Beam shots show a building at night 100-ft away illuminated by this LED bike light.
Detailed Specs and Parts List are given at the end of Step 8.
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Signing UpStep 1: Building the Enclosure
A. These are the parts needed for the enclosure and shown before cutting to size: Lexan MR10 plastic, 1/16-inch x 3/4-inch aluminum L-bracket, Hammond enclosure, heat sink.
B. Cut parts to size: 3/4-inch section from enclosure, aluminum back bezel, Lexan front bezel, heat sink slices.








































![pimpMyBike[1] =](http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FAO/AC1G/H9T4FC2Q/FAOAC1GH9T4FC2Q.SQUARE.jpg)

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For cell balancing, you can use 18650 battery holders. Perhaps glue two 2-cell holders back to back and wire them in series.
AAah! Don't insulate batteries! you want the batteries to loose heat quickly if necessary. This will shorten battery life.
Driving very slowly with a 6-volt stator (and no battery) might... give problems though. You might have to choose between a ticket for speeding or one for driving without light ;)
One can also ditch the buck-puck and just use a resistor. you'll need a resistor capable of dissipating a lot of power and you'll need to calculate the exact value in ohms. Just google LED-calculator to find one and enter the specs found in the datasheet of the LEDs used. Most online calculators will show you the schematic needed.
Most online LED calculators will start protesting that the amount of Milliamperes is very high (for a LED) or that the resistor must be capable to handle a very high wattage. That's because most of those calculators aren't written for high power leds (yet) although the outcome is correct.
I'd advice you to buy a resistor capable of handling 3-4 times the load. In most electronics (not the extremely cheap stuff) components used can handle at least twice the load of the design which is indeed enough, but.... The resistor may still get very hot.
There are a few disadvantage to a set up without buck-puck, When your stator doesn't give a the same amount of volts at different RPMs, your lights will dim/brighten every time you shift gears. Although rated as an 12 volt stator it might... also generate more at high RPMs which could ruin the LEDs.
A motorcycle with battery will give a more constant voltage and have less problems. Anyway, measure what your stator (with or without battery) is capable of before building a resistor-set up.
The beauty of a buck-puck is that it delivers the exact amount of power to the LEDS whether the motor runs stationary or at 11000 RPM without having to know too much about electronics.
It is possible to drive leds in other ways as well, even quit cheap, but those require a lot more knowledge about the components used.
Length Width Height
4.72 2.82 .75 INCHES
120 71.2 19 MM
with a cost of 1-5 6-49 Quantity
1455C1202BK 9C $11.02 $9.33 each
http://www.hammondmfg.com/1455V2.htm
Photo Gallary of sizes
http://www.hammondmfg.com/1455ptbla.htm
Was a pain to find but did now to find where to get it in stock or cheaper. But since we now have the dimensions we can find something close to it. Since it will be cut into parts when spend the 11.02 plus shipping.
List of where to buy in different countries
http://www.hammondmfg.com/dists.htm
cheper at
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/1455B1202BK/?qs=GM6gGTqOQCuRmNe%252bgxXacw%3d%3d for $9.99
This really wasn't hard to place when you did the instructions but I would have never learned to search the web this good.
http://www.ledsupply.com/buckpuck.php?gclid=CKPNzq7Y25wCFQJD5godm3iDJA
Could you be more specific about which one you got from the above page?? Does anyone else know? Theres no clear picture.
http://ledsupply.com/03023-d-e-1000p.php
Thanks.