Introduction: 3D Printer: Stinger X210 Racer Drone Build

Stinger X210 is an OPENSOURCE Racer frame that’s so cute. Main body part is 3D printed canopy! If made of ABS or PETG it’s really strong (you can probably stand on it) and you can get a nice finish (more about finish in my tutorial below). It holds FPV camera nicely in place with easy adjustable tilt angle. In the back you have vtx connector mounting hole and good intake/exhaust holes for ventilation. On the sides there are holes for cables and main battery strap.

It has 4 identical arms that can be made in 3 or 4mm CF. I prefer 4mm, but for some weight reduction you can go lower aswell. It has screw “locking” mechanism that allows you to replace arm without disassembling whole build. Arms has also motor ventilation holes (rare!) and motor bumpers. They are wide enough for most “barebone” ESCs. Center will fit the 30.5 and 20mm FCs and below you have room up to 4s 2000mah batteries with OPTIONAL battery protector.

This frame is opensource, that means that you can make it yourself or ask your local buddy with machines to print or cut the parts of frame for you! That means cheap non-profit frame with local spare parts, fully customizable and upgradeable. If you are Banggood or Hobbyking or someone similar, you should contact me first!

Specs:
– Fully symmetrical X

– 210mm motor diagonal

– Quickly replaceable arms

– Very sturdy frame!

– Printable and customizable canopy!

– Really aerodynamic frame!

– Minimal screws and spacers

– Clean build – Optional battery protector (12gr)

– around 450gr RTF

Step 1: Opensource Rules:

Makers: No commercial selling of this frame without my approval! You can make it for yourself, your friends or by requests!

Modifiers: You can edit files and modify frame, canopy etc. – but please share modified files so others can use them! No commercial selling of derivatives! Pilots: You can get this frame locally via CNChubs or 3DHubs by sending files OR by asking for parts in this group. I bet there will be makers in your vicinity. To make your 3D print look cool, stronger and more resistant to sunlight follow this tutorial:

https://youtu.be/0vgynnYzo08

(watch this video)

I used for building next equipment, which proven to be good choice:
Gemfan RT2205-2700kv motors,

Tattu 30A ESCs ,

F4 Micro controller with OSD and BEC (20x20mm),

Swift 2 camera,

25/200/600mW 5.8ghz videolink,

Tattu 4s 1550 and 4s 1800 GensAce Tattu Lipos

This selection is quite cheap and turned out to be really good! It flies on rails, power on demand, all acro stuff! No BEC needed, no modifications, less than 2h build time. You also have OSD for voltage and RSSI and maybe some other things if needed. We start the build with ESC and motor soldering. If you want to make it real good, with low resistance and good solder joint, than you shorten the motor wires than split the wire end and solder on both top and bottom of the ESCs.

This selection is quite cheap and turned out to be really good! It flies on rails, power on demand, all acro stuff! No BEC needed, no modifications, less than 2h build time. You also have OSD for voltage and RSSI and maybe some other things if needed.
We start the build with ESC and motor soldering. If you want to make it real good, with low resistance and good solder joint, than you shorten the motor wires than split the wire end and solder on both top and bottom of the ESCs.

(Look these photos)

  1. We do this on all 4 sets. We make 4 sets identical, because we will change motor direction in software. We also add signal cable and main power cables, that are supplied with ESCs.
  2. Now we can complicate a little and turn the ESCs so that MOSFETS are facing the arm. We will add heat transfer material between the ESC and arm to allow arm to act like heat sink. Well… you can also just put ESCs in the heatshrink and let them cool by the motor air-flow.
  3. Here you can see some of the heat-transfer material, that will also insulate esc from carbon fiber on the arm.
  4. And shrink over the boom + ESC, to protect it nicely.
  5. We now have 4 finished arms. We make 2 symmetrical arms.
  6. This image shows how easily is everything put together. We solder rear 2 escs to the XT60 connector directly, and front pair via Y cable, that is also soldered to XT60 directly. Than we have only 1 more thin wire for FC – directly from 4s. Camera and VTX will be powered also from 4s directly, but via FC, to save some wire.
  7. Instead of heavy and bulky PDB, we solder everything to XT60 and cover with heatshrink in the end.
  8. I’ve soldered motor signal wires directly to the FC because I didn’t have suitable connector, but most important is that I made 2 connectors, which I got with camera and vtx and connected them to FC directly (+, – from 4s and video in/out), so I can just mount the canopy and hook up the cables. This is basically it… the build is finished with this
  9. I have one less quality picture how camera and videolink are mounted inside the canopy…
  10. To mount the canopy and have battery protector in the same time, I’ll use M3 stud inside 35mm spacer. If I don’t need battery protector, I’d just use regular screw.
  11. And it’s finished! 2 hours and that’s it
  12. I’ve found a nice way to shave off some weight and resistance 6-10grams… now I can use battery protector without weight worries

Comments

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4DIYers made it! (author)2017-06-22

Great work, thank you for sharing :)

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Bio: I'm a UAV player, I attention most news about UAV, And I know much about UAV or UAV accessories, like batteries, cameras, motor and ... More »
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