loading

Tools and supplies:

white 3d printer filament for the eyes and mouth

any other color of filament for the frame

1 can sandable primer

Apoxie-Sculpt

2 cans Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover 2x Gloss Apple Red spray paint

various grits of sandpaper 100 - 600

5-minute epoxy

A Dremel Tool

(Optional) PVC pipe and screw on gasket

(Optional) 2 Larry2 Nebo lights

All of these items were bought from Amazon.com or my local hardware store.

I made this for the Instructables 3D printing contest, if you like it please vote for me!

Step 1: Print the Frame, Eyes, and Mouth

All the files you need are uploaded here on Thingiverse. Every part I printed was scaled up by 6.6x because that fit my printer best. You can scale the files by any number you choose as long as it is consistent among all files.

I printed each part of the frame with 3 perimeter shells and 25% infill, but you can use the settings you're most comfortable with. The frame pieces can be printed in any color because they'll be primed and painted over later. Try to save one of the support pieces from an ear base. As shown in the next step this support piece is helpful for propping up other pieces as the glue dries.

The eyes and mouth need to be printed in white with 0% infill and 2 perimeter shells to make sure light can shine through. Be sure to adjust the eye model as shown in the second picture so that most of the cone is under the print floor, but there are still some "flaps" available to later attach the eye to the frame after it is painted.

Step 2: Glue the Frame Together

Use your favorite glue to attach the frame together. I use a 5-minute epoxy because it takes 5 minutes to mature, which is helpful in making the edges flush. I don't recommend using superglue because it matures in around 10 seconds, which isn't very much time to adjust the pieces.

The eyes and mouth should not be attached yet because the frame is going to be spraypainted and sanded.

Step 3: Prime the Model

Depending on your model, you may want to sand your plastic seams with a coarse sandpaper before priming. I used black Rust-Oleum sandable primer. Spray a few coats all over the model and pay extra attention to the seams.

Step 4: Sand the Model

Sand the model as smooth as you would like. Pay special attention to the seams. Start with a low 100-200 grit, and work your way up sequentially to a high 600 grit. In between rounds of sanding you should apply Apoxie-Sculpt to the seams (detailed in the next step) and/or primer as needed to get a smooth finished product.

Step 5: Smooth the Edges With Apoxie Sculpt

Mix the two parts together and apply Apoxie-Sculpt to the most uneven seams. You will probably have to repeat priming, sanding, and applying Apoxie Sculpt until the model is smooth to your standards.

Step 6: Once the Model Is Smooth, Prime It One Last Time

Once the model is as smooth as you can make it, prime the model one last time and sand it with high 600 grit sandpaper.

Step 7: Paint the Model

Wipe any dust from the model and spray paint it with several coats of spray paint. I used two cans of Rust-Oleum 2X UltraCover Gloss Apple Red. You may need to sand some painted surfaces to remove any drips or impurities.

Step 8: Hollow Out the Eyes and Mouth

Use a dremel tool to cut out holes in the flat part behind the eyes to allow more light through. Then use a dremel tool to cut the back plane of the mouthpiece away. I recommend using a dremel tool or other rotary tool because the friction of cutting welds the layers together at the site of the cut.

Step 9: (Optional) Glue a Pole Mount Inside the Head

This step is not necessary if you are making a wearable helmet, but is helpful for mounting the Deadmau5 head on a pole. I used a screw-on pvc pipe gasket that fit a wood pole. Mount the pvc pipe in the center of the helmet where the four corners of the frame come together.

Step 10: (Optional) Set Up the Lights

I used two Larry2 NEBO LED Work Lights. Use some rubber bands around the top of the lights and the pole mount to mount the lights and some rubber bands at the bottom to help keep the lights angled and stationary. Try to angle them so light is evenly distributed between the eyes and mouth.

If you didn't install a pole mount, you can use some glue or velcro strips inside the helmet.

Step 11: Attach the Eyes and Mouth to the Painted Frame

Once the frame is painted, use your glue to fix the eyes in the eye holes and the mouth to the mouth hole. It is easier to attach the eyes before attaching the mouth.

If you enjoyed this Instructable and found it easy to follow, please vote for me in the Instructable 3D printing contest!

Thanks!

<p>Cool. The light up eyes really finish it. </p>

About This Instructable

3,583views

21favorites

License:

More by mackelday:3D print and finish a light-up a Deadmau5 Helmet 
Add instructable to: