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This is a continuation of my 3D Printed Bearing Instructable. I needed a way to slowly rotate the bearing, here's how I did it.

Step 1: 3D Print the Parts

I printed these part on an Objet 500 Connex printer. I printed them in Veroclear so I could see through all the parts.

Step 2: Order the Hardware and the Motor

I use McMaster Carr for most of my small parts. Especially if your quantities are small and you need a quick delivery time.


96415K71 316 Stainless Steel Precision Ball, 1/8" Diameter

94150A305 Metric Type 316 Stainless Steel Hex Nut, M2 Size, .4mm Pitch, 4mm Width, 1.6mm Height

90116A007 Metric 316 Stainless Steel Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, M2 Size, 3mm Length, .4mm Pitch

90116A020 Metric 316 Stainless Steel Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, M2 Size, 10mm Length, .4mm Pitch

92000A001 Metric 316 Stainless Steel Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, M1.6 Size, 3mm Length, .35mm Pitch

The motor is from Pololu.

1095 250:1 Micro Metal Gearmotor

Step 3: Slide Nuts Into Nut Pockets

If you cleaned the parts properly the nuts should slide into the nut pockets. If there's still support material in the nut pockets you'll have to remove it.

Step 4: Fill the Race With Bearings

Place the outer race over the bevel gear and roll in the bearings.

Step 5: Fasten the Inner Race

Using the M2 X 3MM fasteners secure the inner race to the bevel gear.

Step 6: Attach the Motor to the Motor Adapter

Use the M1.6 X 3MM screws to secure the adapter bracket to the motor.

Step 7: Press the Drive Gear Onto the Motor Shaft

Press the drive gear onto the motor shaft. The gear should flush with the end of the shaft.

Step 8: Place the Motor Adaptor Nuts

Pick any two adjacent nut pockets and fill them with the M2 nuts.

Step 9: Secure the Motor Adapter

Use the M2 X 10MM fasteners to secure the motor adapter to the outer race of the bearing.

Step 10: Motor Controller

I tried a few different motor controllers for this project. I ended up using the Fingertech tinyESC as it was the smallest motor controller that I could find.

<p>Amazing!</p><p>Who would believe that people can repair things nowadays out of plastic?! 3D printers will bring a new technology in the next 5-10 years for any person in the world, and you my freind just begun this revolution. This part was made so well and right, even if you would cast it into a mold like the OEM part you wouldn't shame any firm that casting parts. Good job I want to see more this in the future.</p>
Great pics, great info. A suggestion: add some oblique pictures when the form is complex, and use an offset flash (for shadowing, it looks like you're using a ring flash). It took me a bit to realize the layers/depths, shapes, and how they came together.<br>Great work, it's inspiring!
<p>Thank you very very much. I have been looking for this for quite some time. This will help me make a pan &amp; tilt camera head. No more shaking videos trying to keep my camera steady. Greetings from Amsterdam. Rien</p>
Rien, keep me posted, I'd love to see what you make. Greetings from San Francisco, Paolo
<p>Sorry I was late in asking this, but every stl file generates a &quot;vector3 not found&quot; when I try to generate a gcode file using Skienforge. Slic3r generates only about 4 layers of gcode and stops. I've tried to figure out a fix for this, but have been unable. Any idea what the problem using Skienforge might be?</p>
Hmm, they appear to work for me. I'm not familiar with Skienforge, can you open other stl files? Are you only having problems with my files?
<p>Just these files. Are you using something other than Slic3r to convert to gcode?</p>
<p>What printer are you printing on? Unless you scale the parts up the features are too small for a Makerbot. I printed the parts on an Objet 500.</p>
<p>I'm doing it on a solidoodle, so I knew that the parts needed to be changed around. </p>
<p>I'm able to open the stl files in Meshmixer and with the Makerbot software. I'm not familiar with Slic3r so I'm unable to advise you.</p>
<p>Well I'm not sure what the Makerbot software is. I installed Meshmixer and it opens the .stl file just fine (as does Slic3r.) I can't see any way to export that file as gcode though. I'm not having a problem reading it, just in converting into gcode, so that my printer can use it.</p>
<p>That's what the slicer does. Meshmixer has a built in slicer, as does Makerbot, You'll have to find a slicer that works with your machine.</p>
<p>I'm not sure but I think the bevel gear .stl file might be missing?</p>
Good catch. You'll find it there now.
<p>I would love to see a short video of this spinning. Great work!</p>
<p>yeah, amazing what you can do with a $100K 3D printer. I'd love for someone to try this on a Makerbot...</p>
Of course that's the obvious comment. But FDM printers, such as the Makerbot, used to cost 10s if not 100s of thousands dollars. As machine price drops and resolution increases we'll look back at the Makerbot years fondly. When that future arrives wouldn't it be nice to have a collection of 'solutions' or 'building blocks' from which you can construct new ideas?
<p>It is not so obvious, there are people new to 3D printing who will see this amazing piece and think that they can print it on their new &quot;El Cheapo&quot; 3D printer. I just want people to know from the beginning that this is not your run-of-the mill printer you are using...</p>
<p>Something this small would be very cheap in an online store like shapeways. The beauty of this design is that it's expandable- you could order a few of these online and make your other parts with hand tools or whatever you have available.</p>
<p>While $100,000 is most likely out of reach for most of the people here (and those who can afford it, drop me a line lol) but as already mentioned - outsource your parts. </p><p>There's a lot to be said for being hands on and making everything yourself but you know what...results mean far more than you can ever imagine. If you need precision and custom parts, then your local (and online) printers are your new best friends. </p>
<p>beautiful </p>
<p>Great work. I am new to 3D print so I have 2 questions for ya:</p><p>-Say you wanna make an object fast bigger than your printer size, can you print it in smaller pieces and glue/screw them together to form the big thing ?</p><p>- what s the easiest language/software for 3D printing for less smart people ?</p>
@goldenshuttle, Yes, you can break up a large design and fasten or glue together the parts. Of course a lot depends on how big, how heavy, how fast, and who's riding it. :-)<br><br>The easiest way to learn is to find a friend that is already deep into it and use their work flow, asking as many questions as you can. After you have that under your belt, and you are still smitten, take any path that interests you. The key is to have someone handy when you hit a road block. There's nothing more frustrating that getting stuck on something small and stupid.
Can this be smaller version of usb power bank powered portable blade less fan
Very nice project, well organized! I used McMaster Carr all the time. They're not the cheapest, but they have free downloadable models for just about everything they sell. Does the project have a specific purpose? It looks like the gear motor may spin at a very low rpm, bevel gear would spin even slower. Thanks for posting this.
Thank you for the kind words. This and my previous instructables are all part of a larger project I'm working on. I'm testing different ways to actuate mechanisms. You're correct this assembly is low load and low RPM.
With what kind of 3d printer were these parts made on? Well done!
<p>Thank you.</p>
I apologize after further reading i see it was already mentioned in the text

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