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27 comments
Feb 1, 2012. 10:33 AMSworch says:
I'm a licensed electrician and while I hate to be negative, this is a fairly risky approach to this problem. While having a timer control an outlet is perfectly reasonable method, jerry-rigging the construction is not. What should be done here, baring consulting an electrician, is to use the following:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_112447-427-915C_4294821893_4294937087_?productId=3127553&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_Electrical%2BBox%2BCovers_4294821893_4294937087_%3Fpage%3D6%26Ns%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&facetInfo=

for the cover,

http://www.lowes.com/pd_70965-427-8232_4294821892_4294937087_?productId=3129407&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_Electrical%2BBox_4294821892_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&facetInfo=

for the box,

and this type set up:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_172498-46-4317824_0__?productId=3235312&Ntt=appliance+cord&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dappliance%2Bcord&facetInfo=

to supply the power.


While cutting up a plastic cover is probably going to work out just fine for the outlet/timer, hacking up the multiplug and then gluing/soldering it in place is a bad idea. Considering that the point of this is to protect the user from accidents involving potentially dangerous, high amperage equipment, you should not rely on improvised soldering on a damaged piece of equipment to safely supply the power. This is asking for some serious trouble.

Again, I don't mean to bash at all. You are correct that basic electrical wiring is not "rocket science" but it is something that has to be done right. My customers always say that electrical work is the one thing they are afraid of doing themselves. My response is always that electricity is not something to fear but it is something you must respect. The bottom line is that the consequences of something going wrong with this stuff can be real bad real fast. Please be safe.

Feb 24, 2012. 6:34 AMmr_cool says:
I am a licensed ham operator, and I'm afraid I must agree with sworch. High amperage electrics should not be dealt with kludged materials. It's much better to purchase the items that sworch suggests. It only takes 1A to kill someone and most kitchen appliances draw about 8-12A(toasters, coffee makers and the like) The receptacles are fused at 15A. This is a fire in the making. Please respect electricity. It is truly a force of nature not to be fooled with!

Best Regards (73 in HAM lingo)
Feb 7, 2012. 5:48 PMbrettj1 says:
Yes I agree with sworch. I am also an electrical tradesman I think you would be better off buying 1 of the many comercially made plug in timers there are lots of them around on E bay & the local hardware stores.

I am not trying to be nasty in any way but I can see that this could be dangerous in many ways in the hands of inexperianced people.

The thing I tell people that do thier own electrical work is
Are you willing to risk the life of your family members & children if you make a mistake.
Feb 5, 2012. 1:23 PMklixtopher says:
Thanks for speaking up Sworch. I'm also an electrician and have seen way too many situations involving those multi-tap receptacles. Multi-taps are constructed cheaply and are susceptible to over load - particularly with heating devices (eg. curling irons). I have seen too many browned and melted taps (in factory condition) too recommend this. Also, depending on your region using something like this could void your fire insurance. The same project made with approved (not tampered with) materials would be perfectly acceptable - like Sworch said.

Cbaabc73 - please don't let us discourage you from making more Instructables. The concept, presentation and final appearance are all great.
I look forward to seeing what else you bring to this community!
Jan 28, 2012. 6:18 PMPhil B says:
I have thought about something like this for MP3 players to which I listen while I am falling asleep. Of course, those players would be playing off of AC power rather than batteries, which I can do. My one question is do you find the timer at common hardware stores and home improvement stores? I do not remember seeing them. Thanks.
Jan 29, 2012. 5:25 AMPhil B says:
Thank you. I will check on it. Lowe's is a favorite store.
Feb 6, 2012. 6:47 AMdagaherz says:
bufff!!
I visited that store site and... not recommend it at all
Even that timer... uf! so expensive 16$!!!! Read comments of customers, talking about bad construction in addition.
I think I can buy one here in Spain and send you (paying sending expenses) and it is cheaper for you!!!
Another option is a digital one with a plug on it, which you can program for the whole week (if your wife has same time to do house things (for about <6$)

Why not using ?
Feb 16, 2012. 2:58 PMKnurft says:
Oh! Im actually also looking for something like this to prevent me from leaving on the toaster - but im not that amazing with high voltage electronics.

I would ike to buy one but i cant find a mechanical one like the one you posted on the left! Where did you find the picture? I would like to know which shop it is!
Feb 16, 2012. 5:13 PMdagaherz says:
I am afraid that photo is not from a shop but from my camera... hehehe
and edited in Photoshop.
I bought several in Brico-depôt (belongs to Kingfisher group, I do not know if you have any one close to you)
And the price was less than 4€ (It was an offer, usually about 7€)
And, watching their site..., e-commerce-less, sorry
Feb 18, 2012. 10:56 AMKnurft says:
Nope i cant find it here in holland :) 4 euros is a steal...! Thanks for your info!
Feb 5, 2012. 8:08 PMGOINGER says:
Hey there all you folks with knowledge of the volts amps business, what type of wind up timer could I use for my Electric vehicle charger? Its on a 220 line and draws up to 30 amps
Feb 8, 2012. 2:53 PM2ManyProjects says:
Look at water heater timers. This one is 40 amps 208-277V

http://www.intermatic.com/Products/TimeSwitches/Electromechanical_Switches/SpecialtySwitches/Mechanical_Water_Heaters.aspx
Feb 7, 2012. 5:08 PMapplesaucemodifier says:
I've had this in my garage for a couple years now.
The only way to activate the two plugs is to select a time (10, 20, 30, 60 min) but the switch controls the bottom outlet, allowing individual appliances to be turned on and off. I use the switch to plug in my soldering iron.
This partly came around because i was asked to keep from burning the house down because I would regularly keep soldering iron running. However the timer is also handy for saving electricity on lighting and vampire power to all the garage appliances.
Feb 6, 2012. 7:29 AMWest Meade Willie says:
Computer/printer etc. power cords are usually lying around from the "last computer I will ever buy" and so are "free." "power IEC 320 EN 60320 C3 - F - power NEMA 5-5 - M"

You can buy the socket for that type of cord from surplus supply outlets such as Mouser Electronics: Mouser Part #: 562-716W-X2/02
Manufacturer Part #: 716W-X2/02
Manufacturer: Qualtek
Description: Power Entry Modules SNAP-IN MNT SLDR

This could be easily attached to the "box" you are using. This would eliminate the cutting and gluing of the male plug.
Feb 5, 2012. 10:18 PMrpar42 says:
Be careful using PC power cords as they are only 16 or 18 gauge wire and therefore can't carry as much amperage.
Feb 5, 2012. 8:55 PMebergh says:
I went the route of replacing the box in the wall with a double wide one to hold a duplex outlet and a mechanical 60min timer wired to it, using an off the shelf combo wall plate. The end result is nice and clean, and the wife just plugs her hair curlers in and gives the knob of the timer a whirl. No more driving back to the house to make sure they are unplugged!

However, gone are the days when we can recharge an electric toothbrush in the bathroom, or plug in a space heater in the winter to keep it warm in there... I made BOTH outlets controlled to the timer! Maybe not such a good idea, but it does make it simpler for her to remember :)
-e
Feb 5, 2012. 1:35 PMWinbookXL3 says:
great looks nice looks like i can buy that at a store nice!, BTW is it city proof do need a permit to make this? will it self cause a fire for using that it looks great BTW good job keep up the great work i make one for a pool pump so i wont have too turn it self off ever out i can put this turn the nob and its done!
Feb 5, 2012. 11:17 AMjolshefsky says:
I use something similar for my bathroom space heater and for the toaster/oven! Too bad the mechanical wind-down timers are getting more rare; the pushbutton electronic ones tend to have buttons that wear out after just a few years (mine still works but requires extra presses to engage).
Feb 5, 2012. 8:59 AMRoboDon2 says:
Been making these for years. I use old PC power cords for the line in. Just chop off the PC end and wire to the timer. I also have used the boxes with four outlets and the PC power cords for just making handy 4 outlet boxes. More heavy duty than your normal plastic 6 outlet type. If you're good at electronics you can even add an MOV and circuit breaker to make them surge protectors. I haven't done any with GFI but that would be good for outdoor with power tools.
Feb 2, 2012. 10:04 PMplehmann says:
please ensure that the photos you take are at least in focus... thanks
Feb 2, 2012. 6:21 AMdmorrow-1 says:
The one plug was used for the plugs in the back of the unit. Since this is a unit which can be moved from room to room, it would need that set of plugs in the back.

I personally would rather build this to be IN the wall, using a combo wall plate to finish it. Wiht this, I can see a) the wife gets tired of using the timer and pulls the unit out of the wall or b) the weight of the cord and box pulls it out of the wall.
Feb 1, 2012. 1:19 PMvernhart says:
Why not spend an extra 88 cents and use a pre-cut wall plate? Such as: combo wall plate
Feb 1, 2012. 2:52 PMJKPieGuy says:
I agree and what was the point of taking apart the one plug?
Feb 1, 2012. 12:36 PMdailyglen says:
Hi,

I like your design. It looks like you are plugging this into a wall outlet. To make something easier couldn't you expand your outlet in the wall by 2 and add the timer beside it? Did you consider going this route?

I wonder if there is a better part to buy to use for the metal male plugs on the back. I would only want one plug and to attach an extension cord to it.

Thanks.
Feb 1, 2012. 5:41 AMCementTruck says:
I had an idea to do this very thing and use it at my soldering station. Good one.

I also wanted to control an outlet with a rheostat (dimmer) for a cheap, temperature controlled soldering iron hack.
Jan 29, 2012. 11:36 AMRaisedByRobots says:
I've been thinking of something like this for quite a while, thank you!

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