Introduction: 3d Printed Dual Laser Ornamental Iron Yard Decoration

Doesn't look like a Laser?

That's the point.

Welcome to my build. It's a 3d printing of a mock ornamental iron decorative lawn or house ornament.

The secret are the two lasers that are embedded.

You can 3d print this ornament without the lasers for a yard decoration or go all the way and make a stealthy lawn ornament.

The laser project part is to be used with another project here on instructables. Simply search here on Instructables for "Stealthy Dual Laser Perimeter Security Receiver for 3d Printing", that's a long title.

In this tutorial I will show you how to put this project together. This project consists of two parts, the assembly of the ornamental iron fixture and the laser circuitry if you decide to proceed down that path. (All of the 3d files you need to build are on the following pages)

Let's get started....

(produced by Charles Roberts romeothecla@yahoo.com, feel free to inquire with questions and comments)

Step 1: Basic Info Before We Get Started

Before we get started there is some info you should be aware of:

1st check with your local ordinances concerning lasers and the use of them.

2nd this device is to be used in accordance of all laws governing lasers and use thereof.

3rd I take no responsibility for the outcome of your build.

4th, I use toy lasers not powerful lasers and they work fine.

5th if you choose to make changes to this instructable you do so at your own discretion and I assume no liability for any portion of this build.

Okay, now that that is taken care of here is some real info about the files and the building of this lawn ornament.

You will need some minor electronics experience like being able to solder wires and connect basic electronic components.

You will need access to a 3d printer or a 3d printing company.

If you can handle the above then let's proceed....

*The futuristic city pic above is actually an image from inside the laser holder looking up and out toward a mounting nut that is part of the scroll component.

Step 2: 3d Printed Ornametal Iron Lawn Ornament With Stealty Laser Security

(All of the 3d files you need to build are on the following pages)

First, I will show you how to put the scroll work together without the lasers.

Second, I will show you the all of the electronics that go into creating the laser portion.

Third, I will list all of the part numbers and explain how this circuit will go together.

Fourth, I will provide a circuit diagram with a representation of where the parts go

Fifth, I will show you how to connect the connections and where to mount the parts in the box

Sixth, we will wrap up the build and I will explain how to use this project

NOTE: You don't have to install the lasers as the lawn ornament itself can be printed and simply screwed together and mounted using your 3d Printed mounts and caps provided on the next part of this instructable.

Also, If you print the front of the body part scrolls, you can use the laser holes as screw holes to mount to the corners of your home. By printing additional scrolls, the additional scrolls will keep the ornamental iron theme going throughout your yard to make your build with the lasers look even more inconspicuous. By doing this an intruder would have to guess which one has lasers especially if they've seen this tutorial and then see this project in your yard.

Run on sentences are included free with this project :) (made by Charles Roberts, romeothecla@yahoo.com )

Step 3: 3d Printing Parts List and Files

Please download the following 3d printing stl files

File Details:

These were created in millimeters, so make sure you printer software is set to millimeters not inches.

As far as the scroll work, if you print the whole scroll with medallion, it may not fit on your printer, so I've cut them in half and made clips, so you can print this project on smaller printers. These smaller files will be found on the next couple of pages, don't worry, I've got your back.

If your not familiar with stl files, you can download a program on Netfabb.com and download netfabb basic. This will allow you to view these files.

Print the following if you have a larger printer:

Scroll Front With Medallion.stl

Scroll Back with medallion.stl

Spacer need two of these.stl

Threaded nut normal.stl (you may want to print some extras of these, the walls are thin, but they work)

Threaded Tube.stl

top mount cap.stl

top mounting frame.stl

bottom mount cap.stl

bottom mounting frame.stl

mounting frame.stl (contains both parts in one file)

More 3d printing parts on the next page (by Charles Roberts romeothecla@yahoo.com)

Step 4: Additional 3d Printing Stl Files to Complete Project

Here are additional 3d printing stl files to finish this project:

mounting spacer.stl (print a couple of these)

resize4 normal threaded tube.stl (resized for easier fit), walls are thin on nuts that go over these tubes

resize4 reverse threaded tube.stl (resized for easier fit), walls are thin on nuts that these tubes go into

reverse threaded nut.stl

Battery Tube.stl (you should print this and put it in model even if using as only an ornament to help fill in gaps)

Now for those of you that own a less endowed 3d printer.

Find the sliced scroll files on proceeding page

(produced by Charles Roberts romeothecla@yahoo.com)

Step 5: Stl Files for Those With a Smaller 3d Print Area

If you already printed all of your parts with a larger printer move to the following page these instructions are not needed.

If your printer cannot print the large scrolls, I've cut them in half and you will need these additional files in lieu of the front scroll and back scroll from the previous pages.

Notice in pictures above, the amount of support material is quite heavy, it seems to print well at 20% fill for support.

Video attached for reference.

front scroll top.stl

back scroll bottom.stl

back scroll top.stl

front scroll bottom.stl

I've include a bottom scroll for use with my other project if you decide to use this ornament for use with that project. It's included here named bottom scroll rev2.stl. I will be making a receiving unit circuit that will allow you to send and receive using these scrolls, coming soon.

clips redone.stl (to connect the two halves together) print in mm not inches.

Before proceeding, you need to assemble the front scroll pieces together top and bottom with the clips. See image above on how to do this.

Do the same with the back scroll parts.

Great, now that you have all of your files we can get to the first step.

Step 6: Putting the Lawn Ornament Together Without Lasers

First Step,

Now that you have all of your 3d parts printed, we are ready for assembly.

We will take the larger scroll parts and put them together with the medallions facing out.

This is the assembly of just the ornament without the laser circuitry, those instructions will be on the following pages.

The front and back scroll work will have four holes, front scroll having four holes by edges that go through the part, the back scroll work, will not have these holes all the way, but will have screw holes internally, that are viewable on opposing side of the medallion.

Step 1. Marry front and back scroll parts together with four screws. (pic above)

Step 2. Take your two threaded tubes one reverse threaded and put them into the nuts on the top and bottom of the scrolls. (pic above)

Step 3. Take a spacer and put it on the top threaded tube you just put into the nut. (see pic above)

Step 4. Grab your top mount and place it on top of the spacer and grab one of the normal threaded nuts and spacer and place it over the threaded nut.

Step 5. Place your top mount cap onto the threaded tube.

Congratulations now half of the work is done.

Mount your mounting frame to the location you wish to mount your ornament.

Now it's time for the bottom mount, get a level and position your mount then repeat steps 3 through 5 for the bottom. Mount your mounts to a wall by turning your scrolls to get better access.

Congratulations, you have now assembled your first 3d printed ornamental iron yard decoration.

Hope you've enjoyed this build. Leave comments below.

(produced by Charles Roberts romeothecla@yahoo.com)

For those that wish for the more clandestine stealthy build continue onto the next step....

Step 7: Now Onto the Circuitry and Electronics

Very Cool build so far, hope you liked it.

But now to go even further...

You will need a soldering iron, some lasers from ebay or amazon like the ones pictured above, a 4.5 dcv power supply, a dc jack, and an on/off switch.

This is a simple parallel circuit and you should have no problem creating this.

Parts are listed here:

From Radioshack: toggle switch 2750634, power jack 2741583 you can go to their site and put these numbers in their search and they will pop up. I've found the stores to carry them in their slide out drawers.

From Amazon: Search 4.5v power adapter in electronics and look closely at the jack so it matches yours, the ones I received had the correct jack size but even included a reducer. Get the lasers from Amazon as well, they are the WYHP mini laser 6mm 5 volt.

Grab a couple pieces of dc wire that is capable of handling this voltage and were off to the races...

(produced by Charles Roberts romeothecla@yahoo.com)

Step 8: Connecting the Parts Together

Follow the basic circuit above for connecting your parts. If you are using this in conjunction with my other project print the scroll halves and use the bottom scroll that has a secondary hole for a laser that is 36 mm above the bottom hole that the diagram shows above, mount your laser in this hole instead of the hole that the diagram shows. The diagram is for the laser mount for a receiving scroll that has a secondary scroll with a receiving photocell in it. That circuit will be posted soon.

The lasers will mount on the side without the battery holder, tabs and tube.

The switch and power jack will mount on the other scroll. Their is a hole provided for the jack. It is a little small for the dc adapter, but can be enlarged with a drill, and you will have to cram it in as the space is really tight, have patience as third part of the project does require a little ingenuity with the electronics. This project is suppose to be as inconspicuous as possible so I didn't want the center to look like a normal box of electronics, so be aware of the tightness of the parts. Also, the switch cannot be set opposite the laser on the large print as the two interfere, so I drilled a hole next to it. The laser holes are tight as the plastic shrinks when drying, but with a drill bit you can ream the hole enough, but be careful not to make the hole too big. (see images above)

The power switch mounts in the hole opposite the laser in the other scroll. It comes with hardware provided by the manufacturer of the switch. This will work on the larger scroll and the switch mounts next to the battery tab. If there is interference with the opposing laser hole on the other side, you clan clip it out with hobby cutters. The switch fits nice and snug. The inner hole lip can be cut down to your desired switch depth.

Reference pictures are provided above for your preview.

Step 9: More Advanced

This is for Battery Tube and part connections if you wish to mount a battery.

I have provided in this tutorial an stl file for 3 double A batteries to be mounted in series in a tube.

These voltages add up to 4.5V dc.

You can choose to use both battery and power jack at the same time provide you mount it correctly. The internal build area is really tight and you will have to do some modifications with a hobby cutting tool of some of the internal plastic, but it can all fit inside. The batteries along with tube are really tight, but it does all screw together, the battery tube may split along some seams, but just pull this part off so batteries go inside better, see previous page images, also make sure your batteries are facing the build plate not on the side of the unit, as the holes on the side are covered by the battery tube.

The power jack that is on the previous pages has a normally closed switch contact so that when you plug it in, it disconnects the battery voltage to the lasers

This allows you to use dc from an alternate power source.

Look at package back on how to wire this.

If you look at the pictures above, you will see two tabs, this is where you can mount can and put it in these slots.

You will then solder connections to the can leaving a tab or spring soldered on the bottom one so it applies pressure to your batteries. These will be wired between the power jack and the switch.

(Produced by Charles Roberts romeothecla@yahoo.com)

Step 10: Wall Mount

You can mount this 3d printed scroll directly onto your home without the lasers by using the laser holes as screw mounts, you will have to slice off battery tubes in back.

Step 11: It's a Wrap

How to use:

By mounting the top first, and letting the mount hang on one screw, you let gravity pull it straight down before tightening. You can also use a level.

Make sure you aim it toward the thermometer. You can use a piece of cardboard to help and may need a second person to assist with this part. Once aimed at the thermometer or other receiving unit, coming soon, you can turn on the thermometer, it will beep, but all you have to do is press the reset button, it may have to be depressed for a couple of seconds before resetting. Adjust photocells in the thermometer receiver to your liking, you can either have one laser trigger alarm by adjusting on/off switch (laser tuner) to the left to lessen resistance, which will allow one laser to trigger alarm, or turn it to the right to increase resistance which will make the alarm trigger only when both lasers are broke . It can be a little frustrating, but with a little patience you should have a nice functioning unit.

You can set this system to be auto on and off using a Wink System or other automated timer. Just make sure the lasers are scheduled to come on first. You may have to resolve the reset button as this may be an issue on this type of system.

Once positioned, leave the laser on, and turn on the thermometer, Click Here to open other file in new tab.

Thank You for looking at my tutorial, hopefully you've been able to print this and assemble it hassle free.

I've tried to make it as easy as possible and your feedback will help others achieve great results.

(produced by Charles Roberts romeothecla@yahoo.com)

Comments

author
DianaA3 made it!(author)2015-06-23

Saw and held a printed version of the item and loved it.

author
RomeoThecla made it!(author)2015-06-24

Glad you like it.

author
DarrenA2 made it!(author)2015-06-20

Awesome little print, the clips I flipped 90 Degrees to fit better because they were really tight. Thanks, I love it.

2015-06-19 18.51.36.jpg2015-06-20 19.57.09.jpg2015-06-20 19.56.20.jpg
author
RomeoThecla made it!(author)2015-06-22

Cool, glad you like it

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