This habitat is NOT suitable for all chameleons or captive reptiles. Please research the needs of your animals before jumping into a project like this one. My wife and I have been keeping chams for about 5 years and gradually developed the instructible you're reading right now.
A free range is a "cage without walls." The idea is to make the habitat so enjoyable to the resident, it just doesn't want to leave. Chameleons have many specific needs (temperature ranges, humidity ranges, UV light exposure and watering/drinking difficulties, so it was challenging to meet all these needs.
The range is planted with a variety of live tropical plants and artificial vines. The room is heated by an array of spotlight lamps on their own dedicated circuit and controlled by a thermostat. Ultraviolet light is furnished by shoplights with Reptisun 5.0 and 10.0 bulbs on a circuit separate from the heat lamps. The Ultraviolet lights are on a timer and provide the overall day and night rhythms.
Chameleons are fussy drinkers. They won't drink from a bowl, only from "rainwater." To simulate this, an automated misting system rains on our monsters 4 times a day and a drainage system carries the excess water and waste away outside the house where it waters and feeds our vegetable garden. The entire system is protected from leaks by a moisture-sensor product that shuts off the water at the source.
So, enough verbosity! Let me show you how we did it!
This is an advanced project. You will need the following skills to build your own Chameleon Free Range. (by the way, from now on I will usually refer to the Free Range as "FR")
- Basic Carpentry.
- Basic Electrical- (wiring your own receptacles and switches.)
- Intermediate Plumbing (I tapped off a nearby bathroom sink supply line for the misting system.)
- Intermediate "Handyman Skills,": You'll be modifying and installing a lot of wire shelving, routing plumbing through your attic, installing gutters inside a room and even drilling a hole through your house. At times, you'll have to modify off-the-shelf products and bend them to your will. Make sure you're up to the challenge before you get in over your head and have to hire a handyman and watch their eyes roll as you explain what you're trying to do!
Please note that I am writing this instructable long after we finished the Free Range, but I'll do my best to describe what we did and how we did it. My photography is extremely after-the-fact, but I'll do my best to show how everything came together.
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Signing UpStep 1Do you want to keep a chameleon? Can you maintain the commitment?
I believe animals have rights and if you pledge to keep an animal as a pet, then that animal becomes completely dependent on you and the care you give it.
Chameleons are hard to keep. They are not for beginners. If you're new to keeping reptiles, start with a bearded dragon or a leopard gecko. PLEASE don't start with a chameleon or an iguana.
If you're a chameleon keeper or aspire to be one, you should think long and hard about if you know your lizard well enough to keep him in a free range. Every animal is different and every animal has a different personality. Small reptiles are difficult to manage in a large free range. Your Meller's chameleon might be the reincarnation of Ferdinand Magellan and constantly wanders out of your carefully constructed free range. Our four adults stay put for the most part, but we do have surprises from time to time. ("Hey guys! I found a way to get to the cricket bin! woo hoo!") Get to know your critters before you build.
You should also know as much as possible about the room you'll build the free range in. How is the airflow? What are the seasonal temperature differences? how about sun exposure? Can you adequately control the climate? Is it drafty? Where will you tap into a water supply. Where will you plumb the wastewater?
All that said, enjoy this little interactive photo of a couple of our chameleons and then.....we'll begin!
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Secondly, you mentioned that your Nepenthes aren't pitchering? ( I don't know how much research you've done on Nepenthes, but since google tends to not yield very informative results in regards to Neps, I'll just give the maximum information.)
It looks like from the picture on the next page that the plant there is N. alata or an N. alata hybrid- most likely N. xVentrata (N. alata x N. ventricosa) simply as it's by far the most commonly sold. Nepenthes Ventrata is an incredibly adaptable and a robust grower, which is likely why it continues to grow well, albeit a lack of pitchers. It's a technically a highland cross, I believe, although I've seen many pictures of thriving specimens growing in lowland climates such as Florida. I'm assuming your temperature and watering conditions are more than stable enough for the plant with your current setup, which leaves nutrients and/or lighting as the probable cause of the lack of pitchers.
Nepenthes generally need much higher amounts of light than most houseplants, with strong lighting being especially important for good pitchering. (I grow mine right next to my Aloes in a south-facing window)
You might want to move your Neps closer to your lighting fixtures if possible, and this should help with the pitchering.
From your description, it sounds like soil quality might be the main factor preventing your Nepenthes from pitchering. Nepenthes, like most carnivorous plants, grow in low-nutrient conditions, which means that they are not very tolerant of nutrients in their soil. Most common household soil mixtures are loaded with fertilizers for good growth for normal houseplants. If you've repotted your Nepenthes without specifically using nutrient-free ingredients, this is likely what has caused the lack of pitchers. (The same goes for if you've fertilized the plant) If this is the case, you'll want to look into getting some nutrient-free mixes, and repotting. You might be able to find sphagnum moss or perlite without added fertilizer at your local store, although you'll want to avoid anything with miracle grow in it's name. (Personally, I just order the small amount of soil I need online) Also, If you're not doing so already, watering with distilled or reverse osmosis water should help too. (It also won't clog misting nozzles, as there's almost no dissolved solids in it whatsoever)
Here are some good resources in case you need them:
International Carnivorous Plant Society
http://carnivorousplants.org/
(The how to pages and the web ring have been especially useful for me)
Sarracenia Northwest
http://cobraplant.com/
(Nursery which has good plant guides and advice)
The Savage Garden
Peter D'amato
ISBN-10: 0898159156
ISBN-13: 978-0898159158
Growing Carnivorous Plants
Barry Rice
ISBN-10: 0881928070
ISBN-13: 978-0881928075
"Nepenthes University"
http://www.cpjungle.com/nepenthesuniversity.htm
(a website with a good range of information on Nepenthes)
I hope this helps and I wish you luck with your Nepenthes.
However, I do have seven horses, and I thought you would like to know what "horse nuts" usually do with that self-sticking tape, which I assume from your description, is one sold as "vet wrap". It's a self-stick bandage. If a horse injures its hoof (stone bruise) or leg (scrape or cut), the injury is cleaned, wrapped with protective gauze/bandage, and the whole thing is covered with vet wrap. Vet wrap stays in place, even when wet, so it's a key part of any horse person's first aid kit.
I'd love to see more photos of your chameleons -- and I look forward to updates!
:)
Meller's Chameleons don't turn any really crazy colors, but they do put on interesting patterns, usually striped, and usually in the green to yellow hues.
Other chameleons, especially panther chameleons, can turn bright red, orange and blue.
Those patterns are exactly how we tell them apart- they're kind of like fingerprints. There are also other cues, for example the biggest male is much bigger than the others, and another male lost a couple scales from his dorsal "dragon scales." Those two are dead giveaways. Finally, they have discernable personalities. The captive bred female is a rambunctious girl- she gets into a lot of mischief at feeding time. The four adults are named: Dume, (pronounced doo-may) Chaucer, Merlin and Guenevere.
Thanks! Jim
We haven't found any marine grade rope that looked jungle-y enough for the free range. We have a grape vine growing outside, but I haven't tried one in the free range- it would never get a chance to rest!
To be honest, I haven't put much effort into the pitcher plants but I'll take a couple measurements based on your ideas. I can never seem to find that ideal place in the free range where it gets just enough water.
Releasing bugs into the free range doesn't work- they scatter all over the house before the chameleons nail them. We do often hand feed the chammys- one side effect of free ranging the chameleons is they become extremely tame. They practically come when called! But most often we use feeding stations: If you look at that first picture of the free range, you can just see two feeding cups- they're the fire engine red splotches. They are just regular old Solo Party cups with a coat hanger bent into a hook so we can hang it in the free range. Punch some holes in the bottom of the cup so the crickets don't drown at the next misting.
Thanks for posting the neat ideas! Cheers, Jim
We did this several years ago (w/o the leak sensors;get the leak sensors!) specifically for a rescued iguana until a good permanent owner was found, and the work totally worth it for tons of "herp happyness".
A room of their own is a nice little world for your chams and for you, too. I'll bet your wife knows of this rigorously inclusive, life-saving site by M. Kaplan: http://www.anapsid.org/mainlizards.html and http://www.anapsid.org/ and http://www.anapsid.org/pdf/icfs.pdf (the latter 2 are iguana;the first includes chams, thru the Lizards link) but it's all cross-linked.
I was looking for another instructable altogether, saw yours and it just made my day! But it is really all about the lizards...
thank you for posting your photos and info....this is a good place to begin: great habitat
This is really cool.
You put in A LOT of detail, amazing work, I hope to see more awesome stuff from you!