Step 6: Attach Ends

The end panels are the remaining two 9" x 14" panels. Place one end panel at the end of the assembled pieces and use the 11" x 45 3/8" board to align it with the front of the inner panels (see first photo). Now mark the location of the top and bottom ramps on the end panel (second photo). Drill 1/8" holes 2" in from the ends of the top and bottom ramps as marked on the end panel (you should have 4 holes). Drive a 4d finish nail into each hole from the side opposite the markings. Only drive the nails in until the point sticks out about 1/8" from the marked side (third photo). Now place the end panel back on the end as you did to mark the panel and press it into place letting the nail points mark the top and bottom ramps (fourth photo shows mark). Remove the end panel and at each marked location on the ramps drill with 1/8" hole about the depth of a 4d nail. Put wood glue on the end panels in the area marked for the ramps (fifth photo). Place the end panel back on the assembly and nail into place. If you were real careful the nails should follow the drill holes and not split the ply wood ramps. Repeat this process for the other end.

NOTE: This step is tricky. Be very careful to drill all holes as perpendicular as possible. If the holes not aligned well you risk splitting the ramps which could cause the cans to get stuck and not roll down the ramp. Since the end is getting glued you could potentially just use small brads to attach the end and skip all the drilling, but that is not how I did mine.
<p>Has anyone tried this with other materials besides plywood? I'd like to make this for my pantry, but plywood just isn't very aesthetically appealing. I'd prefer a more finished look to it.</p>
<p>Paint it or buy plywood that has a finished side for the outside and stain it....</p>
3/4 bc plywood is good that way it's pre-sanded then then primer it with whatever kind of material you want for your finish coat like lacquer has to have a a lacquer base primer where a painted surface can have kilz primer
<p>consider decorative front side molding</p>
<p>Absolutely gorgeous, a great organizer for the OCD in us, but not practical in terms of FIFO. It would need to hold at least two years worth of inventory in order to be a practical device for the purpose of FIFO.</p><p>Canned foods could last for decades, so it really doesn't matter if you take the first or last item if they were all purchased in the same year. </p>
<p>I don't use a tremendous amount of commercially canned goods and I think that 1 or 2 of these units will be perfect. jThey will fit my shelving units and organize the products that I buy, No more stacks falling over, etc.</p>
<p>Why take the time to complain about this? Most of us go through cans more quickly so this is a great project. Seems disingenuous to complain about something not suiting your needs--just move on and find something you like better.</p>
<p>There's no picture for step 2 or dimentions for those pieces. </p>
<p>thank you.</p>
<p>It doesn't show up on Chrome or Edge for some reason. For those of you that don't want to get Firefox, here's the image.</p>
I also have an improvement to your design use 3/4 inch plywood and dato cut the shelves to fit tightly and use a good wood glue so there is no need for nails or screws
Try lacquer instead of polyurethane it's more durable
<p>The Step 2 pattern photo is missing from your instructions</p>
<p>I just looked and the pattern is there. There must be a problem with your browser.</p>
<p>If you cut out the bottom so the cans could drop would you be able to stack multiple units on top of each other so that you could store 18, 27, etc cans in each stack? Have you tried this? I typically have 48+ cans of any given food and it would be great to have them all in a single rotating station. I'm thinking about building out my food storage room with these units.</p>
I have thought about it but have not tried it. It should work. Let me know how it goes if you do try to do it. The cans do get stuck once in a while so make sure you can reach into each level to un-stick the cans if needed.
<p>In this case, isn't it First In Last Out? I would think you'd want the latest addition to the stack to be the last one to be pulled, same theory as stock rotation in a grocery store. Just curious...</p>
<p>If you fill it from the top and pick it from the bottom it will be first in (from top), first out (from bottom). </p>
You have the theory right, but you are getting caught in semantics. Think of it this way: If you stacked your cans in a line, the first one you bought would be at the front of the line (First In). When you go to choose from that line you will pull front the front and it will be the &quot;First Out&quot;. The next one you use would be the second one you bought (Second In - Second Out). &quot;First In - Last Out&quot; would mean that the first can you put in would be the last can you used (not what you want). Hopefully this makes sense.
<p>I would like to get the printable instructions for this can storage dispenser, but it says to get them I have to click on the vote button. I see no vote button, so how do I get the printable instructions. Thank you, Patty</p>
Hi Patty. The voting is long since over, I have not updated the text since I posted the instructable. You should not have to vote to download the printable instructions, but I'm not sure how you do it. Good luck.
<p>The only issues I had with this instructable is that the strips on the front (2&quot;and 2 1/2&quot; x 44 5/8) were too short. I ended up having to scrounge up a different piece of wood to make them 45 3/8 instead. Also, I'm not sure if there was a typo or if I read the instructions wrong, but 4D nails are too small to fit tightly in an 1/8 inch hole. I stepped it down a measurement and everything worked great! Thak you for the great instructable!</p>
<p>What are the actual dimensions of the final project? Sorry if I missed them somewhere along the line.</p>
14.5&quot; deep, 9.25&quot; high, 45&quot; long
<p>Great instructable. One point though: materials list show one sheet of 3/8 plywood, yet some of the dimensions show 5/8. I assume a typo here, may need revision/clarification. Hate to be a 'stickler', but some folks maybe become confused. Still a GREAT Instructable, and I will incorporate this into a full pantry project. Thanks.</p>
There are only a couple spots where the thickness of the plywood is called out at the beginning of the instructable. I did not see any that were 5/8, and the entire project can be done with one 4 x 8 sheet of the same thickness. I did refer to dimensions in several places such as (2 1/2&quot; x 44 5/8&quot; piece) where 5/8 was called out. This does not refer to the plywood thickness but the dimension as in 44&quot; + 5/8&quot; = 44 5/8&quot;. Hope this helps.
<p>Fantastic Instructable! Thanks for this, Can't wait to make mine!</p>
<p>I love this, but it may be some time until hubby can make one. <br>Meanwhile, I find myself stumped with only 1 &quot;collection&quot; and that is <br>for accessories. How do I make a new collection?</p>
I don't understand the question. Are you sure you are commenting on the right instructable? There are no accessories with my 81 can fifo.
I know that your can dispenser has no accessories! lol <br>My problem was that right after joining the site, I had created a collection with the title of accessories and when I wanted to save your instructions, I got stuck with putting them in my collection for accessories because I couldn't figure out how to create a new one, which I would have called &quot;household,&quot; or something like that. After writing for help, I did finally succeed in finding out how to make a new collection, but the method was different from what I had expected.<br><br>Anyway, I'm OK now, so thanks.<br>
I have been wanting to make one and I like your design.
Actually you would lose some space from a perfect stack to use this, The advantages come in from not toppling the stacks by accident and the FIFO design automatically rotates your stock, rather than having to clear a stack to check dates. My problem is that I use the stacking metal shelves that are 36&quot; wide, so I'd have to rearrange the 4'x8' usage and change my shelf height for the double high idea but this would transfer the weight on the shelf to the corners instead of stressing the center of these shelves with huge stacks of cans. I do like the center lift idea to keep them rolling straight. I was thinking I might even go with thinner plywood but cut pieces to glue under the rolling surface at the &quot;landing point&quot; to reinforce those spots. By assembling the rolling surfaces then the landing zone reinforcements, I could fore go the need to anchor the walls to the shelf surface through the edge as the reinforcements could be the right width to keep the walls in place. Maybe use the strap idea to pop the front can to double as the drop through gate if not present, Just cut a slot near the front of the bottom shelf to put the strap through and have a hook to hold the strap over the front wall so that I can grab the hook and pull up to grab the front can. If no strap present then the can falls. A hinged upward plate might work too but it would have to be hinged at the front to hinge up for the can or up and out of the way so the can may fall unobstructed at the next level. (If I hinge away from the front the gate would get in the way for a drop through arrangement.)
Rather than &quot;poke&quot; the cans from the bottom to remove them you could cut a half round, about half a can diameter, cutout on each side panel where the can sits. You could then easily grasp the ends of a can with your finger and thumb and pull it out. <br>BTW, a great build.
This is a great idea man! With winter coming, and eventually tornado (think long power outages) season after that, I wanted a way to be able to rotate and hold my canned goods. I like your idea very much! I think you've done a wonderful job and I'll probably use your design when I build mine. Only change I may make is widening some of the can bays for the larger cans (family sized), other than that, it's superb. Thanks for the instructable!!! :)
This is just begging to get the Kreg Jig treatment. <br>
Just a thought for the jams, try placing a thin runner dow the center of each slot so the lip doesn't touch the surface. You could even incorporate jenicrowe's ideal and leave the end hanging out to pop out cans. I'm going to make a similar one but it will be on a roll-out pantry.
Great idea, I know what I'm putting on my <br>Honey do List. : )
Awesome! Never would have considered this even though I see this every time I go to the store. I'm consider something like this for my canned food that I keep in my pantry now! Will definitely free up some space.
Very well done!<br>You said you aren't a pro woodworker but your work is excellent. I know what I'm doing tonight in my shop.<br>I'll paint mine instead of poly but other than that, I'm copying your design.<br>
You could stack these with a bit of a redesign so that they feed through or not depending if you have a gate open or not. Then items that are eaten often can have more than one tier and ones that aren't stick to the 9 cans.
Great idea! I had not thought of that, but it would be a simple mod.
Great work; This looks like a well though out and executed plan. looking at your dimensional measurements I believe that this is something that I can incorporate into my pantry (shorter in length and stacked for the most used items) weight won't be a problem as the shelves I have now have legs that transfer the force to the floor and not on the walls.<br>Again Great Job, now it's off to the shop to see what I can do with this idea.<br>Dan<br><br>P.S. a plunge router and table saw will make short work of the cuts.
The plunge router would definitely be a welcome addition to the build. Cutting all the slots in the interior walls with my drill and saber saw took a lot of time. I've gotten pretty good at free-handing my circular saw, but a table saw would definitely be the prefered tool if available. As for planning I would say that I spent more time on that than the entire build. Measure twice, cut once only works if all the calculations are correct! Thanks for the comments.
I also love this and think it was excellently thought through and executed. I'm going to stat the husband on this right away. But I think I will add thin strips of nylon cloth or something equally sturdy and flat, attached in each can row to go under the can and hang over the edge to just pop that baby out. I have seen tight battery cases with this handy little attachment to remove the batteries. I think I might experiment with making it from laminated layers of cardboard as well, maybe using layers folded accordian style for strength. Brovo for a great job.
The strap is an excellent idea if you can not get your hand under to pop one out. Thanks for the comment!
Very well done! I've been wanting to make one of these for a while, and you've shared a lot of great info here that will make this project much quicker for me. <br><br>I like how you put the poly on before assembling. That's a a great idea for this particular project. The only thing I will probably do different is use screws instead of nails (along with glue still, of course). <br><br>Very nicely done though, thanks for posting this!
Thanks for the comment. I like the idea of using screws if they are small enough and you drill first. My stash of wood screws mostly consists of drywall screws which are really too big for driving into the end of 3/8&quot; plywood. I had not thought to buy smaller wood screws so I used nails.
<br>i could not find drywall screws smaller than 1-1/8&quot;, so I resorted to put them in on an angle. Meanwhile, a friend was driving in 3&quot; screws until flush, and then taking a hammer to the protruding tip. They broke off cleanly. <br><br>Now if I need a 3/4&quot; wood screw, I'll nick a drywall screw and snap it off in the vice. You have to pre-drill the holes in this case without a point, but it works out otherwise OK.<br><br>Nails, on the other hand will bend, rather than break off cleanly due to the lack of hardness if you try to shorten them this way.
Your comment reminded me I wanted some drywall screws smaller than the 1-1/8&quot; found in retail hardware stores&hellip; I'll share my results: <a href="http://www.filmtools.com/3drsc1.html">http://www.filmtools.com/3drsc1.html</a> Brought a smile to this ol' DIYer!
Cool, I would instantly order these if shipping didn't totally kill the deal. Bookmarked for my next project, but hopefully I can find them someplace like Amazon w/ free super-saver shipping.<br> <br> The other problem is that they don't seem to have the deep and aggressive thread profile that I prefer in my drywall/decking screws. It's a small picture though.

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