If you don't feel like gathering all stuff yourself, you can buy a kit with all needed parts and a pre-programmed microcontroller at the Tinker Store.
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Signing UpStep 1: Parts and Tools
- ATTINY2313V-10PU, microcontroller, 2 k flash RAM, Digikey
- LEDMS88R, 8 * 8 LED matrix, Futurlec
- Battery holder with switch for two AA batteries, Digikey
- 2 AA batteries or rechargeables
And as you see, there are no resistors. Normally you would need a resistor to limit the current through the LEDs. We are a bit adventurous here and attach the LED matrix the Evil-Mad-Scientist-way directly to the controller. The controller enables only one row at a time and cycles thru all rows that fast, that a steady image emerges.
With two AA batteries the display ran over two weeks non-stop. Battery life depends a bit on how much pixels are lit at the same time.
To build it, you need:
- Soldering iron and solder
- Pliers
- Wire stripper or knife
- Alligator clips
- Third hand (optional)













































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I rewrote your program to get significant more space for dozens of patterns.
Further I changed to a better readable (larger) 5x7 font.
I also reworked the nice pattern generator as excel sheet from http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Scolling-Dot-Matrix-Font-Graphics-Generator-/
Now you can copy the code from excel sheet directly in your program.
My ATTINY2313 without V goes down until 1,8V @ 4Mhz.
PS: Your nice LEDMS88R with rectable LED are hard to purchase in Germany ;-)
I used a cheap 8x8 32mm LED Matrix with the same pin layout (!)
Google for: 12088AMR
he send from Poland to all Europe
Tomas
* NFM-12883 common anode |
* A0B5B4D4B2D3D1D0 +-----+
* PD5 o o o o o o o o | |
* PA1 o o o o o o o o _+_ |
* PB0 o o o o o o o o \ / |
* PD2 o o o o o o o o _V_ |
* PB7 o o o o o o o o | |
* PB1 o o o o o o o o ---+-----C---
* PB6 o o o o o o o o |
* PB3 o o o o o o o o
*
But My LED matrix is ( See the pic)
Please teach me, how to modify it ??? Thanks you very much.
I bought your Kit and a cheap USB ISP and worked the first time with Microcontrollers.Awesome !
But I still don`t understand how to make my own pictures and change the scroll or repeat animation...:how to change pixels? the signs on the right to hex!?!?!
0x18, // ___XX___
0x3C, // __XXXX__
0x7E, // _XXXXXX_
i wanna start with the first animation,not scrolled,then change the picture/animation....a hint would be nice :-)
bless,maomakmaa
I flashed a couple of 2313 and succesfully burnt the right fuses but now I am interested in making some PCBs cause I dont like soldering chips directly to the matrix.
what is the next step? A circuit diagram would be awesome at this point.
Again( I'm such a geekou) thanks for some help in my process
This is a christmas card with ATTINY2313 and 8x8 Matrix LED
here a video from 64pixels with all patterns
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sncy6wHNnMc
source code below
----------------------------------------
AVR Memory Usage
----------------
Device: attiny2313
Program: 2034 bytes (99.3% Full)
(.text + .data + .bootloader)
Data: 18 bytes (14.1% Full)
(.data + .bss + .noinit)
Can editing the animations be done in a similar matter?
Also the text scrolls right to left and animations move left to right. Is it possible to have animations move from top to bottom or vice versa?
Yes, you can have animations going from top to bottom. Take a look at the scroll_animation method. You have to replace the x with y direction.
i really thought LOLWTF?!
this was in the code from line 32~43
const prog_char PROGMEM message_00[] PROGMEM = " WTF!?! ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_01[] PROGMEM = " I AM NO BOMB! ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_02[] PROGMEM = " 5 4 3 2 1 ... BOOM! ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_03[] PROGMEM = " I'M SORRY DAVE, I'M AFRAID I CAN'T DO THAT. ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_04[] PROGMEM = " NOW BYE ME A SOLDERING STATION ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_05[] PROGMEM = " MAKE STUFF ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_06[] PROGMEM = " IF YOU CAN'T OPEN IT, YOU DON'T OWN IT ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_07[] PROGMEM = " 1337 3L3X7RON!C5 !1!! ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_08[] PROGMEM = " MY KUNG FU IS BETTER THAN YOURS ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_09[] PROGMEM = " SUDO MAKE ME A SANDWICH ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_10[] PROGMEM = " ZOMBIES AHEAD ";
const prog_char PROGMEM message_11[] PROGMEM = " HTTP://TINKERLOG.COM ";
what does this add to the code? i just cant think of anything...
btw, no wonder nearly no version can make this program small enough to fit inside the attiny2313...
If the compiled hex file is too big for the tiny2313, try the other compiler version as noted on step 3.
Cheers,
Alex
but you mean that those message's get displayed?
What could be the prob? I'm using AVR Studio 4 for a compiler.
I also tryed to just use the step 2 hex file to the chip and same. just lots of random flashes, I got the 64 LED matrix from furloc in your link, is there anything I need to do with the code?..
And maybe you can try WinAVR compiler.
PLEASE....
Cheers,
Alex
and ive decided to add a standard 6pin header for reprogramming ease.
just 2 quick questions:
when programming, can i use the 5V coming from a USB port. i dont think so, becouse itl burn out the matrix (i think)
so, instead can i just turn it on and program it? (with the 3V from 2 1.5V batteries)
and, ive looked at the datasheets, and it looks like i have a common cathode, but im not sure (always get confused about what cathode/anode is XD)
so, heres the pdf can someone tell me if it is indeed common cathode, and if so, how should i alter the code?
btw, i have reversed the attiny (so where pin1 normally would be is now pin11) to fix this problem (i believe it would anyway) but im not sure if that would work...
The matrix looks like a common anode one.
Cheers,
Alex
and if i needed the resistors in combo with the 5V, how much would those resistors be needed to be?
so, for the common anode part, i dont need to change anything? and the flipping i did with the chip works?
If you power the circuit with 5V, 220 Ohm should be ok.
There are parts in the code that deal with common anode or common cathode. Just comment and uncomment the relevant part. You don't need to flip the controller.
and for the programmer part, im using one that connects to my printer port, but i added an USB cable for 5V, but i dont need to plug that in ;)
il just add a 220ohm resistor just in case (that goes in front off the VCC pin to the programmer port right?)
is there a .hex file by any chance?