I whipped up this little project from scratch as a means to teach my thirteen-year-old cousin how to solder about a month and a half ago. He did all of the soldering that you see in this instructable (and not bad at all! He's a natural!) He liked the flashlight so much that I think he still carries it around with him!
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Signing UpStep 1The Parts
What you will need:
1) Hard plastic 9v battery clip
2) tactile switch (tact switch)
3) Jumbo LED or really bright LED, whichever you prefer
4) proper resistor(s) for your LED
5) 9 volt battery - duh
6) hot glue gun and cheapo soldering iron with solder
The battery clip, LED, and resistor(s) can all be purchased at RadioShack or some other similar electronics store. The tact switch came out of an old broken VCR - check some old junk electronics that have buttons that click, and you'll probably find some tact switches inside. However, you could buy them new from digikey.com or something like that if you wanted to. If you are going to get your tact switch out of something, though, you'll probably need to use a desoldering iron (or something similar) to remove it. A solder sucker works just as well.
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It doesn't say what kind of LED or what not that it is. I'll give some pictures.
Specifications:
Lamp - High Powered L.E.D.
Batteries - 2 Lithium Coin Cells
Burn Time 12-14 Hours
Beam Angle - 20 Degrees
Weight - 7 Grams With Batteries
You need a 150 or 160 ohm resistor.
Firstly, I'm an Aussie, so my spelling will seam odd (Colour Vs Color)
I have various LED keylights like yours. In fact I have the exact one !
I paid AUD $2.99 (+/- US 75c = $1 Aussie)
Anyway, your figures are out, brother. (I M Very H O)
My guess is that these leds look they have a yellow reflector,
when you look into them (when they are not powered).
i.e. they are water clear but the internal reflector dish is pale lemon colour...
My guess is they are about 10,000 mcd and draw 30mA with a max of 100mA.
(Guess plus source: "page 76" of Jaycar catalogue - Part Number: ZD-0194)
They are fine off a pair of 3v lithiums because the disc cells can only output "x" amount
of current and have high internal resistances. (I read that somewhere... I think)
That negates the need for a resistor.
Connect the same LED to a Lead Acid or worse DC power supply and you'll watch
your LED ($$$) extinguish promptly.
B T D T (Been There Done That).
Mind you, you can always reassemble the keylight and then return it to the vendor saying...
"It don' work ! Can ya swap it over for one tha' does please mate?"
They wont have a clue... and will swap it over (...at least once anyway. GRIN)
... Though it is not very honest.
How do I sleep at night??? I dunno....
Meanwhile back at the ranch, tension mounts...
And falls off again !
The calc for the resistor is as follows:
Note: Dots are to space the equasion, as multiple spaces are ignored by the web page
.......... (Vs - Vled)
R = -------------------
.............. I LED
Where...
R is the Resistor value
VS is Vsource.
VLED is Volt drop of LED
ILED is the Current draw of the LED
VS minus Vled divided by ILED = required Resistor value.
Resistance required = (Supply Volts minus Volt drop of LED) divided by the
Current draw of the LED.
So...
(9v-3.5v) = 5.5v
divided by 35 mA
157 ohm resistor.
Closest Resistor values are 150R or 160R
(source: "page 58" of Jaycar catalogue)
so...
160R is the safe pick.
Ah, but how do I know all this stuff?
I'm not qualified, nor in the industry...
I'm not tall, not too smart (OK, I lied, I'm reasonably smart - GRIN)
I learned all this 5hit by quizing my buddies and grabing all the electronic's store's catalogues !
Try these...
jaycar.com.au (or jaycar.com, I guess)
soanar.com.au (Wholesale but you can B/S your way into a catalogue as I did !)
dse.com.au
altronics.com.au
You can learn a lot, as I did/have/am/will.
Cats make great ref libraries. Free ones at that too !
Naturally, I won't get away with standing on my soapbox like this...
so...
If you found an error in my post...
Please be nice when posting any corrections/errors/boo-boos.
My ego is not impervious to machine gun derision !
I did my best and am human. Humans do make mistakes.
My intent is honourable.. to help.
I hope this has helped.
- eight from Oz
P.S.
My huge thanks to "Big Bad Brian" and Anthony... my mates...
(Also any share of any derived kudos, from this post. HaHa !)
Why?
Because I drive them both totally insane with my perpetual questions about
basic electronics, formulas, component ID's, "What if's" and "Can I do that's"...
As yet, neither have murdered me (Yet !!) for the ongoing electronic inquisition !!
T-Y-V-M Brian & Anthony.
To be fair, Brian took my old Audi and Anthony took my Ex.
We all seem to be happy with the deal and still get on famously.
Personally, I think I got the best deal, though Brian managed to sell the old car at a small profit, so....
Go figure !
: P
There are other methods of making white LED lights, such as tri-colour LEDs that contain red, green and blue LED components in one LED, but the blue/UV LED and phosphor approach is still the most common.
Here's a (US government) site that backs this up (if briefly):
http://www.netl.doe.gov/ssl/usingLeds/general_illumination_color_white.htm
"White light can be achieved with LEDs in two main ways: 1) phosphor conversion, in which a blue or near-ultraviolet (UV) chip is coated with phosphor(s) to emit white light; and 2) RGB systems, in which light from multiple monochromatic LEDs (red, green, and blue) is mixed, resulting in white light."
There's more information on good old Wikpedia:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphor#White_LEDs
and
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode#White_light_LEDs
And on this page, there's a close-up picture of the phosphor in an LED (more of a surface mount-type LED, I think, but the same kind of technology):
http://www.dansdata.com/spotlight.htm
You might have a different kind of white LED, but those are the most common. The colour may change when you change the voltage due to a different mix of the blue light from the blue LED components and the other light wavelengths emitted by the phosphor part, but now I'm guessing.
I made one of these bad boys for bar tending to check IDs with. Used 3 UV leds. This baby rocks. And I hot glue like a champion.
Your circuit uses a resistor to drop the voltage from 9V to whatever the LED you chose needs.
That works, but it's actually wasting power that could be used for making more light. If you are using a typical LED, that has a voltage rating of 1.8v and draws 20 mA. The resistor would be (Vbat - 1.8)/.02 = 380 ohms. If you use two LEDs in series and use a 270 ohm resistor you would get twice the light and draw the same 20mA. Similarly you could use 180 ohms and three LEDs, or 90 ohms and four LEDs or no resistor and 5 LEDs. That's five times the brightness for the same battery power!
You didn't mention the voltage/current of your LED, so I don't know what resistor value you would need for your project.
Also note that LEDs can be damaged if you keep the soldering iron on them too long - I've learned this the hard way.
Click on the image below to see schematics for one two or three LEDs.