Immediately I became challenged to build my own! Once finals were over, a friend and I knocked it out in a few days. In the end my Enclosure only costed me 92$
THIS IS NOT FINISHED, UPDATES ARE COMING!
- 50$- acrylic plexiglas
- 10$- 100 RGB 4 prong leds
- 20$- PIR sensor
- 5$ hook up wire
- 8$ - 4x carbon filter(you only need1)
- computer fan
- 1/2" flush trim bit
- 1/2 double fluted bit
Step 1: Cut Wood to Size
- The baseplate is made out of 3/4" cherry ply was cut to 12.5" x 14.5", and has slots cut 1/4" in from the edge to accommodate the 5/16" thick acrylic (requires 2 cuts which is also 5/16" deep". Make passes on a table saw if you don't have a router.
- the second slot is for the plywood which was just under 13/16" and took many passes (should have used my router)
- Cut back panel at 12.5"x 15.5" and make slots the same as step 1.
Step 2: Cut Front Frame
- Cut 2 5/16" slots in the 1x2" hard wood (make sure that it is at least 35"+). This will yield both verticals however you will need a second slightly different piece for the top panel.
- Cut a 5/16" section out of the end (see image)
- once the verticals are cut 45 the pieces at
Step 3: Route Channels for LED's and Arduino
- Use a 1/2 fluted carbide bit and the fence to make channels for wire and easy soldering. Also trace the Arduino remove enough wood so it is out of the way.
- trace the fan and cut out a section slightly larger than the traced lines.
Step 4: Build Frame for Fan
- The frame is made with some scrap 5/16" plywood
- measure the fan and cut pieces to size(leave room for a fan grill between it and the carbon filter)
- Drill hole for wire
- clamp and glue around fan
- cut filter to size
- make grill
Step 5: Glue and Tack Frame With Brads
- Use a framing vice or alligator clips to hold joint.
- drill holes and drive brads in for strength
- chisel out corner section, or cut with japanese blade. (see image)
Step 6: Cut the Plexi!
Remember plexiglass is very toxic to breath so always work in a well ventilated place. Also if you have some left over carbon filter like I did you can upgrade your basic dusk mask to a carbon filtered one! It makes cutting the acrylic less stinky, and might even be safe… don't hold me to to this I am no responsible for your illness/death.
Step 7: Routing Out Front Panel and Hole for Door
- Draw desired locations and mark square.
- Drill a hole for access
- Use jig to cut four sides, scrap the middle
- it usually takes at least two passes to achieve a clean edge
Step 8: Cut Out Door
- use an extra piece and rip to size on the table saw or use the trim router on a desk corner to make perfect.
- sand edges round, and test fit constantly
- once you are happy tape in place
Step 9: Mount the Door With Hinges
Step 10: Drill Holes for LEDs
Step 11: Connect the Single LEDs Together
Even though it is cheaper and more customizable I Highly Recommend that you purchase a rgb LEDs in a strip instead of soldering each and every one. But hey if you enjoy soldering and need a therapeutic escape for 5 hours then have at it
Step 12: The Circuit
PIR sensor is plug into brown, live, and pin 7
This code is for the PIR sensor and will control the brightness of the lights as the build platform gets lower and lower:
In the next week we will upload the full code and circuit including the LED sequences.
int pingPin7 = 7;
const int redPin = 8;
const int greenPin = 9;
const int bluePin = 10;
int light;//define the spead of motor
// initialize serial:
// make the pins outputs:
// establish variables for duration of the ping,
// and the distance result in inches and centimeters:
long d2= light;
// The PING))) is triggered by a HIGH pulse of 2 or more microseconds.
// Give a short LOW pulse beforehand to ensure a clean HIGH pulse:
// The same pin is used to read the signal from the PING))): a HIGH
// pulse whose duration is the time (in microseconds) from the sending
// of the ping to the reception of its echo off of an object.
d2 = pulseIn(pingPin6, HIGH)/ 29 / .25;
int light = d2;//define the spead of motor
if (light >255)
light =255 ;
// look for the next valid integer in the incoming serial stream:
red = (light);
green = ( light);
blue = (light);
// fade the red, green, and blue legs of the LED:
Step 13: Updates
some things to look forward to:
- better documentation
- a video showing printer working with the setup
- Beautiful pictures
- Finish circuit and programing
- adding switches
- PIN sensor intagration
- rgb light display
- adding trim molding
- sealing the joints with silicone
- spool holder
- proper feet for enclosure