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$3.50 DIY TV-B-Gone Micro

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I previously made a slideshow on my DIY TV-B-Gone, and many people requested I make an Instructable. So, the first in a series of DIY TV-B-Gone clones, is the TV-B-Gone Micro!

Technically, because TV-B-Gone is a brand name, this is a "TV-B-Gone clone."

The TV-B-Gone is a neat little device that can turn almost any TV on or off. It uses a microcontroller hooked up to IR LEDs to output a library of on/off codes. Adafruit sells a kit, and has the code as well as the schematic on their website.

Here's a micro clone of the TV-B-Gone that runs on a coin cell battery, is slightly bigger than a quarter, and costs about $3.50 (compared to $20) to make!
 
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Step 1: Materials and Tools

Picture of Materials and Tools
TVBGONE schematic.JPG
Here is a list of what you will need.

Materials: All of these prices are if you buy only one of each part. If you buy in bulk, like I did, it will actually have a cheaper unit price. For me the total was less than $3.50, for you maybe more if you only buy one of each part.

You will also need some 2032 batteries to power it. DON'T FORGET!

Tools:
  • AVR programmer (I used a USBtinyISP, a good, cheap programmer made from a kit)
  • Computer with internet access; I predict you are using one right now :-)
  • Soldering iron with solder
  • Helping hands tools, very helpful
Now let's get started!
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harnon made it!4 months ago

Hello,

Nice 'instructables', thanks!

I put mine in a solar-powered-light-keychain box, re-using the battery and solar cell system. Let see how the powering goes with the time (everybody know the limits of these so called cheap rechargeable batteries). Anyway, had fun doing it !

I used the version without resonator because of the space inside the box. It is now at least 3 meters range (couldn't test more, my TV remains unused in the garage ... and the garage is 3 meters long ;o )

I used usbasp programmer and all worked fine.

Thanks again.

IMG_6470.JPGIMG_6473.JPG
happydupa made it!4 months ago

Hey dark sponge, just wanted to show you the cool TV-B-Gone I made from your instructable. I decided to build it on perf-board so that it would fit into the Altoids smalls case. I didn't want to open the case to press the button so I drilled a small hole in the cover (look close, it's right above the "A" in Altoids) and glued it using JB Weld. The button was kind of tough to press so I put a tiny drop of JB Weld on top the button just to give it some height. It's awesome.

Thanks again

CYMERA_20140306_174447[1].jpgCYMERA_20140306_174317[1].jpg
happydupa4 months ago

Aubtin. I was looking for an inexpensive programmer to make this Instructable. After a lot of looking, I came across this and bought it. It's only $4.99 and has free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/161128775429?ssPageName=ST...

Two things: It only comes with a 10 pin connector cable. But if you look at the pinouts of the 10 pin and the 6 pin cables, they have the same data lines. The 10 pin connector just has 4 extra unused ones. So it's pretty easy to run wires from the 10 pin connector to your programmer board and make it work. I did.

The second thing is that this instructable is written to use the USBtinyisp programmer. When I tried to use my programmer it failed. Here's the trick. You need to edit the AVR instructions to tell it to use a different programmer. Copy and paste this and then it will work:

Avrdude -c usbasp -p
attiny85 -U lfuse:w:0xfe:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m

Followed by:

avrdude -c usbasp -p attiny85 -U
flash:w:tvbgone.hex

Aubtin4 months ago

I am planning on buying the equipment and all the components in the list to make this. I am new to this though, would this programmer work for the project?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USBtinyISP-v3-0-Programmer...

Thanks

aaroncmears5 months ago

Hey, I'm trying to figure out how to make one of these, and I'm using an ATTiny85 (not "v") and a 5v voltage regulator with a 9v battery. How would I write the program to my ATTiny85 from the Arduino IDE? Or is it even possible? Thanks!

I also used ATTiny85 not v and it works fine.... and are you using Arduino as ISP to program the attiny85? I used Arduino as ISP as the usbtinyISP I ordered from ebay is scheduled to arrive in a couple of weeks..... I don't think there's a direct way to upload/program the attiny85 using the IDE.... So, I installed avrdude on my OS (Lubuntu 13.10) and used these commands:

(writing fuse)

avrdude -cavrisp -pattiny85 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b19200 -U lfuse:w:0xfe:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m -v -v -v -v

flashing .hex file (.hex file must be in the directory the terminal is currently in)

avrdude -cavrisp -pattiny85 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b19200 -U flash:w:tvbgone.hex

It worked without any error and I am happy to switch my home TV on and off for once.....

In trying this out, I got the fuses set alright (as you said, so I don't know whether or not I'll need the resonator with it), but I'm getting this error when I put the avrdude -cavrisp -pattiny85 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b19200 -U flash:w:tvbgone.hex in there:

avrdude -cavrisp -pattiny85 -P/dev/tty.usbmodem641 -b19200 -U flash:w:tvbgone.hex

avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.05s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.05s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.05s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000

avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature.

Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override

this check.

avrdude done. Thank you.

Should I just override it with -F?

I think you may have set the fuses to use the external resonator....... and because there's no external resonator connected, the MCU wont work.... that's you get the

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000

error. To fix this, you will need to provide a 8mhz external signal into the MCU to program it

Alright, thanks! And is the fuse setting for with or without the resonator?

The one i provided is with the external resonator... and after setting the fuses you will need the resonator connected before actually flashing anything into its memory

Thanks for all your help so far, I haven't had any luck finding resonators (crystal or ceramic) anywhere local. I could potentially order one from the internet, but I'd rather avoid it if I could for time's sake. How would I go about setting the fuses to on the attiny85 to 8mhz from my Arduino without a resonator?

TYOM6 months ago

I Have been trying to use arduino to program this but nothing has worked, if anyone has the the code for the arduino or can help me please reply.

bneo99 TYOM5 months ago

I don't think we can use the Arduino IDE to flash it (there should be a way but I'm not sure) So, I installed avrdude on my OS (Lubuntu 13.10) and used these commands:

(writing fuse)

avrdude -cavrisp -pattiny85 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b19200 -U lfuse:w:0xfe:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m -v -v -v -v

flashing .hex file (.hex file must be in the directory the terminal is currently in)

avrdude -cavrisp -pattiny85 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b19200 -U flash:w:tvbgone.hex

bneo99 made it!5 months ago

Following the same schematic, i changed it to pcb version (1st time etching pcb (used toner transfer (ironing) and ferric chloride as etchant) for higher durability...... used an IR LED that I salvaged from random parts as the sole LED as the IR LEDs I ordered from Ebay is only going to arrive in a couple of weeks.... bought the wrong capacitor but it still works, resonator and ATTINY85 from rs components and the rest(everything exclude mcu, resonator, battery) from a local online electronic shop

P1050686.JPG
rutabaga_man5 months ago

i had started this a few years ago but kept running into problems programming the chip, so i just fixed the problem and the chip is programmed. so i am wondering how hardy the chips are when it comes to soldering. (how easy is it to burn them out with heat?)

happydupa6 months ago
Dark Sponge, you rock! I've wanted one of these forever but couldn't justify the high cost of a pre-made one. I can't wait to start building. One request. I hate the coin batteries. Can you tell me if I can substitute a 9v for the coin? If not, can you suggest how I would modify the circuit to accept one?

Thanks!
dark sponge (author)  happydupa6 months ago
You can replace it with 2 AA batteries in series or build something similar to this, which uses a 9v instead. http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-TV-B-Gone-SHP-And-Save-45/
oluzon8 months ago
i did everything excatlly likeyou did except i used arduino to program attiny, then i used a program to upload the hex file to my attiny, i tried doing the circuit twice, but it stilll dosent work, help?
titan691 year ago
Hi there, how would i change the fuses using an arduino uno, i get a blinking led working on the attiny85 using the arduino but cant seem to figure out how to do this step with only an aduino uno.
Edit

Figured it out, what i did was i used the ardunio-1.0.1 software and did the following:

1- Opened Arduino program and selected tools>board>Attiny85(external 20mhz clock)
2- Click open tab and click ArduinoISP.
3- Connected all wires of arduino uno to attiny85.
4- Then navigated to C:\Users\arduino-1.0.1\hardware\tools\avr\bin and opened this path in command prompt.
5- Entered the following command (remember to put your com port):

avrdude -p attiny85 -P com6 -c stk500v1 -b 19200 -U lfuse:w:0xfe:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m

And everthing worked.
oluzon titan698 months ago
I was still confused about steps 4 and 5, could either make a short video, or go more into depth?
dark sponge (author)  titan691 year ago
Glad you figured it out, sorry for the late reply. Thanks for leaving the how-to for other people!
kcatx9 months ago
Nerver mind I got it working I was looking at the pics and it looks like u connet something to pin 7 but then I looked at the schematic and saw there was nothing connected
kcatx9 months ago
Hey I need some help I built the tv b gone on the bread bored and it worked great and now that I have soldered it together it won't work do u think I fryed my attiny85 I am using 1.1 firmware
aaron01279 months ago
Hey can i buy one of those ic chips from you preprogramed?
theengine2r11 months ago
Great instructable!
i've made my own TVBG on my breadboard and it's work!
I added 2 IR so, totally there 4 leds and powered by 2 AA battery. Can't wait to try this with the big screen TV in school LOL
psp360111 months ago
Hi,
I just finished putting the v1.1 together on a breadboard to test it and I was wondering if I could add two IR LEDs for a total of four, would I have to increase the battery voltage from 3v to something like 4.5v? (Wouldn't be much of a problem since I'm going to use AA batteries, just need to use a 3 battery holder instead of 2) or would I just have to add a transistor?

Thanks,

Great instructable by the way!
I just built one and I'm having a bit of an issue that I can't figure out. I tested the chip on a breadboard and it worked. I built the micro and the first time I pointed it at a TV it turned on. Then it wouldn't shut the TV off. After trying a few times with no luck I started checking out the LED's through a camera. Whenever I press the button something different happens. Sometimes they will "blip" once, sometimes they flash a couple of times then stop, and every once in a while they blink like they're running through the sequence. I've triple checked all the connections and everything appears to be in order. I'm also assuming that it's wired up correctly because it did work that first time. I tried ruling out a faulty button by bypassing it with a jumper but got the same result. Anybody have any thoughts about what might be going on?
dark sponge (author)  thegoodjeremy1 year ago
Yes! I had a similar problem when I first breadboarded it. Putting in a filter capacitor fixed it. I then found the lowest value that would still get rid of these stops. Try using a much larger filter cap and see what happens.
Dylon1241 year ago
Is the 22uF capacitor used only to decouple the voltage from the cro2032 battery. Because you may not need it since the battery's voltage is pretty stable. good job though!
crusso1 year ago
Great instructable!!!!!
Just one question: would it work with an ATTINY85-20PU?
dark sponge (author)  crusso1 year ago
I'm pretty sure it would. You might want to double check codes for burning the fuses but I don't think it's that different.
would a 22uF 50v capacitor work?
hilukasz1 year ago
do you even need the resonator? since you can reset the fuses on attiny so it runs at 8mhz?
dark sponge (author)  hilukasz1 year ago
Nope! See steps 2 and 4.
I'm building a V1.2 with one of these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10732 Instead of two. What parts can I remove? Can I get away with just the capacitor, the led thing, the resonator, and the microcontroller? I plan on connecting the power wire directly to the batteries, and the digital wire to the microcontroller. Also, if I do that, should I add an extra capacitor, or just have the power for both run through the same one. And lastly, can you help me modify the code so that it stops when you let go of the button instead? Or maybe let me change between the two options with a switch? I'm putting it inside a toy sonic screwdriver. Please reply ASAP, I have a birthday party coming up and I need to finish it.
dark sponge (author)  furrysalamander1 year ago
If you use that LED, the only things you can take out are the transistor and the resistor that connects it to the microcontroller. Just connect the CTL pin of the LED chip to the output pin on the microcontroller. You shouldn't have to add an additional capacitor, but if the microcontroller resets often you may want to substitute a larger one.

As for the code, you shouldn't have to modify it. I would recommend leaving the button in the way it is right now to save battery, but if you want to wire it for single press operation there should be a schematic on Adafruit's website. The microcontroller would be wired directly to power but the sense pin (pin 6 I think) would have the button between it and ground.

Version 1.1 has worked perfectly fine for me and I've never found a TV I can't turn off.

Good luck and have fun! I'll try to respond more quickly next time if you have any more questions.
Okay, so I've poked around in the code, and I now know that the 1.1 has way less codes. Is there a way to merge the codes and the format from 1.2 with the main program from 1.1 so that I can use a 1.1 circuit? Or probably simpler, just modify the 1.2 code to work with a 1.1 circuit? I really need help, and I'm pretty sure that this can be done. Also, as far as hold down button until tv turns off and let go, this would require changes to the circuit as well. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE help me figure this out, this is my best friend and I need to have everything ready to order within the next two days because their birthday is on the 13th. :-|
Wait, does v1.2 have more codes? I'm fine with sticking with v1.1 if they have the same amount of codes!
Please please please help me!
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