Introduction: 40,000 Rolls of Film Developed From 50 Grams of Phenidone

Picture of 40,000 Rolls of Film Developed From 50 Grams of Phenidone

As I have stated in previous tutorials, photography *can* be an expensive hobby but it doesn't *have* to be. Developers can be costly like Perceptol running about $1.50 a roll in just chemical costs down to .18 cents a roll for store bought Rodinal. It can also be cheaper--a LOT cheaper.

This tutorial showcases a developing agent called Phenidone. As of this writing 50 grams of it sells for $12 at ArtCraft Chemicals in NY. It's a very powerful developing agent and we are going to be using it sparingly. A group of photographers would be wise to "kick in" and split a bottle and not for the cost factor.

The photo on this step was shot with Arista EDU 100 developed in this chemistry

Materials Needed:

Phenidone

Sodium Hydroxide (lye drain cleaner available at Ace Hardware or on Amazon from soap-making suppliers)

Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda--arm & hammer or grocery store generic)

Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C from nutrition stores or Amazon--do NOT mistake it with Citric Acid)

91% Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (marine stove fuel, shellac thinner--check the label)

2- 50ml amber glass "boston round" bottles--available online or from container stores

Digital scale (about $8 on Amazon or from Harbor Freight)

Eye dropper calibrated for 1ml or clean insulin syringe with needle cut off & disposed of properly

pyrex measuring cup

small funnel

Step 1: Mixing the Concentrates From Which We Will Extract Batch Quantities

Picture of Mixing the Concentrates From Which We Will Extract Batch Quantities

Take the pyrex measuring cup and add 50ml of the denatured alcohol or the 91% isopropyl alcohol to it. Take a small square of paper approx 2" and fold a crease into it. Place it on the digital scale & turn it on. It will zero out adding the weight of the paper. Open the 50gr bottle of Phenidone and put .4gr (4/10ths of a gram) onto the creased paper. Remove from the scale. Using the creased paper as a "trough" put the phenidone into the alcohol and stir it. Put the small funnel into the first 50ml amber bottle and pour the phenidone/alcohol mix in. Cap the bottle and label it.

If you divide the .4 gram into the 50grams we will eventually get 125 of these 50 ml vials from the Phenidone

Rinse everything well & dry with a paper towel

Next take the pyrex cup and put in 50ml of cold water--bottled drinking water preferred. Using the scale and a clean 2" square piece of paper like we did above, measure out 5 grams of Sodium Hydroxide and slowly add it to the water. Stir gently and keep cup away from face & eyes--protective goggles would likely be advised as well as gloves, It will produce heat from chemical reaction. Allow to cool and place this in the 2nd Amber bottle--cap & label it.

The other chemicals are added as powders to our working batch

The photos in this step were shot with Plux X expired for 25 years developed in this chemistry

Step 2: Mixing the Working Batch

Picture of Mixing the Working Batch

Take a 500ml bottle and place 400ml of water in it. Tap water is fine. Add the chemicals in the following order capping and shaking to dissolve before adding the next chemical. Water at room temperature

1.4 grams Sodium Bicarbonate

8ml of the Sodium Hydroxide concentrate (using the 1ml eye dropper or insulin syringe rinse after use)

1 gram Ascorbic Acid (weiging on the scale on a creased piece of paper and sliding it into the bottle)

1.25ml of the Phenidone/Alcohol concentrate.

Top off to 500ml cap it and mark it Working Batch

The photos in this step were shot on color film & cross processed as B&W with this chemistry

Step 3: Using the Developer

Picture of Using the Developer

From the working batch of 500ml we will extract 2 oz (approx 50ml) and add it to 6oz water to make a 250ml (8oz) single roll 1-shot & toss developer. At this extreme dilution the processing times ar 2.5 to 3 hours with occaisional inversions every 30 minutes or so, Stop Bath & Fix/wash as normal

You might find that some films don't like long "stand" times, you can simply adjust the dilution & cut the time, The cover page photo of the old Zorki camera was straight solution for 19 mins.

So--lets do the math:

a 500ml working batch does 8 rolls of film

Taking 1.25ml of phenidone/alcohol from a 50ml bottle gives 40 batches . 8 rolls x40 batches =320 rolls from a 50ml vial

From the earlier step we derived that dividing 50 grams by .4gr gave us 125 of the 50ml vials

125x320= 40,000 rolls total ---If you shoot a roll of film a DAY you'll run out in 109 years

Costs:

Phenidone $12

Sodium Hydroxide $5.50 for a 1lb bottle

Sodium Bicarbonate $3 for a pound if even that

Ascorbic Acid $8 for 100 grams on amazon

~~~~~~~~ Total $28.50~~~~~~

The photos in this step were shot on Tasma Mikrat300 expired soviet microfilm 35 years old

Comments

Uncle Kudzu (author)2018-01-14

Thanks for sharing this! I will be studying it in detail later, seeing as how Rodinal is my hands down favorite developer. I still have a very old small bottle, but I'm told that it has a very long shelf life in concentrate.

dkeating2 (author)Uncle Kudzu2018-01-15

I was given a 68 year old bottle--it still works

https://www.diyphotography.net/heres-looks-like-develop-expired-film-68-years-old-developer/

gm280 (author)2018-01-14

I realize what you are doing and talking about. But what are the real benefits over digital photos? Does the film actually have a greater density or resolution? IDK

dkeating2 (author)gm2802018-01-14

Film still has FAR greater resolving power over digital. The canon 5Ds top of the line (currently) has 50MP res. The Tasma Mikrat film portrayed in the last step is expired microfilm and has 300 lines of resolution per millimeter or about 375MP. Regular Tmax film is rated at 175MP and if you shoot 4x5 you are looking at 1140MP. Now, we also have to look at the overall "big" picture which falls into the old saying "the right tool for the right job". My main line of work is tech support and I'm often asked to take photos at company functions and the co-ordinator always requests that they be in her DropBox by end of business the next day and she wants color.. I use a digital camera. That being said there seems to be a rush to embrace new technology and people realize that for some applications older was better. Take vinyl records for example. The audiophiles will tell you that digital CD sound is "clipped"and doesn't have the warmth & tonal range of a vinyl recording. A record used to cost $1 to make--a CD is more like .10 cents. But you can't play a record in your car--again the right tool at the right time. Do I prefer film? yep. Do I own & use digital cameras ? yep. Show me any automobile mechanic who refuses to buy metric tools because they are stuck in the past--they better hope they see a lot of pre-70's cars on the road still

gm280 (author)dkeating22018-01-14

I get the distinct feeling you've taken my question the wrong way. I was honestly asking because I didn't know. Not trying to make any other suggestions or comparisons. But I got the answer and am satisfied all the same.

dkeating2 (author)gm2802018-01-14

Not at all. Its not information widely distributed or what i would consider common knowledge. No snarkiness detected in your queston and none intended in my reply

dkeating2 (author)gm2802018-01-14

PS to my previous post--good writeup here

http://istillshootfilm.org/post/114131916747/the-r...

The article calculates a digital camera would have to deliver 156MP to equal 35mm quality. An 8x10 view camera neg is 4640MP

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