Because I am a mildly fashion-conscience woman, with my own design ideas, the allure of being able to convert my designs to real items by simply 3D Printing them was to much to ignore. So with the help of my college friends, I purchased and built a 3D Printer Kit. It seemed forever before I could print something, at the same time my friends reassuring me I could print “anything” and then when I was finally able to print my first few designs, I was less than pleased. I didn’t want gears or robots or toys. I wanted fashion accessories! Not just any accessories, but hopefully pliable with a high quality feel that I could design and print and really use. Maybe sell one day!!
After trying a few different plastics, and still finding that nothing I printed was even remotely pliable, I came to the conclusion 3D Printing simply wouldn’t work for anything I envisioned. Therefore, the 3DPrinter made it’s way to the back of the closet.
Long story shortened, a friend sent me a link to a video where they print in nylon. It was just like any of the other 3D Printing videos you see, except at the end you see a nylon part that can be easily twisted and bent. I was anxious to try it out. He sent me my first samples of 3D Printing nylon and included me in his test program as a designer and nylon tester.
That was three months ago. I’ve been printing Purses, Clutch’s, Belts, Wallets, Rings, Bracelets, Compact cases, Earrings, Necklaces you name it for accessories and because this stuff is so durable, I’m thinking the holy grail of accessories, Shoes! But I’m not that good a designer….yet. Oh, and did I mention you can print out 2 or 3 layer flat sheets and then iron them to make permanent seams and folds?
So, because this 3D printing nylon is so new, and I think there may be others out there that would like to print accessories or smooth, lustrous and pliable items, I wanted to show how I create some simple items and how I 3D print em.
I do want to explain the pictures I am uploading because there are a lot of CAD screen photos. I am doing this because some people may think using 3D CAD is hard and it’s not. I only measure when I absolutely have to and everything else is a guess based on “if it looks good and seems about right and I like it”.
As a tip, there are three CAD commands just for us quick designers that allow us to do anything.
1. Boolean – This is a fancy term for adding two parts to become one part or subtracting one part from another.
2. Fillet – Another fancy term for putting soft round edges on parts.
3. Cage Edit – Another fancy term, but this is great. It’s like having your basic part made of jello. You simply push or pull a certain point and the area around that point follows along…..like…jello! This is what I use most because it lets me push and pull curves into my design and if I don't like it, I just undo it and try again. After playing with the cage command just an hour I had it down and now I'm pretty good at adding nice curves and flow to my designs.
You will notice that I design by adding a known part, like a round peg (cylinder) that equals a lip gloss and then I add and subtract other pegs (cylinders), donuts (torus) and squares to make the part like I want it. And that is why I have the CAD photos so others can see how easy it is.
A short note on 3D Printing.
1. Design your part in a 3D CAD program. Then export the part to a file as a “Part.stl”
2. Slice your part – This is a small program by itself or it comes with your 3D printer.
(This is where you tell the 3D Printer how to make your part. Dense, Hollow, Normal and the number of outside walls. You can make your part in just perimeters or circles or thicker parts you can add fill. Fill is how sturdy the part is. A high fill means the part is printed with lots of nylon inside, so it won't be so pliable or bend as much. And some parts you make hollow, like my purse.)
Load the “Part.stl” in to the slicer program and it will output a file called “Part.gcode” or something similar (see your printer instructions).
3. The “Part.gcode” is the file that the 3D Printer uses to make your part.
4. Don’t worry about all the tech stuff. The printer has sensors to keep you from breaking it, so just keep trying and it will get easier each time.
I have this down to about 2 min, now that I've done it a hundred times. IT is really easier than it sounds.
Each section of my instructable shows a complete accessory. I will show you how I designed a Lip Gloss shell, a compact replacement case, a simple ring, a bracelet, a simple credit card DL and money pocket, a fully usable and pliable belt and last a “KD” designed lustrous, pliable purse with silver adornment.
All the tools we will need:
1 each 3D CAD program – There are free ones and low cost one available on the web, ask some tech friends. I have a student version from college that I use. taul says that Google has "Sketchup" for free and a free one from Autocad "123D" , so check there.
1 each 3D Printer that can print 3mm round Nylon
2 each spools of 618 Nylon from taulman3d.com
– this is what I have tested and use and it cost the same as regular 3D printing plastic It comes a natural color that is really no color but looks bright white when you print with it. You can see this in my photos.
1 each 20 to 40 watt soldering iron with a sharp “clean’ tip
1 each hobby knife to cut away loose threads
1 each Metal ruler 12” type – this must be metal to stand the soldering iron
1 each Metric measuring tool. I use a caliper I bought on ebay They are not very expensive and make measuring in metric a snap. You can use a metric ruler, but it's harder to measure some items.
1 each flat metal surface – like the back of a cookie sheet
1 each Eyelet Crimp tool – these are at all hobby stores
1 each Small Screw driver
1 each Needle Pliers
1 each scissors
1 each small tube of gorilla type glue. You will need a sticky type of thick glue. A lot of glues will not stick to nylon.