This is a stabilised supply intended to be used with a bus powered USB hub in order to deliver a stabilised + 5 volt supply to the devices connected to it.

Due to the resistance of the connecting cable, and the resistances introduced for current sensing for overcurrent protection, the voltage at the hub can be anywhere between +4.5 V(loaded) and +5.5 V. This circuit will deliver a stabilized +5 V in both the cases, ie, it is a buck/boost design, using the TPS63000 switch mode regulator chip manufactured by Texas Instruments.

It can deliver +5 V at 500 mA from input voltages as low as 2 Volts so a rechargeable battery and its (USB powered) charger can be added to make this into a USB UPS for the USB hub.

Step 1: Preparing the circuit board

I decided to do a ground plane based layout. The chip has ten solder pads and a thermal pad to be soldered, and this was a different method to try with these types of leadless packages.

A scrap of single sided paper phenolic copper clad was cut to size and the outline of the chip drawn on its unclad side.

Then with a small screwdriver sharpened into a chisel, material was removed, making a niche for the chip to sit in.
Thanks for posting. I was wondering why you might have changed the value of C1 to 22uF? The reference schematic in the TPS63000 datasheet shows 10uF, which is the maximum allowable decoupling capacitance between Vbus (or Vin in your schematic) and GND. My understanding is if your capacitance is too high, the inrush current which initially charges the decoupling capacitor will exceed the maximum allowable 100mA. This will occur as soon as you plug in, ie before the device has authorised the use of up to 500mA. It probably doesn't matter too much for a DIY project, its just im looking to stay within the USB spec. I was just curious as to whether you are getting better results with 22uF?
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i have a 7 port chip gate from Ti would it work for all 7 port or 4 only ?<br>
i just got one of these chip samples from TI, and after i buggered one of the pins i was looking for other people that may have used the chip. and, lo, i found this page. i need a buck/boost like this for a small solar bike lights project and a solar USB power supply. anyone know where i can get an assembled board like this or any other circuit that will do the job?
I liked the design of the circuit, but the final result... You should try ExpressPCB. It's really easy to use and you can design every circuit you want easily and make pro-looking boards with the toner method. Keep up the effort.
um, what does this do? it does look cool and high tech though but i dont get any of it
It is intended to be a "supply booster" compensating for the inevitable voltage drop along a long USB cable.
much better thanks
Although this project is great, I must admit that the pictures arn't great and it looks as if you did a somewhat messy job with the wiring.
Yes, if I had to do it again I would use a regular printed circuit and take better pictures of the result.
I understand...
Two questions: 1. What is the red wire for around the inductor? 2. Why did you unwind and rewind the inductor?
That red wire goes twelve times round the black core. It IS the inductor. The encapsulated inductor was too large (in relation to the chip) so I was trying to make it smaller by removing the encapsulation. Removing it damaged the winding, so I had no alternative but to rewind it.
the schematic diagram was preety ..the part component was complex
The circuit diagram has been copied from the data sheet by Texas Instruments. The component values were added by an image editor (MS paint). Now that's funny - M/s TI have not yet set up a high squeal about me "stealing" their circuit diagram. Perhaps it might be that their ic will not work if I get too creative with the circuitry around it. What I can get creative with is the way those components can be connected, and I am exploring new ways of prototyping circuits. You do not have to be intimidated by the unorthodox means I have adopted. Texas Instruments, again, have guidelines for PCBs for their ICs and they frequently include layouts in their datasheets. Reading those datasheets will help you decide on a suitable method of construction.
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I am 200% in love with these destroyed-looking devices. Please do an instructable on the saltwater etching process you used in your other usb hub.

About This Instructable


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Bio: Employed as an Engineer in Electronics. Interested in building small circuits around tiny chips (the electronic kind).
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