Introduction: 3Doodler 2.0 Intro
This Instructable is about WobblyWork's newest edition of their 3Doodler: 3D Printing Pen, the 2Doodler 2.0.
When I backed the original 3Doodler, all I could think of was the uses my students could find and the things they could create. They never ended up making anything with the original 3Doodler because we were so confused on how to use it safely, so eventually I traded it in. Now I have the 3Doodler 2.0 and it is SOOOO much easier to use.
I can't wait to see what my students come up with. The second picture is of an Elopus bookmark.
Step 1: 3Doodler 2.0 Parts
Set ABS and FLEXY filament to "high".
Set PLA and WOOD filament to "low".
When you plug the 3Doodler in, wait until the indicator light turns from red to green (PLA/WOOD) or blue (ABS/FLEXY) before feeding filament.
The temp adjuster allows you to use the mini screwdriver to adjust the temperature of your 3Doodler for a better flow (you also might find this completely unnecessary).
Step 2: Speed & Feeding
When you first insert the filament, push down a bit until you feel it "catch".
Using continuous flow, especially on the fast setting, can be a bit tricky at first. I highly recommend starting on slow and then continuous slow until you get used to it. I wasted a lot of filament figuring that out.
You aren't committed to one color/strand of filament at a time. By pressing down on both the "fast" and "slow" buttons simultaneously, the filament will begin to reverse and can be removed (gently). The indicator LED will blink when the 3Doodler is ready to reverse.
Step 3: Designs
The WobblyWorks website has premade stencils that you can print out and use for your doodles. They also have a community section where people can submit their designs, ideas, and creations.
You can use anything to make your design. Clipart, photos, your own drawings, etc.
Step 4: Getting Started
Once you've got your 3Doodler set up and design picked, you can start doodling. The 3Doodler is supposed to be used like a regular pen, so if you are using a paper stencil and you want your filament to stick, you have to press down close to the paper. If you don't, the filament won't stay down and you'll run into problems with the nozzle getting stuck on the extruded filament.
Step 5: Tips
When making designs such as the pyramid in the second photo, draw your bottom layer first, if you're using continuous flow, stop and then go to one end and draw up. Let the filament cool for a few seconds and then do your additional lines, one at a time. Stopping extrusion when your line is done will let you cut it off.
ABS cools faster than PLA, so ABS is typically better for drawing in the air. PLA takes longer to cool so you can still manipulate it a bit after extruding.
Personally, I find the PLA a lot easier to work with. The blue Elopus bookmark is done in PLA. Everything else on this Instructable is done in ABS.
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