+led+driver&amp;v=piET0Biqo0I</a></strong></p><p><strong>I<br>converted my home to LED's some years ago nearly all from Lidl (none<br>have failed) when they started selling them.</strong></p><p><strong>Just<br>for interest I have found that approximately a 1 W LED = 10 W tungsten.</strong></p><p><strong>My house lamp wattage for Tungsten = 1300 W with all LED's =<br>132 W.</strong></p><p><strong>By<br>replacing LED&rsquo;s for tungsten approximately 90% saving in power.</strong></p><p><strong>By<br>replacing LED&rsquo;s for </strong><strong>tung</strong><strong>sten<br>approximately 90% saving in power.</strong></p>
<p>Good work</p>
<p>Nice idea, I think i found my next weekend project. Thanks</p>
i hope you like it
<p>Nice idea</p>
<p>As a side note, these will not work very well on ceiling fans because of a circuit in the ceiling fan light connectors which are supposed to remove flicker from incandescent lights by shunting spikes out: The LED lights draw such a small amount of current, the limiting circuit will cause a flicker on the LEDs connected to the ceiling fan because they are either on or off as opposed to indescents which have a time lag for the filiment to cool off and heat up. I called Hunter (company that makes mine for example) and they had me remove the limiting device from inside the light fixture on the ceiling fan so now it works correctly. I think this is not too much to do with your instruct-able (sorry about that!), but if one would put one of these in a ceiling fan, they would think the bulb is malfunctioning because of the blinking they could encounter.. Other devices are built similarly to keep in mind.. Just sayin'...</p>
It's working fine there is no problem in it. I'm using it since 2 months it's not flicker at all<br>
<p>I love it but I'm concerned about the cardboard base for those power leds.</p>
Except for the fact you can have mains voltage at the exposed terminals that's kinda neat, I have some LED bulbs which died and I want to replace the LEDs, but I don't know how to build a propper driver that isn't flickery or bulky.
<p>LED drivers are like .99$ each form ebay :)</p>
You just simply buy a driver From eBay or you just build your own circuit. There are lots of circuit avaliable on Internet <br>
These drivers he used are actualy isolated from the mains (except the 10n capacitor from mains to low voltage side (these are a must on smps))
<p>LED drivers are like .99$ each form ebay :)</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I am a student of BSCS but I'm interested in electronics that's why I would like to think about innovative ideas and try ... More »
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