Step 17Sphere
Take your time and cut slowly, the woven carbide disks worked best.
The first time I fired mine up it worked but had allot of sparks jumping from the bottom of the sphere, to solve or help this problem I fitted a copper ring for the sphere to sit on. This will fold the charge back up to it. If you dont have a pipe bender tape one end of the pipe shut, fill it with water and freeze it that way you wont kink it wile hand bending it.
After I got the copper ring bent in a circle I cut it and clamped it, so it could be soldered with the torch
I also cut several more 1/2 inch tall rings off the coupler and put them on the column, this keeps the voltage from creeping down.
Also make the sphere sit as high on the column as you can without losing contact with the comb inside, my sphere is around 4" down the column.
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I mean, where was the edge of the hole, in relation to the uppermost part of the copper ring? Was it inside (so the ring is kind of "surrounding" the hole)? Was it outside? Was it so the edge of the hole is sitting exactly on the top of the ring?
This is why in my model I moved the support of the ball inside the sphere to avoid electrical losses.
Also, there is hard copper pipe, which is very hard to bend, and soft copper pipe, which is easy to bend. I had a hard time finding the soft per foot (a standard roll is over $100), but finally found it at http://www.statesupply.com/displayCategory.do?Id=2223.
Yes. I call copper tubing soft copper pipe. You can only bend the pipe (hard pipe with great effort and then it kinks.
Apparently this basic distinction is no longer taught or passed on. The result is that there is great confusion and no one knows the facts any more.
i am confused about where the negative charge comes from and do you make a hole in the sphere for the copper wire to come through and how and how and why do you do step 17?
High voltage will run to any raised part or lip on the sphere and cast off to the air.