Sorry, but I do not have any pictures of the real thing, as it broke in a 20 foot fall out of my window. Suprisingly, the camera and LEDs survived, but the monitor and box did not.
This is a submission to the "Make it Real" and "Spy" contests.
Step 1: Materials:
1 x automotive backup camera (avaliable at http://www.amazon.com/Koolertron-License-Plate-Backup-Camera/dp/B0049LBJ56/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1338242181&sr=1-1) $13.1
1 x automotive backup monitor (avaliable at http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_b) $21.7
1 x 9.6V RC car battery (avaliable at http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-2000mAh-NT8S600B-Transmiter-Airplanes/dp/B00384JI3K/ref=sr_1_13?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1338242492&sr=1-13) $8.75
1 x box, I used 6-1/2" x 5" x 3", but anything that fits all the components will work. I made mine from leftover acrylic spray painted black, so cost is neligible.
1 x power switch, avaliable on amazon, or radioshack. $0.5
1 x IR led array (avaliable at http://www.amazon.com/Board-Plate-CCTV-Security-Camera/dp/B0057DPXI4/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1338242899&sr=1-11) $5.6
total price: 49.65
Step 2: Cutting mustard
You will need to cut 2 eyeholes near one side. Make sure they line up with the eyes of whoever will be using them.
Make a nose cutout between and below the eyes.
Cut a hole for the power switch
Cut a 1/8" hole in the front and back of the box, one for the power to the camera and IR LEDS, and for the charging connector in the back.
Step 3: Fill er' up
Charge the battery if it is not, and turn on the power. You should see an image on the LCD screen coming from the camera. The IR LEDs should also light up if you go into a dark room. If they do not, cover the photoresistor with some electrical tape. The photoresistor is the rubber thing on the board that sticks up and has a red-tinted piece of glass on the top.
If the LEDs still do not turn on, check your connections. They will glow dull red to the naked eye, bright pinkish purple to a normal camera, and white to the car backup camera.
If the monitor and/or camera doesn't work, check your connections.
Step 4: You're almost there.
Test it one last time, glue all the wires in place, and seal up the box.
Step 5: You're done!
Notice that though the camera claims to be "infrared" it is actually near-infrared. It will not act as a thermal camera, as heat emits very low-frequency infrared, well below what silicon camera sensors can pick up, even with the IR filter removed.