*--- UPDATE ----*
It's been a few months since settling into the new space and I finally was able to devote more time to my little project.  It has grown quite a bit and I do mean quite.  What started as a simple precursor to a half track is now something far bigger.  Read on
Some years ago, I had some scrap aircraft aluminum that I was using to practice riveting techniques with.  As I got to drilling and countersinking, I realized that if I am going to be drilling holes and putting in fasteners, it might as well be for something more than just some scrap bits and pieces.  My scrap aluminum became a Go Kart and it went very well.  With some Home Depot materials and stuff lying around my garage, I cobbled together a 2 seater that at half throttle was clocked at 15mph.  Since then, I moved twice and the Go Kart is gone....well, the frame is.  But the engine, wheels and transmission (a Torque-A-Verter torque converter) are still here.  This project started out as a prelude to building a 4x6 Go Kart/ATV/Replica mini APV (I have these huge ATV wheels to play with), I went puttering around the Internet and found the plans from SpiderCarts (www.spidercarts.com) and what intrigued me most was their 3 wheeler.  Looked around my shop and lo!  I have wheels, sprockets, bearings, chains, tons of nuts and bolts, cables.....Now if I can make the same kind of thing but NOT weld a darn thing....

As I got to work and I assembled my frame, I found that the use of a single back wheel posed some problems with the parts I have.  Specifically, my rules were that I was not to use (or try real hard to not use) anything I did not already have, and if I needed it and couldn't make it, then and only then could I go buy it.  In this case, the problem was the brake.  I had these lovely disc brakes, but they were meant for a 1" shaft and they were meant to not mount to a wheel.  After much trying, I found that the brake calipers just would not accomodate this concept, so I shifted gears.  The first few steps take you up to the point when I realized my problem, and then I continue with the resultant design.  Here's the thing though: the drive system as I have completed it allows my MMV to be a 2x6, a 4x6 a half track and by locking the steering, a tank, or a 4x6 skid steer.  So follow along won't you?

As you might imagine then, this is a work in progress. 

Step 1: Inventory and the Rear Wheel

Here are my basic rules again:

1) Buy very little extra stuff
2) If I must buy something, try to get it at Home Depot or Lowes or Ace or whatever hardware store I can reach
3) If it is something specialized (like a sprocke)t, get it on the cheap, even if it means cannibalizing something else
4) Use the maximum amount of parts I already have (I actually made this a design constraint -- if I had it, I had to make it fit/work)

If you have to, adapt my design, steps or parts to accomodate what you can get your hands on. 

With that out of the way, let's start with the rear wheel.  Here are the parts I had available to me:

 1) 3 differentials, the sort you buy at Northern Tool.  38" axle with a 1" diameter with lots of slots for keyways.
 2) 1x #41 chain sprocket from Northern Tool (hole pattern fits the differentials)
 3) 2x 5" Brake disc with 1" bore hub (Northern Tool)
 4) 2x 36"x1"x1" square steel tube (Home Depot) -- rear frame stringers
 5) 4x 1" Pillow Block bearings (anywhere on eBay, I got mine for $15 delivered) -- frame step but needed it here to verify design
 6) 8x 3/8" nuts, 8x3/8" bolts and 16x3/8" washers
 7) 2x Airheart mechanical disc brake caliper (Northern Tool) -- we will need these when we do the frame
 8) 4 right angle brackets (2" are good), again, Home Depot
 9) 4 C-Channels, preferable out of steel, 3/4" steel is good.  If you can't find any, improvise with square tubing.  These are for the engine mount.  I used left over pieces of channel from the wall mount for my LCD TV -- remember, recycle, re-use, re-purpose.
10) 6 wheels and tires, 4x1" hubs (hubs from Northern, wheels from Surplus Center) and 2x1" hubs with roller bearings in there (front wheels for steering don't need to be bolted down to the drive shafts).  I used the aforementioned ATV wheels and tires, but what will drive you are the size of your brake discs and drive sprocket.
11) 4 smaller 1" #35 chain sprockets
12) A length of #41 chain
13) 2 lengths of #35 chain
did you know im a professional macanic (sorry about the spell im rushing) so if you need help on cars or gokart not vans or bikes im terrible at them but cars and gokart's im ya man so if ya follow me on instuctables I can help ya on that topic thanks, <br> <br>ya friend rhys
Thank you. My next step in the design's evolution (after it is running), is a fully articulated suspension.
i'm your first follower, gr8 job <br> <br> <br>
Thanks. The design has changed quite a bit since I started this because I discovered a few things:<br><br>The layout of the back wheel made mounting the brake calipers much harder and necessitated a revisit to the whole concept. As much as I liked the concept, what I really was trying to do was make the base vehicle for a half track so I had to step back and rethink it all. I kept the frame but took my ATV wheels that I had in the garage and mounted them so that it can be a half track, a 2x6, a 4x6 and a full tank, as well as a skid steer 6 wheeler. I'll update the chronicle later tonight hopefully. At this time, the drive train is done and I am working on the front end. One thing I do have to do different is mount the seat high, effectively above the engine, because this thing is HUGE!
it remembers me a <a href="http://deda.cgsociety.org/gallery/313799/" rel="nofollow">prototype car</a> I designed lot of years ago with 3DStudioMax...

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