I wanted to make a 3D printer for a long time. When I decided to make it, I bought necessary materials and I started with my 3D printer dreamed. I was looking for information on many websites and I saw different models, Prusa , Delta, etc. In the end, I decide to make the Delta model since it was the most attractive model for me .

Then I 'll describe you how I did it . I will start to explain you how I made the prototype needed to make pieces of the final printer, I hope you like it and you feel encouraged to make your own 3D printer.

Step 1: Materials

LCD --> Price: 7,56€


Arduino Mega 2560 --> Price: 6,84€


Ramps 1.4 --> Price: 3,73€


4 Pololus --> Price: 1,44 x 4 = 5,76€


Headbed --> Price: 6,40€


Hotend 1,75 mm and mouthpiece 0.4mm --> Price: 4,40€


Mirror 215mm x 215mm --> Price: 5€ (bought glassware)

Kapton tape --> Price: 1,09€


Termistor NTC 100k --> Price: 1,17€


PTFE tube (1 m) (1,75mm) --> Price: 1,79€


Aluminum extruder --> Price: 4,74€


6 Linear bearings --> Price: 12,52€ (10u)


3 Endstop --> Price: 0,72€


Fan 40x40mm --> Price: 1,68€


6 Pulleys and 3 straps --> Price: 9,27€


6 Stainless steel bars(80 cm of 8 mm) --> Price: 17,42€ (In hardware store)

12 traxxas 5347 --> Price: 8€ (USA)

Carbon fiber tube (6 mm) --> Price: 4€ (Decathlon)

4 stepper motors NEMA17 --> Price: 32,8€ (joint purchase)

Threaded rod --> Price: 0.80€ (In Leroy Merlin)

Screws --> Price: 4€ (In Leroy Merlin)

3 dock--> Price: 0,65€ (In Leroy Merlin)

Custard rate --> Price: 1,50€ (In Carrefour)

PC power supply (400 W) --> recovered from old pc

Filament --> Price: 20€

TOTAL PRICE --> 155,38€

Step 2: The Electronic

Before mounting it, it is recommended to test the electronic to make sure everything works fine. To do this, we need to load the firmware in Arduino. We will use two types of firmware, Sprinter and Marlin. First we use an old version of Sprinter just to test the electronic as this allows you to move motors without having to activate the sensors. Then in the end, we will load new version of Marlin.

To carry out all this process I followed the tutorial on next website:


Step 3: Setting the Pololus

Firstly we have to adjust the pololus to limit the maximum current that will consume the engines.To do this we need a multimeter (to see the current flowing through the motor), a ceramic screwdriver and Pronterface program. What we must do is to put a motor on the connector of the extruder and make it work through Pronterface program. Then we will adjust the pololus potentiometers, one by one, until the desired values, which in our case are: 400 mA for the extruder and 200 mA for each axis (X, Y, Z). To view the current we will use the multimeter.

For this configuration I followed the tutorial on the next website:


I recommend you to see it, as it is very well explained and it includes some videos.

Step 4: Preparation and Assembly of the Structure

First thing that we are going to build is the prototype. It took me a day to mount it.

We print the plane in A2 format, then the plane is placed on a wood and we cut it. This is done to both, the bottom and the top. Then we drilled holes with 8 mm drill. It is recommended to drill the holes with the two boards together to make it more accurate. At the top we will make a big hole where we will place the engine of the extruder. At the base we will make a small hole to put wires of hotbed.

To hold the filament we cut a piece of wood bar and two pieces as you can see in the pictures. We put steel rods into the holes. The pulleys are caught with a screw in the center of the edge of the wood without pressing to make it can turn easily.

We put both engines extruder such as the X, Y, Z as shown in the pictures.

Step 5: Construction of the Arms and Support for the Hotend

For the construction of the arms, we cut six pieces of carbon fiber tube of 215 mm and 12 pieces of 50 mm threaded rod. Then in a wood, we screwed two screws at a distance of 250 mm and we will cut off the head of the screw. Then we paste the rods to carbon fiber tube and traxxas. we place these rods in the two screws that we put into the wood. This procedure must do for the 6 rods.

I used a metallic glass that are used in desserts for supporting the hotend. We cut the glass with Dremel as shown in the pictures. We assemble all the screws and put a dock to snug.

Step 6: Construction of Supports for Bearings

For bearings I used two pieces of wood in the form of T. We made some holes to hold bearings with clips. To hold arms, I put two metal angles for each carbon fiber tube. Finally, to hold the strap it has been used staples, It has strained well and then have it all other staples. Then I tried if it was working well in the printer.

Step 7: Placing the HotBed and EndStop

To put a glass or mirror above the HotBed, I have milled holes of hotbed to introduce the heads of the screws.. Then I have soldered a led and power cables.The thermistor has been fastened in the center of the bed with Kapton tape.

The EndStop have been fastened with the wire as you can see in the picture.

Step 8: Firmware

For firmware settings I advise you to follow the tutorial in this website:


here you have my file set. You should set it depending on the size of your printer.

Step 9: Calibration

This is the most difficult step to make because you have to dedicate a lot time to get calibrate it perfectly.The HotBed must be leveled perfectly and make that the Hotend touch slightly a sheet between the bed and the HotEnd.

You can see these videos where the author suggests what you should do:

To calibrate the axes watch this video:

Step 10: Finished Prototype

In the images we can see the finished prototype and some manufactured parts. As you can see the quality is not too good but enough to build the final printer.

I show you a video with the printer running:

Step 11: Creating Parts With the Prototype

With the finished prototype we print all the parts needed for the final printer. In the images I show you these pieces.

You can download the pieces in the following file:

Step 12: Creation and Painted the Structure of the Final Printer

We build a box for the base of the printer with pine wood. We do all holes including 2 large holes for fans, these be in charge of refrigerate all the electronics. For the backside we use a pine board. I have cut the top in a rounded shape and I have milled it. Finally we give several coats of varnish with spray, leaving as shown in the pictures.

Step 13: Placement of Engines

We put the motors as shown in the pictures. We also place pulleys and EndStop with their pieces.

Step 14: Placement of Arms

In this step, we just have to put the pieces together with screws and mount it on the structure of the printer.

The following file contains some improved parts.

Step 15: Finalization of the Printer

The only thing left to do is to connect all the electronic (including the screen with the support that was printed before) and to tense the straps slightly. In the images we can see the printer already finished.

Here's a video printing:

Step 16: Prints Made

As you can see from the pictures, the prints are already quality but to achieve it I have been almost a month calibrating everything and printing several times the printer pieces.

<p>Buenas Mariano.</p><p>Lo primero darte la enhorabuena y agradecerte por poner esto para que todo el mundo pueda hacerla, me has animado :D.</p><p>Tengo un problemilla con la regulaci&oacute;n de los pololus. De la misma manera que en el video los regulo todos desde el extrusor, y los motores se mueven muy bien . El problema viene cuando los drivers los pongo en sus sitios para los ejes X, Y y Z, no se mueven. Dandoles mas intensidad tampoco consigo que funcionen . </p><p>Te ha pasado algo similar y/o sabes como poder solucionarlo?.</p><p>Muchas gracias!</p>
<p>Hola&iexcl;&iexcl; </p><p>Es muy raro que te pase eso... necesitar&iacute;a tener m&aacute;s informaci&oacute;n para poder ayudarte. C&oacute;mo haces para ver si se mueven o no los motores de los ejes X, Y y Z?</p><p>Me alegro mucho de que os anim&eacute;is para hacer este proyecto ya que creo que es algo &uacute;til para mucha gente.</p><p>Un saludo.</p>
<p>Pues con el pronterface , en su interfaz, le doy a mover los ejes X , Y o Z para ver si lo mueve de manera correcta , pero en lugar de moverse aunque sea un poco , hacen ruido.</p><p>Una vez mas muchas gracias, y un saludo.</p>
<p>Comprueba que los cables de los motores est&eacute;n bien conectados, ya que de no estarlos puede producir ruido y no girar.</p><p>Un saludo.</p>
<p>Hola Mariano! Muchas gracias por poner este proyecto de forma libre. Quiero este proyecto, pero muchos de los links que pones para comprar el material ya no van, como no se mucho, no se cual comprar en su lugar. Un saludo y de nuevo gracias.</p>
<p>Hola&iexcl;&iexcl; Muchas gracias por tus palabras. Acabo de actualizar los links que ya no estaban operativos. </p><p>Un saludo.</p>
<p>Gracias por responder tan pronto!! Estoy viendo los links y tengo algunas dudas, </p>PCB Climatizada MK2B, este no est&aacute; disponible,&iquest;Cu&aacute;l puedo coger?. En el PTFE Teflon Tuber&iacute;a Conectores, &iquest;Cojo el Type A o el TypeB?. Los ventilador 40 * 40 * 10 mm no est&aacute;n disponibles, &iquest;Puedo coger cualquiera con esas dimensiones?. Eso es todo gracias!!!
<p>Hola de nuevo. Ya cambi&eacute; el enlace del PCB Climatizada. Respecto al PTFE tefl&oacute;n, compra el tipo A si vas a usar hilo de 1,75 que es lo mejor. Puedes usar cualquier tipo de ventilador de esas dimensiones. Un saludo.</p>
Hola mariano espero que este bien no quer&iacute;a molestarte pero no tengo de hotra tengo un inconveniente cuando env&iacute;o el comando (M666) luego de mandar la punta del hocten frente a la torre (x,y,z) en donde Z5 es la distancia que poseo en cada torre y voy bajando desde 1mm y luego 0,1mm con la hoja de paper entre la cama caliente y la punta del hocten en vio este comando<br>(M666)no me presenta nada en el rejistro de la eepro de repetie o de proteface ya que deber&iacute;a de presentarme unas condenada de la distancia de la punta del hocten y la cama caliente.apuro trabajo e logrado conseguir que la punta del hocten haga fricci&oacute;n en la hoja de paper pero en algunos caso (0.50mm) por encima de la hoja cuando quiero bajar eso (0.50mm) la punta se queda en el mismo sitio o retroceder m&aacute;s .
<p>Hola Alex. Lo mejor es que veas las coordenadas en la pantalla de la impresora y que cambies el valor de la altura z en el c&oacute;digo. Tienes que ir probando mucho.. no es f&aacute;cil.</p><p>Un saludo.</p>
Muchas gracia maestro ya la tengo casi terminada esto es una foto en donde estaba probando con un l&aacute;piz solo quiero preguntarle algo cuando realiz&oacute; el homi los carriles tocan los finales de carrera y asen un cambio y se apagan pero en ves de quedarse pisando los finales de carrera bajan como 8mm por lo que la distancia del eje (Z) varia mucho...y de nuevo muchas gracias.
<p>Hola Alex.</p><p>Cuando haces un Homing, debe de tocar los finales de carrera e inmediatamente bajar un poco y por &uacute;ltimo volver a subir. Si como tu dices, se quedan 8 mm m&aacute;s bajo, puedes configurar la altura para que siempre se quede con esos 8 mm menos.</p><p>Un saludo.</p>
<p>Hola Mariano lo conete como me hubieses dicho los finales de carrera pero en marlin (NO) me responde y en sprinter (SI).</p>
<p>Pero lo est&aacute;s probando con la aplicaci&oacute;n repertier-host?</p>
Hola y grasia por todo mira este finar de carrera lo consegu&iacute; en una impresora de tinta.. tengo lo 3 conetado(COM Y NC) Y configurado en marlin (false) pero no me reponde cuando ago el home me podrias ayudar.
<p>Respecto a la calibraci&oacute;n que me preguntastes, debes de modifcar el valor de la altura del eje Z que lo puedes ver en la imagen 1 y quiz&aacute;s tambi&eacute;n debes de modificar los valores de las 3 l&iacute;neas que te he marcado en la imagen 2 adem&aacute;s de ajustar los tornillos que hacen tope con los finales de carrera. </p><p>Tendr&aacute;s que cambiarlo muchas veces e ir probando hasta que consigas calibrarlo.</p>
<p>Hola Alex,</p><p>Hace unos 6 meses nuestro amigo MarcS2 le pas&oacute; lo mismo. Si quieres buscalo m&aacute;s abajo porque &eacute;l lleg&oacute; a solucionarlo. Yo creo recordar que le dije que usara el software repertier-host. Yo no lo conectar&iacute;a as&iacute;, pondr&iacute;a COM y NO. Bueno, ya me cuentas. </p>
<p>Any English tutorial for the electronics specifically?</p>
Hello<br>All the step drivers use jumpers?<br>Cheers
<p>What is the unit of measure in the pdf for the wooden bases?</p>
<p>Hi there again :D after 6 months I've finally got my printer up and running. It was my Arduino IDE who gave all the problems. Last week I've installed the 1.0.5 version of the IDE and... poof... it uploaded seamlessly. So now I'm playing a bit with it and I notice that when I click on the &quot;home&quot; button, the extruder goes up but doesn't stop when the end switches are pushed until after a few seconds. I've already tried to invert the switches in the firmware but that doesn't seems to work. Is this a normal behavior or is there something else I can look at? Greets Sander</p>
<p>My bad! I've found out what my problem was. I've misplaced the connectors of the endstops during the last repairs. </p>
<p>Hello, sorry for not answering before but I've been busy these days. I am glad it has been solved.</p>
After several months of building i now finished my first prototype of your 3D printer :) also installed an inductive sensor for auto bed leveling. Can't wait to try out the first print. Thanks for your awesome instructable!
<p>Hello!!</p><p>I'm glad you built it. It is a good idea to use an inductive sensor to level the bed. Turn it on. :)</p><p>Regards.</p>
One more question, you really printed all your parts out of PLA? Even the ones close to the nozzle? Doesn't the heat damage the parts or make them weak? Thanks and best Regards :)
<p>Hello.</p><p> Yes, I printed all parts with PLA. The heat is not enough to damage them, do not worry.</p>
<p>could i use aluminium instead of wood?</p>
<p>Of course</p>
<p>After a few months of work and also wait for parts I finally made it !!!!</p><p>Great design, your instructables was what i needed to get started at making my own printer. </p><p>I would only point out that web site really help me calibrate it : </p><p>http://smoothieware.org/delta</p>
<p>what kind of wood did you use, and do you have problems with warping?</p>
<p>Pine wood and I work well.</p>
I used 1/2 mdf and no it didn't warp because the front rods are firmly held at the top and bottom to the frame.
<p>Thank you</p>
<p>and wich nema 17 did you use?</p>
<p>NEMA17 42HS40-1504A05-D20</p>
Sorry i cant find that type of steppermotor
<p><a href="https://es.aliexpress.com/item/Best-Quality-5-PCS-4-lead-NEMA17-stepper-motor-42HS40-1704-38oz-in-40mm-1-7A/1544981487.html">https://es.aliexpress.com/item/Best-Quality-5-PCS-...</a></p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.es/itm/JK42HS48-1684-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-45Ncm-2A-4-wire-1m-Cable-for-DIY-3D-Printer-/222194735397?hash=item33bbd69925:g:NzkAAOSwA3dYOBH~">http://www.ebay.es/itm/JK42HS48-1684-Nema-17-Stepp...</a></p>
Sorry for All the questions but im planning to make this for a schoolproject.
Hola, usted tiene la &uacute;ltima estructura de madera tallas
what i meant to say was do you Have template or sizes for the final worden parts
<p>No, they are the same as for the prototype alone that must be adjusted for the motors to enter the base.</p>
ok thank you
the 3d printed parts, from which material are they Made, pla or abs?
thank you for the answers
<p>could you print the printer pieces for me?</p>
<p>I can not, I'm from Spain.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I am an electronic systems engineer.
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