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Step 12The wireing.
Were getting there!
Alright, here were gonna steal a few more parts from the remote control car, this time we want the heart lol, we need the circuit board out of it, make sure when you take it out, mark the + and - on the wires when you cut them off of the battery box, make sure you mark them, because they might not be red and black, mine were, but i have found some were they were both blue, and another were they were gold and brown lol.
When you remove the circuit board from the car, be very careful not to break any of the wires off of the board. Make sure you have marked your positive and negative wires from the battery case, and make sure you when you remove them, to take the switch with it you will need it, now cut the wires off as close to the battery box and motors as you can, we want plenty of wire to work with.
the very first thing that I did after removing mine, was mount it to the side of the scanner, my reasoning was to have a nice sturdy base to work with. After you mount your circuit board, its time to start wireing, the first thing we need to do here, is hook up a new power source to the board, its very important you dont use to much voltage, and end up burning out the board, use no more than 5 volts, otherwise you might end up damaging the intergrated circuit on the circuit board, I re-used an old cell phone wall charger, it puts out 5 volts DC at 0.75 milliamp's, if you have a transformer with to low of an amp rating, your servos wont move very good, i wouldent use anything less than 0.50 milliamps, I used a 0.35 milliamp transformer the first time, and my servos wouldent move lol.
Cut the end off of the wire on the transformer, just make sure its unplugged lol, strip the ends of the wires, then take a multi meter and test the leads, just touch either lead to either wire, if you have the leads backwards, the screen on the meter will show a - (minus) sign, this is how you can tell which wire is positive and which is negative, after you find this out, make sure you mark them. Now we need to solder the power leads from the board to the transformer leads, so if you marked your wires in the beggining, you just need to solder positive to positive and negative to negative, make sure befor you solder your leads together, you put some heat shrink tubing over the leads, about an inch from the ends, any closer and the heat from the iron, will shrink the tubing in the wrong place, after the leads are soldered in place, slide the tubing over the connections, and heat it with a lighter, careful not to leave it on to long, if you do, it can catch fire. While you are doing this, be careful not to break the wires off the switch.
Now onto the servo wires.
Ok here we will need our capacitors, they MUST be monopolar capacitors. The reason that you have to use monopolar capacitors is because the polarity of the wires feeding our servos will be switching polarity. In essence, if you hook up a polarized cap backwards, it will over heat and the fluid inside will start to boil, and will eventually start to ooze out, and well, it generally just makes a big mess lol, but with monopolar cap's we dont have this problem.
The reason we need the capacitors is because the servos are going to be starting under a load, and the capacitors will help take some of the strain off of the electronics, it wont pull as much spike voltage thru your circuit board, and the motor in the servo itself will start easier, in general, it will extend the life of the electronics. the capacitors are non polarized so it doesnt matter what lead of the servo is soldered to what side of the capacitor. the easiest way to do this, is to bend the capacitor leads towards the front side of the capacitor, and then strip about 1 inch of insulation off of the wires, then, twist the exposed wires together, now take your soldring iron, and heat up the exposed wires and apply some solder to them, make sure to get good coverage over the whole exposed wire, and be carefull not to leave any blobs of solder behind, if you do, just place the iron under them, and after the solder turns back to liquid, pull the iron down the length of the wire quickly, and off of the end,the solder will come with it, now cut some heat shrink tubing, about 1 inch long, and put one on each servo lead, now take the capacitor and set it as close to the insulation on the servo leads as possible, with the bent leads pointing out towards the bare wire, you can wrap the capacitor leads around the wire, it will make it easier to solder them, or just solder them however you normally would. Do this for both servos.
Alright, here were gonna steal a few more parts from the remote control car, this time we want the heart lol, we need the circuit board out of it, make sure when you take it out, mark the + and - on the wires when you cut them off of the battery box, make sure you mark them, because they might not be red and black, mine were, but i have found some were they were both blue, and another were they were gold and brown lol.
When you remove the circuit board from the car, be very careful not to break any of the wires off of the board. Make sure you have marked your positive and negative wires from the battery case, and make sure you when you remove them, to take the switch with it you will need it, now cut the wires off as close to the battery box and motors as you can, we want plenty of wire to work with.
the very first thing that I did after removing mine, was mount it to the side of the scanner, my reasoning was to have a nice sturdy base to work with. After you mount your circuit board, its time to start wireing, the first thing we need to do here, is hook up a new power source to the board, its very important you dont use to much voltage, and end up burning out the board, use no more than 5 volts, otherwise you might end up damaging the intergrated circuit on the circuit board, I re-used an old cell phone wall charger, it puts out 5 volts DC at 0.75 milliamp's, if you have a transformer with to low of an amp rating, your servos wont move very good, i wouldent use anything less than 0.50 milliamps, I used a 0.35 milliamp transformer the first time, and my servos wouldent move lol.
Cut the end off of the wire on the transformer, just make sure its unplugged lol, strip the ends of the wires, then take a multi meter and test the leads, just touch either lead to either wire, if you have the leads backwards, the screen on the meter will show a - (minus) sign, this is how you can tell which wire is positive and which is negative, after you find this out, make sure you mark them. Now we need to solder the power leads from the board to the transformer leads, so if you marked your wires in the beggining, you just need to solder positive to positive and negative to negative, make sure befor you solder your leads together, you put some heat shrink tubing over the leads, about an inch from the ends, any closer and the heat from the iron, will shrink the tubing in the wrong place, after the leads are soldered in place, slide the tubing over the connections, and heat it with a lighter, careful not to leave it on to long, if you do, it can catch fire. While you are doing this, be careful not to break the wires off the switch.
Now onto the servo wires.
Ok here we will need our capacitors, they MUST be monopolar capacitors. The reason that you have to use monopolar capacitors is because the polarity of the wires feeding our servos will be switching polarity. In essence, if you hook up a polarized cap backwards, it will over heat and the fluid inside will start to boil, and will eventually start to ooze out, and well, it generally just makes a big mess lol, but with monopolar cap's we dont have this problem.
The reason we need the capacitors is because the servos are going to be starting under a load, and the capacitors will help take some of the strain off of the electronics, it wont pull as much spike voltage thru your circuit board, and the motor in the servo itself will start easier, in general, it will extend the life of the electronics. the capacitors are non polarized so it doesnt matter what lead of the servo is soldered to what side of the capacitor. the easiest way to do this, is to bend the capacitor leads towards the front side of the capacitor, and then strip about 1 inch of insulation off of the wires, then, twist the exposed wires together, now take your soldring iron, and heat up the exposed wires and apply some solder to them, make sure to get good coverage over the whole exposed wire, and be carefull not to leave any blobs of solder behind, if you do, just place the iron under them, and after the solder turns back to liquid, pull the iron down the length of the wire quickly, and off of the end,the solder will come with it, now cut some heat shrink tubing, about 1 inch long, and put one on each servo lead, now take the capacitor and set it as close to the insulation on the servo leads as possible, with the bent leads pointing out towards the bare wire, you can wrap the capacitor leads around the wire, it will make it easier to solder them, or just solder them however you normally would. Do this for both servos.
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You seem to have slipped a decimal point. 0.75 amps is 750 milliamps, rather high for two small servos, but 0.75 milliamps is way too low. Did you mean 75 milliamps?