Introduction: 3d Printed RC Motorcycles: 2016 Ducati Draxter and 2016 Suzuki GSX-RR MotoGP

By: Brett Turnage



Motorcycle News




The Drive

Le Repaire des Motards

Project Jibril: This project consists of two 3d printed RC motorcycles: the 2016 Ducati Draxter Concept Drag Bike RC and the 2016 Suzuki GSX-RR MotoGP RC motorcycle. This project includes two bikes because the motorcycle world is very diverse. I hope that everyone can find one that appeals to them. Name sake: My friend Jibril is crazy about motorcycles, so this project was named after him as he was the inspiration for it. RC motorcycles are almost like black magic, the fact that they can ride and balance themselves is accomplished with gyroscopes (either passive or active), and kits like the Kyosho Hang on Rider brought realism by having a rider that actually moved. This project remakes that magic for the 3d world with two 2016 bikes that were designed not as chassis, but as the individual motorcycles with unique parts that aim to recreate the realism of the actual bike. Both the Ducati and Suzuki feature a 3d printed functional front fork, adjustable rear suspension, and drivetrain that translates power from gears to a belt drive system which turns the rear wheel. They stay upright by using a weighted front wheel which acts as a passive gyroscope, and both bikes have to option run either TPU 3d printed rear tires or a rubber F1 RC tires for better grip. This is just some of the beauty and engineering that went into the bikes, but in order to really make these motorcycles come to life, the rider has to move. The Rider which is a 3d wonder in its own right. It works by having a brain, backbone, and pelvis. The brain is a super tiny ultra micro servo which is located in the head of the rider. It attaches to the backbone that is a metal rod which runs through the body and is attached to the pelvis, translating the movement of the servo. More than just realism, The Rider steers the bike. The lower left arm is attached to the main servo, and it moves the arm forward and backwards. This movement turns the handlebars which steers the bike. When both bike and rider are married together, you get an amazing experience of two futuristic race bikes that were never available to the public with a rider who’s sitting on the bikes in the way an actual rider would. This project has taken me over 5-months of work, lots of iterations, multiple different bikes, many older versions that will never be released, and months of testing. These two bikes are the result of all of that hard work. I hope you enjoy it, I hope you are inspired by it, and I hope that in turn you inspire others. 1:12 scale

Filament used Solutech3d

Designed in Fusion 360

Sliced with Simplfiy3d

Wheel weight cut with Othermill Pro

Step 1: Download Files

Step 2: Ducati Body Overview

Parts Needed:

(1) Main Frame

(2) Bottom Fairing (L & R)

(2) Body Front (L & R)

(2) Body Rear (L & R)

(2) Engine Parts Silver (L & R)

(2) Engine Cover (L & R)

(2) Seat Brace (L & R)

(1) Hitec Servo HS225BB

(1) Racer’s Edge Hitec Servo Arm (1) 7200KV motor

(2) m2 x 8 screw

(2) m2 x 10 screw

(4) m2 nuts

(2) m2.5 screws and washers

(1) m3 x 10 screw

(1) Body Brace decoration

Use the guide above to assemble. First glue the pairs of each parts together, and then

1. First assemble the body front and then the body rear. Then attach. 2. Attach the seat braces.

3. Place in the Hitec HS225BB servo

4. Attach the main frame.

5. Glue the bottom fairings together.

6. Install motor into engine parts silver left with 2.5 screws and washers.

7. Tap bottom fairing front bolt hole on the rear post, and screw in m3 x 10 screw to attach the seat brace to the bottom fairing.

8. Place the ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) inside of the main frame, so that the fins of the

ESC are facing foward. Run all of your wiring out of the front.

9. Screw in the Engine Parts Silver with m2 x8, m2 x 10 screws, and m2 nuts.

10. Attach all decoration pieces: Engine Covers and Body Brace decoration with 5-minute epoxy.

Step 3: Ducati Feet Brace Assembly

Parts Required

(2) Fender Brace (Left and Right)

(2) Pedal Attachment (Right and Left)

(1) Feet Brace Bar

(2) Long 4.8mm ball studs (Losi B1444 Ball Stud Long & Shock Mounting Brace: MRC) (2) 2mm Spacer Set (3Racing 2mm Spacer Set M4WD-01/PK)


1. Drill the holes on the feet bar braces with a 2.5mm drill bit and tap the holes with a m3 x 0.5

2. Install a long 4.8mm ball studs with the 2mm spacer onto each feet brace.

3. Glue the assembly together as shown above with 5-minute epoxy.

4. Glue the completed feet brace assembly to the Seat Brace as shown above.

Step 4: Suzuki GSX-RR Body Overview

Parts Required:

(1) Turnigy 1000mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack HobbyKing RC Battery (dimensions 70 x 35 x 13mm) (2) Main Body (L and R)

(2) Front Fender (L and R)

(2) Rear Fender (L and R)

(2) Tank (L and R)

(2) Main Frame (L and R) ***Main frame L should be printed at 100% infill****

(1) Servo Holder

(1) Hitec Servo (HZS-225BB)

(1) Racer’s Edge Hitec Servo Arm

(1) Hot Racing SMLT4825 48p 25 teeth pinion gear

(1) 7200KV motor (GoolRC 2430 7200KV 4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 25A ESC) (1) 5 mm Diameter x 45 mm Long Shoulder

(2) M2.5 x 0.45 x 20 Long screw

(2) M2.5 x 0.45 x 25 long screw

(1) Metric Alloy Steel Dowel Pin, M5 Diameter, 28 mm Length

(1) Tight-Tolerance Shoulder Screw, 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Drive, 4 mm Diameter x 18

mm Long Shoulder

(2) M2.5 x 0.45 x 8 screws

(2) M2.5 washers

(1) 5-minute epoxy

(1) M2 x 0.45 tap

Use the guide above to assemble. First glue the pairs of each parts
together, and then assemble.


1. Glue both main frame sections to the servo holder with 5-minute epoxy. Place a screw in the rear swing arm hole to keep them aligned.

2. Glue rear fender onto the main frame assembly.

3. Glue tank assembly onto the main frame assembly and rear fender assembly..

4. Install motor using M2.5 x 8 screws and washers.

5. Use the M2 x 0.45 tap on the holes on the bottom of the servo holder.

6. Glue the Main body sections together

7. Glue the front fenders together and then glue them to the Main Body.

8. Place the battery into the Main body. Make sure it sits into the depression with the wires

hanging out towards the rear of the bike.

Step 5: Motor Specs

7200 KV motor. Any motor with these specifications will work.

24mm diameter canister. The lenght is 30mm long. 2mm shaft.

I used:

GoolRC 2430 7200KV 4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 25A Brushless ESC(Electric Speed Controller)for 1/16 1/18 RC Car Truck which can be found on Amazon.

Test the motor when you get it. Make sure that it spends freely. I had one that had a bad Electronic Speed Controller. If you have any problems return it for a replacement.

Step 6: Front Fork Assembly

Parts Needed:

(2) Shock Top

(2) 7/32 x 1 x .016” Compression Spring [C-552 Century Spring Corp.] (1) front fork

(2) Retaining Ring

(2) m4 x 26 dowel pin stainless

(2) front spindles (left and right)

silicone grease

5-minute epoxy

STEP 1: Layout Parts

Clean all holes with the appropriate drill bit to make sure they are the exact size needed and clear of debris.

Holes on bottom of front fork require m4 drill bit. Top of front fork requires m6 drill bit

Spindles m5 drill bit, m4 drill bit on top spindle holes Retaining Rings m4 drill bit

STEP 2: Slip Retaining Rings onto Dowel Pins

You want the retaining rings to be located on the top. Stand them up and affix them with 5- minute epoxy.

STEP 3: Slide the Dowels into the Front Fork

Retaining rings will ensure that the dowel pins stay inside of the assembly. Move the dowel pins up and down to make sure that they move smoothly.

STEP 4: Place grease inside the tubes

STEP 5: Install Springs

Slide the two springs down into the front fork.

STEP 6: Install Shock Tops

Before beginning, clean off the top of the front fork to remove any silicone that remains on the top of the front fork.

Place the Shock tops inside. Use 5-minute epoxy and bond them together.

You may need to use a bulldog clip to keep the shock tops affixed secure to the front forks while the epoxy is curing.

STEP 7: Install Spindles

Place 5-minute epoxy in the holes. Grip the dowel pins with pliers and press the spindles onto the dowel pins. Make sure that the spindles are installed on the correct side. It should like the picture above.


Parts Needed:

Assembled Front Fork

(1) Front Tire

(2) Wheel weights (A & B)

(1) Front Rim

(2) 6 x 10 x 4 bearings

(2) Aluminum Unthreaded Spacer, 8 mm OD, 2 mm Length, for M5 Screw Size (2)Aluminum Unthreaded Spacer, 8 mm OD, 6 mm Length, for M5 Screw Size (1)5 mm Diameter x 35 mm Long Shoulder bolt

(1) m5 nylock




STEP 1: Assemble tire

Tires are best made out of TPU flexible filament. Install the wheel weights into the tire first. Then press the rim inside of the tire.

STEP 2: Install Bearings

STEP 3: Install Front Rotors

Press front rotors on to either side of the front rim.

STEP 4: Install front rim

Using one spacers align the rim until it it centers in the front fork.

Insert 5 mm Diameter x 35 mm Long Shoulder bolt through the rim and secure with m5 nylock on the other side. Ensure that the wheel spins freely.

STEP 5: Install Front Fender

Place 5-minute epoxy on the front spindles, and install the front fender. Make sure that the front fender trailing edge is parallel to the front fork.

Step 8: Suzuki Specific Handlebars


Parts Needed:

(3) 4.5 ball stud with hex end


1. Install the three 4.3 ball studs into the handle bars


Parts Needed

(1) Metric Alloy Steel Dowel Pin, M5 Diameter, 28 mm Length Silicone Grease

STEP 1: Clean out the hole

With an m5 drill bit ensure that the hole on the front fork and bike’s mainframe are to the correct size and clear of debris.

STEP 2: Insert Grease in Mainframe

STEP 4: Align Parts

Place front fork onto mainframe.

STEP 5: Insert dowel pin

Press in with pliers.

Step 10: Ducati Rear Swing Arm Assembly

Parts Needed:

(1) Swing Arm

(1) Rear Fender (right)

(1) Atomic AMZ-AMZ001-GS grease shock (combine 2 springs)

(2) 5x10x4bearing

(1) 38 Tooth drive gear (3Racing SAK-D135)

(2) Drive gear adapter (Front and Rear)

(1) 5 x 40mm Shoulder bolt

(1) m4 nylock nut

(2) 4mm ball studs

(3) m3 x 10 screws

(3) m3 flat nuts

(1) 4 mm Diameter x 20 mm Long Shoulder, M3 x 0.5 mm Thread Size (2) m2.5 x 0.45mm thread, 20mm long screw

(1)8mm OD, 13mm Length, for m5 screw unthreaded spacer

(1) 8mm OD 2mm Length for M5 Screw unthreaded spacer


1. Bolt the Swing Arm and Rear Fender together.

2. Install bearing on either side of the swing arm hub hole. Press them in. (You may need to

clean the hole out with a m8 and m10 drill bit. Set the drill to reverse to only clean out the

holes, not to cut.

3. Assemble Grease shock. Use 2 springs by together so the coils are overlapped.

4. Install m4 ball stud and install grease shock onto the assembly.

Step 11: Suzuki Rear Swing Arm Assembly

Parts Needed:

(1) Swing Arm (either standard or for rubber tire) (2) Drive Gear Adapter (Front and Rear)

(2) 5 x 10 x 4 bearing

(1) Rear Fender

(1) 5mm Diameter x 50mm Long Shoulder bolt

(1) m4 nylock nut

(1) Associated FT Rear Aluminum Shock Kit Blue RC18T / FGX (2pcs)

(2) 4mm Ball Nuts

(2) Seat (L and R)

(1) Rear Seat Pad

(1) 38 tooth drive gear (3Racing SAK-D135)

(1) Tight-ToleranceShoulderScrew,18-8StainlessSteelSocketDrive,4mmDiameterx18

mm Long Shoulder

(1) m3 nylock nut

(2) 8mm OD, 2mm Length for M5 Screw Size Unthreaded Spacer


1. Install bearing on either side of the swing arm hub hole. Press them in. (You may need to
clean the hole out with a m8 and m10 drill bit. Set the drill to reverse to only clean out the holes, not to cut.

2. Assemble Associated Shock

3. Install m4 Ball stud and insert into the top hole of the shock.

4. Attach the shock to the rear seat mount, by either tapping the hole with an m3 x 0.5 tap or

drilling the hole and using a bolt.

5. Place the rear shock through the hole in the rear fender and glue with 5-minute epoxy.

6. Glue the Seat and Rear Seat to the rear fender.

7. Install an 4mm ball stud into the rear swing arm. It should be facing to the right.

8. Install the Rear Swing Arm into the motorcycle by inserting the 4mm Diameter x 18 mm

Long Shoulder bolt and fixing it with a m3 nylock nut.

9. Press the rear shock ball socket into the 4mm ball stud that is located on the rear swing arm

(adjust the rear shock to your desired rebound setting).


1. Assembly Rear Drive Gear as shown, use (3) m3 x 10 screws an nuts to secure the unit


Step 13: Ducati Rear Tire Assembly

Required Parts

(1) Rear Tire [TPU filament] (1) Rear Rim

Slip the tire over the rim.

STEP 1: Slide shoulder bolt into the rim

Place some 5-minute epoxy inside the rear rim before you slide the shoulder bolt inside. If you forget this step the rear wheel will not be fixed and it will not transfer the power from the motor to the ground.

STEP 2: Insert the shoulder bolt into the swing arm

Align the rim so that there is a small gap between the rear of the rim and the swing arm. You can use an m5 x 2 spacer.

STEP 3: Install the drive gear assembly onto the shoulder bolt

Do not affix yet with glue, wait until you install the belt in following steps, but when you are ready to make it permanently attached, use some 5-minute epoxy to stop the drive gear from spinning on the shoulder bolt.

Attach Rear Swing Arm Assembly to Body

Attach the entire rear assembly to the body by using 4 mm Diameter x 10 mm Long Shoulder,
M3 x 0.5 mm Thread Size

Step 14: Suzuki Rear Tire Assembly

Required Parts:

(1) Rear Tire [TPU filament] Rear Rim

(1) Rear Rim (either standard or for Rubber tire)

Slip the tire over the rim. For Rubber Tire use super glue.

STEP 1: Slide shoulder bolt into the rim

Place some 5-minute epoxy inside the rear rim before you slide the shoulder bolt inside. If you forget this step the rear wheel will not be fixed and it will not transfer the power from the motor to the ground.

STEP 2: Insert the shoulder bolt into the swing arm

Align the rim so that there is a small gap between the rear of the rim and the swing arm. You can use an m5 x 2 spacer.

STEP 3: Install the drive gear assembly onto the shoulder bolt

Do not affix yet with glue, wait until you install the belt in following steps, but when you are ready to make it permanently attached, use some 5-minute epoxy to stop the drive gear from spinning on the shoulder bolt.

STEP 4: Install the rear fender

With glue, attach the rear fender onto the opposite side of the 4mm ball stud that is located on the rear swing arm.

Step 15: Drivetrain Assembly

Required Parts:

(1) Spur gear Adapter

(1) 4mm x 14 shoulder bolt

(1) Aluminum center pulley T13

(2) 4 x 8 x 2.5 bearing

(1) 71 tooth 48 pitch Spur Gear

(2) m3 x 8 screws

(2) m3 washers

(1) Hot Racing SMLT4825 25 Tooth 48 Pitch Pinion Gear 2mm Bore (1) m4 washer

Spur Gear Assembly


Place some epoxy on the Aluminum Center pulley to stop it from spinning.

Attach the Spur Gear to the Spur Gear Adapter by screwing in the m3 screws and washers.

Place the second bearing on the shoulder bolt and install the Spur Gear Assembly to the Main frame.

Install Hot Racing SMLT4825 25 Tooth 48 Pitch Pinion Gear 2mm Bore onto the motor.

Step 16: Install Belt

Parts needed

BESTORQ 234-3M-15 3M Timing Belt, Rubber, 234 mm Outside Circumference, 15 mm Width, 3 mm Pitch, 78 Teeth

ARC R-11 belt tensioner

STEP 1: Cut the belt down to size

The belt needs to be 3-4mm. Measure and then cut wth a box cutter.

STEP 2: Install the belt STEP 3: Align the pulleys

Mark where the rear drive gear is on the shoulder bolt.

STEP 4: Affix the Rear Drive Gear Assembly with epoxy.

Use 5-minute epoxy and permanently install the Rear Drive Gear Assembly onto the shoulder bolt.

STEP 5: Re-install the belt

STEP 6: Install belt tensioner.

mount ARC R11 belt tensioner to the bottom of the swing arm. Use an extra bear in and longer bolt to make sure that belt does not jump off of the tensioner.

Step 17: Rider Assembly

Parts Required

(2) Helmet (Left and Right) (1) Body Bottom

(1) Body Top

(1) Pelvis

(1) Bottom Pivot

(1) vertebra

(1) M3 x 60 dowel pin

(1) m4 x 8 shoulder bolt

(1) 3 x 6 x 2.5 bearing

(1) Ultra micro servo (Hobby King HK-5320 Ultra-Micro Digital Servo 1.7g / 0.05sec / 0.075kg) (2) Shoulder (Left and Right)

(2) Lower arms (Left and Right)

(2) Thighs Inner (Left and Right)

(2) Thighs Outer (Left and Right)

(2) Lower Legs (Left and Right)

(1) Spare servo for wire (SG-90 or other expendable servo)

(6) 4.8mm Ball studs

(2) m2 x 10 screws

(2) m2 x 16 screws

STEP 1: Prepare Servo

1. cut the top wing mount off of the servo. It should be the one closest to the servo horn splines.

STEP 2: Cut the arm off of the servo horn

STEP 3: Make the remaining servo horn circle smooth

STEP 4: Attach vertebra to the servo horn

Use some 5-minute epoxy to make the servo horn circle and the vertebrate permanently bonded.

STEP 5: Put Bearing on Spine and Place the backbone Into the Body Bottom

1. Press the 3 x 6 x 2.5 bearing onto the dowel pin. It should be 24mm from one side. 2. Press the dowel pin and bearing into the bearing holder in the Body Bottom.

STEP 6: Attach Vertebrae to Spine

Use the 5-minute epoxy to clue the vertebra onto the m3 x 60 dowel pin.

STEP 7: Install Ball Studs in Shoulders and Lower Arms

Drill and tap the hole with a 2.5mm drill bit, and then tap with the m3 x 0.5 tap.

STEP 8: Join Shoulders and Lower Arms

STEP 9: Glue Inner and Outer Thighs together

STEP 10: Insert ball studs into Thighs

Drill and tap the hole with a 2.5mm drill bit, and then tap with the m3 x 0.5 tap.

STEP 11: Join Lower Legs and Thighs

STEP 12: Install Servo in Head

Drill and tap the holes in the head with a 1.6mm drill bit, and then tap with the m2 x 0.4 tap.

Using the 5-minute epoxy, place some glue in on the servo mount and attach it as shown in the picture.

STEP 13: Join Head sides with screws

Using the m2 x 10 screws, join the head sides together

STEP 14: Assemble Pelvis

Drill and tap the hole with a 2.5mm drill bit, and then tap with the m3 x 0.5 tap.

STEP 15: Install Bottom Pivot

Slide it on, and make permanent with 5-minute epoxy. The larger hole goes on the dowel pin.

STEP 16: Join Arms to Body Bottom

STEP 17: Attach Body Bottom and Body Top

1. Drill and tap the holes in the body top with a 1.6 mm drill bit, and then tap with the m2 x 0.4 tap.

2. Using the M2 x 16 screws, join the top and the bottom.

STEP 18: Attach legs to pelvis

STEP 19: Attach Head to Vertebra

The bottom pivot should be facing down in order to center the head on the body.

STEP 20: Join Upper and Lower Body

You may beed to tap the bottom pivot to allow the screw to go into the hole.

STEP 21: Extend Servo Wires

Cut the wire off of the expendable servo and extend the ultra servo wires via soldering.

Step 18: Attaching the Rider to the Motorcycle

Requires Parts:

(1) Feet brace Assembly for Ducati Draxter

(2) Foot pegs (Right and Left) for Suzuki

(2) 4.3mm ball stud with a hex end.

(2) Long 4.8mm ball studs (Losi B1444 Ball Stud Long & Shock Mounting Brace: MRC) (4) 2mm Spacer Set (3Racing 2mm Spacer Set M4WD-01/PK)

(1) TT02B Full Turnbuckle Set (For Ducati) (1) 4mm ball stud

5-minute epoxy


STEP 1: Attach the Footpegs to the Motorcycle.

Drill the hole with a m2.5 drill bit and Tap it with the m3 x 0.5 tap.

Attach two spacers to the long 4.8mm ball studs, and screw them into the hole on the Foot

Pegs for Suzuki or the the Feet Brace Assembly if not already done in the previous steps.

Epoxy the Suzuki Feet pegs to the body of the motorcycle as shown in the picture above.

STEP 2: Attaching ball stud to lower left arm.

B. Ducati Draxter and Suzuki

Install a 4mm ball stud and screw it into one of the holes in the servo arm.

Install the servo arm onto the servo.

Install a 4mm ball stud into the arm of the rider. You may need to drill with a 2.5mm drill bit

and a m3 x 0.5 tap.

(Ducati Draxter only) Using the TT02B Turnbuckle set, assemble a turnbuckle with one 3 x

32mm adjustable shafts and two plastic ball cups.

The finished linkage should have one ball cup facing the opposite direction as the other, so


Snap the linkage into the ball stud on the servo.

STEP 3: Attaching the Rider to the Motorcycle

A. Suzuki GSX-RR

Place the rider on the bicycle.

Attach the legs by snapping the feet onto the ball studs. Support the feet brace assembly

and use plies to prevent the assembly from breaking.

Using a wrench screw in the ball studs located in the hands of the rider into the handle bars of the front fork. Slowly screw it in.

Attach the servo arm into the servo and secure with the 2 screws that came with the servo arm.

B. Ducati Draxter

Drill the holes in the handle bars with a 2.5mm drill bit and tap then with the m3 x 0.5 tap. Be very careful in this step—a tip is to support the handle bar while you are tapping it. You can also skip this step by drilling the hole with a m3 drill bit and then epoxying the ball stud in

Snap the 4.3mm ball stud into the hands of the rider by pressing down.

Place the rider on the bicycle.

Attach the legs by snapping the feet onto the ball studs. Support the feet brace assembly

and use plies to prevent the assembly from breaking.

Using a wrench screw in the ball studs located in the hands of the rider into the handle bars of the front fork. Slowly screw it in.

Attach the ball cup from the steering linkage to the 4mm ball stud on the lower left arm of the rider.

Attach the servo arm into the servo and secure with the 2 screws that came with the servo arm.

Step 19: Suzuki Steering Linkage

Parts Needed:

(2) 4.3mm ball cups

(1) m3 x 16 set screw


1. Cut Ball Cups to Size.

2. Thread the Ball Cups and install m3 set screw.

3. Install Linkage on to Servo and onto the inner 4.3mm ball

4. Install the Riders hand onto to outer ball stud of on the
handle bar.


1. Take the spare servo and cut the wires off of it.

2. Cut the connector off of the ultra micro servo.

3. Solder the spare wire servo to the ultra micro servo’s wires. Use shrink tubes to seal the

connection. Coordinating the wire colors. (Black/Brown is Ground, Red is power, Yellow is


4. Run the wires through the body, down the neck and out the back by the hips.

5. Next, Cut the connector off of the both the lengthened ultra micro servo and the Hitec Servo

HS225BB and solder those wires together as well. Correlate the wire colors like before and use shrink tubes to seal the connection. This will make both the servo steering the motorcycle and the one in the head work in concert.



(1) 7200KV or equivalent 4 pole brushless motor

(1) 25A or equivalent ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) (1) Radio Transmitter and receiver


(1) 1000mAh battery for Suzuki GSX-RR like Turnigy 1000mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack with 70mm x 35mm x 13mm dimensions.

(2) 1000mAh battery for Ducati Draxter like Turnigy 1000mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack with 70mm x 35mm x 13mm dimensions.



The Battery for the Ducati fits underneath the bottom fairing with 3m automotive double stick
tape. The receiver mounts the Right Bottom fairing with 3m automotive double stick.





Servo, esc (blue finned thing), receiver, and battery.

1. Attach the servo to esc

(speed controller) in Ch1 with the black wire (ground) aiming in the direction that pictured. (Yellow/Signal facing to the left)

2. Attach the speed

controller (esc) to Ch2. Ground wire should be in the same position as previous wire.

Step 22: ESC Wire Adapter

AGNE11170A Align JST Female Connector

If you’re using the GoolRC electronics then you will need
to the AGNE11170A Align JST Female Connector to connect to the battery connector.

Step 23: Go Riding!!!!

Place on the roll one bars with double stick and go have some fun!

Step 24: How I Feel After Winning the Grand Prize in the Design Now: 3d Printing Contest 2016


The drone guy (author)2017-03-24

Has anyone scaled it up yet? That would be great. Congrats on the win!

brettt3 (author)The drone guy2017-03-24

I have a 1:8th version that I'm working on that will come out soon. Thanks for congrats!

Timothee Gillier (author)2017-03-27

this is awsome

RadostinS (author)2017-03-24

Nice project and the details of the Suzuki and biker and everything is awesome! I really like the fpv on the biker and the whole project. Congrats!

brettt3 (author)RadostinS2017-03-24

Thank you!

DorotaM (author)2017-02-19

God! This is SOOO alsome!

brettt3 (author)DorotaM2017-02-23


techno man (author)2017-02-02


brettt3 (author)techno man2017-02-02

Thank you!

ossum (author)2017-02-01

Congrats Brett, this was really a well deserved win, great job!

brettt3 (author)ossum2017-02-02

Thank you just found out. Congrats to you as well.

Honus (author)2017-01-31

This is freaking awesome!

brettt3 (author)Honus2017-01-31


WannaDuino (author)2017-01-28

Pro all the way.

amazing IBLE.

This is a PRO at work.

say no more.

brettt3 (author)WannaDuino2017-01-30

Thank you. that means a lot.

spacerase02 (author)2017-01-26

Thank you for producing this indestructible. I've been looking for some cad drawings to turn into body casings for an electric bike I'm building. Your design for an RC motor bike are exactly what I needed. I'll be scaling this up and the producing an instrucaionThe fullsized project.

chickeneater (author)spacerase022017-01-27

lol "indestructible" if that is a typo or not it definitely fits the bill when describing this instructable. Great job with the tutorial describing the process and the designs are AMAZING.

PS im trying to get a delta printer. Can you tell me which of yours you would say is better based on print size, price, and precision / accuracy?

brettt3 (author)chickeneater2017-01-27

Thanks lol.

Of my two delta's the smaller one gets the better prints, but better is just relative. Both get great prints, dimensional accuracy and I print at 1/128 microstepping, but I like the texture of the smaller delta's prints—it looks like brush strokes. The larger delta with a bed of 360mm with it's 400+ diagonal rods, there is a lot of room for vibration and that resonance/vibration in the machine shows in the print—they look more slick, with a sheen to it and ripples are prevalent. I can slow it down to erase the ripples, but I haven't bothered—that machine is built for doing big things so it's not that big of a deal.

The smaller delta is a Rostock based machine. It has 250mm diagonal rods, and it's prints look like paint. The Audi R18 was all made by that machine. My newest 3d printer, a Makerbot 2x that is completely rebuilt and is the subject of my Pinshape blog series "Six Million Dollar Makerbot" (Parts 2 and 3 are coming out next month) has been converted to use the same boards that the deltas use, but it gets comparable prints to the Rostock delta. The reason is that it is extremely rigid. So if you can, try to brace your delta with brackets to stop vibrations in the system. The smaller has bracing and even a weight attached to the bottom because the motors are up high. If you're not running higher micro stepping, consider it—deltas respond really well to higher micro stepping as well as the power of a 32-bit board.

For which to buy, I just don't believe that you need to pay more than $1200 for a 3d printer now days (FDM). The reason is that they are all the same thing. I've built all of my machines, even the Makerbot which is now completely rebuilt and using the same boards and software of my deltas, and they are all 3 axis CNC based machines, most use the exact same firmware, but the major difference in printers or print quality all comes down to your slicer that you use. Slicers are everything in 3d printing, a poor slicer will give crappy results versus a good slicer which will improve print quality hugely. So best slicers are Cura (free) and Simplify3d ($150).

The things I would look for in a printer is bed size 8" or 180mm-200mm bed size, all metal hotend, heated bed (very important), and a good controller board. All Delta's derive from the original delta 3d printer, The Rostock, and it's immediate successor, The Kossel. OpenBeam Kossel Pro is good, There are others, but it's really whether you want a fully built printer or a kit. For me when I build 3d printers the two must have as are Simplfiy3d as my slicer and a Bondtech extruder... These two things make my machines super reliable.

So hope this helps!

chickeneater (author)brettt32017-01-28

Thanks that is a huge help!

spacerase02 (author)chickeneater2017-01-28

Sorry. That was definitely a typo. Not too familiar with 3D printing and the equipment. I usually act as my fabrication unite working in composites. I've been thinking of using the plans some of the DIY fabrication unites I've found on this site scaling up the dimensions for my need It's definitely more affordable to go DIY if you like the challenge, which I do, and the resolution of the printer or milling cnc is basically what you design into your unit. There are some other great tutorials on building these DIY fabrication unites. Every thing including cncs, 3d printers, and vacuum formers. I agree this has been a great tutorial. Might I say a dynamite one.

brettt3 (author)spacerase022017-01-28

pretty cool... I'm a composites expert... (my website). Remember if you need the .step file, just ask.

brettt3 (author)spacerase022017-01-27

If you want the .step file just me know.

DougB53 (author)2017-01-26

I am buying a 3D printer just for this. Any suggestions on printer? GIXXER all the way.

brettt3 (author)DougB532017-01-27


There are quite few printers now day, they practically all do the same thing when concerning FDM or filament printers. It all really comes down to cost and whether you are mechanically familiar.

The New Matter printer I hear is very reliable, it cost around $400, but it has a small bed size, so that's an issue. The CTC 3d printer is a knockoff of my Makerbot 2x

It has a big bed and even uses the same Makerbot/Sailfish firmware.

And then there are the Delta's.

I have 4 printers: 2 Delta's, a Makerbot and an SLA printer. I think there is really is no reason to pay a ton of money for printer, $1000 or less is a good deal... If it was something like a personal CNC I'd recommend spending the money, but for 3d printers (consumer) it's all the same thing.

zposner (author)2017-01-26

It's so realistic I first thought it was a real motorcycle

brettt3 (author)zposner2017-01-27

thanks, means a lot! I tried my best to make it as realistic as possible.

Patrick_MG (author)2017-01-26

Amazing! Beautiful finish design and models! Congratulations, the RCs are very cool.

brettt3 (author)Patrick_MG2017-01-27


epistell (author)2017-01-26

Having raced AMA and WERA it's nice to see some radio controlled sports bikes with a rider that appears to be controlling the bike. I can definitely see some purists painting the riders to add some even greater and wicked realism. Guessing some RC company will jump on this in some way and place a rounded edged rubber rear tire on the bikes to provide better high speed cornering. Nicely done and all the best.

brettt3 made it! (author)epistell2017-01-26

Thanks! I was amazed how this challenge/build took off in the motorcycle community. It's been covered in ever motorcycle media website from, motorcycle news, to across the globe... France, Germany, Russia, UK, Thailand, South Korea, etc... it's been huge and super surprising. I think my favorite was getting covered in The Drive. It was a huge shock because it's insane that real motorcycle news outlets cared so much about two 3d printed RC motorcycles. For the 3d world, this was a first—these are the first RC 3d printed motorcycles. Having a movable rider was something I though was just insane to do, but something that I thought would be awesome to include—took a lot of work, but it worked out well.

There's a larger bike coming, a 1:8 version of the Suzuki which that uses off the shelf RC front fork, wheels and tires, and that one will be able to lean just like the real motorcycles. These current bikes, the Ducati and Suzuki, they are 1:12. The Suzuki can handle a 3d printed skinny rear wheel, but the Draxter is a drag bike, so the fat rubber tire or fat printed rear is in keeping with that bikes realism.

treyes4 (author)2017-01-26


brettt3 (author)treyes42017-01-26

Thank you!

Dui ni shuo de dui (author)2017-01-25

Wow, amazing 3D print, absolutely awesome!
Is the front fork able to handle the road imperfections? I would be worried that it would be the first thing to break.


Thanks! Showing the beauty of the actual print is a big think for me in my builds. The front forks handle great. In the videos, The Draxter flies like a bat out of hell (I hope to have a longer video today) and the Suzuki does donuts, and my street far from smooth—rocks, cracks, highs manhole cover and the occasional patch of grass—no issues with the front fork. Even when you swing the bike and it slide where the fork moves to 90 degrees—no issues. As long as it's printed at 100% you're fine, and as long as you insure the the front fork has good travel, it takes the bumps and handles just like a front fork should.

sw4p (author)2017-01-25

Details on this project is mind blowing...awesome man

brettt3 (author)sw4p2017-01-26


ossum (author)2017-01-22

Ah, my old competitor, Our RC's were in last year's 3D printing contest together too. I was worried you were going to post this here when I saw it on openRC, especially since it is so good that I am going to have to vote against myself ;-)

Mine is only coming out later today though, cutting it fine as always!

brettt3 (author)ossum2017-01-23

hahaahahahahhahahhahaaha! That made me laugh... Yah, timing. Had to drop it in and let it ride. Looking forward to seeing your new vehicle. How are the printers doing? I believe you have 2 now (the one you won last time and a Printrbot).

Make sure to post your new vehicle on the google group.

ossum (author)brettt32017-01-23

I'm sure it will do well, I am very impressed with your design. It has been getting some nice press coverage already, I think you did a good job of appealing to the non-RC and non-3D-printing crowds.

I actually still just have the CraftBot+, I told Brook I would wait for the RC-specific PrintrBot, which may or may not have been a mistake ;-)

The CraftBot has been great though. It has some irritating rattles but besides that it is an absolute workhorse, just pumping out print after print. Most of the time I don't even wait around to see the first layers going down, just stick in the USB and hit print.

I'll be sure to post in the group.

brettt3 (author)ossum2017-01-23

Yah, well you never know. Hopefully. I knew the bikes were going to be big, but it's been insane and it went viral in the motorcycle world—that was unexpected, but awesome. They were really blown away by the realism and of course the moving rider. It's been around the world from US, Korea, Germany, France, Thailand, Russia, the list keeps going on. Some of the news agencies write to me to tell me they covered it, so it's been pretty cool and I've been having to use Google Translate a lot. This project exceeded my wildest expectations, but I'm glad because it was the hardest 3d challenge that I've ever given myself—5 months of hard work and the rider was a month alone. I'm proud that the project transcended to people outside RC and 3d because projects like this can show people what the consumer 3d market can do for them, and hopefully people start taking the plunge into 3d. If your an engineer or fabricator its super valuable to have a printer. But I'm also glad that it pushes the boundaries for 3d printed RC vehicles.

I've spent the last 2 weeks pumping out updates as I added rubber f1 tires, but now all that's left is driving video. That's actually been really hard as were currently in the biggest storm of the decade for socal, so lots of rain days and correlating those days with my work schedule. Hoping to have the videos this week, and I'm also going to launch a larger 1:8 scale bike that uses off the shelf motorcycle rc parts for people who want to compete or race at the track versus other rc motorcycles.

That's good that your printer is doing well. I'm sure that Printrbot is still on the table. He seemed pretty excited to work with you. Glad your machine is a workhorse and is reliable. That's the most important thing in printing is having a machine that just pumps out prints and keeps going without major failures. You should try wifi printing if you get a chance. I'm a huge fan of it ever since I went unplugged. Great when you have multiple printers.

ossum (author)brettt32017-01-23

Its really great how much attention it has gotten. It's always a cool feeling to wake up to an interesting message from some corner of the world that you never expected your work to end up in.

I think the human element of yours is what really catches peoples imagination, especially folk who aren't in the RC hobby, they just don't expect to see a little dude who moves (unlike my 3 year old who gives me a hard time if I don't have an articulated driving figure in each RC)

The running videos are always a big chunk of effort, I look forward to seeing yours. Mine are also as-yet-unfilmed.

brettt3 (author)ossum2017-01-23

Saw the Jeep... looks amazing! I love your simulations in Fusion... I haven't gotten to that workspace yet. Have you messed with T-splines? That's the next task on my list... the next car with be build exclusively with t-splines.

Yah the moving rider was the drop the mic moment of this build. It was crazy all the engineering how to do it, but it came out good.

Just like you, running against a deadline is always something that we run up against which can mean that vids don't come out until later. I blew past 2 deadlines before they released. The final one was one that I had to keep so I totally understand.

ossum (author)brettt32017-01-23

I haven't tackled t-splines either, but I think I need to. I used a lot of lofting in my hot rod (and also that kayak) and kept running into issues when I tried to shell things.

I also have some plans to do a new car using the surface modelling tools more, we'll see how it comes out! Guess we'll be meeting here again next year :-P

The deadlines are a curse and a blessing, I find them motivating in that last 20% of a project when I am starting to get frustrated/bored with all the fiddly details, my mind is normally wandering away to new projects at that point.

I think I need to take some design tips from your rider into a driver for the jeep. Pity I can't get away with a helmet though, I seriously doubt my ability to model and paint a face! Perhaps he can just be a really nervous helmeted driver...

brettt3 (author)ossum2017-01-25

I think the T-splines will be something that will be good for our modeling.

Shelling can be an issue when things get complex. Sometimes you have to just go in and do it manually with offset and extrude in the modeling workspace. Sometimes I will just chop a complex part up an gut the insides if I cannot shell it with the tool.

Yah, if I have a car available I will always enter it, but I don't do so well in contests. It's always in the eye of the beholder. It's okay, I'm really concern about them, I'm out looking at the big picture of pushing 3d printing further.

I actually think you can pull off the body of the driver because I believed that I could not do it, and at first I believed that my motorcycle rider would be a stick figure, but I surprised myself. I have faith that you'll be able to come out with just as a realistic body/driver as I created. You'll surprise yourself.

About This Instructable




Bio: I am passionate about racing cars and racing technology. I build designs that hopefully shock and amaze the 3d printing world, in an attempt to ... More »
More by brettt3:Time Machine2016 Suzuki GSX-RR 1:8 Racing RC MotoGP Version 22016 Suzuki GSX-RR 1:8 Racing RC MotoGP
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