A cross-cut sled for the table saw is a must have jig for any serious woodworker. More accurate than a miter gauge, it also makes cross-cutting any board easy and safe. However, in order to provide the proper results it must be built with care. I made my first sled last year, following a plan in a popular woodworking magazine. Yet, in a matter of months, the maple runners swelled so much that the sled wouldn't slide in the miter slots. That's when my type "A" personality kicked in and I became determined to learn all I could about the ins and outs of building a cross-cut sled that would last. That research forms the basis for the tips and techniques presented in this instructable. And, while I can't take credit for any of these great ideas, I think you will find the insights of some very talented woodworkers helpful.

Step 1: Tip 1: Milling the Sled Runners

The runners ride in the two miter slots and guide the sled as the workpiece is pushed past the blade. They are most often made from hardwood such as maple or white oak, however, steel, aluminium or plastic runners are also options. Wood runners are more commonly suggested, most likely, because of the moderate cost. The disadvantage of wood runners is that the wood can swell with changes in humidity making smooth travel through the miter slots difficult or impossible.

Tip #1: Since most wood movement is with the grain, mill the sled runners with the grain running vertically as shown in the photo. This will minimize or eliminate side to side expansion of the runner in the miter slot.

Miter slots can vary slightly in size but most are 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep. Most plans call for milling the runners for a snug yet smooth sliding fit with no side to side play (also called slop). However, if the runner width swells too much it can become a problem and, as I mentioned, this is where I ran into trouble with my first sled. The good news: Tip number two allows some wiggle room when milling the runners to width.

Note: The height of the runners should be less than 3/8" so there will be some space under the runner for sawdust debris
Thank you for this. I have been thinking about a crosscut sled. I did buy a book on tablesaws. It mentions European table saws have a slide on one-half of the table that allows the whole half of the table to act like a sled. Those are some really big table saws.
<p>I have slides also on both sides of my small Ryobi 10 in BTS10S saw.It works well but need better center runners.I am also complete new at this.Thank you for all the tips.</p>
<p>I am disable and only get 900.00 a month so everything I do is on the extremely cheap side including dumpster diving for wood..lol.</p>
Woodworking magazines and the Woodsmith Shop TV show on public television all recommend using MDF or hardboard for a large variety of shop built accessory jigs. MDF is extremely strong and I've even built a tool storage cabinet from an magazine project plan using 3/4&quot; MDF. 1/4&quot; hardboard is a similar material that Is also used for building jigs ( and, for example, as drawer bottoms). Both materials are a combination of fine wood fibers (sawdust) and glue fused together with heat and pressure. Both materials come in varying thicknesses and the appearance or color may vary by manufacturer but I have never heard of different grades of MDF or hardboard.
<p>I have a question about mdf. I have watched Norm Abrams build a mailbox post and bracket from mdf. Now, you are building a crosscut sled with it. The product I find at Home Depot looks like pressed paper and is heavy as all get out. I can't believe it would have either the moisture resistance to be a mailbox post exposed to the weather or a useful sled subject to abrasion and wear. If there are different grades of mdf, what are they and where can it be found?</p>
<p>Tip #3, step 4 states: &quot;4) Clean up the the faces (and ends if necessary) by using a finishing blade and making a fine cut pass on the table saw&quot;. </p><p>What is a &quot;finishing blade&quot;? Is that just a table saw blade for fine cuts?</p>
Right on. The more teeth, the cleaner (smoother) the cut. The blade I used has 80 teeth. You just want to skim the workpiece with the blade, removing just enough material to even out and smooth all sides of the fences.
Great detail Ken. That takes a lot of time.
<p>I got my cutting boards at Sams Club pretty cheap.</p>
Kent, for the fences did you consider using the face of multiple, glued 1/2&quot; MDF pieces rather than the edges? Wouldn't that eliminate the need to true up the face with a scraper and table saw, and give you a nice smooth surface? <br><br>thanks,<br><br>Alex
All the tips I suggested in my instructable were compiled from woodworking magazine articles (like fine woodworking) or associated websites so I'm not going to second guess the pro's. However, experimenting and trying different techniques is part of the fun of woodworking.
Interesting project! <br> <br>A hopefully helpful comment - have you considered using poly plastic runners as guides? I had the same problems with wood runners: shrinking, swelling, splintering, wearing grooves, etc. <br> <br>I saw a big $$ factory sled with plastic runners- polyethelene. I didn't want to spend good money on plastic- I found that a 1/2&quot; thick poly kitchen cutting board would provide all the plastic strips I needed. This poly plastic material is easy to cut with regular shop tools, including a jointer! My first set of poly runners lasted longer than the sled! <br> <br>When I visit the thrift stores, I always look over the kitchen wares area and I have collected a good number of poly cutting boards, a few almost a full inch thick! Of course, one could pay full price for some virgin poly, but it's not necessary. <br> <br>Keep having fun in your shop, but keep it safe!
<p>I like using poly for the runners also, but one hint. Don't use screws with a tapered head to attach them. Make sure the screws have a squared shoulder that will fit flat in the mounting hole.</p><p>The poly is so soft that a screw with a tapered head will push the poly material out on the sides. This makes it stick in the miter slots.</p><p>I got my cutting boards at Sams Club pretty cheap.</p>
Another cool idea! Thanks for your input. Definitely worth trying.
<p>look this</p><p><a href="http://www.eftiaxa.gr/2014/11/13/%CF%83%CF%85%CF%81%CF%8C%CE%BC%CE%B5%CE%BD%CE%BF-%CF%84%CF%81%CE%B1%CF%80%CE%AD%CE%B6%CE%B9-%CE%B4%CE%B9%CF%83%CE%BA%CE%BF%CF%80%CF%81%CE%AF%CE%BF%CE%BD%CE%BF%CF%85-cross-cut-sled/" rel="nofollow">http://www.eftiaxa.gr/2014/11/13/%CF%83%CF%85%CF%8...</a></p><p>and the Trigonometry details in the regulation of Cross Cut Sled with the 4 cuts</p><p><a href="http://www.eftiaxa.gr/2015/03/19/%CE%BB%CE%B5%CF%80%CF%84%CE%BF%CE%BC%CE%AD%CF%81%CE%B5%CE%B9%CE%B5%CF%82-%CF%84%CF%81%CE%B9%CE%B3%CF%89%CE%BD%CE%BF%CE%BC%CE%B5%CF%84%CF%81%CE%AF%CE%B1%CF%82-%CF%83%CF%84%CE%B7%CE%BD-%CF%81%CF%8D/" rel="nofollow">http://www.eftiaxa.gr/2015/03/19/%CE%BB%CE%B5%CF%8...</a></p>
<p>This may not be of much help now, and maybe it won't matter to you. But on most saws, you can adjust the table in relationship to the blade. On most of the ones I've done, it's a simple job requiring you to loosen the table fasteners just a bit, then tap it around until you get a nice true reading with a dial indicator mounted in a miter slot. </p>
Great instructable! Do you have any trouble with the MDF warping or expanding?
MDF <em><strong>and</strong></em> Plywood are both very stable materials. For this reason you don't need to worry about warping or expansion when using them on a project.
My question is I have a craftsman circular saw mounted under a 3/4 piece of wood. The miter slots are of wood. My sled rides free and clear. I have run out with a brand new blade. A small width piece of wood is real close with a carpenters square but as the width <br>increases so does accuracy. How do I compensate with run out of circular saw? Any ideas would be helpful. Kevin
My question is: Why not build a whole sled in one piece with the blade all the way down, turn the saw on and slowly raise the blade up and run the sled through to make the perfect slot?
That's the way it is usually done, which is why this approach intrigued me so much. I liked the fact that it allowed me to mill runners to fit the miter slots with a little play in them. When the halves are pulled together the runners both press on the blade side of the miter slots providing a smooth, accurate slide to the sled. The benefit as I saw it was that now I didn't have to worry about the runners ever binding in the slots, which can happen when you mill them for a snug, sliding fit as recommended in traditional sled designs.
For me, this is the clearest and easist to follow description of how to construct a sled I've seen. Thanks for that.
Good ideas, I would suggest finishing the whole thing before attaching the Masonite, as MDF will accept moisture and swell badly if in a humid situation. Also I slightly bevel the long runner edges facing away from the main board so the unit drops into the slots easier. I usually use 3/8&quot; Teflon sheet for the runners, you can get it from plastic suppliers.
UHMW costs less than Teflon, works great, available from McMaster. It's also good for things like oar lock sockets.
Best thing I've ever used is Phenolic, but its nasty on tools and smells horrible.
I screw the runners on as the Teflon does not glue. <br>
Very impressive for only 1000 of the requisite 10000 hours ;) Actually, it is very good looking. One thought from a fellow who has built a couple of these (albeit no where near as pretty) over the years and thought to pass along a thought about the guide rails / runners. The composite 'lumber' sold for decks might prove more stable and slippery and less susceptible to moisture-induce swelling. And, it would only take a free scrap or two from a neighbor's deck project to suffice for a few sleds or similar jigs. <br> <br>I used a piece of this stuff to make a threshold a year or so back and found it milled well (ran it through my planner on a sled to create the trapezoid shape needed for the application) and has worn well in the elements ever since. <br> <br>Again, nice project.
Very creative suggestion. It sure beats spending money on expensive plastic or metal runners.
Great job as usual, Kent. Appreciate the &quot;tip&quot; approach, each one can be utilized independently. The use of MDF ad hardboard is great; they are flat, smooth, true materials. No need to go to plywood. <br>Wow, where did you get those great large triangles?. <br> <br>Thanks much, <br>Bill <br> <br>
Thanks for the nice comments. It's always a pleasure hearing from you. The drafting triangles belonged to my father who was a professional artist. Inexpensive plastic ones would be just as good and should be readily available at any craft or art supply store.
Kent, I have about a dozen triangles, dating back to my first college drafting class in 1963. But the triangles your dad used are unique due to their size. Larger is better!
Thanks! I learned some things in this and that's always good. I need to make this sled: I've always hesitated on using the table saw w/o one, especially if you work alone. I also need wing supports for a 4x8 sheet work. thanks for this instructable! The 5 cut test was a cool concept. I snagged those swf files for ref :-)
Spot on old chap, <br>it's such an elegant solution. It creates such a &quot;Dho!&quot; moment then &quot;Why aren't they sold like that.&quot; Thank you for telling us about it and illustrating the job so well. <br>JTD
This is something I will probably actually do, unlike most of the instructables I see.
Very very good, congratulations. Please allow me make a suggestion to complement your project and security. <br> <br>Sorry I can't insert the image, so I post the link: <br>http://api.ning.com/files/TmSqT3jmw6UdFXdU5JCXrzIYwKtReo5kdTiSWNw1S-*7D10e*02DpRibUvR7MDL9s-gvBI7bwDcaKNe2jyNAfVmnk*VSIW1xeyWw6tHRpxg_/CCSled.jpg?width=721
My only major problem I found is cutting the sled in half at stage #2, This will make the board out of square at this stage and every attempt at squaring it later will cause extra work. <br>The way to accomplish the same goal is to mount the fence to the large piece of MDF as shown later on, mount one side of the fence, true it up with a square, then screw in the other side of the fence. <br>Using all these framing squares is eliminated and the sled should be at 90 degrees.
Building the sled from separate pieces isn't something I came up with. This is the approach taken by a professional woodworker named Alan Turner and the technique can be found at finewoodworking.com. There is certainly nothing wrong with the traditional method you prefer. However, I do disagree that building the sled the way I describe will make the board out of square. Remember, each half has the excess cut off using the runners to create a perfect zero clearance on each side of the blade. Once the halves are clamped together, you still have to square the fence to the sawblade when mounting the rear fence which is the same method you describe. I guess if you were concerned about not being able to rip a squared piece of MDF in two accurately you could cut each piece individually. Then you wouldn't have to cut the sled base in two at all.
All I am saying is by not cutting the board in half there is only one piece, squared already and when the fence is attached it is squared to the sled. Then the initial rip mad in the center of the sled, cutting out all the measuring and aligning done with the triangle squares you show. <br>Your way is fine, if you want to do it that way as you said my way is fine too. I watch a lot of youtube too and read Wood Magazine and most show it being made as I suggested. The sled made, the right or left side of the sled is attached to the fence and then squared and the sled clamped, then screwed in place when it is squared, then the center line sawn.
What if your table saw doesn't have miter slots ? I have a ryobi contractor saw on a folding base... thoughts ?
they make bolt on slots for that saw and sell on ebay to guide tools
It's like this saw but 1-2 generations older: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-10-in-Table-Saw-with-Wheeled-Stand-RTS31/202517812#.Uk5ShCgukmI -- the left side of the table slides and has a couple keyhole slots for bolts... I guess you could rig something up that way and have a guide off the right side of the table to keep things square..
No miter slots is new to me also. But maybe you can accomplish the same objective by putting the runners outside the saw table, so they hug the edges.. They would be like outriggers that guide the sled along the outer edges of the table. Same principle, but I do not know your saw. Worth looking into, the sled is a really valuable addition. <br> <br>Good luck.
No miter slots? That's a new one on me. I don't have any suggestions, sorry.
Personally, I thought your instructions were brilliant and clear. I have a really inexpensive table saw and I know that a really good sled will improve my cuts. I've thought about it for a long time. I'm satisfied after reading and seeing what you've done that I was thinking correctly and now I feel confident that I can do this, too. Really appreciated the tips, especially the hardboard. Best tip of them all. Thanks.
I'm definitely with Joelav about putting a blade guard on the back. I also like put a red line on all my jigs indicating any place where the blade might be. If your thumb is on the red line, maybe you should move it.
Nice sled BTW. <br>
Enjoyed your instructable. I particularly like that you use a pop-up contractors saw ... it is identical to mine. I don't often see jigs/fixture/tips that work for the smaller saws like ours.
That's a nice, simple sled. Great tip on using the quartersawn faces for runners. I haven't had any trouble with my runners when using the quartersawn faces. There are a few things I feel it is important to mention.<br> <br> 1 - I like to have a blade guard on the back. It ruins the aesthetics of the sled, but is important. When cutting thick pieces, the blade can exit through the back of the fence posing a safety hazard - especially when you aren't expecting it to be there.<br> <br> 2 - I would advise against using automotive polishes on woodworking jigs or equipment. They have a high silicone content which can react negatively with stains and finishes; and are very difficult to remove from wood once contact is made. Instead, try using Johnson's paste wax.<br> <br> To get the utmost precision form the sled, I use the &quot;5 cut method&quot; to square the fence. It takes a bit of tinkering, but getting accuracy of .001&quot; over 12&quot; is not too difficult. This is the best description of the process I have come across: <a rel="nofollow">http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/five_cut_method_swf.htm</a>
Thanks for your comments. I saw your cross-cut sled shortly after posting mine and it is definitely state of the art. There are so many great ideas floating around the internet that it pays to do some research and figure out what best suits a persons individual needs. I try to write my instructables to show woodworkers relying on basic power tools and jigs that we aren't limited in creating complex, high quality projects. <br>FYI, you are absolutely correct in your comments. Johnson's paste wax is explicitly recommended for waxing saw tops and sleds. I should have been more specific and I have updated my instructable thanks to your comment. Oddly, I've never had a problem applying a finish to any of my products and I've used Turtle Wax (not sure of the chemical composition) on my saw in the past. I wonder if the fact that I'm very thorough when sanding my projects has any bearing on this?

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