Step 5: Care and feeding

There are more complete care and feeding descriptions elsewhere, I'll be back later to tell what I know.
Meanwhile, if you have a good source for trays, worms or other information, please post it here.

If you haven't already, do the book. I would prefer an e-book because it's faster to get. I'm not all that patient when it comes to getting info !
Way back when (2006) I posted a question about using non native worms because I was woried about them should they escape into the local landscape 9 (my property borders forest land). Your suggestion to start the bin in direct contact with the ground and "see what critters crawl up into it" was very good. It attracted worms and sow bugs (AKA wood lice- from the forest land) and they started right to work but it took a couple of months to breed to the volume necessary for the compost created by my family of 5. It has been going for three years and is still going strong. Many Thanks.
My apologies for the delayed response.<br><br>That's great and gratifying news that you were able to enlist your native worms and bugs in your cause! Sow bugs have found my bin as well, even though it's inside my garden shed. They're good decomposers too, and seem to co-exist happily with the worms.
<p>do the book let us know.Good Job by the way. </p>
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Mulch is pretty cheap these days in most states, so you'd have to scale your worm production up an awful low. In drier areas like Nevada or Arizona it might go for a little more, which puts it in a more reasonable venture. Also, marketing is good: if you advertise it as "100% natural, high nitrogen, red wriggler-produced soil enricher," you might attract the local gardening nut who's afraid or artificial stuff like Miracle-Gro.
I should have said for 3rd world use, mainly. That said, I've seen bags of worm castings in garden stores for what I thought were high prices, for a few pounds of material.
I live in Tucson, AZ, &amp; last summer I paid $10 for a small bag of worm castings. By small I mean about 8 oz. Good, organic mulch is equally expensive.
...also, worm castings (and compost in general, as far as I know) are generally thought to be fertilizer, to be mixed into the soil, rather than mulch.
i say do the book and do you recomend this for florida or somthing else
Please reply to this comment if you'd like to see a small ebook/iBook (and would pay a small sum for it). <br><br>Thanks
I would definitely be interested in an ebook/ibook . Preferably for kindle, and maybe around $4? Like the articles and your polite commentary. Keep up the good work!
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://grr-uh-rick.tumblr.com/">http://grr-uh-rick.tumblr.com/</a>]This was a very informative instructable. Here's the bin that I made... It's working out pretty well, and it's been running for about 2 months. It's amazing how all these little organisms just appear out of nowhere.<br/>
Thanks, though I see no sign of a worm bin there other than a brief mention of it in text. You're not <em>really</em> going to make everyone sift through your un-searchable site are you?? ;-)<br/><br/>Why not just add an image to a comment on this Instructable?<br/>
I just checked today, and the account seems to be gone. Rats.<br>If anyone else has made their own bin from this 'ible, please post links and photos here!
Thank you so much for this! I have been wanting a worm bin and couldn't understand why they were all so expensive. This is the perfect solution! I can't wait to get started. Where do you place your worm bin trays, out of the direct sun? Are they sensitive to temps?
I think you should absolutely write your book!
You're welcome, Kelly. Yes, do keep them out of direct sunlight!! I keep mine on the floor of my garden shed, which has a cement paver floor. I insulate it with a section or two of newspaper, or just set the bin on a couple of strips of wood to keep it off the floor. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, so the temperature rarely gets really hot or cold. My sister had a bin in her garage in Oregon, and it was too cold for the worms during the Winter. I called a nursery flat manufacturer, and it turns out he is the supplier for one of the commercial worm bin makers. He has an agreement with the guy not to sell flats for use in worm bins, though he does sell to people who grow worms for sale.
I live in The Bay too!!! Should I keep mine on cement or can I put it in the dirt???<br>If you are local I would LOVE the name of the place to get the nursery bins as well! I do not yet know how to dens a personal message, can you send me one?
Er, I don't live <em>in </em>the Bay, but I do live in the Bay Area. &nbsp;;-)<br> <br> I got my flats in Oregon, where they are made, but you should be able to find them. I'd start with your local nursery first. If they sell ground cover in flats, they may have some with the smaller holes.&nbsp;<br> <br> Since worms are cold-blooded, you'll want to make sure they don't get too cold. I keep mine in a shed, which has a cement paver floor, but I raised the bin up on a couple of pieces of wood (like paint stirring sticks) to keep it off of the cold floor.
These trays are similar to those used by bakers to stack loaves in, and also greengrocers for the display of fruit and vegetables. I'm in Australia.
Thanks for the encouragement. That's one vote so far. Anyone else? I'm about half serious about it, esp. since the book is half written in this instructable! ;-)
Hi, I just made my own bin last week using empty baby-wipe containers. Used 2: placing one with some drainage holes inside the other one. Worms have been doing well there for the 2nd week. I am using a combination of backyard warms (about 120 of them) and red wigllers (60). So far so good :)
Oh cool! I wondered if I could but my multitude of backyard worms to work!
You're welcome. It's great to have this project still being appreciated after several years. (hm, I wonder if the I-robot will notice if I enter into the laser cutter contest? ;-)~ I keep my worm bin on the floor of my garden shed, where the worms have been doing fine for 10 years. They are sensitive to both heat and cold extremes. Definitely keep them out of direct sunlight, especially since they are in a black box! I've been thinking that I should write a little book about making a worm bin, and care and feeding of the worms. What do you think, Instructables makers?
while I haven't done this project yet, I would suggest going to the hardware or paint store and buying a plastic drop cloth, make sure ya get one of the thicker ones though, and not the really cheap ones....
Sometimes a plastic shower curtain is available at so-called &quot;dollar stores&quot; or &quot;99 cent&quot; stores. That would be in the u. s. of A., dunno about other places.
is it okay to use a nursery flat that has a closed bottom for the base?
Sure, that's the preferred way. Then you can put a plastic valve in one corner so you can drain off the liquid easily. I usually pour mine on plants in the yard immediately after I drain it. The closed bottom flats can be hard to come by for those who don't live in agricultural areas. Please let us know where you get yours. I called the manufacturer of the the flats I used, and it turns out he's making the flats that one of the (expensive) commercial worm bin companies uses. His contract states that he can't sell flats to anyone else for use as worm bins! Anyway, if you have a choice, get the flats that are deeper than the ones I used; mine work fine, but you'll have more capacity if you can get the deeper ones.
Would it be unethical to buy the flats for a crop of fast growing flowers, and then recycle the flats? Since they would be purchased for the purpose of growing flowers.... :)
A few people have commented that Red Wrigglers are an invasive species and you should avoid introducing them into your garden. Although freezing your compost to kill the worms and worm eggs is completely harmless otherwise to your soil in the case of red wrigglers it's not really a necessary step. Some information I found: &quot;The worm predominantly sold for composting is the red wiggler or red tiger worm, Eisenia fetida. It has a rusty brown color with alternating yellow and maroon bands down the length of its body; a pigmentless membrane separates each segment. It grows up to three inches long and is highly prolific. Though the worm has established itself in the wild here, so far it has not been identified as a problem species. Another popular compost species, the red worm, Lumbricus rubellus, is causing trouble, however, and should be avoided. It also grows up to three inches long and has a history of being confused with E. fetida. This worm is dark red to maroon, has a light yellow underside, and lacks striping between segments. &quot; Hope that helps to clear things up. :-)
They also have a company called terracycle who do just about the same thing as in India except they make worm tea and make several other recycled products for the home and garden check out there website at <br />Ctrl+Vhttp://www.terracycle.net/<br />
my brother the fisherman... hahahaha
I saved the round, stackable dehydrator trays after my first dehydrator motor went out. You can buy the plastic screens that fit the trays perfectly if you want a smaller screen. The bottom is already solid eliminating the need to line with plastic. It comes with a lid that is flat. Perfect idea to recycle something that otherwise would be thrown out.
-The holes are triangular and large enough for my worms to pass up and down on the various levels. - The edges are smooth...to make my trays deeper (because each dyhydrator tray is only about 2 inches deep) I actually cut the bottoms out of every other tray, used my dremmel to smooth the edges and glued the empty ring on top of the tray with the aerated bottom to make three levels. -The dehydrator I have has the motor/wires/electrical unit in the top and that I discarded when I burnt up the motor. There are no electrical wires at all in my worm farm. -And no...it is not more efficient to replace the motor...it was just as cheap to buy a new one and save the extra trays for rotation of dehydrating when I had my children at home...they are grown and gone and it was nice to find a use for the extra trays I had taking up space in my pantry. -Finally, I want to thank you for your web site as it was the only one that actually gave the "details" as to what it takes to have a worm farm. This is so fun! :0)
It sounds like that could work. If: - the holes are big enough for adult worms to get through. about 3/16" (a little under 3mm) or larger. - the edges of the holes are not sharp. No sliced worms please. - The holes for any screws or electrical wires in the solid bottom don't leak worm juice. And it might be more efficient to replace the motor on the dehydrator and keep using it! ;-)
It's possible to make a wormery using a concrete slab and old car tires. Place slab on an even surface, put an old newspaper flat on it and place a tire on it. Scrunch up some paper and cardbaord and stuff it inside the tire. Then add some veg peelings/egg shells/untreated cardboard to it and then add worms. Apparently tiger worms work best in wormeries. As you tire fills up, add another one on top. Keep a board on the top to keep flies away from the rotting veg and when it is 4 tires high slide the bottom tire out and use as the contents as compost. Worms aren't too keen on onions or citrus fruit or meats but love all other vegetable/garden waste. Also egg boxes, hair (human or pet), egg shells, vacuum cleaner contents (as long as it is mainly dust and hair), newspaper. Have a look at <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/shop/foundcategory.lasso?category_id=1&amp;-session=shopper:8BB81E13118e220B26Yjrg4C2114">http://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/shop/foundcategory.lasso?category_id=1&amp;-session=shopper:8BB81E13118e220B26Yjrg4C2114</a><br/>as that is where I got my worms and supplies from. <br/><br/>
My worms do have stripes, I wonder if they are named differently in the UK. The tire method sounds like the industrial strength way. Great for larger volume than I produce. I'd leave the bottom out though. My conventional composter has no bottom, just sits on the dirt. The pile has lots of pill bugs and small beetles, both good decomposers, in it. And yes, worms too. Thanks to all for the positive comments and feedback.
Red wiggler compost worms (<em>Eisenia fetida</em>) are also sometimes called red worms, redworms, manure worms, brandling worms, red <em>wrigglers</em>, and tiger worms. They're all the same species. They are by far the most common compost worms.<br/><br/>The only other species in common use is the European Nightcrawler, <em>Eisenia hortensis</em>. African Nightcrawlers, <em>Eudrillus eugeniae</em>, are also starting to become a bit popular.<br/>
"You need to be adding more fibre such as egg cartons and inside of kitchen rolls, or even newspaper. Aim for about a quarter of your waste being this type of material."
Howdy, nice alternative to the store-bought multi-level bins. Those things can be pricey!<br/><br/>I've been vermicomposting for about 5 years now, and I prefer to use a simple wooden box with about 3 square feet of surface area. I find that wood works a bit better than plastic or styrofoam. Wood breathes better, and also absorbs any excess moisture (helps keep the bin from getting wet and smelly).<br/><br/>I have photos up on my blog of the hemlock worm bins I build (sorry, no step-by-step on instructables, yet):<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://vermontworms.com/red-wiggler-compost-worm-bin/">http://vermontworms.com/red-wiggler-compost-worm-bin/</a><br/><br/>Whatever material you use, enjoy vermicomposting. It's pretty neat to see your bin slowly filling up with the richest compost around!<br/>
It turns out that at least one of the commercial bins is actually made from nursery flats, which come from the same manufacturer that my flats did! Sadly, the customer has an agreement with the manufacturer that says he can't sell flats to people who want to make worm bins. I have mixed feelings about links to commercial products in my Instructable. Your product has the disavantage that most one-box worm-bins do: - no separation of various levels of finished compost. - an awful lot of labor to separate the worms from the compost, not to mention sorting uneaten food from the castings. I don't have time or patience for either, so I let the worms do it for me.
Howdy Marcos, any chance you can email the name of that nursery flat manufacturer? We start a <strong>lot</strong> of veggie seeds indoors each year, and I've been looking for nursery flats sturdy enough to use year-after-year.<br/><br/>I do want to try a multi-level worm bin like you've built just to see how well they work. I'll probably make mine out of wood and galvanized 1/8&quot; hardware cloth, however. That will let me make it whatever size I like, probably 2' square. I'll post an instructable if that works out.<br/><br/>As far as the work of harvesting worms/compost goes: it depends. The traditional method of building pyramids of castings and then letting the worms migrate downward into a clump of nearly pure worms as the pile dries is very easy and works pretty well, but does take some time.<br/><br/>I actually built myself a rotary worm harvester this past weekend, which works extremely well. It's a scaled-down and simplified version of commercial trommel screen worm harvesters like this:<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.jetcompost.com/harvesters/2430-2.jpg">http://www.jetcompost.com/harvesters/2430-2.jpg</a>. Another potential Instructable, I suppose.<br/><br/>As far as posting my hemlock worm bin as a &quot;commercial product&quot;, I don't actually sell them at this time. I recommend wood to new worm composters only because I've found it to be more forgiving than plastic. As I said, though, I haven't tried a multi-level bin like that in this Instructable, yet. I would guess that they're less likely to suffer from excessive moisture than the typical Rubbermaid bin that most people start with.<br/>
I just bought a container (45-55) red wigglers from a pet shot for about $4.29 USD- There was about 60 worms inside and many were about 1-2 inches long. May be 2-3 that were about 3 inches. Near a pond, a live bait seller sells 15 for $3 but they are much larger that the ones I bought. Just my 2 cents! :)
Other than in the bottom bin do you routinely add shredded paper to the top bins along with the vegetable scraps?
Yes, the idea is to cover the food scraps. It keeps the fly population down, helps keep things from getting too wet,and provides cover for the worms. If you are starting a new worm bin from scratch, it's a good idea to moisten the paper bedding. You don't want to dehydrate your new friends!
You asked about what other people use in other countries, I lived in SA for 2 years and used old bathtubs (with legs), the drain hole provided the drainage for the worm tea, and I piled stuff on one end (ie 1/3 of the tub) then move to the next 1/3 and when i get to the last 1/3 I harvest the first 1/3. Its a good capacity bin!
SA being South Africa
Good Stuff! Some questions, tho. I see 5 trays in your pics, bedding on the bottom and food on the top, what about the middle trays. Do you put anything in those? Also, the food on the top is not covered? How do you harvest the castings on the bottom if the worms 'like that area for a living room'? Or did I miss something?
You can also get red wigglers for a lot less at the a pet store. Usually near the live fish and lizard food.

About This Instructable




Bio: I love to design and make things; and am currently developing a variety of small consumer products.
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