Using either pressure at the reservoir or vacuum at the bleed nipple, turns this fiddly chore into a one man operation, removing the need to have someone in the drivers seat pumping the brake pedal, with all the shouting that accompanies it.
The added bonus is that it works just as easily on the brake or clutch, car or bike, as long as there's hydraulic fluid involved.
Having used both types of systems I have to admit that the vacuum version is superior and uses less components.
When working with brake fluid observe the cautionary notices on the brake fluid bottle.
The working pressure for pressure bleeding brakes is approx 15 ~ 20 psi, 100 ~ 135 kPa.
Exceeding the working pressures on the brake reservoir/master cylinder can destroy/rupture the brake system seals.
The above cautions are unnecessary if you plan on using the vacuum type system.
Step 1: Parts Needed
- some sort of container to hold pressure and brake fluid.
- tubing and connectors ( Tyre tube connectors work well).
- an adapter plate/cap for the brake master cylinder/clutch cylinder.
You will need the following for the vacuum version:
- a vacuum pump (old fridge motor )
- a container to hold expelled brake fluid, prevents the vacuum pump from sucking up the old brake fluid.
- tubing and connectors
I used a windscreen washer pressure bottle from an old VW beetle, this has a max pressure rating of 35psi, more than adequate for our purposes.
Motive Products at www.motiveproducts.com/ does the complete range of power brake bleeders for those looking for ideas.
It can be seen that a garden pressure sprayer, with the addition of a gauge would make a dandy makeshift brake bleeder.