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In this Instructable I'll show you 6 Ways to Plug or Fill Pocket Holes with a variety of methods. I'll break down the 6 ways into 3 fillers and 3 plugs made from wood. Each of these has their pro's and con's and I'll cover each of them in detail along with application methods and results after sanding to 150 grit.

If you want to see a little more detail and a quick jig I made to cut the plugs for my favorite method (#6) then you can head over to my 6 Ways to Plug or Fill Pocket Holes post on my site.

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Step 1: Get Your Materials and Tools

Here is what you'll need for the build. The links below are affiliate links and help support my channel and let me build more projects.

Tools Used

Materials/Supplies

<p>#7: dry-wall patch. You apply with a putty knife and be sure to leave it proud to the wood--it will shrink. VERY easy to sand to a flat final surface for painting. The bad parts are that there is NO WAY for this to be stained or the like to look like wood. It's white and will stay white. The other bad is that if something pokes it later, it can dent. This is not as bad as it sounds as it requires a direct and pointed hit. That's actually hard to do.</p>
<p>Yeah, I thought about using drywall mud, but figure it was pretty close to wood filler. It's a lot cheaper than wood filler though for sure!</p>
And it sands a whole lot easier. Besides the issue that it &quot;bangs&quot; quite different from wood (when struck from an object). Also, it does take a bit more prep for painting: you must do an undercoat and sand, then it will finish as if solid wood.
<p>For the sawdust &amp; glue solution standard PVA glue is never going to work on holes that deep because it will never set once the surface dries. It's a great &amp; easy trick for shallow holes, dents and scratches because you can match the timber colour instantly but for deep holes you need an epoxy or resin glue that doesn't air-dry. I'd use Cascamite powered resin (aka Polymite) - it mixes with water, sets rock-solid and is a lot easier to use than a two-part epoxy.</p>
<p>Good point about the glue.</p>
<p>Great video. How would each of these look if you wished to stain them? I wouldn't expect the Bondo to stain at all. Thereby eliminating one great filler option.</p>
<p>Thanks! Yeah, i want to try and stain them soon.</p>
<p>Thanks a lot for sharing this was very useful info!</p>
<p>you're welcome!</p>
<p>For the best finish try a combination of plug &amp; filler. Insert a dowel rod into your hole, then extract slightly before cutting flush. Your plug can then be tapped into the hole leaving it sitting slightly below the surface. The resulting hollow can then be filled with your filler of choice. This method limits any shrinkage &amp; allows the filler to dry quickly &amp; completely.</p>
That's a great idea! Never thought of that.
<p>Good info but Epoxy works better and I just grab a hand full of sawdust from under the saw then put it through a coffee grinder. I use System Three Epoxy, the two to one mix and you will be able to sand it out the next day.</p>
<p>Yeah, I wondered about epoxy. Good tip on the sawdust.</p>
<p>You are a very good teacher! I like the straight dowel method the best, as do you. Please keep these videos coming. I would like to see you instruct on how to use Kreg pocket hole jigs.</p>
<p>Thanks for the feedback!</p>
<p>so I type out a nice long post only to find I have to log in in order to post it. I log in and, of course, the message has been wiped. Don't feel like doing all that again. Stupid setup.</p>
<p>thank you for the wonderful and insightful comment I'm sure you wrote :)</p>
<p>^Hahahahaaaa! well timed.</p><p>I am using glue/sawdust atm, until I can get a press jig made for the corded drill, when I have a drill press available, I use some 3&quot; plug cutter bits I picked up at woodworker supply, I like them because I can use the pocket hole bit &amp; the plugs I make for doweling/temporary bench dogs/getting rid of bad nail holes in re-purposed lumber/making a hole for whatever reason &amp; then being able to plug it. The plug cutters are also cool because I can go down the grain, or across,,,or some weird angle if I have reason/desire. </p><p> About the sawdust method, if you mix in a fraction of water to the glue (before adding the sawdust) it is a bit more workable,,,still takes over 24hrs to set up good, and it shrinks a bit more than straight-up glue. Also, check your putty knife, I have stainless now, but first time I had a steel one, and it caused the mixture to darken terribly. </p><p> Oh, and about the dowels, Don't square off the end that goes into the pocket hole, cut it back something like 45Deg, and keep the longest...side(??) oriented towards the surface. the screw heads can cause a gap when you plug it, and the 45 degree cut should let it slip past the screw head enough to cover it from the surface...I really hope that made sense..</p>
<p>Thanks for the tips! I didn't think about mixing the sawdust and glue a little thinner. That would have helped because it was a huge muck of a mess and wouldn't go together well. I get ya on cutting the dowel on an angle, but it's an added step I probably won't do since I get good results without it. Thanks!</p>
<p>A question before I deal with filling the pocket holes: when I screw the screw into the pocket hole to join two boards, about 1/16&quot; of the screw head remains above the surface of the wood. The screw head does fit snugly against the pocket shoulder. Am I cutting the pocket wrong? Am I doing something else stupid?</p>
<p>Yup, I think eric is correct. Either you don't have the drill bit collar set right, or if you are using 1/2&quot; plywood this will also happen just due to the lack of thickness in the material. Check all your settings, but if it's in 1/2&quot; ply that's just the way it works unfortunately.</p>
<p>It's 5/4 southern yellow pine I'm connecting. The collar height seems the most likely cause. Thanks!</p>
<p>Also make sure the jig is set to the right material thickness. They all work together.</p>
<p>I'm not certain that I fully understand what you're describing. But I think you likely need to adjust the depth stop on the drill bit you're using to drill the pockets so that it goes a bit deeper. </p>
<p>I never had problems with sawdust and glue (pva glue). it takes about 24 hours to dry, but the advantage is you get 'the nearest wood color filled hole'. Maybe your composition wasn&acute;t right, or the glue itself was the wrong kind? Don&acute;t keept the glue-sawdust paste too wet, and not too dry either. And try instead of glue some varnish with sawdust. it works almost the same as glue.</p>
<p>Yeah, I know I didn't get the mix just right. Think I had too much glue. Thanks</p>
<p>My favorite is Durhams Rock Hard water putty. It comes as a powder and you mix it with water and dries hard. You can also use 5 min. epoxy to almost fill the hole, let it dry and then top it off with the saw dust mix. It will dry faster since it won't be as thick. Use the sawdust from your project so it will stain to match.</p>
<p>Good tips!</p>
<p>thanks for the info. I am retired so wood filler and bondo seem easy enough.</p>
<p>If you've got the time, they are great! :)</p>
<p>If you stain afterwards, which looks best?</p>
<p>A matched species wood plug will always be best.</p>
<p>Great Instructable. Thanks for going over the various methods. I only use the sawdust/glue method for smaller holes like brad nails. Don't mix it, just put a small amount of glue in the hole and use your hand to gently wash some sawdust over it. Let it dry then brush away the extra dust. I've also done this with deck screw holes, but it takes more sawdust and time. The benefit of using this method to cover screw holes is ease of removing the screw. Your bit will cut through the glue/dust plug and you can extract the screw. It's much harder with a wood plug. Thanks again, next time I'll use your recommended method for pocket holes.</p>
<p>Thanks! I'll try that with the glue.</p>
<p>Good write-up! I personally use option 6 too. It's cheap, and I'm guaranteed a perfect flush finish that's easy to do over and over. Well done :) </p>
<p>Thanks! The dowel method is so easy and quick!</p>
<p>What if you cut the dowel more than twice as long as you needed, the &quot;waste&quot; end left after flush cutting could be a new plug, again left proud for flush cutting?</p>
<p>Even less. A 2&quot; dowel will do exactly that vs. the 1.5&quot; for the straight cuts. I had thought about presenting that, but since I hate the install of an angled dowel so much I left it out. But this is absolutely the most efficient use of material. Good observation :)</p>
<p>Actually, 1.5 times the length might do it.</p>
<p>Just a thought, but if you are going to have to use a flush cut saw anyway, why bother with the angle cutting jig?</p><p>Just chop off square and push in. There's no fiddling with getting the angled bit in the right position. </p><p>Ok, it may waste a tiny bit more 3/8th dowel but the savings in time are pretty significant.</p><p>The kreg plugs are cut so that the direction of grain matches. The kreg plug cutter also allows grain matching.</p><p>Jon</p><p>P.S. I'm using round head pozi screws with washers to save a LOT of money on the Kreg branded screws. An 8 fits well with a M5 washer. </p>
<p>Yup, you'e spot on, Jon. That's why I say I'll never use that method again. I am a firm believer in #6. Good tip on the pozi screws</p>
<p>What about the Kreg plug machine... it allows you to match the wood to the plug with your off cuts. </p>
<p>Yup, but it costs $70 and works with a $100 K4/K5. This was geared at low barrier to entry. I'm sure it's a great jig if you can afford it.</p>
<p>If you don't have a flush cut saw, you can make the Kreg store-bought plugs fit better by cutting them a bit shorter, from the less-angled side. You can position them pretty much flush, so it's easy to just finish with just a bit of sanding.</p>
<p>good tip!</p>
<p>Hi, very nice Ible!</p><p>What is the name of the board you cut to build your samples? (te ones you drilled pocket holes in and assembled) Where do you get those please?</p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Just some 3/4&quot; leftover plywood. </p>
<p>i've wanted to fill my pine projects with 3/8&quot; dowels and cut as in #6 before, but in a metric system country, 3/8&quot; dowels are so hard to get!! I've considered buying some in the US but the shipping to NZ costs like 3x more than the dowels itself </p>
titebond III is a glue you can buy that comes with saw dust in it and it's food grade and water proof
<p>It's hard to prove a negative, but I believe you're wrong on TBIII containing wood. Went to their web site and found nothing on it having any. Plus, why wiuld you want to have a glue with maybe the wrong color wood in it when you can mix your own sawdust in it?</p>

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