Introduction: 3D Printed Articulating LED Lamp

Picture of 3D Printed Articulating LED Lamp

Featured design on!

Runner up winner of Instructables Plastics Contest!

*** Update (26/09/2017): New thing files added:

Arms with three different sizes: 100, 140 and 200 mm. New arm type: mixed arm design (hole at one end and a stud at the other). With this you can extend the reach of the lamp one arm at a time (rather than needing a pair of arms). This may replace the other two types of arms (male and female).

Having good lighting at your desk or at a reading location is essential for your visual comfort and the health of your eyes. Although, it is not always possible to find a lamp of your liking, or that does not occupy much space on your desk, limiting your work area. In this Instructable I show how to make a 3D printed articulating lamp, which can be configured according to your needs.

Possibly the final product will be more expensive than ordinary lamps that you will find in stores. But none will be configurable like this, nor will will let you be proud to say that you did it by yourself! If you have a 3D printer or have access to one in your hacker/maker space, this is an interesting and useful project to equip your workshop and practice your 3D printing and modeling skills.

In the following steps I'll show how I adapted Kenneth awesome Articulating, Wall-Mounted, Magnetic Phone Mount design into an articulating wall mounted LED lamp.

Be careful when working with electricity. Make sure there is no short circuit and just try to connect to the electrical power plug after making sure that all components are properly connected and double insulated. If you don't have enough experience working with electricity, as for others help.

Don't touch any exposed wire or any metal part of the LED lamp after it's energized! Some LED spots have a metal heat sink. Avoid touching that part when the lamp is on!

Once there are exposed wires, it's not recommend to use it places accessible to children or animals. Under no circunstances use it close to wet surfaces!

It's and experimental design, so you might use it with caution.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Picture of Tools and Materials

The following tools and materials were used in this project:

  • 3D printer. In my case I used a Voolt3D, a Grabber i3 based 3D printer;
  • 1.75mm PLA of different colors. I combined white and orange PLA in my design;
  • Screwdriver. You'll need it for mounting your lamp on the wall and to assemble the electrical plug and switch;
  • Screws (for mouting your lamp on the wall);

I used a 5W LED spotlight with a GU10 socket, similart to the ones bellow:

Don't forget to check its voltage.

You'll probably need some wires, a power plug and a on/off switch. You can find it in electrical hardware stores.

Please be carefull when working with electricity. It might be dangerous. Some of those connectors and LED bulbs might have exposed metal parts! Don't touch it's energized and keep it out of reach from children or pets. Make sure that everything is perfectly isolated beforing turning it on. If you have no experience working with electricity, ask for help of any one with experience, or use lower voltages (e.g. 5V LEDs).

Collect everything and get ready for some action!

Did you know you can buy a Anet A8 for only $129.99? Use the coupon code A8KIDA at Gearbest and get it!

Step 2: 3D Model

Picture of 3D Model

The 3d model was designed using Fusion 360, based on Kenneth's Articulating, Wall-Mounted, Magnetic Phone Mount desing. For this lamp I redesigned most of the parts using Fusion 360 and made some adaptations and simplifications to reduce the number of different components need to assemble the whole structure.

The model is composed of 8 different parts (some of them printed more then once as described bellow):

  • Lamp holder - this is the part where the LED spotlight and it's connector are attached to the structure of the lamp;
  • Arm (male) - one of the arms used on the structure. It has built in screws used to attach it to the female type arm;
  • Arm (female) - another type of arm. It has whole in it's ends, which are used for the connection to another arm an to the base joint;
  • Arm (mixed) - it has a hole at one end and a stud at the other. With this you can extend the reach of the lamp one arm at a time (rather than needing a pair of arms). This may replace the other two types of arms (male and female);
  • Wall joint - it connects the arm to the wall mount using a 3d printed screw;
  • Bolt - connects to the wall joint ot the wall mount
  • Wall mount- used to attach the structure the wall.
  • Knobs (x4) - used for the fixation of each link.

You can download all the stl files from de following websites:

Step 3: 3D Printing

Picture of 3D Printing

You'll have to print all the parts discribed on the previous step, in your favourite color. Notice that most of the parts are printed only once. Only the nut.stl will have to be printed four times.

I printed all the parts in PLA, with 0,2mm resolution and 20% infill.

Most of the parts won't need support if you print then in the right orientation (the on of the stl files). I only had to use supports for the lamp holder.stl.

You'll notice that my wall mount support is a little different than the one from the stl file. The part I printed has a small adaptation to allow it to fit into an existing wood panel in my office, so that I didn't have to use screws... Since not everyone's office has the same setup, I prefered to upload the stl part made for screw attachment.

Step 4: Mounting the Lamp

Picture of Mounting the Lamp

Once it's printed, mounting the structures is easy!

  1. Start from the wall mount part. The bolt passes through the wall mount and the wall joint parts and is locked with a knob on its end
  2. Attach the female arm (or a mixed arm) to the wall joint using a knob;
  3. Connect the male arm (or another mixed arm) to the female on with another knob;
  4. Attach the lamp holder to the other end of the male arm with another knob;
  5. Finally pass a LED spotlight through the lamp holder and put its connector.

Your structure will be ready to be attached to the wall.

Be careful when working with electricity. Make sure there is no short circuit and just try to connect to the electrical power plug after making sure that all components are properly connected and double insulated. If you don't have enough experience working with electricity, as for others help!
Don't touch any exposed wire or any metal part of the LED lamp after it's energized! Some LED spots have a metal heat sink, and some GU10 connectors have exposed metal. Avoid touching that part when the lamp is on! If necessary, cover it with isolating materials!

Step 5: Done!

Picture of Done!

It's done! Turn it on an let it shine!

You can adjust the angle between each component to make the spotlight aim the place you want to light up. You can even add extra arms and make it longer.


DavisP2 (author)2017-11-16

I would love to make this, but would prefer to avoid the electronics of it. Is there a bulb on Amazon with the plug and switch that might work instead?

Yonatan24 (author)DavisP22017-11-28

Maybe some type of lamp kit? Though that could be illegal in some countries...

IgorF2 (author)DavisP22017-11-21

Hi there. Unfortunately I coudn't find it on Amazon... :/

LaurentD18 made it! (author)2017-10-16

OK, I made it, and this time I uploaded a much better picture. This is a great design, prints very well on a Makerbot Replicator 2X with ABS, 20% infill, raft and support. Highly recommended.

IgorF2 (author)LaurentD182017-10-16

Great! Nice print!

I'm glad you like it! :D

IgorF2 (author)2017-10-15

Great! I'm glad you like it! :D

JerryE32 (author)2017-10-02

Do you have links to the lighting hardware needed?
A description of the lamp and socket so I can find it online?

IgorF2 (author)JerryE322017-10-02

Hi there. There are two links in Step 1 (one for the LED lamp and other the connector). Those are similar to the ones I used. I can find them in electrical hardware stores.

Please take care when working with electicity and make it safetly.

JerryE32 (author)IgorF22017-10-03

I live in the U.S. so the 240 volt one won't work so I ordered this one from Amazon for GU10 bulb...
I hope it fits as I've already printed the lamp.

Thanks for the reply.
Jerry in NW Florida

IgorF2 (author)JerryE322017-10-04

I think it's the same size. Anyway, please let me know if the size is different. We may redesign the lamp holder part if necessary. :)

JerryE32 (author)IgorF22017-10-04

Okay I got the U.S.120 volt, GU10 Bulb and G10 Socket today and only the bulb will go through the hole but is floppy and probably not a good idea to do it that way because of the heat.
Here are the actual measurements:

120 volt-GU10 Bulb = 22 mm
120 volt-G10 Socket = 27 mm

So if the lamp holder was made to fit the socket at 27 mm it would be perfect for folks using 120 volt systems. Let me know if you redo the lamp holder so I can download and print the file.


Jerry in NW Florida

IgorF2 made it! (author)JerryE322017-10-04

Hi there,

My lamp is 220V and it has the same dimensions (around 23 mm for the bulb and 28 mm for the socket external diameter).

Actually my idea was to pass the lamp connector thru the lamp holder, and put the connector on the other side. This way the lamp itself is a little bit loose, but the connector locks it in the position (as in the pictures bellow). I tested with two different lamp manufacturers, and it worked. Can you post a picture of your lamp after the lamp installation?

In my case, the plastic part of the lamp touches the PLA lamp holder. This way the heat sink doesn't touch the PLA, and it won't get hot and possibly melt. But I think it might deppend on the size and position of the heat sink.

I think that if the lamp holder was designed tho have a 27 mm hole, it would be difficult to attach the connector inside it. Deppending on the quality of the print, the connector would be too tight or too loose, an it would be harder to assemble the lamp.

But if you wish, I could design a lamp holder with 27mm (or 28mm) internal diameter, and you can test if it works for you.

JerryE32 (author)IgorF22017-10-05


27.5 mm would be perfect but if you have to use whole numbers 28 mm is okay and it can be glued in.

JerryE32 (author)IgorF22017-10-04

Okay, I left it on in the holder for almost two hours and the outside of the lamp holder is not even warm so it may be okay although it's quite a loose fitting. It's up to you if you want to make a tighter fit for this socket/bulb combo.

JerryE32 (author)IgorF22017-10-04

It's entirely too floppy as the neck of the bulb is a lot smaller than the opening. I used a micrometer for the measurements and in any case the hottest point is right there on the neck of the bulb. My digital thermometer measured the heat at 128 F (53.33 C) after 10 minutes which would probably, after a while, soften or weaken the PLA. I don't think these bulbs have a heat sink nor does the socket. The socket was cooler at about 100 F (37.77 C). I think a lamp holder at 27.5 mm (micrometer shows it as 27.54 mm) would be ideal and it could be sanded out a bit if necessary (and/or glued with crazy-glue).

tjaxilla (author)2017-09-07

Did you consider making the arms with a hole at one end and a stud at the other so that it reduces the number of different components? It would mean that you could extend the reach one arm at a time rather than needing a pair of arms.

IgorF2 (author)tjaxilla2017-09-29

I updated the project and add your suggestion. Thanks!

IgorF2 (author)tjaxilla2017-09-07

Thanks. It's a good idea. It would also reduce the number of different parts needed to print the lamp.
I'll implement that for the next version.

CheritaD (author)2017-08-31


IgorF2 (author)CheritaD2017-09-01

Thanks! :)

Mr_MdR (author)2017-09-01

What is the little robot thing on your desk? :3

IgorF2 (author)Mr_MdR2017-09-01

It's a robot that I am currently developing. :D
Take a look:

I've posted some tutorials about the technologies used in this robot:

drsoils (author)2017-08-31

Good idea, im working on a re-use of a desk lamp with a similar conversion to a GU10 LED bulb. One thing, please solder the mains wires and use heat shrink tubing on each conductor them a larger heat shrink on the entire splice, safety first.

IgorF2 (author)drsoils2017-08-31

Thanks for your advice! Although I didn't explain in the tutorial, I used a shrinking tube around the wires an isolating tape around the pair of conductors.

I'll detail that on the tutorial.

Yonatan24 (author)2017-08-30

Wow! Great job!

I'm wondering about two things. Is the number of TPI of the screws low enough so you can be able to tighten them slowly enough, to not over or under-tighten the lamp? And how about connecting a spring between the wall-mount/base and the articulating arm that it connects to? That way you wouldn't need to tighten the screw that much and it would be easier to use the lamp.

IgorF2 (author)Yonatan242017-08-30

Hi Yonatan!
Actually you won't need to tighten the screws that much. There is a lock pattern on the faces that make contact. This will hold the joints at a given angle. The knob will only need to gently press those two surfaces.
Regarding the spring, it would be a great improvement on future remixes.

vishnumaiea (author)2017-08-29

It looks like a Kuka robot! Nice one ;)

IgorF2 (author)vishnumaiea2017-08-29

Thanks! :D

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