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I just bought a Sony Bravia 46" LCD TV & want to mount it to the wall, but can't see spending $400 for the one I need. I scrounged up some spare material, & started cutting. I lucked up & had some left over aluminum & the ability to weld it together. You can use mild steel just the same, it will just be heavier. Also, the sizes & thicknesses I used are mostly overkill, but it is what I had & the price I like (free).


***ubiquitous safety warning***
I am not responsible if your t.v. & or your wall fall into your room & destroy your purrty new bluray player or your kitty or your grandma's 100 yr old oriental rug. Got it? If you can't weld, find someone who can, not someone who says they can, someone who can. If you're using tools, you'll probably get hurt sooner or later, don't come crying to me. Just suck it up & hit the other hand to forget about the first one.
Also, make sure you use the right bolts to go into the right material when you attach it to the wall. Do some research.

Step 1: Tools & Materials

Tools Required:
Saw
Drill
Welding Machine
Grinder
Ironworker (completely optional-makes some of the above easier)

Material Used:
1" OD tube (w/ 1/8 wall thickness)
E (4) 4" long
C (1) 5" long
F (1) 10" long
PLATE 3/8" thick
D (2) 4x5 1/2
A (1) 4x10
B (2) 2x2 1/4
(2) 1x1 3/4
THREADED ROD 3/4" Diameter (each has 2 washers & 2 nuts)
(2) 9 1/2" long
(1) 8 1/4" long
(1) 11 1/2" long
ANGLE 3x3x1/4
(2) 13" long

Not sure if this is more or less confusing than it should be, but I labeled most of the parts w/ letters above & in the image notes.

Step 2: Drilling, Cutting, Grinding. . .

Now that we've got most of the pieces cut to length, don't forget to cut & grind them into the shapes that you want . . .

I took a large sheet of paper & taped it to the back of the t.v. & colored in the holes to get an approximate length, then matched the holes in the angle to them. Sure beats lugging your t.v. into the shop. . .

The hardest part is making the 2 angles match EXACTLY opposite of each other, but it will work w/ a little patience.

The large holes were 13/16" (just big enough for the threaded rod to go through).

Step 3: Assembly

At this point you weld the plates to the tubes, making sure they're centered.

When you've got them all welded, you can assemble them.

The way it works is the tube is 1" OD (outside diameter), w/ a .120 wall thickness. This is just under 1/8" (.125). That gives us just over 3/4" inside diameter, which allows our 3/4" threaded rod to slide inside & rotate around. One nut is welded to the rod, & the other is left free. When you get everything in place, you can tighten down the loose nut & it will cinch the 2 tubes together so they won't rotate.

Before you weld on the tube that lays horizontal, make sure you attach the angles to the t.v. & measure between them. If that tube is too long, your angles won't fit, & if it's too short, you're probably going to rip the nuts out of the back of your t.v. (not a good thing).

Step 4: Mounting to the Wall

Time to drill some holes in the wall. Before you start this step you HAVE to know what kind of wall you are dealing with. If it is a block wall it will most likely be hollow, so you should get some sleeve anchors (here are the specs for the ones I used) or other hollow anchoring system of your choice. If it's a stud wall, then obviously, something going into wood is needed. DO YOUR RESEARCH!!! You do NOT want these to pull out of the wall.

The basic concept of the sleeve anchor is you drill a hole, hammer the bolt into said hole, & tighten the nut. As the nut tightens, it tries to pull the bolt out through the hole. The back end of the bolt is flared & forces the sleeve to expand & dig into the block. The bolts I used are rated for somewhere between 1150 & 2000 lbs EACH. So, as long as my t.v. doesn't weigh any more than 4 tons, I think I'm okay. NOTE: Sony recommends you figure your bracket & bolts to hold 4x what the t.v. weighs. I'm known @ work to be the king of overkill.

Also, keep in mind, the baseplate I used will not fit on a stud, it's too wide. I did this project @ the same time I was remodeling my living room, so I had access to the block before I replaced the drywall. It's funny, I could have done an instructable on hanging/finishing drywall, but was so amped to get my t.v. on the wall, that I forgot until just now.

Next, I cut out part of the box to make sure I was putting the bracket in the right spot. Much lighter & safer than using the real t.v.

After I drilled my holes & cranked down the bolts, I hung on it. If it holds me, it will hold the t.v. w/o a problem. I also put my 7 year old up on it. I wish I could've gotten a picture of that.

I left the cardboard t.v. up for a few days. . . the carpet guys thought I was crazy.

Step 5: Finishing

Now that it's built, it's time to put some finish on it. I wasn't sure whether I wanted to buff it up & clear coat it for that brushed satin look, or powder coat it, or paint it fancy w/ some automotive paint. Since I was in a hurry to get that t.v. hooked up, I decided spray paint would be the most ideal choice. The bracket mounted to the t.v. looks really red in this picture. That is the primer showing through. My kids helped paint it, so it's not the best job, but it doesn't look nearly this red in real life.

Also, you can't see any part of the bracket unless you stick your head under the t.v. so it really doesn't matter.

Step 6: Installing

One of the great things about hanging the t.v. to the wall is the clean look. So why be forced to look @ all the wires? I cut 2 holes for a cable chase & drilled an extra screw inside the wall to hold the fishing line.

Here's the trick. . . You can use fishing line, cotton string, or anything similar. I used fishing line, b/c that's what I had. If your holes are offset like mine, tie something magnetic like a nut or washer to the end of your line, & drop it down the top hole. Use a magnet to grab it & pull it to the bottom opening. Now you have just fished your line to connect the 2 holes.

Here is the important part. . . Pull enough extra line so that you can tie each end to it's respective screw (that I mentioned earlier) & a loop in the middle that can travel from top to bottom. Basically, it needs to be a little more than twice as long as the hole spacing. If you do this correctly, you just put your cable through the loop & pull the string from the other hole, until you have your wire up. Next time you need to add a wire, repeat. You'll never have to to fight your cables again.

Once you have part of your bracket attached to the wall, & the other part to your t.v., it's time to make your bolts. 3 people is ideal. My wife & I did it by ourselves, & it was nerve racking to say the least. Once you get your bolts connected, move it into place & crank them suckers down!!! Then you can unpucker your. . . oh wait, this is a family site. ;)

Make sure you crank down the bolts. Especially the horizontal bolt that is @ the t.v. It adjusts the vertical tilt of the screen, & I didn't tighten it down quite tight enough the first time & over the course of 15 hrs it slowly sagged until the bottom corner was touching the wall. I pulled it back up & tightened it as much as I could. That fixed it. I still need to tweak some things, but the cool thing about this bracket is that you can rearrange how the pieces connect & raise or lower the t.v. I plan on doing that when the speaker behind the t.v. starts to bother me.

One more thought. I was a lil nervous when I first put it up, b/c the bracket was fully extended & the t.v. wobbled quite a bit. Once I pushed it closer to the wall & folded the plates, they stiffened up A LOT.

FINAL TALLY:
I did have to buy the sleeve anchors, so the final cost was a whopping $9 for this bracket that would have cost close to $400. And if you take into acct that I designed it while I was working, I actually probably made money on the deal. . .

I'm done. Enjoying my t.v. This is my first instructable, so be gentle. . .
<p>To drop lines in insulated walls a plum-bob (glow rod even batter but cost $$) works great. Try to start it between the wall an insulation for best results.</p>
<p>Excellent work! Now... if only I had a welder...knew how to weld.. the list goes on! ;-)</p>
32&quot; LED
They want 400 Bucks for those things? I payed only 40 for mine i think.
All of the ones I found for $40 were for a max of 30" screen. Once you jump above 40" for the full-motion they got real expensive, real fast.
I mounted a 42" Plasma with a full motion mount I got from monoprice for $50 its great and sturdy, but I think this is a great instructable, but as for myself I don't trust my metal work enough to hang my tv on the wall with something I made :D
<p>I made two tv mounts from satellite tv dishes, the 1st one I bolted it directly to the tv a 32&quot;, the 2nd I just had to drill to holes, but we had to use an additional back mount because the tv is a 55&quot;. I will be mouting to the wall tomorrow. Now the cable for safety sounds like a great idea. I didn't even think about that. I will see about how I can manage that. I'm glad I got on here. I know the dish mount is very strong, but you never know.</p>
Monoprice has a really good selection of inexpensive mounts:<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=108&amp;cp_id=10828">http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=108&amp;cp_id=10828</a><br/><br/>But it's always more fun to do it yourself. :)<br/>
This is solidly designed and built, with creative use of materials. Good job.
This is a really nice thing you've got here...i wouldnt trust my 52 inch tv on my metalworking skill though...
In the end www.monoprice.com has $45 TV wall-mounts for 50&quot; LCD TV's. But if you work at a shop that has all of the items in this instructable then that's $45 plus shipping cost you save! I'm all for this good instructable if all it requires is my time and if the supplies are free!
Adding a safety cable might be a good idea it just might save your screen and whats under it from too much damage if it breaks...<br /> <br /> Fast Ed<br />
I like the idea, but I'm not sure exactly how to apply it.&nbsp; If it were tethered w/ a cable &amp; this bracket broke, you seems to me like it would act like a swing &amp; smash into the wall, instead of falling straight down or forward, still damaging the screen.<br /> <br /> Makes me shudder either way. . . good news is; I've had this for almost a year &amp; have not problems w/ it<br />
Which would be better swinging into a wall or falling to the floor? What about whats under it? Something else breakable? Maybe a child crawling around on the floor? A simple cable with a eye on each end able to hold up to the falling weight attached either with the wall anchors holding it or a separate lag bolt the other end attached into the back of the tv's mounting bracket, just in the event a weld would break, and the tv swinging into the wall back first is less likely to smash the screen than hitting the floor would, and if your in a earthquake zone there are probably codes you need to follow in building one of these, not that you could be sued since you built it for yourself, but the your home owners insurance could refuse to pay. Hey it's only a $5-10 safety that may save you more than just the cost of your tv!<br /> <br /> Fast Ed<br />
Those are all valid points.&nbsp; Points that I agree should be considered ESPECIALLY if you're in an earthquake zone.&nbsp; I live in Florida so luckily I didn't have to worry about that.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /> <br /> As a certified welder &amp; a draftsman/designer I know I over-engineered it &amp; the weld breaking would not be a problem.&nbsp; You've got to figure every square inch of that weld is good for about 6,000 lbs, plus the expansion anchors are good for over 1100 lbs ea.&nbsp; Our next hurricane may take the roof off of my house, but that bracket ain't going nowhere. :)<br /> <br /> I was actually most concerned about the connection to the back of the t.v.&nbsp; which if that fails it's falling no matter what was hooked to it. <br /> <br /> I DO totally &amp; completely agree that piece of mind is just as important as any other aspect of the design.<br /> <br /> <br />
This is awesome! I always wanted to have a TV bracket, but the basic one would cost you $200 from stores. Thanks for sharing!
I thought your first Instructable was very good. Your next should be Welding Aluminum...
I'm working on some videos, trying to get my cameras to focus the whole time is tough. . . stay tuned. . .
Very nice , aluminium welding isn't straight forward and requires expensive kit, but your design could be built by far less skilled people by utilizing small U-bolts to clamp and attach the tubes to the plates. Although not as elegant it would be strong enough.,and all the materials could still be heavy gauge aluminium
Very nice and detailed instructable! Now if i had the time and skill....
Thank you. After all of the comments about not being able to weld, I'm working on one that is completely bolted together. And free. . .
Well seeing how well-put together this instructable was, can't wait to see the next!
In my past experiences JB weld is a binary 'cold weld' adhesive that they advertise "bonds as strong as steel", indeed it is strong! If you don't have access to a welding torch, JB weld might do the trick....but Im not sure if you want to test JB weld's strength on such an expensive investment like an 30+ TV screen...which now looking at gamnopart's last images in step 6. I am certain JB weld it won't hold up to the cantilever load....nevermind.. ...perhaps just a 15" computer screen. :D
Rofl. . . Let me know how that works out for you. ;)
That's a nice project and very sturdy looking as well (can't be too safe) Good Work!
Thanks. I'm definitely overkill king.
All well and good if You can weld, But the trick is to do all this without getting out a welding torch.
You could design it w/ all bolted connections. . . I guess that should be my next instructable.
You didn't happen to measure the torque on the wall bolts and tv bolts did you?
Sorry, no I didn't. :(
Very nice. I've always wanted to wall mount an LCD but never wanted to pay the prices they charge for VESA mounts.
i have one that looks exactly the same but it only cost 86$ but yours is probbaly stronger
Great work, probably more secure than a shop bought one aswell!
Thanks. I felt better about it than the ones I could've bought.
This is the exact kind of problem I've been trying to solve serve as an articulating arm for my laptop. and 2nd monitor. Does anyone have a solution to this that doesn't require welding and cutting too many things with big flames or sparks coming up as I live in an apartment and don't have a separate work area. I've been thinking about something similar to this wood setup here:<br/><br/><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Recliner_Computer_chair/">https://www.instructables.com/id/Recliner_Computer_chair/</a><br/>
You could bolt all of your connections instead of weld, but other than that, I think the wood setup like that other instructable would probably be your best bet. I still can't figure out why apartment managers don't like sparks or flames. . .
Great job. Looks good. also : "Just suck it up & hit the other hand to forget about the first one." I lol'ed.
Good work. I'm working on something similar for a steady cam.
Good idea, good work.

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Bio: If I can build my own, or fix a broken one, I would rather have IT, than to buy a new one. I am a ... More »
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