I have always wanted to build a cabin in the woods, a getaway from the rat race. We bought our farm in 2001 and lived on it for about 4 years. We bought another house in a nearby town and moved there. We actually had our farm up for sale for about a year, but it was back around 2009 and the real estate market was flat. In 2011, my wife bought a 3 bedroom brick ranch house at a auction for $5000.00 We had it jack up off it's foundation and moved to our farm. We spent the next year rebuilding it (that is another story). We moved into it in 2012 and I have wanted to build our cabin ever since.

Fast forward to summer of 2014. I spent about 3 months drawing up plans and eventually finalized on my current design. The cabin itself is 12' x 12' and has a 6' x 12' covered porch on the front of it. The cabin and porch roof is vaulted with a 8/12 roof pitch.

I had a spot picked out to put the cabin back a year or so ago and in July of this year, I took my auger up and and tried to auger 12 holes. Being in middle Tennessee, it was Murphy's law (amazing how that damn Murphy always gets in the way during projects) that I hit rock at about 6" depth of drilling. I had to abandon that site and I took off with my track mounted motorized auger up through the woods looking for another spot. After a couple of days of drilling pilot holes, I finally found a place where I could auger down 36". So, I took my tractor and cleared all the underbrush off and started staking the cabin out. Here is my progress, which is still a work in progress:

Note: All photos were taken using a Nikon D7000, a Nikon S9500 or a Galaxy Note 3....which ever one I had with me at the moment....

Step 1: Looking for a Suitable Building Site

Where my farm is located, we have a lot of soft limestone close to the surface of the ground. It is hit-n-miss when auguring a hole. You never know when you will hit rock @ 3" or be able to go half way to China. My original site selection was a bust when I tried auguring the holes and hit rock at around 6". So, I took the auger and went on a search through my woods looking for a new construction site. 2 days later, I found just the site after drilling many pilot holes. I started clearing all the under brush and scraping the ground down. Half of a day and the site is cleared, ready for the post holes.

Step 2: Getting the Post Holes Drilled and the Posts in the Ground

This part of the process was a little tedious. The ground has 2 layers. About 6" of topsoil and the rest is virgin hardpan clay..........really dry, hard, hardpan clay. My auger is mounted on a rubber tracked hydraulic power plant. The unit weighs about 2700 pounds. It took the better part of a day to get 6 holes drilled down to 36" in depth. You had the tree roots to go through and the clay was very tight and dry. So basically, you were shaving the clay more than drilling it. Finally got all of the holes drilled and got the 6 x 6 treated posts in the ground. And, that was as far as I got for about 2 weeks. It rained and rained, filling up all my 36" holes with water. The clay did a very good job of holding the water, too.

Step 3: Concreting the Posts and Framing the Floor Joists

After it dried up some from all the rain we had, I had to pull all the posts back out of the holes and take a post hole digger and remove all the sediment that had washed in around the posts. After getting all the holes cleaned out, I put the posts back in the holes and squared everything back up and got all of the posts plumb. Each hole got 240 pounds of concrete. That is a total of 1440 pounds of concrete. After letting the concrete setup and cure for a week, I started framing out the floor joists. The floor joists are 2 x 10 treated lumber, on 16" centers. I had some help raising the joists and securing them. I also installed a ledge board on the bottom to help support the joist boards while making sure everything was square and plumb, After the joists were all installed, I laid down the sub floor for the cabin and also put the 2 x 6" treated planks down for the front porch deck. All of the outside joists were lagged to the 6 x 6 posts using 3/8" x 4" galvanized lag bolts. Everything else was fastened using T25 3" coated deck screws. No nails.

Step 4: Putting Up the Walls, Putting Up the Structural Ridge Beam and Installing Rafters

After getting the sub-floor down, I had to wait another week due to more rain. I tarped everything down. I had my nephew help me build the walls and raise them. We built & raised all 4 walls and installled the structural ridge beam in one day. The next day, we cut and installed the rafters and installed the roof decking and got the felt paper down, just in time for more rain. Yes. we used the tractor bucket for a work platform. Much easier than climbing up and down ladders......

Step 5: Building the Roof Over the Porch

I framed the porch structure from 4" x 4" posts. I post notched all of the joints and lagged them together with galvanized lag bolts. The roofline follows the cabins roofline with a structural ridge beam. Once I got the rafter cut and installed, I had to tarp everything for a week, due to more rain. The next weekend, I received in the door and windows and installed them. The following weekend, I got the roof decking and felt paper installed, just in time for more rain.

Step 6: Yes, There Is Electricity.....kind Of......

I put a dual off grid power system in the cabin. The lighting is all 12 volt DC, utilizing standard 120 VAC lighting fixtures and switches. I purchased 12 VDC standard Edison 26 base LED bulbs that fit perfectly in the fixtures. All of this is being powered by 2- 98 AH deep cycle gel cell batteries wired in parallel. I have a total of 4 lighting fixtures inside and out, each bulb pulling 7 watts for a grand total of 28 watts. The bulbs put out an equivalent of a 50 watt incandescent light bulb. So far, the batteries haven't even noticed when the bulbs are turned on. The DC voltage wiring was installed in 12 gauge THHN red and black wiring. All lights are wired up to 3 way switches, so you can turn them off from 2 different locations.

I also have a separate 120 VAC wiring circuit in the cabin that powers a 5000 BTU air conditioner (yeah, you have to have AC when roughing it in the woods), a outdoor duplex receptacle and a receptacle for a battery charger to plug into for the battery storage box. All of the 120 VAC will be sourced from a Honda EU2000i generator, which will be housed in a generator shelter about 30 feet behind the cabin. All of the AC wiring was installed using 14/3 Romex.

I have included the 12 VDC power schematic for the cabin.

Step 7: The Metal Roof Is Installed.

The roof and the 3 outside walls are clad in 28 gauge metal. The roof is an obvious choice, but the walls I decided to clad in metal because we have an army of squirrels that just love to chew on T-111 wood siding. They like the taste of the glue, so metal was a better option. The metal on the 3 outside walls is not installed as of yet.

Step 8: Adding Barnstyle Hardboard to the Front and Trimming It Out

I used 4' x 8' sheets of hardboard that looks like barn siding that I picked up at Lowes for around $18.00/sheet. Installing it wasn't the easiest as it had to be cut out to fit perfectly around the window and the door. I installed it as a sheet, as I didn't want any weird seams showing up in the middle of the wall. All in all, it turned out pretty good. I then took 1" x 8" treated pine planks and ripped those on the table saw down to 2.5" pieces to use for the trim. I will add more pictures to this as I am able.

Step 9: Insulation Installation

Before I put any insulation in, I took foaming sealer in a can and foam sealed any cracks, crevices or bored holes, to keep out moisture, bugs and drafts. The walls were insulated with Johns Manfield R13 batts. The vaulted ceiling was insulated with rolls of Dow Corning R19, custom cut to fit. Wow, what a difference in noise and temp this makes. The roof line is vented with a continuous ridge line vent and the air intake is a continuous soffit vent. I used the plastic rafter vents stapled onto the underside of the roof decking so that I have continuous airflow from soffit to the ridge line. Being the cabin is in a mature growth of woods, it won't see much direct sunlight, but this should help ventilate the moisture.

Step 10: Walls and Ceilings

I put the ceiling panels up first. I thought about using tongue and groove pine, but my budget was getting tight. I was going to use 4'x 8' 11/32" sanded ply panels, but being that I am installing this by myself, 11/32 gets a little heavy being balanced on your head, trying to butt and square the panels up on a 8/12 pitched ceiling and trying to grab my pneumatic brad gun to install them with, all at the same time. So, while wandering around the big orange big box store, I saw some nice Luan panels that were semi-cheap and light. These actually worked out fairly well. I am going to leave them natural in color and just spray a poly coating on them in the next few weeks.

The wall panels are 4' x 8' 11/32 sanded ply panels. I will leave them natural in color and just spray a poly coating on them once I am done installing them. I did find it peculiar that a factory plywood panel is not parallel on both long edges. A couple of panels were bowed by almost a 1/4" in the middle.

Step 11: Conceptual Sketches

I have attached copies of the conceptual sketches that I designed and built the cabin from. I will attach this disclaimer for the sketches for the obvious reason:

"These sketches and all information contained within each sketch is for General Reference only.



It is hereby stated that the concepts and dimensions contained within these sketches are not correct, nor will they meet any building codes. By studying and incorporating any conceptual ideas depicted in these sketches, you are assuming all liability for proper construction design, proper dimensions, understanding and implementing proper, sound building techniques which are compliant with all your local building codes and securing all local and state permits necessary to build your project."

In other words, for legal purposes, these are for your viewing pleasure only........

Step 12: More Pictures to Come.............

As I have stated before, this is still a work in progress......so, there are more pictures to come. Stay tuned and please share any comments or questions that you have!

And while you are waiting for the finished product, enjoy some of the scenery from the comforts of the front porch.......

Step 13: Thanks to Those Who Helped

I want to thank those people who gave up their weekends to assist me in putting the cabin up. A big thanks goes out to my nephew, Wes, who without, I would have never gotten finished. My sister-in-law, Cheryl, who has to be the most agile 60 something grandma I have ever seen. You rock! My good friend Susan, who helped wherever I needed her to and last, but not least, to my wife Janice. You were patient with me through all these weekends and weeknights that I spent at the cabin site, working away. You came and helped lift, hold and cut where I needed you to. You were the catering service, the gopher. Many thanks!

<p>nice build, color me jealous.</p>
I'm not exactly getting how your floor is set up. What supports the middle, under the house? I see your pictures, but I'm just not getting it.
<p>You mentioned your budget - what are you expecting this to cost?</p>
The cabin materials has cost me around $5200.00 to build. Of course, my labor is free. I paid to have the metal roof put on and metal flashing installed. Other than that, It was all free labor. Could I have built it cheaper? Yes, probably by close to 25%, but I used professional grade lumber and materials. I want the cabin to outlast me and also my kids. I also want it to be as maintenance free as possible. Who wants to have a cabin back in the woods, where you can escape from everything and relax, only to have to spend your whole time that was slotted for relaxation, doing maintenance on it, because you skimped on cost on the front end of the build.<br><br>If you have a contractor build it, plan on multiplying that cost by a factor of at least 2.5, depending on square footage, location of build site, availability of power grid and ease of bringing in building materials and equipment. Think of what it takes to build a house and cost associated. This is basically a house, but on a small scale.
<p>I like the beams on the front porch. Reminds me of a hayrake table.</p>
<p>nice... my property here in the North East is all ledge and you cant dig a hole anywhere without hitting some boulder or something...lol You should have seen me trying to hand dig the post holes for a split rail fence, I dug up more rocks... its no wonder why there are so many rock walls in the woods around here. I couldn't imagine being a farmer back in the day using horses to plow fields full of stone! Great job so far on the Cabin..its an inspiration! </p>
thanks for posting this, your size looks perfect to me. We are restoring an old 350sf cabin and I was looking for inspiration. I wish you had built our original as it would be in much better shape than what we are dealing with now. Hope you post some updates, we will start following your progress.
<p>This is just so awesome!!</p><p>Talk about secluded....just the way I'd like to live the rest of my life!</p><p>you mentioned hungry squirrels in the area....them squirrels could be put on the dinner menu! Squirrel stew is delicious!</p><p>Were it me building this cabin, I'd need it bigger(claustrophobia)....at least 1000 sq. ft. or I'd go nuts inside it...but that's just me. </p><p>You have built an awesome cabin!! :)</p>
<p>Thank you. I could probably fill up a chest freezer with squirrels, if I hunted. Yes, it would feel a bit claustrophobic if it were not for the vaulted ceilings. From the floor to the peak of the ceiling is 12 foot.</p>
Sir:<br> Speaking only for/about myself, It is the length &amp; the width that would bother me...the height of the ceiling would have little or no effect on me....<br><br>I once lived in a trailer park &amp; the trailer I live in was 500 sq. ft....after 2 months, I HAD to move into a bigger trailer....<br>the panic attacks, hot &amp; cold sweats, the anxiety of living in such a small space was taking a toll on me.<br><br>So please do not think anything negative about what I said about your cabin, I think it looks cool as all get out...it's just way too small for me...<br><br>Sir I wish you the best with your new cabin, may it give you many years of peace &amp; joy.<br><br>Have a very Merry Christmas Sir<br>God Bless.
<p>This is awesome! My dream is to build an house or cabin and you have done it. I always had my eye on one of those micro cabins on a trailer but this is very cool also. Keep us posted!</p>
<p>Thanks. It has been a lot of fun to build . As of last weekend, the inside is pretty much finished, with the exception of putting down the hardwood floor. I will have to get some pictures of it this weekend and get them posted.</p>
<p>Wow it looks great so far, definitely a lovely place to stay for a while. I can't wait to see what it looks like finished!</p>
<p>Thanks for the welcome.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: My daytime job is a IT Hardware Professional. When I am not rebuilding computers and networks, I like tinkering with all types of mechanical equipment ... More »
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