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When I got into electrical circuits and solar power the first thing I wanted to do was build a little solar powered battery charger.  Only I had a heck of a time trying to find a simple and strait forward guide to doing this.  

So in this guide I'll give you a bit of info on solar power and battery charging, as well as show you how to make a solar battery charger for all of $4.

If you'd like some solar panels or solar kits I have quite a few on my gadget site, browndoggadgets.com or you can also buy them off ebay or various other websites.
 
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Step 1: What You Need

To build a solar battery charger you need several things, as well as have several tools on hand.

Parts
A clear, water-proof container.  (Dollar Store tupperware with built in O-Ring)  
AA Battery Holder (Radio Shack, also fits AAAs if you're careful)
One or Two Solar Panels rated 4 Volts or above
Blocking Diode (Radio Shack, or buy 100 for $1 off eBay.)

Tools you need
Soldering Iron
Solder
Tape
Safety Goggles
Some wire

Time: 20-30 minutes

Difficulty: Easy
JCG5 says: Feb 2, 2013. 10:03 AM
On my battery clip I have a toggle switch. When I have the solar panel charging the batteries, do I leave the switch on or off?
Fashiondez says: Oct 14, 2012. 1:32 PM
Is it okay if I want to hook my two 4.5v 80mAs in a series for just two batteries, to make it more powerful?
GeoGyrl says: Feb 12, 2012. 9:32 AM
I am doing some research that requires about 300 AA batteries in a village with no electricity. I want to use the eneloop 2000 as it seems like they will last a long time and also recharge a lot of times. I decided to make solar chargers because $30 each for 30 chargers ON TOP of the battery costs is tough. I'll be right near the equator so sun isn't an issue. Been reading what I can, but what would you EXPERTS recommend to charge 4 AA batteries in about 8 hours? I'm guessing over 6V panel but what ma? I'm thinking of training women to make these little chargers for batteries and cellphones so trying to figure out how to solder without electricity. MAYBE can use butane if I can find a can in the city to recharge the cartridge. I leave in less than three weeks so any help would be appreciated.
hendrosutono in reply to GeoGyrlJul 26, 2012. 8:54 AM
For soldering u can use any kine of metal with sharp tip... Heated with any kind of heat source, fire from wood chips would work, nor biogas, kerosene stove, alcohol burner and many more....
Dbaby66 in reply to GeoGyrlMar 29, 2012. 12:12 PM
They can also use butane, mine just uses lighter fluid
Dbaby66 in reply to GeoGyrlMar 29, 2012. 12:11 PM
You can find solder guns that use gas to burn. I have one. They are portable and use lighter fluid. You can find them on ebay pretty cheap.
Billybob101 in reply to Dbaby66Apr 15, 2012. 5:01 AM
You can get some that you actually put a lighter in. Thats a lot easier than trying to find lighter fluid
Dbaby66 in reply to Billybob101Apr 15, 2012. 7:18 AM
I will be finding on of those because that is way easier. Thanks.
GeoGyrl in reply to Dbaby66Mar 30, 2012. 9:10 AM
It was difficult to find small containers of butane over there in Uganda and I couldn't take them on the plane so I bought battery powered soldering irons that used 4 AA batteries and they worked just fine. They aren't using them a lot, just a couple of connections. I was able to get solar panels and battery holders cheap and used eneloop rechargable batteries and it went great. Thanks for your ideas!
Fashiondez says: Apr 13, 2012. 6:43 PM
will two 4.5v solar cells be able to efficiently charger four AAs? Or is it best to stay with just 2 AAs for that?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to FashiondezApr 14, 2012. 11:13 AM
4 AAs equals 5V, so two of the 4.5V cells should work just fine.
bigjohn1a says: Feb 3, 2012. 10:53 PM
Great project! I

'm now having a problem figuring out how to rig one of these up to charge 4AA's that are connected to 8 LED's and have a dusk to dawn circuit. I have 2 panels that are 4.5 volts +/-, 3.2 volt-20ma Amber LED's, but no charging circuit. I think it's best in the long run to have a full charging circuit for this project. Do you think I am correct? I also don't have a properly configured dusk to dawn circuit. Any idea's? Any help would be great. Thanks.
GyroGearLoose47 says: Jan 29, 2012. 10:45 AM
Well, Sir: I think teachers should get a lot more respect, hence the Sir or Maam as appropriate. Anyone who masters E=I X R,and all its permutations can cut a wider swath through life. My jack of many trades abilities place me well below those of the proffesionals. Still, I am happy with where I am at. I really do think that little electronics equation is way more practical than most others. E = MCsquard is way less important for practical applications. Master those five little symbols and everything about them, there is no telling how far one can go. Thanks for your effort.
naturefreak says: Dec 26, 2011. 8:05 AM
Will a small led work as a blocking diode ?
kz1o says: Feb 6, 2011. 12:29 PM
It's worth mentioning that the "mah" unit you are mentioning is for the battery, and not for the charger. It's like the difference between "kilowatt hours", and "kilowatt". The first one might be how much energy a light bulb uses in a month, and the second one is just how much the light bulb uses. Some people compare this to a hose filling up a bucket with water. The size of the hose is how fast the water can go into it, and the size of the bucket is how much water it holds. Think of how many hose-seconds it takes to fill up a bucket.

Your charger circuit here will have the desired effect, and for the batteries you mention, the issues with milliamps should not be a concern. The kind of series (blocking) diode is not a big deal either, since the forward drop will not matter. You may use any garden variety silicon diode, and worst case is that the diode will fail (without damaging anything else) and you are out a penny. Just be sure to pick a diode that will allow the max current from the solar cell, in your case, 80 mA, which is 0.08 Amps.

Good luck, and always, safety first. It's a great habit to have.
DualPhase in reply to kz1oOct 27, 2011. 9:37 PM
"Hose-seconds", lol. great example. Will ANY diode work, zener included? Are there any benefits of one over another?
ac-dc in reply to kz1oFeb 7, 2011. 4:07 PM
Actually the diode type used does matter. For example if you are charging 2 x NiMH cells in series you will reach a peak charge voltage of approximately 2.9V as 1.45V/cell, BUT we have to consider the sum nominal cell voltage over most of its recharge cycle, 2.4V as 1.2V/cell.

Now, if you have a silicone diode with about 0.6V forward drop, you have to produce 3V. If you have a schottky diode with 0.3V drop you only need to produce 2.7V.

3/2.7 = 1.11, an 11% efficiency increase. More importantly, during periods of less sunlight your cells may not even be able to get the voltage up to 3V at a meaningful charge current so that extra 0.3V margin could allow for charging for more hours per day too.
kz1o in reply to ac-dcFeb 8, 2011. 6:07 AM
You are right. My comment was made based on the statement made in the original post:

"One or Two Solar Panels rated 4 Volts or above"

If the 4-volt requirement is no longer true, then yes, it does matter.

JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to kz1oFeb 6, 2011. 1:53 PM
Oh goodness. I can't believe I made that mistake. D'oh!

I really shouldn't be writing instructables at 1 a.m. anymore.

Thanks!
kz1o in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 3:02 PM
I disagree! Write them whenever you feel the motivation.... those creative juices flow at the most insane times of day or night, that is for sure.

The biggest tragedy would be for someone to have a great idea and not share it.
Vinsu in reply to kz1oMar 27, 2011. 12:20 PM
Good instructable, JoshuaZimmerman! Nothing to do with this one but I guess that I'm one of those people that doesn't have guts to comment if something is annoying me. Don't know if it's a bad thing not to comment everything that comes into my mind because most of those disrespectful things are not constructive at all. I find it that myself should not say anything if it isn't "nice" or constructive. "How many usb-resistor-led-things do we need?"-comments are the ones that are the most hard to not to write when I feel the motivation... Flew! Glad got that out of my system. :)
techno guy says: Feb 18, 2011. 8:06 AM
Why hook them up in parallel? Wouldnt it be better in sieries?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to techno guyFeb 19, 2011. 2:46 PM
Hooking the up in a Series would double the voltage. 4.5 + 4.5 = 9 volt, but keeping the current the same at 80 am.

Hooking up in Parallel will double the current, 80 ma + 80 ma = 180 ma, but keep the voltage at 4.5 volts.

It works the same for any power source. Try and imagine the solar panels as big barrels of water. In a series the two barrels of water are hooked up one on top of the other. They have twice as much water pressure source, but can only squeeze 80 ma of water out at a time through the one pipe.

In parallel you have the who barrels side by side, each pumping out 80 ma of water, doubling the amount of water coming out, but only one barrels worth of pressure.
NiKiToS in reply to JoshuaZimmermanMay 24, 2011. 9:54 AM
This is the best explanation I have ever heard,.. truly genius,
just a quick question though, I have 5 solar cells, 2V 50mA each, I want 6 volts and 100mA I worked out how to do 2 in parallel and two in series, but I'm not sure where to stick the fifth one to increase the voltage.
bladefun in reply to NiKiToSOct 12, 2011. 4:31 AM
you would put it in parallel with the series of the other 4 solar cells
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to NiKiToSMay 24, 2011. 11:01 AM
To be honest, I'm not sure either. I'm pretty sure the most you're going to be able to do is 4V @ 100 ma. That extra one will limit the other two sets.

A solar panel is only as good as the least powerful cell. Which is why a single leaf falling on a solar panel can really mess up your output.
tomx63 says: Oct 7, 2011. 12:36 PM
Great instructable, Joshua!
cloud_bam says: Sep 7, 2011. 10:01 PM
Ok so I have a question. I ask because I am a total amateur in electronics. So you mention that you don't want to charge the batteries at more that 1/10th of the capacity and that is something I have seen in a few places. But what about voltage?

Say we have two AA batteries in series Then wired in parallel to another set.

That's about 2.4-2.8v at like...4000Mah.
What if we used a cell that is 6v @330Mah? The Mah is cool but what about voltage? If anybody could help I would be really grateful.
tomx63 in reply to cloud_bamOct 7, 2011. 12:26 PM
hey cloud_bam, the charge voltage must exceed the total full chare voltage of the batteries. the charge current is the most important factor though. keeping the charge current close to 10% of the batteries mAh rating. your example of using a 6v/330mA solar cell for the 4000mAh batteries should do a decent job for a trickle charge.
rumplesnitz says: Feb 6, 2011. 7:23 AM
My application would be for charging a deep cycle marine battery to run a trolling motor on a 12/14 ft john boat while I crappie fish in smaller creeks and ponds. Lotsa sunshine, not much demand, lotsa time to enable a trickle charge to get the job done. But I don't have the G-2 to adjust the components for the bigger battery.

I picture the battery being inside the tub to minimize weathering over time, with the battery cables to the motor running out the side of the tub... whatcha thank about that?
Barbwire620 in reply to rumplesnitzMay 9, 2011. 8:23 PM
You can buy a solar 12 volt battery maintainer from Home Depot for around 16 dollars, made by Sunforceproducts.com. I bought one to do just that. You have to waterproof it for outdoor use, but they tell you how to do that too. I take an extra cheap battery with me and have it charging while I use the other one. That way I have one charged at all times. The only drawback is that it has to be facing the sun directly before it is in charging mode. If you are handy, you can make a mount that will swivel so you can keep it adjusted. Hope this is an easy solution for you. It would also be a good source for some other solar panel needs. I saw an ad in
TSC book where a man actually used some of them to change his tractor over to an electric solar power engine and he said he had more power than the original engine. I want an idea of how to make an electric engine for my lawn mower that I could run that way.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to rumplesnitzFeb 6, 2011. 9:34 AM
You'd need a much much bigger setup. To power your marine battery you'd need a solar setup that could charge at 12 volts. A system like that can be easily found and setup for under $100.

But directly powering your motor would be tough as I doubt the solar panel could put out the amps you need to drive the motor.

Also, because you're dealing with a much much bigger system you would need a power controller. It's a little box that makes sure the solar panel isn't providing too much, or too little, power. Those are rather cheap off eBay.

Again, you're looking at between $50-100 worth of setup for such a system. Not bad really.
rumplesnitz in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 1:31 PM
This is great info. Of course I'm not trying to power the motor with the charger - just to trickle-charge the battery as I sit out on the pond so I know I have power to get back to camp at the end of the day or at least a little more battery than I would have without the trickle. I putter out onto the pond initially relying on the battery to be charged and run the motor. Then I sit in the sun without the motor running, maybe use the battery to pump a little leakage water out of the boat once in a while, maybe putter back over to a different spot or back against the wind after drifting away from a good spot. But mostly just sitting and fishing. Of course space is at a premium on a small boat like mine, so the battery sitting in the tub the charging equipment is mounted to seems like a great concept. Would I have to worry about 'the ripple effect' shortening the battery life?
ac-dc in reply to rumplesnitzFeb 7, 2011. 4:13 PM
You do realize the panel area you need will be several square feet to make any significant difference in a few hours out in the boat? You can find something like that for $100, but in a small boat you will need a mast + roof type arrangement to hold it overhead, adding to the cost. It could help keep you from getting a sunburn though... ;)
nerys in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 12:38 PM
but not with much capacity. to get enough solar capacity to apply a reasoanble "charge" to your trolling battery your looking at $240 to $300

sometimes you can get close to $200 on sale for example

http://www.harborfreight.com/45-watt-solar-panel-kit-90599.html

thats 45 watts. not much power but would put a measurable charge back into your battery. assuming a 50 amp hour deep cycle you need 650watts for a full charge so this panel "could" in ideal conditions recharge it fully in about 14 hours of GOOD FULL broad day light sunlight.

so if you were fishing for say 5 hours you could replace 1/3 of your battery capacity.

use TWO of those panels and you have something more usable. you go go till your battery dies in the morning fish for 8 hours and have a fully charged battery to get home with IF you had good broad daylight sunlight AND you tilted the panel TO the sun in the morning and toward evening to catch the most light.
Sounds4cc in reply to nerysFeb 8, 2011. 5:56 AM
I've seen the solar panels at HF. They are of the older technology (usually black in color) and take a lot of space for the given power. The newer technology ones are more compact for the same wattage. You might have to dish out more $ though. But for your boat, you could mount them above your motor using PVC or aluminum brackets. I would recommend 2 x 10-20 watt panels AND a voltage regulator. I've been near a battery that overcharged, the explosion was not much fun. Also you could mount one directly to the lid of your battery box. Look for some salvage solar panels at auctions or industrial sales to keep the price down and get bigger power. Have fun!
ac-dc in reply to nerysFeb 7, 2011. 4:17 PM
You can get 60W panels for a bit under $150, you just have to shop around instead of at the major consumer products type websites. For example,
http://www.ecrater.com/search.php?cid=0&keywords=60W+solar+panel&x=0&y=0

nerys in reply to ac-dcFeb 7, 2011. 7:37 PM
wow definately keeping that bookmark !! but note those are short term sales and do not include controllers etc..

but still wow $108 for 60watts. Very very tempted. if I had $108 in the bank I would already have ordered it!
rumplesnitz in reply to nerysFeb 6, 2011. 1:43 PM
I'll go check that out. Is that a pre-assembled kit or part of something I'd put together?
syed_ahmed9003 says: May 3, 2011. 2:30 AM
great instructable,
ken4an says: Apr 11, 2011. 3:44 PM
can we hook 4 solar panels and we get 9V @ and 160mA and batteries connect in series so they will be 4.8V and half the capacity right? how can we be sure @ 99% we will not overcharge them ?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to ken4anApr 11, 2011. 9:31 PM
You could, and it would be fine. We're just trickle charging them which means we don't have to worry about over charging them.

So just connect four cells into two sets in series, then connect two two sets in parallel you would in fact get 9V @ 160 ma. Then connect two sets of batteries in a series and you would get 4.8V.

It's a good idea that would work just fine. Just remember to put 4 batteries in at one time.
ken4an in reply to JoshuaZimmermanApr 12, 2011. 4:45 PM
if i use solar panels with 3*2V will be enough to charge 4.8 batteries? or the 6V are just too low ?
nutsandbolts_64 says: Mar 26, 2011. 9:29 PM
We've been considering gathering some solar cells from calculators and just putting them together then using that for small applications like charging your phone (which gets annoying). Would that work?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to nutsandbolts_64Mar 27, 2011. 7:50 PM
You would need a whole lot. Heaps.

You'd be better off just spending the $5-10 and getting yourself some good quality solar cells. The little calculator ones don't put out much current, and some phones won't charge unless there is a certain amount of current coming in.

If you'd like some info on how to make a cell phone charger, send me a PM. I've got a couple of designs that have worked well for me.
nutsandbolts_64 in reply to JoshuaZimmermanApr 6, 2011. 1:49 AM
I think we'll just wait for a few more years and let the development of cheaper solar cells come and go then swoop in with a lot of cash and power this house here with the sun, since "make solar phone charger" isn't really in our to-do-during-single-life list.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to nutsandbolts_64Apr 6, 2011. 7:45 AM
Powering your home is rather cheap if you're willing to do a lot of soldering. You can be "chipped" cells that have been rejected by the factory for not a lot of money. They're still working perfectly fine, just have a few chips and dings on them. $500 will get you a full 1000 Watts of power, though you'll be spending a lot of time soldering. Then another $200-300 for a power control system and inverter.

Quite a bit cheaper than buying premade panels, thats for sure.
nutsandbolts_64 in reply to JoshuaZimmermanApr 7, 2011. 12:38 AM
Over here, $800 is a lot of money, and we're probably the only household to actually have any plan whatsoever to switch to solar. I don't even think it's worth it since majority of power production here is provided by hydroelectric dams, and only less than 10% is provided by coal. The only problem here is too many vehicles in one place at the wrong time. What's the point of switching to solar when we're gonna immigrate anyway? But I'll take what you said with me when we move.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to nutsandbolts_64Apr 7, 2011. 9:28 AM
Thus the problem with solar, the inital cost. You'll eventually save money with a big solar system, but it's going to take awhile. Years.

If I was ever to have a home built (ha ha) I would have it built so that I could easily add panels to the roof. If I even end up living in the countryside I would set up a system over several years using a combination of solar and wind (as wind will give you far more power for your $, but is inconsistant).

For the average home owner spending a couple of hundred a year on this would be possible, but it would be quite a few years before you'd see the major payoff.

That or you could set up a bunch of well geared staionary bikes hooked up to batteries and open a gym/ powerplant.
nutsandbolts_64 in reply to JoshuaZimmermanApr 9, 2011. 1:15 AM
Opening power plants is what I see in my future (at least chemical engineering). I remember we calculated the payoff time a few years back when solar was expensive. If I remember correctly, it would take 10 years. So it would have been halfway paid by now (if we had some solar installed here in the first place). I wonder what the folks would say if we turned the speed bumps into energy producers, instead of absorbers. Speed bumps reduce your car's speed by absorbing the energy from your car's wheels. If instead of absorption, it would be redirection, which redirects some of the energy to some kind of piezoelectric mechanism, while doing it's job in the first place (2 tons moving at 20 mph is still quite a lot of energy).
burdockwing says: Apr 4, 2011. 7:40 AM
when counting the price you didnt ad a soldering gun do you know how much those cost?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to burdockwingApr 5, 2011. 8:46 AM
No, but I figure that most people have such things.

You can buy one for as little as $10, but if you're going to be doing a bunch of projects like these you'll want to buy one in the more $20-30 range that has adjustable heat.

Also be sure to get one with a fine tip, not a giant tip. This makes things much much easier in the long run.
lol XD says: Mar 21, 2011. 5:20 PM
Great Instructable, you've answered many excellent questions down below, It might help others to add a F.A.Q. or something in the Instructable itself
big_F says: Mar 14, 2011. 2:04 PM
My local hardware/ sell it all shop sells those solar garden lights the little ones that run off 1 AAA battery, these ones have glass Solar cells and not those crappy plastic coated ones that go yellow in sunlight. Pulling them apart gives you 1 1.5v - 2.0v solar cell and 1x 800mah nimh battery. Series these little guys up and then parallel them to get some good charging voltages and capacities. All that for 87 pence each :)
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to big_FMar 17, 2011. 9:40 AM
I found some solar garden lights from the $1 store here in town. The included a 3.5 volt solar cell and a 200 mah AAA battery. I bought quite a few...

You might also want to look at yard sales during the summer. Some of the nicer solar lights have rather powerful solar cells in them.

The one thing you'd need to watch out for is the power of your solar cell. A 1.5 - 2 volt cell isn't going to charge up more than one battery, and we still don't know how many amps it's putting out. To charge two AAA or AA batteries you'll need at least 4 volts of power. The more volts a cell is rated for the less sunlight you'll need to get the minimum voltage required to charge up your batteries.

Even when I'm just charging up a single AA battery I still use a 4.5 volt cell so that my battery will be able to charge for a much longer period during the day.
Coindude19 says: Mar 13, 2011. 7:27 PM
where did you get the solar panels?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to Coindude19Mar 14, 2011. 9:30 PM
I get mine in bulk from several places. Either through eBay or though a Chinese factory. You can buy the from many online stores, from my site (browndoggadgets.com), or even salvage them from old garden lights. It depends on what you're trying to do.
Coindude19 says: Mar 13, 2011. 7:32 PM
Awesome Instructable, I am going to make one
ferster says: Feb 9, 2011. 6:54 AM
This is a great Instructable. Thanks.

I may have missed this somewhere, but do you have to make sure to STOP charging the batteries after so long? So, if I forget that there out there on my deck, can I damage the batteries?

Also, would it be hard to add a charge controller that would handle this?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to fersterFeb 9, 2011. 10:29 AM
As we're only doing the "trickle" methoid we don't have to worry about over charging them. They'll max out after so long, and the trickle isn't enough to cause any extra problems.

That being said I wouldn't leave them outside for two months at a time, that would be sad.
ferster in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 9, 2011. 11:47 AM
Great to know. Thanks very much.
naglfar909 says: Feb 8, 2011. 5:47 PM
Sorry, this is my first diy electronics. I have the following diode:
http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=wfc&Product_Code=DI033&Category_Code=

Along with a pretty nice solar panel I got from a VW Beetle battery charger.
It's got max power of 3.2 W, max power voltage of 18.8 V (!), and max power current of 170 milliamps.

Do these stats check out for this charger?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to naglfar909Feb 8, 2011. 6:25 PM
Well you could, but my goodness is your solar panel way overkill for this. What you have is a panel built to charge a big 12 volt battery, which is awesome! I just bought a big solar panel like that for an outdoor lighting project where I'm going to power a whole lot of LEDs.

So yes, that diode will work with your panel, but I wouldn't use that panel for charing AA batteries.

Buy a much smaller 4 or 5 volt solar cell for this project (all you need is one, two if you want to be fancy). Save your panel for bigger and better things.
naglfar909 in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 8, 2011. 6:46 PM
Many thanks!
Hummingbird says: Feb 6, 2011. 7:14 AM
Hi, where do you get 2 4.5v solar panels for $2? The title seems misleading since you yourself sell these solar panels for $4 each. This is more of a $10 kit, no?
zav in reply to HummingbirdFeb 6, 2011. 8:13 AM
These are discontinued Shell Solar CIGS solar cells. They should be able to be found on eBay.
Hummingbird in reply to zavFeb 6, 2011. 9:15 AM
Are these the 1/4 Watt ones? After looking up the solar cells as "Shell Solar CIGS solar cells" I found them. Thanks for the follow up!
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to HummingbirdFeb 6, 2011. 9:25 AM
Yup, you can find them on ebay cheap in bulk, or something like $4 each. Like most things, this project is very cheap to build as long as you're willing to buy items in bulk. They get super cheap when you buy them in quantities greater than 100.

That or you can pull them from defunct garden lights, which also has worked well for me.

I have a bunch of rechargeable AAA batteries that I bought in bulk so they end up being 50 cents each. To buy them individually would cost quite a bit.
ac-dc in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 7, 2011. 4:19 PM
It is worth noting that the amorphous ones in "most" cheap garden lights have a much worse lifespan than the Shell CIS type. It may not matter for occasional battery charging but if it were to sit outside all day every day, definitely go with the CIS for longevity.
zav says: Feb 6, 2011. 8:11 AM
These are not solar "panels", they are solar "cells".
ac-dc in reply to zavFeb 7, 2011. 3:52 PM
They can be considered panels because they take a solar cell and encase it in plastic or epoxy. The number of individual cells doesn't make it a panel or not, some (single) cells are huge and some are tiny.
nerys in reply to zavFeb 6, 2011. 12:40 PM
but you end up with a 2 cell solar PANEL :-)
zav in reply to nerysFeb 6, 2011. 4:14 PM
Uhhh, I really don't think that two cells really count as a panel.
nerys in reply to zavFeb 6, 2011. 5:20 PM
How do you define panel?

"A solar panel (photovoltaic module or photovoltaic panel) is a packaged interconnected assembly of solar cells"

its more than one interconnected cell in a package.

sounds like a solar panel to me :-)
willrandship in reply to nerysFeb 7, 2011. 3:57 PM
Plus, sice there's actually multiple cells in each of the two plastic cases (look closer) I'd say it qualifies.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to nerysFeb 6, 2011. 1:48 PM
Darn tootin.

A very simple solar panel. But one none the less!
zav in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 4:18 PM
Hmmm. I was even hesitating calling my 8 x 40 cell array a panel. Wondering if "multi cell array" might be more appropriate.

Really. When does a device go from a solar "cell" to a solar "panel"? I wonder what the discriminating factors are.
nerys in reply to zavFeb 6, 2011. 5:21 PM
to me this is NOT an array. an array to me would be a "set" of panels all working together.

so one cell is a solar cell.

more than one cell packaged together is a panel.

more than one panel set together is an array.

you could also have an "array" of cells a panel is essentially an array of cells.

but an array usually implies "larger scale"
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to nerysFeb 6, 2011. 8:03 PM
The problem with this is that with modern commercial solar panels it's impossible to see the individual cells. They're in there, but it looks like one giant panel (usually).

To the average person there is no difference between a solar panel and a solar cell in their mind.

(For instance I asked several people today and no one knew the difference.)
zav in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 8:21 PM
Really? I just had 15 installed on my roof and if you look, you can see the individual cells.

http://i.imgur.com/m3ygf.png

nerys in reply to zavFeb 6, 2011. 9:07 PM
you do realize most people would never guess "each" of those squares is an individual cell. most people would assume its one giant cell.

you and i know. but average joe would not.
ac-dc in reply to nerysFeb 7, 2011. 3:56 PM
Those look like they _are_ one giant cell because they share the same substrate, the grid on them just divides the cell up for higher voltage and an electrical conduction.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to nerysFeb 6, 2011. 9:26 PM
I guess it depends on what kind of sent up you're using. Some of the big commercial panels I've seen (for example at the local zoo) have a solid look to them. Other panel setups you can see the individual cells.

But as nerys say, the average joe (and my mother) can not tell the difference and probably use the two terms interchangeably.
zav in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 10:08 PM
Yeah, people might, but what interests me is what the correct term really is, any why.

ac-dc in reply to zavFeb 7, 2011. 4:00 PM
A solar cell is layers of material on the same substrate, the "bare minimum" you need to get power from light.

A solar panel is a mechanical term, it puts one or more solar cells into a protective casing to ruggedize it for (outdoors usually) use. Due to shipping and handling size issues, many solar panel arrays will have multiple solar panels in them, an due to the output voltage so commonly needed, most solar panels will have multiple solar cells in them but this is changing as new techniques produce high voltage cells.
jediwingknight says: Feb 6, 2011. 2:15 PM
I get lots of AAA batteries and the highest I have seen for NiMH was 1000 mAh, not 1800. Usually they are 700-900 or unlabelled. Also, the highest AA I have seen is 2800 mAh, usually 2000-2500 or unlabelled. For unlabelled, assume the lower end of that scale. For NiCad, AAs are 600 to 1000 mAh and AAA are 150 to 300 mAh.

Also, you shouldn't charge NiMH above 30 C or 86 F so if it is getting really hot, like in a car in the sunlight, you will have a lower capacity from that charge.

ac-dc in reply to jediwingknightFeb 7, 2011. 3:50 PM
Using small solar panels like this project uses, the resulting charge rate is low enough (lower heating of the NiMH cells) it is similar to charging batteries faster in a cooler environment (battery ends up at a similar temperature) so it won't really matter much.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to jediwingknightFeb 7, 2011. 11:27 AM
Good point about the heat. I'd hate to see anything melt...
m.hutchinson says: Feb 6, 2011. 11:43 AM
"It has a freshness o-ring in it that keeps moisture in, which also means it'll keep moisture out." - Unfortunately that means that any outgassing (NiMH vents hydrogen, NiCAD vents oxygen, both are explosive gasses) the batteries do during overcharging also get trapped inside the container. If that diode fails closed or someone omits it, you could conceivably have a very bad problem here. Vents are highly suggested...
zer0_da_hero in reply to m.hutchinsonFeb 7, 2011. 3:48 PM
I think some rechargeable batteries have overcharge protection and they don't cost too much more than regular rechargeables.
robonerd says: Feb 7, 2011. 12:57 PM
I got a bunch of those cheap solar night lights from Walmart, thinking I could use the solar panels for something... You think I could use those for this? Any diode in particular or could I use one I got out from my old PC?
ac-dc in reply to robonerdJan 16, 2012. 7:50 PM
If they are the type I'm thinking of, each panel is sized about right to charge a ~ 1AH NiCd cell in a day, that would be the general scheme, using 2 in series to charge a pair of AA cells in a holder like shown here, except you'll be better off putting 3 in series to get high enough voltage to keep charging during non-peak sunlight periods, and to offset that you'll probably use higher capacity NiMH cells.

There is no diode in particular you need to use, a standard 1A silicon diode gives about 0.6V voltage drop at this power level and are cheap, common as dirt. However for low voltage solar projects I recommend using a schottky diode because they tend to have only half the forward voltage drop. There is no particular one part # you need, there are many you could cannibalize out of some dead piece of consumer electronics you may have lying around, or any unregulated AC-DC wall wart typically is full bridge rectified, has 4 x silicon diodes in it.

Yes you could use one from an old PC. The power supply will usually have a few schottky diodes in it on the heatsink next to the wiring harness that exits the PSU. They are often double-diodes, the outer legs are anodes and the middle the cathode. Wire the solar cells to BOTH anodes to increase efficiency, and of course the positive battery output to the cathode.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to robonerdFeb 7, 2011. 1:52 PM
Actually you can probably pull a diode from those solar lights, otherwise a cheap 1N914 diode is a good choice (low volatge drop).

You should be able to use the solar panels with no problems. The thing you need to watch for is how much voltage they put out. They could be only 3 volt cells charging up a single battery, and if you want to charge up two batteries at once you'll need more than one panel.

Just be sure you know how much voltage they put out, and that you know how you're wiring them together. Parallel or series (or some combination of the two). That kind of thing.

It would be cool to see what kind of voltage and amperage you could collect by hooking up a whole bunch of cells pulled from solar lights. How many of these things do you have available to you?
robonerd in reply to JoshuaZimmermanJan 16, 2012. 8:42 PM
Thanks for the replies and the advice on the diodes. I got me two of those lights. Gonna rip em apart and see what I see.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to robonerdFeb 8, 2011. 5:54 AM
Good luck.
georogers says: Feb 7, 2011. 4:11 AM
I tried to order two photovoltaic cell but was refused, how can I order ?
georogers2005@yahoo.com
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to georogersFeb 7, 2011. 10:39 AM
Sorry about that. Problem fixed, order is all ready to go!

(Sometimes paypal and my ordering system don't play nice. Sigh...)
dropkick says: Feb 6, 2011. 10:40 PM
Nice Instructable, straight forward and answers any questions you might have.

I made basically the same set-up a few years ago, but as I was making mine for hiking I glued the solar cells to a piece of pvc siding (left over from my house) and then taped that to the inside of a ziplock bag.*
I then glued a piece of cloth to the back of the ziplock. The cloth is used to attach the bag with a pair of safety pins to another piece of cloth I sewed to the top of my pack.**
With the bag attached I can charge AA's while I'm hiking.
And I've kept the weight fairly low.***


*The siding is to protect the backs of the cells from the batteries bouncing around in the bag and lend some added strength (plus I didn't want to tape directly to the cells as I felt I might need to replace the bag later and tear off the tape).
**I tried using a Velcro attachment on a map bag years ago, but on a sunny day the glue backing on the Velcro melted and I lost the bag. Plus one side of the Velcro kept picking up crap, I got tired of cleaning it, and, so I moved to the safety pins.
***Some hikers worry about fractions of an ounce. Cutting the handles off tooth brushes and the like - I've never been that anal, but I still try to keep things fairly light.


Anyway, Good Job on the Instructable
louisecross says: Feb 6, 2011. 10:13 PM
Great instructable thanks
Solar garden lights can be used as emergency battery rechargers, just remember to remove the batteries before dark when the lights come on.
fozzy13 says: Feb 6, 2011. 2:56 PM
Great Ible!! Super simple and to the point. I did not know about the blocking diode, although I have been wondering for a while why solar panels don't suck power back into themselves when it is dark.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to fozzy13Feb 6, 2011. 6:02 PM
Actually they do suck power. You should have a blocking diode in your circuit.
HarveyH44 says: Feb 4, 2011. 1:37 AM
Why a Zener diode? And what part number or rating? Usually a schottky diode is used for the low forward voltage drop, 0.3 volts. Rectifier diodes are usually 0.7 volts. The zeners are special, and are built to have as specific breakdown voltage, which could be useful in preventing over voltage to the batteries, but not as used here.

AAA batteries are more in the 800-1000 mAH range, AA are in the 1700-2500 mAH range, never seen them as high as you stated.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to HarveyH44Feb 4, 2011. 4:14 AM
I guess I misspoke about the diode. I'll find out the part number tonight when I get home from work. I think you're right in that it's a schottky diode tough.

AA and AAA NiMh batteries have rather high capacity these days.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AA_battery

If you're talking about cheap ones, yes, they do have low capacity. Ones I've pulled AAAs from solar garden lights have capacities as low as 800 mah. The big name AA commercial ones I've bought for home use tend to have around 3000 mah.
nerys in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 12:32 PM
there is no such thing as a 3000mah NIMH AA to my knowledge except in maybe VERY expensive hard to come by cells.

the 3000mah nimh you get from china are usually worse than nicad's (under 1000mah as low as 270 mah (no joke)

the best your going to get that REALLY ARE as rated is around 2400-2500 mah with 2700mah every now and then doable but finicky.

so 2500 is your top for reliable realistic cells.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to nerysFeb 6, 2011. 1:50 PM
The energizers at my local store are 3,000 mah. Even the cheaper no name brand ones I've found locally are 2,700 mah.

But yeah, they're probably more like 2,500 mah, which isn't so bad.
nerys in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 2:29 PM
granted I have not checked in a few years but got any more info on that?

where do you live? USA ? reputable store? ie real energizers?

I hope your right a truly reliable 3amp AA would be REALLY nice !!
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to nerysFeb 6, 2011. 2:51 PM
Well I looked at Best Buy where in Wisconsin when I was there a few weeks ago, and their real real real Energizers were 3,000 mah.

Some other brand was 2,700 mah.
dustynrobots in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 7:21 AM
Nice simple solar charger! I'm wondering how exactly you know the capacity of your AAA solar garden light batteries and the more commercial ones. Almost none of the batteries I find have this kind of thing marked. Is there a way to measure this? Or did you estimate this from testing? Thanks!
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to dustynrobotsFeb 6, 2011. 9:43 AM
Mine say on the side. When I was at a store recently I checked out their batteries and there was info in small print that had the info. I do know that some older NiMh that we have around the house do not tell their capacity, which is very sad.

Try googling the brand of battery you have. Someone is bound to have that info on the net. If you are super worried about it then just use a single solar cell to charge up instead of two.

I recently pulled a AA NiCd battery out of a broken garden light and they were rated at only 800 mah. While that is more than enough to power a single LED for a night, it's rather low compared to most commercial.
nerys in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 12:33 PM
800mah for a AA nicad is actually rather good. they usually are 600mah.

I think 1000mah is possible for AA nicad but rare.
dustynrobots in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 10:07 AM
Thanks! I'm not super worried about it, I'm asking more from a nerdy/informative standpoint.
HarveyH44 in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 4, 2011. 10:55 AM
Diode looks general purpose, 1N914/1N4148. I use the often, as I have thousand (friend had a whole reel, cut me off over 6 feet worth).

The batteries, wasn't say the don't exists, just never see them that high, not typical by any means. I got some 2700s last year, but there is no way, just don't last any longer.

How old is your Chocolate Lab? My Lab is about 3 1/2, still has some growing up to do, but is getting better behaved all the time. Fortunately, he lost interest in electronics last year, and I can leave parts and projects sitting out. This one only eat three remotes, and one extension cord. It was the components he kept getting into that real got me though, still finding them in the carpet occasionally.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to HarveyH44Feb 4, 2011. 1:54 PM
1N194 is probably right. Cheap and useful.

I bought 50 AAA batteries off eBay for something like $25. They have a capacity of 1800 mah. I also have some AAs from the same company that are 3,000 mah. The Energizer AAs I have at home are 3,000 mah hour as well. They're all NiMh.

To be honest I'd love to use Some high powered capacitors for my projects, but they're just way too expensive. Especially with NiMh batteries being so cheap.

My lab is now nearly six years old. While she is no longer a puppy she is still a massive cuddle dog. She is also loving the massive snowfall here in Wisconsin. She just jumps around in it and loves to catch footballs while diving into snow banks.
kostya says: Feb 5, 2011. 11:24 AM
Have you ever tried to charge your cell phone with small solar panels? My panel is 6V/77mA. I hooked up a schottky and it works fine. On a sunny day it charges 3AA and can run am/fm radio. But I failed to charge my Nokia. Going to buy another panel and hook them in parallel.
nerys in reply to kostyaFeb 6, 2011. 12:41 PM
you need AT LEAST 300mah more like 500mah to charge a cell phone.

the charging circuit won't even properly engage at lower than that on most phones.

YOU MIGHT be able to charge the cell DIRECTLY ie not through the phone.

so 8 of those cells would probably do it.
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to kostyaFeb 5, 2011. 1:23 PM
Don't try charging your phone unless you know what you're doing!! Your phone probably needs 5 volts of power (USB is five) and feeding it too much power might kill your battery.

If anything you need a 5 volt power regulator thrown into the mix. Just to be safe. Look around the website and get some ideas on charging your phone through solar power.

Actually I'm building a solar powered USB charger right now. I'll be sticking it on my site for sale sometime this weekend. browndoggadgets.com if you're interested.
trebuchet03 in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 9:47 PM
Nokia phones are fairly resilient.... A 6V panel won't be enough voltage to cause damage (in Africa, some people use 4AA sized batteries to charge their phones - that's 6V nominal). There's a Nokia charging spec published somewhere on the internet - if I recall properly, the max charging voltage is something like 7 or 8 volts.

As soon as you start drawing current off the panel, the voltage will sag. Sophisticated solar controllers will manage this sag with MPPT (maximum power point tracking) - optimizing power by maximizing both voltage and current. That's probably why Kostya's phone didn't charge - it tried to pull more current than the panel could supply and the voltage dropped too far.

As with pretty much all modern mobile phones - the charger is built into the phone itself. The thing you plug in is just the power supply.
nerys in reply to JoshuaZimmermanFeb 6, 2011. 12:42 PM
not at 77mah and you really need 6v not 5 volt since once you get your "voltage drop" from apply a "load" you will need to END UP at 5v.

if you START with 5v your will end up around 4 volt after load.
kz1o says: Feb 6, 2011. 12:33 PM
Oh yeah, one more thing. Be sure that the Tupperware lid that you select will pass plenty of sunlight in the part of the spectrum that the solar cell uses. You can test this yourself: hook up a milliamp meter across the solar cell, with the meter set to the highest scale (like 100 mA). Hold it up to the light, and without changing anything else, watch what happens to the current output when you put the tupperware in front of the solar cell. You will probably see the current drop by about half. This, logically, will cause your batteries to charge half as fast. So if you can find the best cover for this purpose you will do well.

Again, good luck, and keep experimenting!

kz1o
nerys says: Feb 6, 2011. 12:30 PM
no its not a problem. NIMH don't really "Gas" much unless your RAPID charging them. virtually zero gassing at the rate of a solar charge on this scale.

if it did "fire" it probable would not even be enough to pop the lid off so no worries.
steamer551 says: Feb 6, 2011. 7:51 AM
Step 6 - Third sentence, third word, should be tape instead of take.
TOCO says: Feb 5, 2011. 5:17 PM
I got that soldering iron for christmas. How does it work for you?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to TOCOFeb 5, 2011. 5:43 PM
Just fine.
gamerguy13 says: Feb 4, 2011. 6:02 PM
You are right, the tuberware would keep out moisture. However, left outside couldn't the heat it generate be damaging to the batteries?
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to gamerguy13Feb 4, 2011. 7:04 PM
Depends on how hot it gets.

People use Solar Lights outside in all sorts of weather, and when you get down to it, are not a whole lot more different than this project. Battery + Solar Panel + LED. Only with this we're not using an LED.

I guess if the plastic starts to melt then you'd probably want to be worried, but until then, you'd be ok.
iPodGuy says: Feb 4, 2011. 4:47 AM
As a geocacher, I've seen what happens to dollar store plastic o-ring locking containers when they are left outside for long periods of time. They don't last very long before they leak and become brittle.

I love this project, but I would recommend a Lock 'n Lock container made by Rubbermaid that has been spraypainted or covered with tape. They're the same thing but sturdier and only two bucks more expensive.

I once tried to do something similar with gutted solar garden lights. I made a charger that stuck to the window of my truck so I'd always have 2 fresh AA batteries. Didn't work out for some reason, but I might try again using this instructable as a reference.

Thanks!
JoshuaZimmerman (author) in reply to iPodGuyFeb 4, 2011. 11:02 AM
It could be that the panel was not providing enough voltage to charge up your AAs. Get some higher voltage ones so that you'll always have enough power. 6 Volts or so should do it for two AAs.

That being said it does take a long time to charge up batteries. Even if you hit C/10 you'll need 15-20 hours of peak power to charge up fully. Not a problem if you're leaving it in the car full time.

Thanks for the rubbermaid advice. I'll try and find some for my next project. The dollar store is my cheap supply place.
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