Introduction: A Clockwork Orange - Alex DeLarge Maskie Instructable
A Clockwork Orange - Alex DeLarge Maskie Instructable
For several years I have sought to portray Alex DeLarge from "A Clockwork Orange", but I have held back putting out the time and effort to create a quality costume I have always felt this character deserves. However, like Alex says, "Initiative comes to thems that wait!"
Since I have not been able to locate a tutorial for creating the Alex Maskie, I've chosen to construct my own. An excellent resource I used to get started on the project was www.malcolmmcdowell.net.
Step 1: Supplies
Sculpey Original White (1.75 lbs.)
Coat Hanger (Metal)
Acrylic paint: Black, Flesh, Red
Thread and Needle
Tarp or Large Garbage Bag
Step 2: Forming the Mask
Begin with a clean, flat surface. Break the Sculpey clay apart into manageable chunks so that it may be easily worked by your hands. Next knead the clay until it becomes soft and pliable. Once softened, you may combine the clay together to begin forming the mask. Start with the eyes and cheeks by working the clay into an oval shape large enough to span across your face to your temples. The thickness should be 1/3 to �Note - I used approximately half of the package contents on the entire mask.
Use a knife to cut out holes for the eyes. The eyes should be somewhat egg shaped. Roll another piece of clay into a long thin tube and place above the eyes at the top of the mask in order to form a brow then proceed to blend in. Cut small holes on either side of the mask for the elastic band that will be used to secure the mask to your head (*I used a Visine cap to form these holes*).
Step 3: Forming the Nose
Due to the length of the nose, additional support is necessary to prevent breaking. Cut a metal coat hanger into a wire that is long enough to support the nose and secure into the eye and cheek portion of the mask, approximately 7-8 inches. Bend so that 2 inches are at a right degree angle (in the shape of an "L").
Add additional clay to where the nose will be secured to help support it when connecting the wire.
Note - Once the wire is secure, you will want to cut a V-shape on the inner side of the mask so that your own nose will fit.
Form the clay into a 5-6 inch long cylinder, with a bulbous tip. The width should be around 2 inches. Place the long end of the coat hanger wire through the direct center of the cylinder, place the shorter end through the mask where the additional clay was positioned. Gently form together both portions of the mask.
Step 4: Baking the Mask
Place tin foil on the bottom of a baking sheet. The mask will droop during the baking process if you do not support it properly. I used crumpled tin foil beneath the nose to support the mask upright, and two other makeshift foil supporters through each of the eyes).
Helpful Tip Bake the mask for 5-7 minutes, take out of the oven and allow cooling. ENSURE THE MASK IS COMPLETELY COOL!! The mask will be harder, but flexible enough to place on your face and mold to your own contours. You may also want to perform this step a second time to make sure the mask structure is intact.
The baking process will take anywhere from 30-45 minutes of actual cook time depending on the thickness of your mask. The mask will appear a pinkish color when hardened. Allow the mask to cool prior to handling.
Step 5: Sanding the Mask
Lay down a tarp or a large plastic bag to help control the debris during the sanding process. Use the Dremel tool with a stone sanding tip to smooth out unevenness or mistakes. Use a smaller precision tool for detail near the eyes. Use a medium to fine grade sand paper to smooth down any remaining imperfections (*This additional step will help tremendously during the painting process*).
Step 6: Painting of Mask
Begin with the Flesh color acrylic paint on the cheeks and nose. Use a second coat if necessary. Follow with black around the eyes, and finally red for the nose. Additional details may be added for your own personal touch.
Step 7: Elastic Strip
Sew the elastic strip to each side of the mask where the holes are located. Be sure to check the tension so that it is tight enough to be held onto your head, but not so tight that it pulls the sides of the mask as this will cause the mask to break.
Step 8: Conclusion
There you have it! In all, I spent 5-6 hours on the Alex DeLarge Maskie project, but bear in mind it was my first time working with Sculpey and I encountered a few minor mishaps along the way due to lack of experience. Hopefully with the assistance from this tutorial and some practice you will be able to become more efficient and walk away with a quality mask all your friends will be talking about. Best of luck!!
Created by: Brandon W. Lewis