Introduction: A Great Build-at-home Disc Golf Target (or a Better Use for 55-gal Drums!)

Welcome to another outstanding Instructable from Kentucky Bum! In this Instructable I will show you how to build a kick-ass disc golf target. I have seen numerous plans (and even some for sale) but I didn’t care for any of them; too hooky, too flimsy, not robust enough, not weather-proof enough or just poorly designed. None of the parts in most any of these plans are ‘cheap’ by any standard, but if you are going to put something up outside, leave it there and expect to survive against the weather and a never-ending assault of hard, plastic discs it has to have some mass to it. If it has mass, it’s gonna cost you (KB axiom #28).
 
A commercial ‘portable’ target that fits in bag cost $120, a commercial semi-permanent one (all metal with a 4-legged base) will cost $175 and a pro version is gonna cost you about $400. Here’s my version of the ultimate home disc golf target. It should cost you about $95 to $100 per target (and take you about 4-man hours to build) but it should last you a long, long time.
 One more note, with the exception of the outer diameter of the ‘basket’ (made from the 55-gallon drum) this target is pretty close to the target specifications shown on the PDGA.com website. For an ‘approved’ target the diameters for the basket should be 24.5” to 27.5”, but most drums are only 23 ½” in diameter, so these will be a bit ‘tight’ for the basket, however it should make you a better ‘golfer’; your practice target should always be a little tougher than a real one anyway.

Here is a picture of my second basket which I put up last weekend. It is made from a barrel that has a bonded on top and bottom. It looks much, much better.
 

Step 1: What You Will Need

Here’s an exploded drawing of all of the components with dimensions (minus the chains). You may wish to print it out and refer to it while you assemble this target.

Here’s what you’ll need:

·         1 ea plastic 55-gallon drum ($10 to $40 depending on location and patience)

·         3 ea PVC 3” Closet Flanges ($2.50 to $4.50 depending on design; but buy the cheapest); these are the large circular flanges that you bolt toilet seats down to, so you know they are strong.

·         3 ea PVC 3” to 2” step down bushing (~$2.50 ea). These allow you to bond a 2” PVC pipe into a 3” Closet Flange.

·         63” of 2” PVC Schedule 40 pipe (the thick stuff, not the thin stuff); I buy the 10’ pipe (for about $5.50 ea) two at a time; they will make 1 ½ targets each so you will get 3 targets for the $11 worth of pipe.

·         31’ of 2/0 chain Passing Link (usually about $1.14/ft) OR 3 ea 10’ boxes of the same chain (I’ll tell you why I use 30’ and why I don’t use Straight Link chain below)

·         15 ea #60 S-Hooks (~$3 a bag for 6)

·         1 ea 3” diameter hinged binder ring (Office Depot sells these for $1.50 each). This is to gather the chains around the center tube. You can use a large twisty tie or even some bailing wire to do this as well, but it doesn’t look as cool. You can also use a large nylon zip tie, but they don’t last long being exposed to the weather so plan on finding that 3” ring someday.

·         4 ea ¼ - 20 x 1 ½“ Carriage bolts

·         4 ea ¼ - 20 x 2” hex-head bolts

·         8 ea ¼ - 20 nuts

·         8 ea ¼“ flat washers

·         8 ea ¼” lock washers

·         PVC cement (glue)

·         1 ea bag of Redi-mix concrete cement; usually less than $3/bag for one 80# bag which will do two holes or just buy a 40# bag for each hole (a bit more usually).

 

Here’s the tools you’ll need:

  • Saws; preferably a chop saw and a table saw. These are to cut the PVC pipe and 55-gallon plastic drum with.
  • Drill w/ 2 different sized drill bits: ¼” and 13/64” (a 7/16” can be substituted for the 13/64” if you don’t have one).
  • 7/16” wrench (or socket set with that socket). A socket driver for your drill would be best.
  • Grinder w/composite blade (to cut chain), bench vice and hammer (to split chain). You can use a reciprocating saw with a bi-metal bit or a hack saw too, but it may take you a while…

Step 2: Step 1, Start Digging

Step 1: Start digging! The day before you want to use your target go out and dig a hole where you want to put your target then pour in some cement!
  • Dig a hole about 8” in diameter and 12” deep using any means possible (a good shovel will help here!). Take either a scrap piece of 2” PVC pipe (at least 2 feet long) or use the 36” piece (you cut in Step 2) and push it down into the earth at the center of the bottom of the hole you just dug.
  • Pour your ‘properly mixed’ cement into the hole all-the-while keeping your pipe centered as best you can (a spare set of hands helps here). (Only pour enough cement to come flush to the ground; that way you can you can pull your target and mow over it if you need too.) Use a level on two sides 90° apart to get the pipe straight up and let it set overnight. You can pull the pipe right out after the cement cures and drop it back in when it’s time to use it; give it a little twist before you pull up, it will come out much easier.
(You can also set this hole up in an old tire or large bucket if you want to move the target around, but if you do adjust the cut of the base pole as it may be a bit too high off the ground).

Step 3: Step 2, Start Cutting

Step2: Start cutting! You can refer to the drawing for dimensions of the lengths of the cuts or read them below. Use a chop saw for the PVC pipe and a table saw for the 55-gallon drum if you can; you’ll get clean, straight cuts so things will go together square.

·         For the ‘basket’ cut the top of the 55-gallon drum off 8” from rim and for the ‘top’ cut the bottom of the drum off 4” from the end. You want to use the top part of the drum as the ‘basket’ because if you remove the two screwed-in plugs they make great drain holes for when it rains. Use the bottom of the drum as the ‘top’ so it helps keep the rain and leaves out. I set up my table saw with an 8” fence off-set for the basket and used a piece of 4” wide board to set against the fence for the top. If you only have a hand saw (powered or otherwise) they only trick is drawing a straight line around the circumference. If it’s not perfectly straight don’t sweat it, you won’t notice it 10’ feet away anyway.

Cut some 2” PVC pipe into two lengths; 27” and 36”. Use a chop saw (if you can) so the end will be square. This way the top will be square with the basket. The 27” cut  (for the inside pipe) will give you the regulation 19” minimum gap between the top and the rim of the basket, and if you bury the 36” pipe (base pole) 12” deep it will give you the regulation 24” basket height above ground. You may make either one a little longer if you want a larger gap or a deeper basket (baskets must be 7” deep minimum) but these cuts will keep you honest.

Step 4: Step 3, Keep Cutting!

Step 3: Keep cutting! You need to cut your chain into 24” lengths. 31’ of cut chain isn’t as common as the 10’ lengths you can buy by the box [almost anywhere] so you don’t have any scrap when you’re done. 3 boxes of 10’ chain will give you 15 pieces (that’s why I use 15 chains…12 is the minimum but that few won’t stop as many discs as 15 will and if you buy it by the box you’re gonna get stuck with some left over chain; might as well get good use of it).

  • I use a composite cut-off blade in my angle grinder to cut the links. I clamp the to-be-cut link in a bench vice, cut the link with the composite blade and then (while the link is still clamped in the vice) use a hammer to ‘twist’ one end of the link enough to provide enough clearance to get the chain apart. If you do cut your chain apart this way PLEASE, PLEASE use safety glasses and hearing protection! You DO NOT want to be on the receiving end of a shattered disk at 7,500 rpm…trust me, it’s not pleasant (and could even be fatal!).
  • See the picture to see my set up. If you don’t have these tools you can use a hack-saw, a reciprocating saw (with a bi-metal blade) or (if you’re really cheap) you can have the Home Depot dude cut out each and every 2’ length for you, but if you’re going to make more than one target [like me!] you may think twice about this (if you value any relationship that you may have developed there).
Also note: I also use Passing Link chain (instead of Straight link chain) because it is wider than Straight link. Since the only job of the chain is to stop the disc it helps to have as much ‘width’ as possible; besides, if it does cost more per foot it will only be about 3 to 4 cents more. The chain is the single most expensive part of this design so it won’t break the bank to not go cheap here.

Step 5: Step 4, Drill!

Step 4: Drill! You’ll need a ¼” and a 13/64” drill (use can use a 7/32” drill in place of the 13/64” drill but you S-Hooks may be a bit loose).

·         First, mark out 15 evenly spaced holes about ½” up from the lip of the rim of the ‘top’ (4” deep end of 55-gallon drum). How (you might ask)? I used a sewing and stitching guide; those are those funny little 6” rulers with the slot in the middle (and the little slide in that slot) that you find in the fabric store. Set the tips 4 ¾” apart and use a Sharpie to mark each holes location along the rim. Use the 13/64” drill for these rim holes.

·         Second, switch out drill bits to the ¼” bit, grab the 3 PVC Closet Flanges. You will use them as templates for the holes you need to drill in the bottoms of the basket and the top. Turn the basket and the top rim-side-down so you don’t drill through your floor (or table). Center up one of the flanges on each drum part and drill one of the four holes. Set one of the ¼ -20 bolts though this hole and (if you have to) re-center the opposite hole and then though-drill it. Now, drop another bolt through this second hole so the flange won’t wander when you drill the third and forth hole. Drill them out as well.

·         Do this for both the top and the basket.

·         While you have the ¼” drill chucked up go ahead and run it though the third Closet Flange’s holes, as these holes tend to be a very tight ¼”.

Step 6: Step 5, Assembly

Step 5: Finally! Assembly!

·         Bond two of the 2” to 3” bushings on each end of the 27” piece of PVC pipe and one on the end of the 36” PVC pipe. Goop up the inside of the bushings with a little PVC glue and push them down on the ends good and hard (to seat them completely). DON’T goof this up because [as any plumber will tell you] once you set two pieces of PVC together with that glue there ain’t no getting them apart…ever.

·         Now, bond up only two of the Closet Flanges, one at each end of the 27” long PVC pipe. Make sure you get them completely seated on the bushing. If you don’t the gap between the top and basket will be off. Refer to the picture here; it should look like this.

·         Don’t bond up the last Closet Flange; it will go on the one end of the 36” long pipe (with the bushing on it) but not for some time.

·         A few minutes after you bond up both ends of the 27” PVC tube you can bolt one end of it up to the inside of the ‘top’ using the carriage bolts. Start the bolts on the top of the ‘top’ (upper side) so they are just buttons on the top. Use a flat washer, a lock-washer and a nut to secure the Closet Flange to the top from the inside. As you draw the nuts tight the carriage bolts will sink in to the softer plastic drum and keep the head will from turning as you tighten each bolt down. Tighten them down enough to draw the drum and the flange tight together without any gaps between them.

·         Now place the other flange on the 27” pipe down in the bottom of the basket and push the 4 hex-head bolts though the flange and the base of the basket. They may be a bit tight, so you can use a power-driver with a 7/16” socket head on them to drive them thorough. Drive them as far though as you can without chewing up your rugs or carpet. It may help to rest the basket across a couple of 2x4’s.

Flip the whole assembly on its top and fit that last Closet Flange (the un-bonded one) to the four protruding bolts now sticking out of the bottom of the basket. Once again, it may help to have a power-driver to do this as well; it may be tight. Put the flat washers, the lock washers and the nuts on these bolts and tighten them down too. You’re almost done…

Step 7: Step 6, Hang the Chains

Step 6: Hang the chains!

·         The target should look like the photo; minus the chains and S-hooks. If it doesn’t…start over.

·         If it does, hang a S-Hook in each hole on the top rim. Put them in from the outside because 1) it’s easier and 2) the chains will hang from the outside in. This will make sure that when you hit them with a disc [from the outside] they will stay on.

·         Hang the chains on next, one on each S-Hook, alternating from side to side to keep the balanced target from falling over. Drape them in the basket as you go. You may crimp the S-Hooks together if you fear the chains may come off, but I have not found it necessary.

Thread the 3” ring (or bailing wire) through the bottom link of each hanging chain and secure about the center tube. You can use those really big plastic coated wire ties that you find in the home-and-garden section for this as well. They don’t look as cool, but should last a lifetime.

Step 8: Step 7, Set It Up

Step 7: Set it up! You can do one of two things here, the choice is yours:

1.       Put the 36” post in the cement hole in the ground and just snug the target down on top of the 2” to 3” bushing. It may take a little pounding on the top of the target to get it to seat all of the way down, but this setup allows you to pull the target out of the ground and then remove the post from the bottom of the target (although it may be real tight).

2.       Put the 36” post in the base of the basket first. To do this lay the target over slowly on it’s side (a few chains may fall off the S-Hooks but you can hang them right back up) and put a little PVC cement in the bore of the Closet Flange [attached to the underside of the basket] and glue the 36” post into it before you drop it in the hole in the ground. If you do it this way you may need to ‘tap’ the bushing in flush to the Closet Flange. Use a small piece of 2x4 [wood] on cut the end of the pipe; you don’t want to bugger up this end as it needs to slip into that cement hole and come back out again.

I did it like #2 because I have no need to dismantle them after I put them in. I also did it this way because I suspect that the bonded method will last longer and the target will be a bit stiffer at impact from the disc, but that’s just the engineer in me speaking out loud.

 

Last, if you really want to perfect this design, hang another 6 each 24” long chains from some eye-bolts from up inside the top evenly spaced on an 8” diameter circle (just outside the edges of the Closet Flange up underneath there). Use another 3” ring on the bottom to secure them around the inner post. It will add another $17 or so to the cost of the target but the design can easily handle it. You can always add them later if you want. That’s up to you.

 

Any questions? Just ask! I’m sure that I might have missed something that I thought to be obvious, so the only stupid question is the one you don’t ask.

Step 9: Epilogue

   I have finished setting up 5 of these targets around the vicinity of the house and the barn. I set most them up to be between 200 to 300 feet apart (Par 3's). Some of them were also located to be over 350' from others so that I can have a few Par 4's if I want. All-in-all I have either a 12-hole course with 8 Par 3's and 4 Par 4's or a 14-hole course with a few Par 2's thrown in there. I may put up a 6th target over the swamp but I haven't decided yet if I will play it often enough to warrant it. As it is I go home for lunch and shoot 4 - 5 holes with my dogs and shoot all 12 holes at least 3 times a week. It has improved my game 100-fold as well.
    The targets themselves have weathered very, very well and have proven sturdy enough for my 75# chocolate lab to hold on to the lip and retrieve her Frisbees from inside the basket without damaging them in any way.
    Here is cropped aerial shot of my house and barn clipped from the net with the hole locations noted on it. I used this photo to layout my course so that I have good variety and some challenges. Thanks to all of you I'ble subscribers for your input. I appreciate it.

Comments

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KenG31 (author)2016-02-13

just picked up 13 barrels from a friend. He works in a large scale machine shop. Looking forward to starting my project. I like your design!

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Prospects9 made it! (author)2015-11-16

I made mine with a 32 gallon trash can because I couldn't find a drum. I like this because it makes is a little harder to make it in which is good for practice. Also, I put a Christmas tree stand on bottom to make it portable. Instead of buying a toilet flange and bushing, I bought a 2" socket flange to eliminate the bushing. It works great. Great instruct able I based much of my project off of this.

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bergiemoore (author)2012-07-20

It would be very helpful if you created a list of supplies like
1- 5', 2" pvc pipe,
3- Closet Flange 3x4" Pvc,
etc. stuff like that. and added it to this page :)
Thanks for posting.

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GaylonD1 (author)bergiemoore2015-09-13

at the top it says Download, all steps (icon w/ grid), 9 steps, and an arrow pointing right. Click download and you can save all 9 steps. Or you have to click show all, or click to the next step. This is only the 1st page of a 9 page instructable...took me a couple times to catch on too.

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eightrax made it! (author)2015-04-17

Built this bad boy here in Cornwall. 40mm plumbers pipe, flanges and split rings... nice and simple :-) Pictured with and without inner chains.

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Damon V (author)2015-03-24

Great Job on the instructions can't get any better then that. I made mine the other day. I got the 55gal drum from work I have enough to make a 24 hole course lol. Instead of putting mine in the ground I attack a steel plate with another flange to it and added a 2" threaded coupling in nipple so it can be portable. I'm glad I come across this post.

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dave.bornhoft (author)2015-01-13

Made from mineral tubs for cattle. Anyone who lives the "livestock lifestyle" knows these tubs are plentiful and they just happen to be the perfect radius for a basket. Convenient when visiting family back home where, unfortunately, there is no course...yet.

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wstevens4 (author)2014-05-28

me and my brother are making some targets, on the first one for the base we are using a 12'' aluminum motorcycle rim so it should be light weight...will post pics when it is done. :)

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wstevens4 (author)wstevens42014-05-29

almost done with it...here is a pic

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Disc Dog (author)wstevens42014-05-28

I like your thinkin'! You can probably pick up used motorcycle rims for pennies on the pound at a motorcycle salvage lot I imagine!

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logan20seb (author)2013-07-26

Thank you for the great instructions!! This inspired me when I was building my basket, and helped a lot when figuring out how to put the pvc all together. You the man! You can take a look at mine here https://www.instructables.com/id/Disc-Golf-Goal-all-parts-from-Lowes-Inexpensive/ it wouldn't have come together without your post :)

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Disc Dog (author)2013-04-11

Looks nice JThrow! I especially like the base.

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JThrow (author)2013-04-10

Thanks Disc Dog for the great instructions. You inspired me to make my own basket using a 55 gallon drum. I picked the drum up from a carwash nearby for $10. I used a 1.5" metal conduit for the pole because it was in my garage along with a few materials I found around my house, I used an umbrella base to hold it, and for chains I used rope covered with a garden hose that I cut up into 1.5" "links". I used the closet flanges with the 3" to 1.5" coupler. All in all it cost me about $30 to build. It catches much better than the Instep basket I have that is next to it in the picture. Thanks again for the great ideas and instructions. Here's the picture of mine...

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philrhorn (author)2012-07-04

My son plays disc golf and has talked about adding a course so I've been looking at the cheapest way to make the baskets. Great design. I already use the drums as feeders for my animals and floatation for my dock. You can buy them at feed stores from $15-30ea.

I've a couple questions.

How strong is the flanged bottom section?
I was thinking of having it be one length of PVC for strength and have it go through the bottom. You could still use the flanges for supporting the bottom but I think it would be a stronger joint. This could also allow you to use T posts to support it on which would also make the target portable. What do you think?

In order to bring down the cost even more, could you use old garden hose instead of chains? I've plenty of that laying around.

Thanks, Phil

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Disc Dog (author)philrhorn2012-07-05

The flanged bottom is strong enough to survive my 70# Chocolate Lab leaning up on the lip and pulling a Frisbee out (when I actually make a basket :). I'm not too sure how you can make the PVC tube one piece as each of the fittings are tapered or have stops in them. Actually, keeping them in two pieces, and NOT gluing in the bottom tube, turns out to be a blessing. It come apart for easy transportation and the lack of glue doesn't seem to affect its rigidity.

Using a short T-post works good as a semi-permanent support if you can keep it from rattling around and leaning on the post with some inner shims. I have found that just using a post-hole digger and putting sand around them makes for a good setup and makes them easier to relocate/remove when you need to. It's almost as easy as putting in then puling a T-post.

I doubt garden hose would make a good target stop, and they sure would not behave like chains would. If you only want a target to aim at (and not worry about getting in the basket) just paint a strip on a pole like they did in the old days of disc golf.

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zigzagchris (author)2011-06-05

Lucky to have a nice course around your house. I teach discgolf at my camp and its so much fun.

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Disc Dog (author)zigzagchris2011-06-07

Thanks Chris. I played 96 holes this weekend down in Pensacola. They have a lot of courses down south where it seems to have become a way of life!

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zigzagchris (author)Disc Dog2011-06-07

Lucky, up in new england it is not as well known. Out side my camp iv only been able to find one course nearby and it was not in the best of shape...

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DikkaD (author)2010-10-13

Some other forums have suggested using a X-mas tree stand to hold it up or an umbrella rack. I think I am going to do mine in a cement tire tho because Im not planning on moving it around to far/much but want to have the option to do so (Its heavier therefore more stable). Thanks KB for keeping me busy!

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Disc Dog (author)DikkaD2010-10-14

I like your thinking...however, depending one how many locations you plan on 'wheeling' your target around to, it may be cheaper (and easier) just of dig a few holes [in those loactions where you want to put the target] and fill them with cement. Pour the cement around a cut off section of base pipe wrapped in an even layer of strong plastic pacaking tape. That way when the cement hardens and you pull the hole-forming pipe you get a hole with a slight clearence. Then just pick the target out of one hole and stick it in one of the others. Just a suggestion...

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DikkaD (author)Disc Dog2010-10-14

That would not work for my situation as I am wheeling it across the street to a small park. I am looking in to using some sort of stand, possibly with a way to temporally anchor it to the ground. Anything to get my mid range game better!!

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Disc Dog (author)DikkaD2010-10-14

One guy said that if you can find a good, used heavy duty light stand (for portable work lights) that you can just slip the PVC tube over the shaft on the base of the stand. That seemed to work fine.

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Westyii (author)2010-08-10

AWESOME !!! Built this today after work. Took me just about 2 1/2 hours. The Instructions are spot on, had to play around a little with the chain spacing because I forgot to pick up the sewing gadget you mentioned. I took a video from my cell phone and plan to post the final on YouTube. I will be sure to thank you for your creativity. Oh and instead of sinking the pole, I was able to make it a portable basket by slipping the PVC pole over an old work light stand. You can find these pretty cheap at yard sales and salvage or surplus stores, you can see it in the video. It fit perfect, without any modifications! It did raise the height of my basket from 24" to about 27" but that';s ok with me. Thanks again A+ build, now to test it out tomorrow!!!! woo-hoo!

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Emsaid (author)2010-07-29

i never saw it, but how long are each strands of chain?

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Disc Dog (author)Emsaid2010-08-02

I cut them at 24" (2') each. If you buy a 31' length of chain you can cut the 15 chains with out short changing them; you will have @ 6" left over.

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pie popper (author)2010-06-24

i was wondering what is the diameter of this, and what is the diameter of an official basket

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Disc Dog (author)pie popper2010-06-24

I mentioned it somewhere in the text, but the baskets in this 'ible are only 23 1/2" diameter and an official target is 24 1/2" to 26 1/2" wide; these targets are a little bit more difficult to hit. Other than that, they are 'official' in size and construction to the real McCoys.

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brees1525 (author)2010-06-07

As far as chain cutting goes. It looks like you used thicker chain than regulation. You should use 2/0 straight link coil chain. And the 2/0 chain is easy as hell to cut with bolt cutters. I used crappy 20 dollar bolt cutters from Walmart to cut my chain and it was pretty dang easy. Also you should use 2 layers of chain, 12 outside and 6 inside.

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Disc Dog (author)brees15252010-06-09

Well, actually if you go to the pdga.com website you find that there is no 'size' callout to the chain, it mearly says 'metal chain' (and commercially built target use 5/0 chain; much bigger and heavier with better stopping power). As for the number and layers, it depends if it's defined as a Basic, Standard or Championship Target. The Basic has no chain number callout (it is a painted strip on a post); the Standard (which I talk about in my ible) only needs one layer with a minimum of 12 strands of 'metal chain'. You are in reference to a Champion Target which needs two layers of chains. But don't take my word for it...go here for all the gruesome details: http://www.pdga.com/files/documents/PDGATechStandards_121909.pdf

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8lbhammerhead (author)2010-05-19

has anyone heard of bolt cutters? much quieter,safer and quicker for cutting chains.

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Disc Dog (author)8lbhammerhead2010-05-20

Yea, that would be another good way to do it for sure, but I don't have a pair (and I'm too cheap to buy a tool like that, especially if I only use it for making targets :-). I've just never needed one. And (if you're not built like Arnold S) a good pair (big enough to cut this chain) will set you back $30-$50...like I said I'm cheap (and lazy :-)!

PS Have you tried to cut 30-45 links of chain non-stop with a bolt cutter? Without a really big one it will flat wear you out. (That's the 'lazy' part of me talkin'...)

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Bard (author)2010-03-20

 For portability, Ive noticed that portable basket ball hoops have a can that you can add water to weight it down. Would it be possible to attach these targets to something like that to make it portable then just fill it with water when you get it to where your going?

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Disc Dog (author)Bard2010-03-25

The only way I have figured out to make this design 'portable' is to not glue in the base pole and toss the upper part of the target, the base pole and a tire filled with cement (one that has the hole for the 2" PVC pipe formed in it) in the back of a hatchback with enough room for the upper assembly. If you do that, make sure you crimp the S-Hooks around the top link of the chains, as if this lays on its side they may slip off in transit.

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SureShot (author)2010-03-18

Very cool Instructable! I really like the white and red one. The only thing that could make it even sweeter would be a lite weight, yet sturdy, movable base! How cool would that be! You could set up anywhere. Good job and thanks! Here comes spring and this project is going to the top of my list.

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Disc Dog (author)SureShot2010-03-18

I couldn't come up with a good idea for a light weight yet sturdy portable base; that's why I figured cement holes were cheap and easy to put up in multiple locations if you only wanted to build one target. There is a 'portable' target you can buy for $175, and as far as the basket is concerned it's a good target, but the base is just 4 bent wire legs, but no matter how you hit it they are just not very sturdy and the target moves quite a bit on a hard shot. If you want to make this thing portable I recommend you make your cement hole in an old car tire (like how the old teether-ball posts were mounted years ago). It should be steady enough for even the most direct of hits, but you can roll it around the yard easy enough without lifting it :-)

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SureShot (author)Disc Dog2010-03-19

I just got 3 barrels for 30 bucks delivered! Man I love craigslist!

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Disc Dog (author)SureShot2010-03-19

Sweet! $10 each! You can't beat that. If they were filled with something you're gonna need to clean out, I saw an Instructable on how to clean them out. I'm setting up a third hole this weekend so I'll be good for 6-holes soon.

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Marsh (author)2010-03-18

 Nicely done!

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dougistre (author)2010-03-18

Have you thought about cementing pipe in the ground so you could move the basket to other locations? Say put 1-2 ft of pipe in the ground and then slide the PVC pipe in the pipe in the ground? Just a thought so you could change your shot.

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Disc Dog (author)dougistre2010-03-18

I have at that (and I like your thinking) but I didn't do it this way for several reasons: for starters, I couldn't find a good, commonly available 'inner pipe' whose ID was close enough to the OD of the 2" shed 40 to keep the target straight up n' down, I also didn't relish the idea of an uncovered pipe sticking up from the ground (especially at night, or when there's snow on the ground or when the wife-unit is mowing the lawn:-) and [lastly] I did recommend cementing in the hole so you can pull the target out just as easy but the hole still remains (it serves the same purpose as the pipe you referenced). This way the target is just as movable, but it cost less and a little safer for when the target is not up. As far as changing your shot, one of the cool things about disc golf is that you can shoot at the same target from 4 different directions and [chances are] you will have 4 different shots. Three targets and you have 6 different holes; I'm only going to put up 5 targets to make a 9-hole course :-).

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dougistre (author)Disc Dog2010-03-18

My bad, I didn't read the entire instructable. After my comment I saw where you had the removable post. As far as the 4 directions, you can have as many holes per basket as you have tee boxes. I really like your instructable and will be following your lead. Good luck with your baskets and your 9 hole course. May the Disc Gods look down on you when you shoot and say WOW what a shot!!!!!!!! Enjoy....

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Disc Dog (author)dougistre2010-03-18

No biggie Doug. As far as "WOW", I have to laugh because about a week after I got the first one up my WIFE shot the first hole-in-one on it...NOT ME! And she doesn't even play it that often ! ! ! What's with that =8-O!?

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dougistre (author)Disc Dog2010-03-18

I didn't see the =8-0! on my screen, so I don't have any idea. Congrates to your wife, Now show her how it's done. Ha Ha.... Good Luck.

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W.A. (author)2010-03-18

Well done!  Have have looked into making targets for home and never quite could find the right materials.  I will be using this instructable very shortly and will likely make a PVC base so that it is transportable.

Where is a good source to find these barrels?

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Covo (author)W.A.2010-03-18

 I agree...the "tone pole" in my back yard ain't cuttin' it!!!

you might try Craig's List for the barrels.  Not sure where you are from but i did a search in SF Bay Area and I got 3-4 sources within a 1/2 hour from my house (south bay).

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JerryMopar (author)2010-03-18

And for ultimate DIY, you could make the chains out of poptabs!

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Disc Dog (author)JerryMopar2010-03-18

Maybe...but 2 things come to mind: A) 2/0 chain is barely heavy enough to stop a disc in flight (most pro targets use chain twice that weight but at twice that cost!) because that is the sole purpose of the chain and B) can you even buy any beverage that uses poptabs [that can be chained together] in the US today?

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usLEDsupply (author)2010-03-17

I just sent the link for this to the guys on my ultimate frisbee team- I bet one of them will try to make it!!!  Thanks for sharing :-)

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zigzagchris (author)2010-03-10

Just putting it out discgolf is the best sport DiscOvered

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onrust (author)2010-03-10

Blue barrels Rock!

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Bio: A jack of all trades and a master of many; I was the Sr R&D Engineer and Manager of R&D for a very ... More »
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