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PURPOSE

When 3D printers started to dramatically drop in price and were thrust onto the commercial market, I was immediately hooked. This is every engineer's dream come true! The storm of cool printable products really hasn't developed as I expected however. Most people were, and still are, only printing little sculptures and vases. In terms of pushing this technology to its potential, we're not off to a great start! I came to the conclusion that it is not a lack of vision that is limiting the use of these desktop printers, but a lack of designs. People would print more awesome things if there were more awesome things to print. So I put two and two together and started designing this printable airsoft gun. It's the start of many designs I hope to produce for people who really want more than just a vase from their printers. I hope it will inspire you to get your creative mind in gear and contribute some awesome designs for a 3D printable future!

TOOLS

  • -3D printer (I used an UP PLUS)
  • -epoxy glue (and solvent if you have it)
  • -screwdriver
  • -drill (optional)
  • -pliers
  • -wire cutters
  • -hacksaw
MATERIALS
  • -820g of ABS (just under 1 reel)
  • -nuts and bolts $10
  • -1m of 15mm OD metal tube $10
  • -bike pump $4
  • -spring $8
  • -2nd hand airsoft barrel $15
  • -spray paint (optional)
  • -small scrap of 20mm PVC electrical tube
  • -dead pens
  • -7mmOD irrigation tube
  • -2x Old couch springs or other extension springs
GUN SPECIFICATIONS
  • -Shoots 6mm bb's (0.2g recommended)
  • -Single shot springer (spring powered)
  • -Chronoed at 250fps with 0.2g bb's
  • -Accurate to 20m, extreme range 40-50m
  • -Weighs a nice 1.2kg
  • -Mag capacity: 11 rounds
  • -Picatinny rails
  • -Adjustable hop up
  • -Working safety
  • -foldable bipod and sights (for scope if desired)
DISCLAIMER______________________________________________

I take no responsibility for your actions with this gun if you should decide to make it, or if you are not legally allowed to own such a gun according to the laws of your country and yet still decide to make it. This is an airsoft gun only, not a firearm, however it can do damage if aimed at the wrong place. Treat it responsibly and use the appropriate safety gear.

That being said I do encourage you to have fun! That's what this gun is for after all.

_________________________________________________________

Step 1: PRINTING

First things first, parts need to be printed and cleaned.

You will need just about a whole reel of ABS plastic (820grams). Haven't tried PLA, it is significantly weaker, but you can try if you want!

Most of the 46 parts will fit within the print volume of a desktop printer (120mm cubed), but there are a few larger parts that will need to be printed on a larger printer with 200mm width/depth and 200mm height. This is inconvenient I know, my next gun will be designed fully for a 120mm cubed print volume. You could split them and glue them back together with solvent, but be careful about printing too large on an open bed, you may get warping.

The parts are all designed to be printed in a certain orientation for minimal support material, strength in direction of the forces, and also to prevent layers grabbing between parts, i.e. layers are perpendicular for fast moving parts.

You will see on the parts files that one side is coloured red- this is the side to be on the printbed.

Most of the pictures explain the assembly well enough, but I will comment on the design details as we go. If you're confused at any point, have a look at the exploded view animation to see every nut and bolt put together.

Step 2: BOLT

As you will have seen, the piston is actually a bike pump, simple and very cheap, it also comes pre-greased, so no need to look for some silicone grease.

Here's the link to a similar pump I used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Portable-Bike-Bicycle...

The bike pump needs to be roughly 28mm in diameter to fit in the upper receiver. As you can see, there are two main types of bike pump- cups and o-rings. O-rings give you a better seal at high speed, so get one of them if you can.

The cylinder head should be glued (using epoxy) into the bike pump cylinder which you'll have cut to 68mm long, then the piston head and catch should be glued to the PVC tube which you'll have cut to 72mm long. A 30mm long section of 7mmOD irrigation tube can then inserted into the front of the cylinder head. Finally, bolt the handle into the side of the cylinder head, and voila! Your bolt is complete.

Step 3: TRIGGER BOX

You'll need to savagely rip open a few dead pens and harvest their springs for use in the trigger box and hop unit.

The trigger box can now be put together using those springs, parts you've printed, and a few small bolts (15mm long 3mm diameter thread, and 28mm long 4mm thread).

If you want to know how it works, have a look at the 'Inside the 3D Printed Airsoft Gun' video, towards the end it takes a look at the trigger box assembly and mechanism.

Step 4: MAG

Now to assemble the mag. You'll need to scavenge a mag spring from a broken bb gun mag. I realise this is not commonly found, so in my next design the mag will use a rubber band which is much more easily available. You'll also need a few bobby pins, one of which you'll need to cut down to fit the grove near the top of the right side of the mag housing.

The humble bobby pin is actually made from high tensile spring steel, and makes a great spring for a mag catch, or for any other mechanical parts with a relatively short range of motion.

The function of the mag catches are to hold the mag into the mag well, which can then be pushed in, releasing the mag, by the mag release buttons on either side of the lower receiver.

Another catch sits up the top of the mag housing beside the channel for the bb's. This bb catch holds the bb's in while the mag is being loaded. When it is pushed into the mag well, it is pushed back out of the way by the feed tube that protrudes down about 5mm, allowing the bb's to jump up into the hop unit. This accounts for the satisfying click you'll hear as the mag is pushed in.

Unfortunately the gap between the top of the mag and the chamber means about 4 bb's fall out when the mag is removed, so the mag capacity is actually 15, but 4 don't make it into the chamber unless you tip the gun upside down as you cock it. But this is a minor problem most airsofters will have come across before. In my next design however, I will fix this issue with a more realistic loading style where the bolt carries a round up into the chamber, hence covering the vertical gap.

Step 5: LOWER RECEIVER

As previously mentioned, the lower receiver has two mag release buttons on the sides which are simply pushed into two holes inside the receiver. You may need to do some sanding if you can't remove the all support material inside the holes. When both are pressed, the mag is released and can be pulled out.

The grip is fixed in a similar fashion to real guns, where a bolt is inserted through the base of the grip up into the lower receiver. The vertical slots in the grip prevent any unwanted forwards/backwards motion.

Perhaps surprisingly, the trigger box is not actually fixed into the lower receiver. This is because when the upper receiver is bolted on top, it holds the trigger box in place. In my next design I am leaning towards an assembly with minimal fixtures and no tools required.

Step 6: UPPER RECEIVER

The lower receiver is now all assembled, we can begin on the upper receiver where the real action takes place! (excuse the pun)

There are two fixtures between the upper receiver and the lower receiver, one is a hinge at the front, and the other is a bolt through the baseplate and the stock. The hinge allows the guns internals to be accessed easily, the same idea as the ICS split gear box design.

You'll need to choose a spring now, I used an M130 second hand airsoft spring which cost me about $10 from ebay. You may need to snip your spring down to size so it isn't too pre-compressed.

The trigger must be held down to insert the bolt, just like a real gun. After the bolt

Step 7: STOCK

Time to attach the stock.

One bolt goes through the lower hole on the stock base to fix it to the lower and upper receivers.

You'll need to cut two lengths of 15mmOD metal tube, steel, aluminium, or even copper, doesn't matter too much. They then need to be glued into the shoulder rest as seen above. If you're spray painting, do that first before you glue so you don't have to tape around awkward angles.

One awesome thing about 3D printing: fancy cut-in design patterns actually reduce time and cost to implement, unlike conventional manufacturing processes where this would add cost and time. Less material, less time. It just makes sense!

Step 8: HOP

Moving onto the hop unit now. If you're not an airsofter, hop-up is backspin on the bb that allows it to travel further, the bb literally 'hops up' instead of dropping early. This unit presses a small rubber sleeve down into the barrel so that when the bb passes it, it catches slightly, giving it backspin.

This hop unit uses a slightly angled slide pushing a ball bearing (in this case, a bb) down onto the rubber sleeve so that the amount of contact between the bb and the rubber can be finely adjusted.

The chamber spring prevents bb's from falling back into the upper receiver when the bolt is pulled back and the nozzle comes out of the chamber, something I call 'backwash'. It was a really annoying design challenge as I wasn't willing to fix the cylinder in place and have to pull back the piston itself to cock the gun. But again the trusty bobby pin saves the day!

Step 9: FRONT UPPER RECEIVER

Now to assembly the front half of the receiver. You'll see a large threaded rod up top, this provides strength down the entire length of the gun, and bears the brunt of the force from the piston hitting the cylinder head, so that the plastic doesn't have to, making the gun very durable. But of course, if a part does break, just print another one! Gotta love 3D printing...

The pictures explain how to assemble the gun, but remember to cut another section of metal pipe however long you wish your barrel to be- maybe sniper, maybe assualt, whatever look takes your fancy.

You may be curious at this point as to the style of the gun. It is actually styled after a SCAR-H, obviously not the same, but it imitates the look and feel of the gun. Why the SCAR-H you ask? Just because I like the look!

Step 10: FINISHING TOUCHES

Finally we can add the icing on the cake, our rear sight and bipod. These are simple enough to put together once you've printed off the parts, so I'll leave you to it.

The rails are the same dimensions as a picatinny rail, weaver will also fit. I haven't tried a scope on it yet as I don't own one, but if anyone finds it doesn't fit, let me know and I can change the files.

Step 11: HAVE FUN.

There you have it, your own 3D printable airsoft gun. If this project is a little too big for you, stay posted for my next gun which will require less materials and tools, have more cool features and can be printed on a 120mm cubed desktop printer.

Hope you enjoyed the Instructable, whether just for inspiration, for actually making the gun, or just for a good read. If you were wondering how I got my printing done, it was through Palmer Design and Manufacturing.

A huge thanks to Andrew Palmer there for all his help with the printing. PDM does professional end-use parts manufacture or prototyping, there's some awesome stuff on the website, check it out right here: http://palmerdesign.co.nz/3d-printing-service/

I welcome constructive feedback and any design advice or ideas from you guys! If you've got some solidworks skills feel free to make some changes or additions to the files to keep improving them. Designs won't be sold for licensing reasons, so they're all yours!

Thanks for reading

Step 12: Accessories

Thanks to Roy-Tore Hofstad (rhofstad), the gun now comes with a foregrip and a flashlight holder! These accessories really make the gun intimidating. He also made a larger front sight to accommodate a thicker barrel.

Thanks again to Roy for modelling those up, and make sure you print them if you are making the gun! 
<p>Can you PLZZZZ make a new design, maybe a pistol, I love this design but your the only GOOD design out there, you could maybe make a co2 canister one seeing as they have less moving part</p>
<p></p><p>Will this pump work?</p><p>Https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1-Set-Mini-Portable-Compact-Bicycle-Bike-Cycling-Pump-Hand-Air-Tyre-Inflator-Skidproof-Bikes-Repair/32775533904.html?spm= 2114.02010208.3.2.SU9Wxq &amp; ws_ab_test = searchweb0_0, searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_433_434_10136_10137_10138_10060_10062_10141_10056_10140_10055_10054_10059_124_10099_10103_10102_10096_10052_10053_10050_10107_10142_10051_10106_10084_10083_10119_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10078_10079_10073_10070_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124, searchweb201603_7, afswitch_1_afChannel, ppcSwitch_5, single_sort_0_price_asc &amp; btsid = e6bb6bd5-78c5-40db-85b2-dc6b892d47e9 &amp; algo_expid = ce115647-f210-44be-b04f-6bc79c3a7798-0 &amp; algo_pvid = ce115647-f210-44be-b04f-6bc79c3a7798<a href="https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1-Set-Mini-Portable-Compact-Bicycle-Bike-Cycling-Pump-Hand-Air-Tyre-Inflator-Skidproof-Bikes-Repair/32775533904.html?spm=2114.02010208.3.2.SU9Wxq&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_433_434_10136_10137_10138_10060_10062_10141_10056_10140_10055_10054_10059_124_10099_10103_10102_10096_10052_10053_10050_10107_10142_10051_10106_10084_10083_10119_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10078_10079_10073_10070_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124,searchweb201603_7,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_0_price_asc&btsid=e6bb6bd5-78c5-40db-85b2-dc6b892d47e9&algo_expid=ce115647-f210-44be-b04f-6bc79c3a7798-0&algo_pvid=ce115647-f210-44be-b04f-6bc79c3a7798" rel="nofollow">Https: //pt.aliexpress.com/item/1-Set-Mini-Portable ...</a></p>
If it's 28mm in diameter it should work fine
<p>do we need to use a airsoft barrel? Can we use a break line instead</p>
<p>Cont&eacute;m umaPlease, I die in Brazil. I do not know if it's the translation, or if it really does not exist, could you send me a photo of that barrel of airsfot? Maybe with the image I know what it is</p>
<p>I've heard brake lines are pretty good. Most airsoft barrels are around 6.05mm ID, but I would still recommend an airsoft barrel, because a 0.1mm difference in ID makes a huge difference to range and fps.</p>
Gun barrels are normally rifled. But i would like to hear back if you print this and try using a brakeline. I just dont know how accurate it would be
<p>It took me over a year, but I finally made it! Thanks for the design!!</p>
<p>Goodnight friend!<br>How was your experience with the weapon? Does she have good accuracy with the aim? Really strong? Does it compare to a carbine? Did you do exactly with the files in this tutorial?</p><div><p>Sorry for so many questions, but here in Brazil it's very difficult to have this information</p><p>Grateful</p></div>
<p>Dude that's beautiful! Thanks for sharing, always good to know the design is being enjoyed. How well does it shoot? </p>
<p>It doesn't shoot yet, but i have ordered a bag of bb's to test it.</p>
<p>Did you try it finally?</p><p>I'm looking into trying this print myself and I'm not yet sure if it is worth the time and effort..</p>
<p>how fast does this shoot also how far would this shoot?</p>
<p>Does these mags/real airsoft mags work?</p><p><a href="http://rodastjarnan.com/airsoft/airsoft/101inc-m4/m16-magasin-low-cap-60-rds-32774" rel="nofollow">http://rodastjarnan.com/airsoft/airsoft/101inc-m4/...</a></p><p><a href="http://rodastjarnan.com/airsoft/airsoft/101inc-m4/m16-flash-high-cap-450-kulor-27622" rel="nofollow">http://rodastjarnan.com/airsoft/airsoft/101inc-m4/...</a></p>
No they won't, only the one designed for this gun
<p>How do you create one?</p><p>and can we make one fully 3d printed?</p>
<p>could you adjust the design and spring to be a sniper</p>
<p>You can if you want to</p>
<p>Hey mate, Really nice design. What did you make it in and can i redesign for my uses? thanks. :)</p>
Thanks man, yeah go for it! Designed on Solidworks (2013/14)
<p>we can print the piston ?</p>
Could you adjust it to be electric
Unfortunately not, it would probably be easier to design from scratch than to modify this gun to fit a gearbox
<p>would you ever make a bolt action sniper or m4a1 because you can download lowers and uppers and just mod to your will</p>
<p>Hi Engineer777,</p><p>Just a couple of questions about specifications of several items:</p><p>-What material and length is the 6mm barrel made of?</p><p>-What are the dimensions of the spring used both in the barrel and in the magazine? And if you can send a link to a ebay listing?</p><p>-What is the dimensions of the outer barrel for the inside of the gun? Is it the same as the tube used in the stock?</p>
<p>Where did you get a nozzle?</p>
It's a piece of hard plastic irrigation tube, you can use anything that fits though.
<p>Do you have a picture of the bike pump ? The link is not good the item is no linger for sale.</p><p>THANKS</p>
<p>Sure, any of the recommended items just below the main image that look like the picture below should be fine</p>
Is it legal in Australia
Unfortunately not, but that hasn't stopped some people!
Is it possible to mod this and put an aeg gearbox in it?
Hey man. Would be easier to just design from scratch, but you could try and cad up another receiver and grip!
<p>Nice design! It's awesome to see stuff like this made with 3D printers. One suggestion I would have is to add a hinge to the mounting plate of the stock and some kind of latch on the receiver for a folding stock. Also, it would be awesome to see some kind of body conversion to turn this into a bolt action sniper rifle. I might try to model this one day but it obviously seems that you're better at this than I am! :)</p>
Thanks man!<br>Yeah it's a cool idea, the SCAR (from which this is inspired) has a folding stock as well. I designed it fixed as it was simpler and much more rigid, but totally possible to add a hinge and spring latch without sacrificing too much strength!<br>With the sniper rifle, it would probably be best redesigned or even designed to fit in a second hand .22 stock- could be a fun project for someone!
<p>Hi!</p><p>Can i still print this if my printer has this printing area 180mm*300mm ?</p>
What is you z-dimension? They should all fit if your height is just over 200mm. You would have to print the receiver in PLA though as ABS will warp (unless you have an enclosed heated chamber). You can always check out my submachine gun, designed for smaller printers.
<p>can you print all the parts? like the bolts, barrel. etc. </p>
There are some parts you have to either buy or find from around the house. Check out the 'MATERIALS' section on the first page
Where can i buy mag spring ?
Hallo, i have your gun. But i want to automatize it ... because one shoot is not good and im only charging it. Can you create something to automatization ?
<p>Hey </p><p>Great design... I have been on and off for years on designing my own BB rifle, and have come close to it with the tools I had. Now I too am studying Mechanical Engineering &quot;Only in my second year&quot; and have recently purchased a 3D Printer, and now in the design phase of my one. </p><p>I have a couple of questions about your design if you don't mind. </p><p>1. With the BB in the hop up housing, what is keeping it in place? Is it the pressure from the magazine from one end, and the other from the hop up adjuster? </p><p>2. Where the BB enters the hop up unit, is it air tight or does that not matter? </p><p>3. How does it chamber a new round &quot;BB&quot;? Is it when the BB leaves the rifle tube, another is simultaneously pressed up or is it activated by pulling on the rod?</p><p>Thank you for your time :) </p>
Hey man,<br><br>Thanks, it's a lot of fun ay. Where abouts are you studying?<br><br>Always happy to answer questions!<br><br>I feel like your questions are best answered all together: <br><br>There is a nozzle protruding from the front of the cylinder head (the 'bolt') that slides over the feed-hole where the bb's enter the hop up unit (or the 'chamber'). When the bolt is pushed forwards, the nozzle passes over the top of the feed hole, catching one bb that has been pushed up into the hop up unit from the mag. The bb is pushed forwards until it sits just behind the rubber hop up bucking. <br><br>At this point, the bb is sealed in the hop up unit (like a 'chambered round') between the end of the nozzle and the rubber bucking. The gun will then be ready to fire. It is critical to get a good seal between the nozzle and the surrounding hop up unit, because any air that leaks out backwards during firing will reduce the pressure behind the bb and you'll lose power.<br><br>The other situation you have to be aware of is when the bolt is pulled back or 'open'. At this point, the nozzle which is on the end of the bolt, is not blocking the feed hole into the hop up unit. A bb is free to pop into the 'chamber', pushed upwards from the mag. It can't roll down the barrel because of the bucking, however it has to be stopped from rolling out the back of the hop up unit. To do this, I used a bent bobby pin as a hook behind the bb to hold it in. The hook is pushed out of the way by the nozzle when the bolt is pushed forward again.<br><br>Have a good look at the assembly video and CAD renders, should help you understand how it works.<br><br>Hope that helps!<br><br>Cheers,<br>Sam
<p>Hey </p><p>Great design... I have been on and off for years on designing my own BB rifle, and have come close to it with the tools I had. Now I too am studying Mechanical Engineering &quot;Only in my second year&quot; and have recently purchased a 3D Printer, and now in the design phase of my one. </p><p>I have a couple of questions about your design if you don't mind. </p><p>1. With the BB in the hop up housing, what is keeping it in place? Is it the pressure from the magazine from one end, and the other from the hop up adjuster? </p><p>2. Where the BB enters the hop up unit, is it air tight or does that not matter? </p><p>3. How does it chamber a new round &quot;BB&quot;? Is it when the BB leaves the rifle tube, another is simultaneously pressed up or is it activated by pulling on the rod?</p><p>Thank you for your time :) </p>
Can you give me link, where buy bike pump please ?
<p>6.04 mm barrel -- How long must be this barrel?</p>
Are good this: http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-MINI-High-Pressure-Portable-Bicycle-Hand-Air-Pump-Inflator-Tyre-Tire-Ball-/201408107390?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202348%2526meid%253Dce12719f154841ed9e50af133538310e%2526pid%253D100408%2526rk%253D1%2526rkt%253D5%2526sd%253D111191753652&amp;_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460 ?
<p>In the step 2 can i use only the pump which you buy ? Or can i buy normal bike pump ?</p>
<p>Hey man, as long as the outer diameter is 28mm then you'll be fine. There will be other suppliers of the same bike pump, but you might need to do a quick ebay search for cheap bike pumps and look for something similar</p>
Can you find me please ? Because I'm not good in english, thanks.

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Bio: I am a Mechanical Engineering student studying at the University of Auckland in NZ. I am severely addicted to 3D printing, infected with a passion ... More »
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