350kv Van de Graaff Generator by Higgs Boson
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This is a Van de Graaff Generator that I designed and built for use with many electrostatic experiments. I attempted to make a vdg about a year ago, but the design was very poor and the project ultimately failed. I still really wanted to make one though so recently I decided to go back to the drawing board and make a better vdg that would actually work. Because I do not have access to a machine shop for my personal projects I constructed this completely with off the shop parts, and I am happy to say everything fit together quite nicely.
 
A brief note on safety
A Van de Graaff Generator is capable of generating extremely high voltages, but it is very safe due to the very low current, and quick dissipation of the arcs. For almost all people, the vdg will not adversely affect you in any way (I can't say the same for your sensitive electronics), but if you have a bad heart, it would be a good idea to steer clear of a Van de Graaff generator.

IF you like this instructable, be sure to vote for it in the Make to Learn Youth contest and other contests!

Judges see step 10 for contest information.




 
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Step 1: How it works

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What good is any project if you don't know any of the theory behind it?

Well it just so happens that the Van de Graaff generator works on a very simple principle. I'm sure you are all familiar with what happens when you walk on carpet with rubber shoes on a very dry day. Your hair stands up, and you are able to send electricity arcing through the air to the dismay of anyone arms reach away from you. This occurs because of something known as triboelectric transfer. When you walk on the carpet the carpet will exchange a charge with you. As you continue walking the charge continues to build until your body does not have the capacity to hold anymore charge, or you get too close to something that has a difference in potential and all the charge suddenly leaks from your body through a path of ionized air.

A Van de graaff generator takes advantage of triboelectric transfer by using a belt on two rollers to carry a charge from a metal comb to another metal comb where the charge gets transferred to a metal sphere.

In construction, the vdg is extremely simple, but the principle that it works on is far more complex. For example, these generators do not have their belt rub on the rollers as rubber shoes do on floors. The triboelectric transfer occurs simply through contact not friction. This does mean however, that the type materials that the vdg belt comes in contact with on the rollers is crucial to opperation. To be effective the materials of the two rollers should be on opposite ends of the triboelectric series, and the belt should be made from a material that falls somewhere in between them in the series. Triboelectric series is nothing more than a list of materials ordered by their triboelectric effect, or the way they exchange charges with other materials. Since the vdg relies on this affect if the two rollers are triboelectrically identical no charge can be built up. In fact, the orientation of the rollers is what determines the polarity of the output. In my case I used teflon for the bottom roller and aluminium for the top so I got a positive output. Swapping the rollers would give me a negative output.

The rollers and belts are only part of the story though. If you look at the diagram above, you can see that two metal combs or brushes are used on the machine. the bottom brush is grounded, and removes the charge from the the top electrode. The top brush transfers the charge from the belt to the top sphere. To better understand what happens with the brushes it would be better to think about an example. Imagine a vdg with a positive output. as the belt comes down from the top roller to the bottom roller, it is carrying electrons from the top brush. As it approaches the bottom brush, the charge is sufficient to ionize the air between the brush and the belt and the electrons move to ground. as the belt continues along, it is triboelectrically charged by the bottom roller to be positive. As it goes across the top roller it begins to pull electrons from the top sphere, leaving unpaired protons, and therefore positively charging the top sphere.

The top sphere of the machine itself is actually highly important to the output of the vdg for many reasons. For example, with the above parameters there is no reason why a vdg couldn't continue building up a charge forever, that is if it wasn't for the fact that for one thing there are only so many unpaired protons that could be left on the sphere, and because any kind of small imperfection or point on the sphere would begin to cause corona discharge, where the charge literally leaks off the sphere and into the air causing a large amount of losses. That being said, The bigger, rounder and smoother the sphere on the top of the vdg, the higher the output it is capable of reaching. 

I certainly haven't covered everything, and there is a lot more going on in the operation of vdg's, but hopefully now you understand the basics of how they work.



jasshopper says: May 12, 2013. 1:43 AM
well, i'm not making this for a specific use or for a project i want some nice long arcs and couldn't this make your hair stand straight?
Higgs Boson (author) says: May 14, 2013. 3:36 PM
So go with the teflon on top and aluminum on the bottom, and yes if you are insulated from ground if you hold the sphere your hair should stand up.
jasshopper says: May 10, 2013. 9:40 AM
Which roller is better to keep on top (+ve one or -ve one)? and can i use woollen coloured thread(crafty one) instead of aluminium? coz wool is more "-ve" right?
Higgs Boson (author) says: May 11, 2013. 2:45 PM
It depends on what you're trying to do. If you want longer arcs then put the teflon roller on the top. I wanted positive for future projects, but most people just want longer arcs. I don't know about the thread. I chose aluminum because it is easy to cover the roller with. Thread, not so much. Whether it would work better or not I don't know.
manishkes says: Apr 16, 2013. 1:13 PM
Why does it have to be brushes, why not just a piece of metal? How are brushes different than a block of metal for transferring the electrons?
Higgs Boson (author) says: Apr 17, 2013. 2:35 PM
Because the Brushes have a sharp point, and that's important. Corona discharge will not occur if there is no sharp point (or at least too little to do anything).
newnarutofan says: Mar 26, 2013. 4:22 PM
How do you make a discharge wand
newnarutofan says: Mar 26, 2013. 6:06 AM
1. I have 2 inches of bare wire touching my sphere. Is that enough? Do I need more or less? Or it doesn't matter?
2. I keep hearing that the proper distance from comb to belt/roller ranges anywhere from 1/4 of an inch, to 3/8 of an inch, or 1/8 of an inch and so on. Can you please clarify for me what is the proper distance?
newnarutofan says: Mar 25, 2013. 4:56 PM
1. does it matter where I put my top wire. or as long as it is touching somepart of the bowl it will be fine.
2. how important is the "no dust" on the parts?
3. If my project works will I get a big or small shock?
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 25, 2013. 9:03 PM
1. As long as it is touching inside the sphere it's fine.
2. If you're talking about the metal stuff from your last comment, pretty important. If you are talking about dust in general, it will hurt your performance but it won't be drastic.
3. You will get a decent shock but it will do absolutely nothing other than cause very mild pain.
newnarutofan says: Mar 25, 2013. 9:03 AM
1. I noticed on my practice runs that the cooper tape on my lower wheel rubs of on the excerisice band. Is this problematic?
2. I was thinking about attaching my top wire to the sphere with duct tape. Is this ok I heard that duct tape has some metallic properties. Also do I put the tape on the bare copper wire, or off it?
3. I heard the the bigger the sphere the longer the pipe has to be. Is that true?
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 25, 2013. 2:47 PM
1. This could be problematic. If the becomes conductive it will not work. If metal is rubbing off onto your belt you may consider a different type of metal tape (e.g. aluminium).
2. As long as there is bare copper in contact with the inside of your sphere it will be fine
3. Not necessarily. To an extent it is true. If you have a very large sphere you are going to want a larger pipe to support it and keep it away from ground, and as your output gets higher you will want the terminal further from ground, but for most cases so long as the pipe can support your sphere, and keep it a decent distance from ground it will be fine.
newnarutofan says: Mar 22, 2013. 4:15 PM
My output sphere is 2 salad bowls taped together it stands at about 11 1/2" tall and 9" width in the middle. Also it is an oval shape. Will this still work? And what can I do about the numbers on the bowl?
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 24, 2013. 9:17 AM
Yes, It will work.
Dream Dragon says: Mar 22, 2013. 6:41 AM
Thanks for writing such a well documented and well thought out project. I honestly didn't realise that the rollers needed to be made of different materials, thinking that the difference needed to be between the rollers and the belt, so not only have you LEARNED something by making this project, but by sharing it, you have TAUGHT something too.

Well done you.
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 22, 2013. 4:10 PM
Thanks!
freeza36 says: Mar 21, 2013. 2:35 PM
I recognize your AP human geo book
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 21, 2013. 3:22 PM
Yep. I had to do something to prevent myself from having to focus fully on that.
rimar2000 says: Mar 20, 2013. 9:46 AM
Very interesting, I want to do one of these some day. But, must the belt be made of latex? Why not a plastic belt?
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 20, 2013. 2:32 PM
You could use many different belt materials, plastic probably would work. I chose latex because that's what's used in a lot of the commercial VDG's.
rimar2000 says: Mar 21, 2013. 5:01 AM
OK, thanks for the answer.

Another question: ¿how many minutes it works before accumulate an interesting charge? I think would be a good idea replacing the motor by a handle, to eliminate the idea of electricity transfer.
newnarutofan says: Mar 21, 2013. 2:07 AM
Higgs Boson I am confused about somethings:
1. how big does the hole in the sphere have to be?
2. How did you make your discharge wand?
3. How did you get the coat hanger to bend the right way?
4. I was thinking about making a support for the sphere on the pipe. Any suggestions?
5. I was also thinking about putting nylon treaded nuts on the outside of my top roller. Will this effect the ability to discharge?
newnarutofan says: Mar 20, 2013. 10:53 AM
Higgs Boson I have a few more questions:
1. how much of the top roller has to be in the sphere
2. for the bottom bruch heres what I am thinking about doing:
I bring the wire from a hole I drilled in a PVC tee a bit a above the bottom roller. I then pull the wire downwards, then I bend the wire a bit upwards then make an "L" shape at the bottom of the roller where the tips of the of the brush are a bit below the bottom. Will this work?
3. For my top roller I was thinking about doing the same thing. Does it matter if I have a lot of PVC pipe in the sphere, also for my top wire going to the sphere does it matter how long the wire is?
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 20, 2013. 2:34 PM
1. To be effective, all of it should be
2. that would work fine
3. No and no.
Phil B says: Mar 20, 2013. 7:59 AM
I always enjoy seeing what someone did to make one of these. I have often thought I would like to make one, but it is not a practical idea for me. It would be nice if someone could find a way to make an effective and dependable belt from common materials.
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 20, 2013. 2:31 PM
It really would. I actually tried and failed with several materials (including a bike inner tube), before just buying a premade one from Edmund Scientifics.
newnarutofan says: Mar 20, 2013. 3:06 AM
Excuse me Higgs Boson I have a question. I am using wire brushes instead of the copper plate and stickpins.
1. do the brushes have to be pointing up towards the roller
2. also when I am doing my grounding would a srcew work?
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 20, 2013. 5:57 AM
The points of the brush just need to be pointing to the brush. I am not sure I understand what you are trying to do with the screw. Are you using it in the mains ground, or are you trying to make a grounding rod of sorts?
newnarutofan says: Mar 20, 2013. 7:17 AM
Sorry for that I was going to use a wire brush as the bottom comb.
1. I am powering the botton roller with an impact drill and socketfitting. the bottom brush wire I thought I could connect to a plug (just a wire to the ground part of a 3 prong plug), and I was hoping to attach the wire from the bottom roller and the wire form the plug to a screw (like a common point to ground I think its called).
2. And also how did you get your sphere from sideing down the pipe I am stumped.
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 20, 2013. 2:27 PM
1. That would work fine.
2. I bent part of a coat hanger (the wire kind) into a V shape and put in two holes I drilled at the top of the PVC. The sphere was able to sit on top of that.
rimar2000 says: Mar 20, 2013. 9:46 AM
Very interesting, I want to do one of these some day. But, must the belt be made of latex? Why not a plastic belt?
newnarutofan says: Mar 20, 2013. 3:27 AM
do the rollers andbrushes have to fit inside of the sphere? will it still work if it doesn't?
Higgs Boson (author) says: Mar 20, 2013. 5:58 AM
The top roller and rush should fit inside the sphere. It will still work if it doesn't, but there will be more significant losses.
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