Having recently acquired a 3d printer, i quickly noticed that, despite calibrations, there were a few temperature-related problems.

The chief among them ws the amount of time the bed took to heat up, the room was not able to hold the temperature unless the doors were shut and the curtains pulled - this lead to another problem, I was overheating!

We also had problems with layer delamination on larger prints in ABS - something that could be solved by keeping the printer in a warmer environment.

I had a few "Lack" tables from IKEA laying about, and noticed that when stacked atop each other, the printer fit almost exactly inside, this gave me the idea to create an enclosure for the printer, how hard could it be?

Step 1: Parts, Consumables and Tools

After doing some research, I decided on a few things that I wanted for the enclosure

  • Transparent Windows on each side
  • Removable Door, rather than Hinged for ease of assembly
  • Extractor Fan to rapidly cool the environment
  • Voltage and Temperature Readings
  • Lighting
  • Mounts for the Controller Board, Pi and Power Supply on the back

With this in mind, I went online and purchased the parts I needed to buy, and grabbed the STLs for parts I could print


  • 2 IKEA Lack Tables
  • 4x Arcrylic Sheet 400x450x5mm
  • 12v LED Strip Lighting Reel
  • 120mm Computer Fan
  • 12v Digital Thermometer Display
  • 3-30v Digital Voltmeter Display
  • 2x Round Rocker Switches w/ LED
  • 8x Neodymium Magnet 10x3mm
  • 16x Corner Braces


  • Wood Glue
  • Epoxy Adhesive
  • Silicone Sealant
  • Wood Screws
  • Rubber Grommets
  • Various M3 and M4 Bolts & Nuts
  • Heatshrink Tube, Various Sizes
  • 12v Wires
  • Hot Glue
  • 4x Wooden Pins

Printed Parts

Many of the tools and much of the advice used in this build were provided by my loca Makerspace SoMakeIt Southampton.

<p>It took time but it turned out great! It wasn't fun taking apart the printer to route cables however. But I am <em style="">very</em> happy with the results!</p><p>I ended up designing my own brackets to attach the two tables together. I'll attach the STL here</p>
<p>How did you mount the controller to the underside?</p>
<p>Can you elaboarte at all on how you ran your cables? What you had to disconnect and whatnot?</p>
<p>my current IKEA tables is little bit diferent.</p><p>my internal distance between legs are 400X445 so now i have to cut 0,5cm excess plexiglass</p>
<p>you have to modify the materials / Acrylic Dimensions. the correct dimensions in order to fit exactly inside the inner of the legs is 400X445 NOT 400X450</p>
I used Ikea &quot;Fabrik&ouml;r&quot; for my delta printer enclosure. This is a metal/glas cabinet which looks quite nice.
<p>Hello,</p><p>How does the Fabrikator work for you? Did you have to drill holes to route the power cable? Any issues with overheating? I'm thinking about getting this cabinet. </p>
<p>Hello Martin. Sorry for the very late reply. Yes, I was drilling many holes at the bottom for the power cable and top cover. I had no issues with overheating. The opposite was the case: I sealed the glass windows with Silicone in order to keep the temperature higher inside the cabinet. </p>
<p>I am building this and adding a sainsmart digital relay board connected to my raspberry pi so I can control the fan(s) and lighting from the PI. I have some python scripts which can trigger the relays. These scripts will be triggered by commands I am adding to the OctoPi system menu. I have already added a wemo insight switch to power the printer on and off. I control the wemo through commands I have already added to the OctoPi system menu. The nice thing about the wemo insight switch is that it gives you information about how much power the printer uses. You can use this information to calculate the power cost of running the printer, which can be entered into the OctoPi cost addon, so you can have an accurate estimate of what each part you print actually cost you to produce. </p><p>I am also putting my cooling and venting fans in the bottom of the enclosure so I don't have to mount things on the acrylic panels. I will print enclosures for the thermometer and relay board do I can mount them, and the raspberry pi under the enclosure. </p><p>I have also seen other versions of this make that use extensions on the legs of the top table. This is to provide a little extra height to the enclosure since there may be issues with bumping into the top when you print tall objects otherwise. These builds seem a little complex with printed leg extensions and different size acrylic windows. I plan on using lengths of 2x4 mounted to the top of the bottom table to get this extra height. This solves a few issues, mo more concern about running into the bolts that connect the legs to the bottom table, and no need for larger acrylic windows. Stay tuned to see how this works out.</p>
<p>I think i may try this but maybe add a drawer feature to it so I can slide the printer out of the enclosure for easy access. The only thing will that I need extra long, or modular, cables. Thoughts?</p>
<p>Nice! Check out this enclosure solution on Kickstarter: https://goo.gl/M8EcAz</p>
<p>Here's mine. Ended up printing a few of the parts that were needed.</p><p>A lot more cables than one would think. Octopi, two lights, webcam, fan, power, .......</p>
<p>Im planning on using a raspberry pi for octoprint with my wanhao duplicator i3, do i need to purchase another raspberry pi for this? Or can I use the same one?</p>
<p>I made this enclosure and it is great! Even with the plexiglass sides it gets up to 42 C on the inside on its own in just 30 minutes. I added tape insulation on the top so maybe that helps some. </p><p>For the filament hole in the top, I made a slit on the bottom of the table for the filament to be able to move a bit easier and just a round hole at the top. The tables are essentially thick cardboard so there are 2 solid surfaces and corrugation between them. </p><p>I also made mine with hinges for the door. They are sort of a half hinge so the door is still removable if desired. The parts can be found here:</p><p>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1227270</p>
What size sheets are the acrylic in inches? Sorry if this is a dumb question! <br><br>Did you have to cut them at all?
What size sheets are the acrylic in inches? Sorry if this is a dumb question!
hi . guys what do you use as a buildpladte in your printes ?
<p>I am kind of surprised no one has mentioned the height issue with this. I like to work on my printer and get to it. 1 Table high seems a little on the short size. I have considered doing 3 tables, but have 0 ideas on what to put under the bottom 2. Any recommendations? I originally planned to put my filament box under them, but I think I want to hang my filament box above the printer and have the plastic pulled down. </p><p>Any thoughts? Looking to get it to atleast desk level. </p>
<p>Just my 2 cents, but I went to my local habitat for humanity thrift store and bought a bathroom vanity to set my printer on. That was four years ago, back when my crust old Solidoodle was my machine. What I'm going to do now is adapt this design to add the Lack table on top of the vanity cabinet. This will give me a ready made frame for plexi that I can adapt to the top of my cabinet.</p>
<p>I totally agree, putting the i3 on top of just 1 table puts it at a very awkward height for me and makes bed leveling a huge pain. And I like having the filament above the printer as well, but I've been experimenting with running the filament from underneath, but over the top bar of the printer so the filament doesn't come in at an awkward angle and it's worked just fine. <br><br>Other than that, I'm planning on keeping extra filament in a box under the lowest table, and tools (pliers, tweezers, glue sticks and works in progress) under the second table. <br><br>Anyone have a problem with the cable length for the control box though? I want to keep my control box outside of the enclosure so the circuits don't overheat, curious to see if anyone else has a problem with the control box being a tad bit too short to reach one table below? </p>
<p>Has anyone put their webcam for octoprint inside this case yet? </p><p>I like the time lapse stuff and being able to have remote view on it from my home automation dashboard. But was wondering if/how you were mounting your camera in the case?</p>
<p>Very nice enclosure/instructions. </p><p>I used this as &quot;inspiration for my built, with some modifications.<br>Many thanks fir this !!!</p>
<p>anyone tried this setup on a Wanhao - Duplicator i3 - V2 , will it fit ?</p>
<p>Im about to do that maybe this weekend :)</p>
<p>did the Wanhao - Duplicator i3 - V2 fit?</p>
<p>If you need to customize the height of the enclosure like i did I've made a remix of a previous object with openscad allowing you to enter your own heights.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1418719</p>
<p>Great Idea, will be doing it myself. What is the height space available inside? I have found a way of increasing if necessary.</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>The black tables are currently 7.99!</p>
<p>I'm looking at building this enclosure for my Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 but I'm worried about it fitting. Has anyone put this printer into this type of enclosure?</p>
<p>the printer the author was using in this very instructable is actually extremely similar to yours. It should fit just fine.</p>
<p>the printer the author was using in this very instructable is actually extremely similar to yours. It should fit just fine.</p>
<p>I wanted more space between the tables, so I made these spacers/leg retainers. If I printed them again I would make them 10mm shorter for perfectly square windows.<br>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1258633</p>
<p>Is your printer being vented directly into the room it's in? If so, you should think about running some dryer hose or similar to a window to vent outside, especially if printing with ABS!!</p>
<p>The fumes from ABS are not dangerous (but smells bad) during normal processing. However, Thermal Decomposition of ABS (overheating or trying to burn it) does produce some unpleasant fumes. Exposure of high concentrations of these vapors and fumes could cause nausea, drowsiness, and headache.<br>Source: ABS Material Safety Data Sheet <a href="http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/MSDS%20ABS.pdf" rel="nofollow"> http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/MSDS%20ABS...</a></p><p><br></p><p>TL;DR: Don't worry, ABS is pretty much harmless, just don't eat it. ;)</p>
Actually, it's not the fumes that you should be worried about (although I think it's pretty careless to call it &quot;harmless&quot;). Instead, proper ventilation should be in place to remove the ultrafine particulate matter that has be shown to be emitted when printing with both PLA and ABS (ABS produces much more due to the high temps):<br><br>http://3dprintingindustry.com/2013/07/29/ultrafine-particles-and-the-potential-risks-of-printing-without-ventilation/
<p>that article has no scientific merit. they basically compare it to an electric frying pan. do you cook food? then you produce &quot;dangerous nanoparticles&quot; ooooh! they also don't say what the nanoparticles are, they just say that they are present. then, they cross referenced to other research that says there might be dangerous stuff, but that doesn't prove that there is bad stuff</p><p>bad science</p>
<p>Can you add detail about the fan? Is the pi or temperature display controlling it?</p><p>I like the project, I'll make one for sure!</p>
<p>It's just wired from the Rocker Switch to Ground - so it's manually controlled.</p><p>Just a simple 120mm Computer fan - nothing special. You could wire it up to be controlled by the Pi, or the Thermometer if you can find one with fan control.</p>
<p>Great, thanks.</p>
<p>Very nice enclosure! However, I think that 40&ordm;C is a bit low for printing ABS. I've read that the recommended chamber temperature is around 60&ordm;C. Are you getting good results? No warping at all?</p>
<p>Good results so far! Only delamination was when the y-belt slipped and introduced quite an extreme overhang.</p><p>40* was on a 1-hr print, longer prints the temperature has been rising, highest I've seen is 48* - not perfect, but a lot better than room temperature!</p>
<p> Nice one Shaun - great first addition to the So Make It group and I genuinely think its a brilliantly simple bit of up-cycling, I will be building one as I want to run my printer in the conservatory of an evening, and it will not look out of place one bit :)</p><p> Although, I just registered a max temp of 47 Celcius in the room today, so I need to think about where to store it (or just make everthing in ABS!)</p>
<p>Printing ABS the inside of the enclosure seems to stabilise at around 42c - that's with a 90c bed and 230c hotend. Temp of the room was about 24c having the window open didn't seem to affect the temperature inside the enclosure at all, which is a relief</p><p>When you build yours, let me know, I have a few extra magnets spare from this one I'd be happy to donate.</p>
Nice! That looks good enough to keep in the living room.
<p>I am going to make this my winter project this year as I love Ikea and my PrintrBot Jr V1.2 could use a nice home. Great job! Thanks for making this!</p>
<p>I already thought I recognised those tables, last time I saw them being used they looked <em>slightly</em> different though: https://www.instructables.com/id/Sliced-LACK-table/ . The variations seem endless :)</p>
<p>This is a great use for a couple of lack tables. Nice work!</p>

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