Introduction: 3D Home Printer With Arduino

I wanted to make a 3D printer for a long time. When I decided to make it, I bought necessary materials and I started with my 3D printer dreamed. I was looking for information on many websites and I saw different models, Prusa , Delta, etc. In the end, I decide to make the Delta model since it was the most attractive model for me .

Then I 'll describe you how I did it . I will start to explain you how I made the prototype needed to make pieces of the final printer, I hope you like it and you feel encouraged to make your own 3D printer.

Step 1: Materials

LCD --> Price: 7,56€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/Promotion-3D-Printer...

Arduino Mega 2560 --> Price: 6,84€

http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shippi...

Ramps 1.4 --> Price: 3,73€

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/RAMPS-1-4-...

4 Pololus --> Price: 1,44 x 4 = 5,76€

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Red-StepSt...

Headbed --> Price: 6,40€

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Geeetech-R...

Hotend 1,75 mm and mouthpiece 0.4mm --> Price: 4,40€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/FreeShipping-Long-di...

Mirror 215mm x 215mm --> Price: 5€ (bought glassware)

Kapton tape --> Price: 1,09€

http://www.ebay.es/itm/5mm-X-100ft-Cinta-Kapton-Te...

Termistor NTC 100k --> Price: 1,17€

http://www.ebay.es/itm/Termistor-Ntc-100K-Ohm-3950...

PTFE tube (1 m) (1,75mm) --> Price: 1,79€

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/1M-3D-Prin...

Aluminum extruder --> Price: 4,74€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-accessori...

6 Linear bearings --> Price: 12,52€ (10u)

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipp...

3 Endstop --> Price: 0,72€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-3D-printer...

Fan 40x40mm --> Price: 1,68€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/CoolCube-1pc-Makerbo...

6 Pulleys and 3 straps --> Price: 9,27€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/2Pcs-20-GT2-6-GT2-Pu...

6 Stainless steel bars(80 cm of 8 mm) --> Price: 17,42€ (In hardware store)

12 traxxas 5347 --> Price: 8€ (USA)

Carbon fiber tube (6 mm) --> Price: 4€ (Decathlon)

4 stepper motors NEMA17 42HS40-1504A05-D20--> Price: 32,8€ (joint purchase)

Threaded rod --> Price: 0.80€ (In Leroy Merlin)

Screws --> Price: 4€ (In Leroy Merlin)

3 dock--> Price: 0,65€ (In Leroy Merlin)

Custard rate --> Price: 1,50€ (In Carrefour)

PC power supply (400 W) --> recovered from old pc

Filament --> Price: 20€

TOTAL PRICE --> 155,38€

Step 2: The Electronic

Before mounting it, it is recommended to test the electronic to make sure everything works fine. To do this, we need to load the firmware in Arduino. We will use two types of firmware, Sprinter and Marlin. First we use an old version of Sprinter just to test the electronic as this allows you to move motors without having to activate the sensors. Then in the end, we will load new version of Marlin.

To carry out all this process I followed the tutorial on next website:

http://www.zonamaker.com/impresion-3d/crea-impreso...

Step 3: Setting the Pololus

Firstly we have to adjust the pololus to limit the maximum current that will consume the engines.To do this we need a multimeter (to see the current flowing through the motor), a ceramic screwdriver and Pronterface program. What we must do is to put a motor on the connector of the extruder and make it work through Pronterface program. Then we will adjust the pololus potentiometers, one by one, until the desired values, which in our case are: 400 mA for the extruder and 200 mA for each axis (X, Y, Z). To view the current we will use the multimeter.

For this configuration I followed the tutorial on the next website:

http://www.zonamaker.com/impresion-3d/crea-impres...

I recommend you to see it, as it is very well explained and it includes some videos.

Step 4: Preparation and Assembly of the Structure

First thing that we are going to build is the prototype. It took me a day to mount it.

We print the plane in A2 format, then the plane is placed on a wood and we cut it. This is done to both, the bottom and the top. Then we drilled holes with 8 mm drill. It is recommended to drill the holes with the two boards together to make it more accurate. At the top we will make a big hole where we will place the engine of the extruder. At the base we will make a small hole to put wires of hotbed.

To hold the filament we cut a piece of wood bar and two pieces as you can see in the pictures. We put steel rods into the holes. The pulleys are caught with a screw in the center of the edge of the wood without pressing to make it can turn easily.

We put both engines extruder such as the X, Y, Z as shown in the pictures.

Step 5: Construction of the Arms and Support for the Hotend

For the construction of the arms, we cut six pieces of carbon fiber tube of 215 mm and 12 pieces of 50 mm threaded rod. Then in a wood, we screwed two screws at a distance of 250 mm and we will cut off the head of the screw. Then we paste the rods to carbon fiber tube and traxxas. we place these rods in the two screws that we put into the wood. This procedure must do for the 6 rods.

I used a metallic glass that are used in desserts for supporting the hotend. We cut the glass with Dremel as shown in the pictures. We assemble all the screws and put a dock to snug.

Step 6: Construction of Supports for Bearings

For bearings I used two pieces of wood in the form of T. We made some holes to hold bearings with clips. To hold arms, I put two metal angles for each carbon fiber tube. Finally, to hold the strap it has been used staples, It has strained well and then have it all other staples. Then I tried if it was working well in the printer.

Step 7: Placing the HotBed and EndStop

To put a glass or mirror above the HotBed, I have milled holes of hotbed to introduce the heads of the screws.. Then I have soldered a led and power cables.The thermistor has been fastened in the center of the bed with Kapton tape.

The EndStop have been fastened with the wire as you can see in the picture.

Step 8: Firmware

For firmware settings I advise you to follow the tutorial in this website:

http://www.zonamaker.com/impresion-3d/crea-impreso...

here you have my file set. You should set it depending on the size of your printer.

Step 9: Calibration

This is the most difficult step to make because you have to dedicate a lot time to get calibrate it perfectly.The HotBed must be leveled perfectly and make that the Hotend touch slightly a sheet between the bed and the HotEnd.

You can see these videos where the author suggests what you should do:

To calibrate the axes watch this video:

Step 10: Finished Prototype

In the images we can see the finished prototype and some manufactured parts. As you can see the quality is not too good but enough to build the final printer.

I show you a video with the printer running:

Step 11: Creating Parts With the Prototype

With the finished prototype we print all the parts needed for the final printer. In the images I show you these pieces.

You can download the pieces in the following file:

Step 12: Creation and Painted the Structure of the Final Printer

We build a box for the base of the printer with pine wood. We do all holes including 2 large holes for fans, these be in charge of refrigerate all the electronics. For the backside we use a pine board. I have cut the top in a rounded shape and I have milled it. Finally we give several coats of varnish with spray, leaving as shown in the pictures.

Step 13: Placement of Engines

We put the motors as shown in the pictures. We also place pulleys and EndStop with their pieces.

Step 14: Placement of Arms

In this step, we just have to put the pieces together with screws and mount it on the structure of the printer.

The following file contains some improved parts.

Step 15: Finalization of the Printer

The only thing left to do is to connect all the electronic (including the screen with the support that was printed before) and to tense the straps slightly. In the images we can see the printer already finished.

Here's a video printing:

Step 16: Prints Made

As you can see from the pictures, the prints are already quality but to achieve it I have been almost a month calibrating everything and printing several times the printer pieces.

Comments

author
premkumawat (author)2017-08-15

which software you are using to creat stl & gcode files?

author
QuimG1 (author)2017-07-21

Buenas Mariano, primeramente felicitarte por tu excelente trabajo. Tengo que hacer un trabajo muy importante y me has animado a hacer este proyecto. Me preguntaría si me podrías dar algún método de contacto para preguntarte cosas si me surge alguna duda. Soy un chico de 16 años y seria genial contar con tu ayuda, por eso te ruego que si puedes y si me surge alguna duda pueda contar con tu ayuda. Te dejo un correo, el mio: qgutbon@gmail.com

author
QuimG1 (author)2017-07-21

Buenas Mariano, primeramente felicitarte por tu excelente trabajo. Tengo un trabajo muy importante y tengo que hacer una impresora 3D y estaría interesado en construir tu proyecto, ya que esta muy bien documentado. Pero por si acaso podrías darme algún método para contactar contigo más fácilmente por si surgiera una duda o algo parecido?¿. Soy un chico de 16 años y contar con tu ayuda sería muy bueno, si pudieras te dejo un correo: ( qgutbon@gmail.com )

Más que nada era para si surgiera alguna duda y como tenemos la facilidad de comunicarnos en español como he dicho seria genial.

author
flembag (author)2017-06-13

if you already have access to a 3d printer is their any reason to build the prototype?

author

Hi, if you can print the parts on a 3D printer, you do not need to make the prototype. The prototype I did so that I could make the parts I needed.

author
akankit114 (author)2017-06-13

what is the length of each arm?

author

The total arm length is 250mm

author
CCX191 (author)2017-05-09

Great project and build process. Very admirable to see how it started from temporary parts to self made parts by itself, truly a reprap project. Since I've just acquired a 3D printer and gained much interest in building my own Delta printer. I am wondering how the length of the arms should be measured according to the size of the printer.I already have a square heatbed so your build is very relevant.

author

Thank you very much.

The length of the arms should be such that it can travel the entire base of the printer. This data will be entered into the arduino code to fit that distance.

author

Thanks for your prompt reply! Will build it in my free time :)

author
SantiagoM51 (author)2017-04-21

Buenas Mariano.

Lo primero darte la enhorabuena y agradecerte por poner esto para que todo el mundo pueda hacerla, me has animado :D.

Tengo un problemilla con la regulación de los pololus. De la misma manera que en el video los regulo todos desde el extrusor, y los motores se mueven muy bien . El problema viene cuando los drivers los pongo en sus sitios para los ejes X, Y y Z, no se mueven. Dandoles mas intensidad tampoco consigo que funcionen .

Te ha pasado algo similar y/o sabes como poder solucionarlo?.

Muchas gracias!

author

Hola¡¡

Es muy raro que te pase eso... necesitaría tener más información para poder ayudarte. Cómo haces para ver si se mueven o no los motores de los ejes X, Y y Z?

Me alegro mucho de que os animéis para hacer este proyecto ya que creo que es algo útil para mucha gente.

Un saludo.

author

Pues con el pronterface , en su interfaz, le doy a mover los ejes X , Y o Z para ver si lo mueve de manera correcta , pero en lugar de moverse aunque sea un poco , hacen ruido.

Una vez mas muchas gracias, y un saludo.

author

Comprueba que los cables de los motores estén bien conectados, ya que de no estarlos puede producir ruido y no girar.

Un saludo.

author
exonent (author)2017-04-10

Hola Mariano! Muchas gracias por poner este proyecto de forma libre. Quiero este proyecto, pero muchos de los links que pones para comprar el material ya no van, como no se mucho, no se cual comprar en su lugar. Un saludo y de nuevo gracias.

author

Hola¡¡ Muchas gracias por tus palabras. Acabo de actualizar los links que ya no estaban operativos.

Un saludo.

author

Gracias por responder tan pronto!! Estoy viendo los links y tengo algunas dudas,

PCB Climatizada MK2B, este no está disponible,¿Cuál puedo coger?. En el PTFE Teflon Tubería Conectores, ¿Cojo el Type A o el TypeB?. Los ventilador 40 * 40 * 10 mm no están disponibles, ¿Puedo coger cualquiera con esas dimensiones?. Eso es todo gracias!!!
author

Hola de nuevo. Ya cambié el enlace del PCB Climatizada. Respecto al PTFE teflón, compra el tipo A si vas a usar hilo de 1,75 que es lo mejor. Puedes usar cualquier tipo de ventilador de esas dimensiones. Un saludo.

author
Alex mejia (author)2017-04-04

Hola mariano espero que este bien no quería molestarte pero no tengo de hotra tengo un inconveniente cuando envío el comando (M666) luego de mandar la punta del hocten frente a la torre (x,y,z) en donde Z5 es la distancia que poseo en cada torre y voy bajando desde 1mm y luego 0,1mm con la hoja de paper entre la cama caliente y la punta del hocten en vio este comando
(M666)no me presenta nada en el rejistro de la eepro de repetie o de proteface ya que debería de presentarme unas condenada de la distancia de la punta del hocten y la cama caliente.apuro trabajo e logrado conseguir que la punta del hocten haga fricción en la hoja de paper pero en algunos caso (0.50mm) por encima de la hoja cuando quiero bajar eso (0.50mm) la punta se queda en el mismo sitio o retroceder más .

author

Hola Alex. Lo mejor es que veas las coordenadas en la pantalla de la impresora y que cambies el valor de la altura z en el código. Tienes que ir probando mucho.. no es fácil.

Un saludo.

author
Alex mejia (author)2017-03-25

Muchas gracia maestro ya la tengo casi terminada esto es una foto en donde estaba probando con un lápiz solo quiero preguntarle algo cuando realizó el homi los carriles tocan los finales de carrera y asen un cambio y se apagan pero en ves de quedarse pisando los finales de carrera bajan como 8mm por lo que la distancia del eje (Z) varia mucho...y de nuevo muchas gracias.

20170325_194856.jpg
author

Hola Alex.

Cuando haces un Homing, debe de tocar los finales de carrera e inmediatamente bajar un poco y por último volver a subir. Si como tu dices, se quedan 8 mm más bajo, puedes configurar la altura para que siempre se quede con esos 8 mm menos.

Un saludo.

author
Alex mejia (author)2017-03-18

Hola Mariano lo conete como me hubieses dicho los finales de carrera pero en marlin (NO) me responde y en sprinter (SI).

author

Pero lo estás probando con la aplicación repertier-host?

author
Alex mejia made it! (author)2017-03-17

Hola y grasia por todo mira este finar de carrera lo conseguí en una impresora de tinta.. tengo lo 3 conetado(COM Y NC) Y configurado en marlin (false) pero no me reponde cuando ago el home me podrias ayudar.

20170317_124143.jpg
author

Respecto a la calibración que me preguntastes, debes de modifcar el valor de la altura del eje Z que lo puedes ver en la imagen 1 y quizás también debes de modificar los valores de las 3 líneas que te he marcado en la imagen 2 además de ajustar los tornillos que hacen tope con los finales de carrera.

Tendrás que cambiarlo muchas veces e ir probando hasta que consigas calibrarlo.

Captura1.JPGCaptura.JPG
author

Hola Alex,

Hace unos 6 meses nuestro amigo MarcS2 le pasó lo mismo. Si quieres buscalo más abajo porque él llegó a solucionarlo. Yo creo recordar que le dije que usara el software repertier-host. Yo no lo conectaría así, pondría COM y NO. Bueno, ya me cuentas.

author
CassiusMax (author)2017-02-19

Any English tutorial for the electronics specifically?

author
Kuragasa (author)2017-01-24

Hello
All the step drivers use jumpers?
Cheers

author
CassiusMax (author)2017-01-07

What is the unit of measure in the pdf for the wooden bases?

author

Millimeters

author
Cyborg2004 (author)2017-01-03

Hi there again :D after 6 months I've finally got my printer up and running. It was my Arduino IDE who gave all the problems. Last week I've installed the 1.0.5 version of the IDE and... poof... it uploaded seamlessly. So now I'm playing a bit with it and I notice that when I click on the "home" button, the extruder goes up but doesn't stop when the end switches are pushed until after a few seconds. I've already tried to invert the switches in the firmware but that doesn't seems to work. Is this a normal behavior or is there something else I can look at? Greets Sander

author
Cyborg2004 (author)Cyborg20042017-01-05

My bad! I've found out what my problem was. I've misplaced the connectors of the endstops during the last repairs.

author

Hello, sorry for not answering before but I've been busy these days. I am glad it has been solved.

author
Babatz (author)2016-12-07

After several months of building i now finished my first prototype of your 3D printer :) also installed an inductive sensor for auto bed leveling. Can't wait to try out the first print. Thanks for your awesome instructable!

temp_-1069872568.jpg
author

Hello!!

I'm glad you built it. It is a good idea to use an inductive sensor to level the bed. Turn it on. :)

Regards.

author

One more question, you really printed all your parts out of PLA? Even the ones close to the nozzle? Doesn't the heat damage the parts or make them weak? Thanks and best Regards :)

author

Hello.

Yes, I printed all parts with PLA. The heat is not enough to damage them, do not worry.

author
SilverEye2000 (author)2016-11-29

could i use aluminium instead of wood?

author

Of course

author
fortin made it! (author)2016-11-23

After a few months of work and also wait for parts I finally made it !!!!

Great design, your instructables was what i needed to get started at making my own printer.

I would only point out that web site really help me calibrate it :

http://smoothieware.org/delta

20161120_163029.jpg
author
SilverEye2000 (author)fortin2016-11-29

what kind of wood did you use, and do you have problems with warping?

author

Pine wood and I work well.

author
fortin (author)SilverEye20002016-11-29

I used 1/2 mdf and no it didn't warp because the front rods are firmly held at the top and bottom to the frame.

author

Thank you

author
SilverEye2000 (author)2016-11-23

and wich nema 17 did you use?

author

NEMA17 42HS40-1504A05-D20

author

Sorry i cant find that type of steppermotor

About This Instructable

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Bio: I am an electronic systems engineer.
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