Step 5: Electric Lemon

Lemons can give you electricity! 

1. roll the lemon to get the juices
2. Cut 2 slits in the lemon
3. in one slit place a dime, the other use a penny.
4. Now you have electricity from a lemon, you can test how much with a multimeter.
12yrs ago when my son was diagnosed with Leukaemia his Dr a Professor/Sir in Oncology told me that to keep my home free from germs (as all germs are a life threatening thing to someone with no immune system) i should use white vinegar diluted with half water to 100% sterilize my home etc (Plus can add lemon to neutralize vinegar smell). She also said there is nothing on the shelf you can buy that will kill 100% of germs only sunlight or vinegar. (which for inside your home sunlight is useless). Now you know why everything on the shelf on says 99.99% of germs not 100% effective like cheap good old vinegar.
<h3>7 Ways to Use Lemons for Beauty</h3><p>Lemons are vitamin C rich citrus fruits that enhance your beauty.By rejuvenating skin from within bringing a glow to your face. One of the major health benefits of drinking warm lemon water is that it paves the way for losing weight faster.read more <a href="http://www.yourcooltool.com/p/7-way-to-use-lemons-for-beauty.html" rel="nofollow">here</a></p>
A cup of lemon juice to your wash? What is that, like a dozen lemons?<br>Not worth the cost or effort. I'd rather make lemonade with all those lemons.
<p>Use white vinegar and borax. Cleaner, better smelling clothes and towels. Both are super cheap. </p>
<p>Borax is alkaline and vinegar is acetic. Seems like these 2 would work contrary to one another in the wash. Maybe use either or?</p>
<p>Unfortunately, alkaline and acid, are not always mutually exclusive. In this case we are using the vinegar to rob the borax of one of its sodium ions. If you do the chemistry and react the proper amounts together you will eventually get a weak solution of boric acid. I cannot testify as to the usefulness of adding boric acid to a wash, but a partial reaction would give sodium borohydroxide (I think that is what it would be called) which is still an acid (technically depending on how much vinegar reacts with the borax). I suspect that this fills a similar function to the vinegar, but without the sharp smell. The sodium acetate byproduct does nothing. I'm not certain this is a useful reaction, but this is what would happen if you mixed them.</p>
<p>Sorry - should have made that clear. When I wash towels, I add vinegar. When I run a regualr load, just the borax.</p>
<p>Sorry - should have asked how much of each do you use - a tablespoon or cup full? and do they go in with the detergent or in the final rinse?</p>
<p>Depends on the load, but vinegar would be a cup. A cup, or a half cup of borax if it's a smaller load.</p><p>If you use them both in the same wash, use the borax with the detergent, the vinegar would go later, much like fabric softener. </p><p>I would advise, if you use a top-loading machine, let the basin fill up with water and let the borax dissolve. It tends to clump.</p><p>Which reminds me about storage: put the borax in something relatively air-tight. It absorbs moister and will clump in the box.</p>
<p>How do you use them - instead of washing powder or as well as? if as well as - when do you put them in?</p>
<p>We use 1/2 detergent and 1/2 borax.</p><p>Works good and smells good. Works good with work clothes.</p>
<p>I use borax or vinegar with detergent. I just don't use as much detergent as one would, normally.</p><p>Also, borax and vinegar do slightly different things. The former boosts the detergent. Vinegar neutralizes odors - works great on towels and sheets.</p>
I think lemon juice is one of those once in a while things you use when spring cleaning your clothes or something. If I had some particularly smelly clothes from storage that still smelled after washing, some lemon juice might just do the trick to deodorise them.
<p>Lemon juice has a mild bleaching effect. For deodorizing, especially athletic clothing and underarm odors, half a cup of vinegar in the wash works best. And yes, the vinegar smell dissipates.</p>
<p>Right- there might be a slight vinegar smell when you take it out of the machine, but it will be gone as soon as the clothes dry. </p>
With a good citrus press it would only take a few lemons to get to a cup.
<p>what this doesn't tell you (with the blonde highlights) is that lemon juice will also cause a very ugly burn on your skin if you expose it to the sun. It really is ugly, more than painful. Causes a very dark burn that will eventually fade... in weeks.</p>
<p>This is what I was talking about before. The citric acid in your case was activated by the UV in the sunlight creating a very active anion. You basically got an acid burn. Acid burns of this type tend to go deeper than the surface skin layer because the skin absorbs it. If you get exposed to acid of any sort, immediately apply wet baking powder to the area, and keep it there for several minutes. The idea is to hopefully neutralize the acid before it causes additional damage and irritation.</p>
<p>This is what I was talking about before. The citric acid in your case was activated by the UV in the sunlight creating a very active anion. You basically got an acid burn. Acid burns of this type tend to go deeper than the surface skin layer because the skin absorbs it. If you get exposed to acid of any sort, immediately apply wet baking powder to the area, and keep it there for several minutes. The idea is to hopefully neutralize the acid before it causes additional damage and irritation.</p>
<p>This is what I was talking about before. The citric acid in your case was activated by the UV in the sunlight creating a very active anion. You basically got an acid burn. Acid burns of this type tend to go deeper than the surface skin layer because the skin absorbs it. If you get exposed to acid of any sort, immediately apply wet baking powder to the area, and keep it there for several minutes. The idea is to hopefully neutralize the acid before it causes additional damage and irritation.</p>
<p>Microplane frozen lemon, peel, seeds, and all, over foods, and get a boost of flavor!</p>
<p>That is an awesome idea! I've never thought about freezing it before cutting. I'll bet that would work well for oranges too!</p>
White vinegar works just as well for boosting laundry detergent, and it's inexpensive. I buy it in the gallon-size bottles. I always add half a cup to my laundry, but use only half as much laundry detergent. Works wonderfully.<br><br>I've been wondering if I can pre-mix the two (vinegar and detergent) in a bottle so I only have one thing to add to my laundry? I don't see why not... Planning to try that.
I'm on a modern septic tank and can't use chlorine bleach (not sure about oxygen bleach). When I phoned the manufacturer they said to use vinegar and it works well to freshen up the wash especially sheets and towels which seem to need a little extra something every once in a while.
<p>You can make a bleach alternative that is safe for septic tanks. Mix 1 1/2 cups 3% hydrogen peroxide with 1/2 cup lemon juice in a gallon jug. Fill the jug with water, then add 12 drops lemon essential oil &amp; shake to mix. Add 1 cup of the mixture per load of white laundry to the bleach dispenser, or add to the machine with detergent while the machine fills with water then add laundry. I've used this for years on my septic system with no problems &amp; it works!</p>
<p>I can vouch that this will work. It is pretty aggressive also in that you don't want to use this if you have a really old washer. It can speed up cracking and rusting if used frequently. The peroxide robs the citric acid of its hydrogen leaving a very reactive citrate anion behind. This will react with a lot of things, but especially minerals and organics (thus the bleaching effect). If you have a very old system, you can use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to clean some things. It's not quite as effective, and may require an extra rinse, but it won't speed up rusting or cracking. Bicarbonate breaks down in water to form carbonic acid and (a very weak) sodium hydroxide which will react with a lot of things to form carbonate salts. Any carbonate salts should further decompose in the dryer leaving you with very odorless garments. One note of warning, carbonate salts often precipitate out of water leaving a white powder behind. This is what needs to be rinsed out. It is harmless, but sometimes annoying. You can clean the powder out occasionally by rinsing with a small amount of vinegar. This makes the sodium water soluble again, and sodium acetate is completely safe for septic systems.</p><p>If you aren't washing anything synthetic (ie. rayon, polyester, etc) you can use ammonia to clean things as well. It won't do a lot of bleaching, but it will be sterile and clean. Ammonia works great also if you need to clean soap scum from hard water. I've resued several old tubs this way.</p>
You could also use borax, or baking soda to boost the detergent. When I have a really dingy load, I add the vinegar along with a generous sprinkling of baking soda. Gets any load super clean, especially really dirty whites. (yikes, that sounded racist *Grin*)
I absolutely love, love, love borax... I don't buy bleach anymore.... My grandmother(this is gross...but she's old...and hillbllyish)....Had a blanket on the top of her bed that had not been washed in 5 years... She had it dry cleaned...and it looked gross... It was all yellow and weird colors and such... I took it while she was in the hospital and washed it for her.... The water was BLACK! I didn't even know there was white on the blanket...... It looked brand new. And man was she happy...lol
<p>I'm telling grannie on you</p>
In that a septic tank does it's work in the absence of oxygen, no doubt anything that introduces oxygen would integer with the inter workings of a septic tank. The use of solar powered clothes dryers help keeps your laundry smelling fresh.
<p>I did that when the dryer broke. The clothes stank! Line drying has this huge myth around it, but the reality is different. Clothes got to collect pollen and air pollutants while mildewing if the humidity is up. I taked to an Old about life before clothes dryers, most things went to laundries or laundresses who lit huge fires to dry clothes indoors. Even in summer. Historical fact isn't as pretty as advertising.</p><p>Adding vineger and borax takes the dirt like skin oils out of the fabric, which is what can build up and make fabrics icky. The sun doesn't, it's just a heat source evaporating water.</p>
<p>We still hang our clothes out in the summer and in the winter.</p><p>We never ever had smelly clothes, they smell very good and refreshing.</p><p>My mother hung clothes out in the summer and in the winter and there was no smelly clothes. My mother had an wringer to get most of the water out before hanging them on the cloth-line.</p><p>You may have try different detergents. Your clothes may smell when you hang them out and when they are wet. </p><p>We have a dryer, but we usually do not use it. </p>
<p>Sounds to me like you probably didn't bother to wring out the wet clothes well enough. Just say'n in the OLD days (read off grid) there were really effective mechanical hand cranked wringers, use of which prevented the problems you mention. I dare say a quick search would turn up modern equivalent machines that are available today. </p>
<p>You talked to an Old- wow just wow, how nasty imho. Perhaps in a constantly warm &amp; humid climate, but in the OLD days, when there were 4 distinct seasons talking up north of course, clothes were hung out on the lines, those T clotheslines, in all seasons. The clothes came inside fresh smelling &amp; refreshed from the sunshine. In winter they were still hung out, brought in stiff from the cold, and when not stiff were ironed. My experience obviously varied vastly from the one that your 'Old' had. And of course, there was not the pollution back in the 50s/60s. Bringing it back to the present, my neighbour up the street, has for the 40 years I have lived in my house hung her clothes out in the non winter weather on one of those revolving umbrella clothes dryers unless it is raining &amp; will continue to. So, each to their own I guess. I totally agree with adding vinegar &amp; borax.</p>
<p>imho??? Implode? Wow just Wow! Be nice.</p>
<p>imho = in my humble opinion and I was being nice. Commenting that she was talking to 'an Old' was anything but nice, again imho. </p>
<p>Here here</p>
<p>in the winter the water sublimates into the dry air. It takes longer, but it does work. I grew up in Montana... got 1st hand exp. still like my dryer though...</p>
<p>Actually, the UV light in sunlight does do chemical work. It won't remove dirt, but it will break down organics and oxidize minerals.</p>
<p>Are you sure the cloths didn't stink when you hung them? My in-law's who live in a very humid Philippines line dry all their clothing and their clothes look incredible and smell nicely clean. Some of the Filipino people have dirt floors but their white shirts/pants/etc. look perfectly new and smell just fine. What's &quot;old school&quot; here is current technology there and it works great.</p><p>If they can line dry their clothing in the Philippines without mildew problems, it can be done anywhere, well perhaps not in a rain forest.</p>
<p>You're just plain wrong, sweetpea. Line drying is cheap and effective- if you live in a jungle, you might have some problems, but you can line dry anywhere in America, even in the humid South. Even in the freezing dead of winter! I don't know what &quot;Old&quot; you talked to, but line-dried clothes smell like sunshine. Been using a clothesline for 60 years -guess that makes me an &quot;Old&quot;; also a &quot;Poor&quot; maybe.</p>
Cheese queen. I lived north of Austin for about 8 years (very humid) and am now in the California high desert. I've always dried my clothes on the line and they smell fantastic. I have a dryer in case of emergencies but seldom use it.
<p>it is completely false to suggest thst the sun is just a heat source evaporating water. It is a very powerful sterilsing agent with it's ultraviolet rays killing germs and bacteria.</p>
<p>The sun, itself, kills bugs. I always, always dry my washing outside - even on days of rain and windI just hang it on the deck. Only risk of hanging washing outside is the risk of birdstrike!</p>
<p>Actually oxygen will only speed up the digestion. Also, the crap about chlorine is just that. Unless you are using absurd amounts of chlorine, it will get diluted to the point where it is harmless by the time it reaches your tank. The key is to not get crazy with it, and to not do it every day. Bleach isn't good for most clothes anyway. It wears them out faster in the same way that sunlight does. In fact, sunlight will bleach your cloths just as well on a bright day.</p>
Solar powered, as in using an outdoor clothes line, yes but not at all if you're using an electric dryer powered by solar electricity lol
<p>Be careful with vinegar in the washing machine--it's a corrosive acid that can remove the finish from a porcelain tub. Just don't let it dry onto the finish--maybe run a rinse after using it. </p>
<p>Vinegar can't harm the ceramic. It seeps in between the cracks in the ceramic and gets at the metal underneath thereby widening said cracks. These cracks are microscopic... btw.</p>
<p>Porcelain and ceramic are not the same thing. Try taking a metal cup coated with porcelain and filling it with a vinegar solution. After a while, the vinegar will damage the finish.</p>
<p>Yes, you are right. It will damage the surface, but it will not compromise the ceramic itself. It is similar in this respect to how stainless steel functions. SS can actually corrode in air, but it forms a very thin protective layer in doing so that prevent further oxidation. </p><p>The vinegar will chelate and remove any metal ions on the surface of the ceramic, which eventually leaves an uneven surface covered in non-reactive oxides. It is this uneven surface which we perceive as dullness. Vinegar is an amazing molecule that is useful for many things. It just requires that one use it correctly. </p><p>For instance, if one is trying to increase the potency of vinegar in softening water, or removing mineral stains, then mixing hydrogen peroxide with the vinegar before treating will increase the working speed and reactivity. I use this trick to prepare copper acetate salts quickly for my projects. One should note however that this will also cause a mild bleaching effect in fabrics, so care should be taken if trying. Peroxide can be mixed with citric acid as well, but will likely form cloudy mixtures (precipitates).</p><p>I usually use glacial acetic acid with 40% hydrogen peroxide, but this is dangerous and should only be done by someone with experience handling concentrated chemicals. Household grade chemicals are fairly safe, but will take longer to react properly since they are heavily diluted.</p><p>Also, porcelain is a type of ceramic. It even states as much in the wiki article for it here: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porcelain" rel="nofollow">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porcelain</a></p><p>This is a list of the most common acetate salts: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Acetates" rel="nofollow">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Acetates </a> </p><p>An interesting fact: Most acetate salts are water soluble which makes them both an easy way to transport metal ions and a dangerous way to pollute an environment. Copper salts of vinegar are poisonous to plants and fish, and a very small amount can poison local ponds. Acetate salts can usually be absorbed directly through the skin because of its ability to dissolve in water. With this in mind, if you are going to be using vinegar a lot, then wear gloves to protect your skin. Vinegar is mostly harmless, but like anything, it is best when used in moderation.</p>

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