Welcome to another outstanding Instructable from Kentucky Bum! In this Instructable I will show you how to build a kick-ass disc golf target. I have seen numerous plans (and even some for sale) but I didn’t care for any of them; too hooky, too flimsy, not robust enough, not weather-proof enough or just poorly designed. None of the parts in most any of these plans are ‘cheap’ by any standard, but if you are going to put something up outside, leave it there and expect to survive against the weather and a never-ending assault of hard, plastic discs it has to have some mass to it. If it has mass, it’s gonna cost you (KB axiom #28).
A commercial ‘portable’ target that fits in bag cost $120, a commercial semi-permanent one (all metal with a 4-legged base) will cost $175 and a pro version is gonna cost you about $400. Here’s my version of the ultimate home disc golf target. It should cost you about $95 to $100 per target (and take you about 4-man hours to build) but it should last you a long, long time.
 One more note, with the exception of the outer diameter of the ‘basket’ (made from the 55-gallon drum) this target is pretty close to the target specifications shown on the PDGA.com website. For an ‘approved’ target the diameters for the basket should be 24.5” to 27.5”, but most drums are only 23 ½” in diameter, so these will be a bit ‘tight’ for the basket, however it should make you a better ‘golfer’; your practice target should always be a little tougher than a real one anyway.

Here is a picture of my second basket which I put up last weekend. It is made from a barrel that has a bonded on top and bottom. It looks much, much better.

Step 1: What you will need

Here’s an exploded drawing of all of the components with dimensions (minus the chains). You may wish to print it out and refer to it while you assemble this target.

Here’s what you’ll need:

·         1 ea plastic 55-gallon drum ($10 to $40 depending on location and patience)

·         3 ea PVC 3” Closet Flanges ($2.50 to $4.50 depending on design; but buy the cheapest); these are the large circular flanges that you bolt toilet seats down to, so you know they are strong.

·         3 ea PVC 3” to 2” step down bushing (~$2.50 ea). These allow you to bond a 2” PVC pipe into a 3” Closet Flange.

·         63” of 2” PVC Schedule 40 pipe (the thick stuff, not the thin stuff); I buy the 10’ pipe (for about $5.50 ea) two at a time; they will make 1 ½ targets each so you will get 3 targets for the $11 worth of pipe.

·         31’ of 2/0 chain Passing Link (usually about $1.14/ft) OR 3 ea 10’ boxes of the same chain (I’ll tell you why I use 30’ and why I don’t use Straight Link chain below)

·         15 ea #60 S-Hooks (~$3 a bag for 6)

·         1 ea 3” diameter hinged binder ring (Office Depot sells these for $1.50 each). This is to gather the chains around the center tube. You can use a large twisty tie or even some bailing wire to do this as well, but it doesn’t look as cool. You can also use a large nylon zip tie, but they don’t last long being exposed to the weather so plan on finding that 3” ring someday.

·         4 ea ¼ - 20 x 1 ½“ Carriage bolts

·         4 ea ¼ - 20 x 2” hex-head bolts

·         8 ea ¼ - 20 nuts

·         8 ea ¼“ flat washers

·         8 ea ¼” lock washers

·         PVC cement (glue)

·         1 ea bag of Redi-mix concrete cement; usually less than $3/bag for one 80# bag which will do two holes or just buy a 40# bag for each hole (a bit more usually).


Here’s the tools you’ll need:

  • Saws; preferably a chop saw and a table saw. These are to cut the PVC pipe and 55-gallon plastic drum with.
  • Drill w/ 2 different sized drill bits: ¼” and 13/64” (a 7/16” can be substituted for the 13/64” if you don’t have one).
  • 7/16” wrench (or socket set with that socket). A socket driver for your drill would be best.
  • Grinder w/composite blade (to cut chain), bench vice and hammer (to split chain). You can use a reciprocating saw with a bi-metal bit or a hack saw too, but it may take you a while…
It would be very helpful if you created a list of supplies like <br> 1- 5', 2&quot; pvc pipe, <br>3- Closet Flange 3x4&quot; Pvc, <br>etc. stuff like that. and added it to this page :) <br>Thanks for posting.
<p>at the top it says Download, all steps (icon w/ grid), 9 steps, and an arrow pointing right. Click download and you can save all 9 steps. Or you have to click show all, or click to the next step. This is only the 1st page of a 9 page instructable...took me a couple times to catch on too.</p>
<p>Built this bad boy here in Cornwall. 40mm plumbers pipe, flanges and split rings... nice and simple :-) Pictured with and without inner chains.</p>
Great Job on the instructions can't get any better then that. I made mine the other day. I got the 55gal drum from work I have enough to make a 24 hole course lol. Instead of putting mine in the ground I attack a steel plate with another flange to it and added a 2&quot; threaded coupling in nipple so it can be portable. I'm glad I come across this post.
Made from mineral tubs for cattle. Anyone who lives the &quot;livestock lifestyle&quot; knows these tubs are plentiful and they just happen to be the perfect radius for a basket. Convenient when visiting family back home where, unfortunately, there is no course...yet.
<p>me and my brother are making some targets, on the first one for the base we are using a 12'' aluminum motorcycle rim so it should be light weight...will post pics when it is done. :)</p>
<p>almost done with it...here is a pic </p>
I like your thinkin'! You can probably pick up used motorcycle rims for pennies on the pound at a motorcycle salvage lot I imagine!
Thank you for the great instructions!! This inspired me when I was building my basket, and helped a lot when figuring out how to put the pvc all together. You the man! You can take a look at mine here http://www.instructables.com/id/Disc-Golf-Goal-all-parts-from-Lowes-Inexpensive/ it wouldn't have come together without your post :)
Awesome. I saw something like this on a <a href="http://womengolfgear.com/Golf-Apparel/35/index1.html" rel="nofollow">ladies golf shirt</a> once.
Looks nice JThrow! I especially like the base.
Thanks Disc Dog for the great instructions. You inspired me to make my own basket using a 55 gallon drum. I picked the drum up from a carwash nearby for $10. I used a 1.5&quot; metal conduit for the pole because it was in my garage along with a few materials I found around my house, I used an umbrella base to hold it, and for chains I used rope covered with a garden hose that I cut up into 1.5&quot; &quot;links&quot;. I used the closet flanges with the 3&quot; to 1.5&quot; coupler. All in all it cost me about $30 to build. It catches much better than the Instep basket I have that is next to it in the picture. Thanks again for the great ideas and instructions. Here's the picture of mine...
My son plays disc golf and has talked about adding a course so I've been looking at the cheapest way to make the baskets. Great design. I already use the drums as feeders for my animals and floatation for my dock. You can buy them at feed stores from $15-30ea. <br /> <br />I've a couple questions. <br /> <br />How strong is the flanged bottom section? <br /> I was thinking of having it be one length of PVC for strength and have it go through the bottom. You could still use the flanges for supporting the bottom but I think it would be a stronger joint. This could also allow you to use T posts to support it on which would also make the target portable. What do you think? <br /> <br />In order to bring down the cost even more, could you use old garden hose instead of chains? I've plenty of that laying around. <br /> <br />Thanks, Phil
The flanged bottom is strong enough to survive my 70# Chocolate Lab leaning up on the lip and pulling a Frisbee out (when I actually make a basket :). I'm not too sure how you can make the PVC tube one piece as each of the fittings are tapered or have stops in them. Actually, keeping them in two pieces, and NOT gluing in the bottom tube, turns out to be a blessing. It come apart for easy transportation and the lack of glue doesn't seem to affect its rigidity.<br /><br />Using a short T-post works good as a semi-permanent support if you can keep it from rattling around and leaning on the post with some inner shims. I have found that just using a post-hole digger and putting sand around them makes for a good setup and makes them easier to relocate/remove when you need to. It's almost as easy as putting in then puling a T-post.<br /><br />I doubt garden hose would make a good target stop, and they sure would not behave like chains would. If you only want a target to aim at (and not worry about getting in the basket) just paint a strip on a pole like they did in the old days of disc golf.
Lucky to have a nice course around your house. I teach discgolf at my camp and its so much fun.<br>
Thanks Chris. I played 96 holes this weekend down in Pensacola. They have a lot of courses down south where it seems to have become a way of life!
Lucky, up in new england it is not as well known. Out side my camp iv only been able to find one course nearby and it was not in the best of shape...
Have you tried dgcoursereview.com? They seem to know about courses that don't show up on most DG course sites.
Some other forums have suggested using a X-mas tree stand to hold it up or an umbrella rack. I think I am going to do mine in a cement tire tho because Im not planning on moving it around to far/much but want to have the option to do so (Its heavier therefore more stable). Thanks KB for keeping me busy!
I like your thinking...however, depending one how many locations you plan on 'wheeling' your target around to, it may be cheaper (and easier) just of dig a few holes [in those loactions where you want to put the target] and fill them with cement. Pour the cement around a cut off section of base pipe wrapped in an even layer of strong plastic pacaking tape. That way when the cement hardens and you pull the hole-forming pipe you get a hole with a slight clearence. Then just pick the target out of one hole and stick it in one of the others. Just a suggestion...
That would not work for my situation as I am wheeling it across the street to a small park. I am looking in to using some sort of stand, possibly with a way to temporally anchor it to the ground. Anything to get my mid range game better!!
One guy said that if you can find a good, used heavy duty light stand (for portable work lights) that you can just slip the PVC tube over the shaft on the base of the stand. That seemed to work fine.
AWESOME !!! Built this today after work. Took me just about 2 1/2 hours. The Instructions are spot on, had to play around a little with the chain spacing because I forgot to pick up the sewing gadget you mentioned. I took a video from my cell phone and plan to post the final on YouTube. I will be sure to thank you for your creativity. Oh and instead of sinking the pole, I was able to make it a portable basket by slipping the PVC pole over an old work light stand. You can find these pretty cheap at yard sales and salvage or surplus stores, you can see it in the video. It fit perfect, without any modifications! It did raise the height of my basket from 24&quot; to about 27&quot; but that';s ok with me. Thanks again A+ build, now to test it out tomorrow!!!! woo-hoo!
i never saw it, but how long are each strands of chain?
I cut them at 24&quot; (2') each. If you buy a 31' length of chain you can cut the 15 chains with out short changing them; you will have @ 6&quot; left over.
i was wondering what is the diameter of this, and what is the diameter of an official basket
I mentioned it somewhere in the text, but the baskets in this 'ible are only 23 1/2&quot; diameter and an official target is 24 1/2&quot; to 26 1/2&quot; wide; these targets are a little bit more difficult to hit. Other than that, they are 'official' in size and construction to the real McCoys.
As far as chain cutting goes. It looks like you used thicker chain than regulation. You should use 2/0 straight link coil chain. And the 2/0 chain is easy as hell to cut with bolt cutters. I used crappy 20 dollar bolt cutters from Walmart to cut my chain and it was pretty dang easy. Also you should use 2 layers of chain, 12 outside and 6 inside.
Well, actually if you go to the pdga.com website you find that there is no 'size' callout to the chain, it mearly says 'metal chain' (and commercially built target use 5/0 chain; much bigger and heavier with better stopping power). As for the number and layers, it depends if it's defined as a Basic, Standard or Championship Target. The Basic has no chain number callout (it is a painted strip on a post); the Standard (which I talk about in my ible) only needs one layer with a minimum of 12 strands of 'metal chain'. You are in reference to a Champion Target which needs two layers of chains. But don't take my word for it...go here for all the gruesome details: http://www.pdga.com/files/documents/PDGATechStandards_121909.pdf
has anyone heard of bolt cutters? much quieter,safer and quicker for cutting chains.
Yea, that would be another good way to do it for sure,&nbsp;but I don't have a pair (and I'm too cheap to buy a tool like that, especially if I only use it for making targets :-). I've just never needed one. And (if you're not built like Arnold S) a&nbsp;good pair (big enough to cut this chain) will set you back $30-$50...like I said I'm cheap (and lazy :-)!<br /> <br /> PS Have you tried to cut 30-45 links of chain non-stop with a bolt cutter? Without a really big one it will flat wear you out. (That's the 'lazy' part of me talkin'...)
&nbsp;For portability, Ive noticed that portable basket ball hoops have a can that you can add water to&nbsp;weight&nbsp;it down. Would it be possible to attach these&nbsp;targets&nbsp;to something like that to make it&nbsp;portable&nbsp;then just fill it with water when you get it to where your going?
The only way I have figured out to make this design 'portable' is to not glue in the base pole and toss the upper part of the target, the base pole and a tire filled with cement (one that has the hole for the 2&quot; PVC pipe formed in it) in the back of a hatchback with enough room for the upper assembly. If you do that, make sure you crimp the S-Hooks around the top link of the chains, as if this lays on its side they may slip off in transit.
Very cool Instructable! I really like the white and red one. The only thing that could make it even sweeter would be a lite weight, yet sturdy, movable base!&nbsp;How cool would that be! You could set up anywhere. Good job and thanks! Here comes spring and this project is going to the top of my list.
<p>I couldn't come up with a good idea for a light weight yet sturdy portable base; that's why I figured cement holes were cheap and easy to put up in multiple locations if you only wanted to build one target. There is a 'portable' target you can buy for $175, and as far as the basket is concerned it's a good target, but the base is just 4 bent wire legs, but no matter how you hit it they are just not very sturdy and the target moves quite a bit on a hard shot. If you want to make this thing portable I recommend you make your cement&nbsp;hole in an old car&nbsp;tire (like how the old teether-ball posts were mounted years ago). It should be steady enough for even the most direct of hits, but you can roll it around the yard easy enough without lifting it :-)</p>
I just got 3&nbsp;barrels for 30 bucks delivered! Man I love craigslist!
Sweet! $10 each! You can't beat that. If they were filled with something you're gonna need to clean out, I saw an Instructable on how to clean them out. I'm setting up a third hole this weekend so I'll be good for 6-holes soon.
&nbsp;Nicely done!
Have you thought about cementing pipe in the ground so you could move the basket to other locations? Say put&nbsp;1-2 ft of pipe in the ground and then slide the PVC pipe in the pipe in the ground? Just a thought so you could change your shot.
I have at that (and I like your thinking)&nbsp;but I didn't do it this way for several reasons: for starters, I couldn't find a good, commonly available 'inner pipe' whose ID was close enough to the OD of the 2&quot; shed 40 to keep the target straight up n' down, I also didn't relish&nbsp;the idea of an uncovered&nbsp;pipe sticking up from the ground (especially&nbsp;at night, or when there's snow on the&nbsp;ground or when the wife-unit is mowing the lawn:-)&nbsp;and [lastly] I did recommend cementing in the hole so you can pull the target out just as easy but the hole still remains (it serves the same purpose as the pipe you referenced). This way the target is just as movable, but it cost less and a little safer for when the target is not up. As far as changing your shot, one of the cool things about disc golf is that you can shoot at the same target from 4 different directions and [chances are] you will have 4 different shots. Three targets and you have 6 different holes; I'm&nbsp;only going to put up 5&nbsp;targets to make a 9-hole course&nbsp;:-).
My bad, I didn't read the entire instructable. After my comment I saw where you had the removable post. As far as the 4 directions, you can have as many holes per basket as you have tee boxes. I really like your instructable and will be following your lead. Good luck with your baskets and your 9 hole course. May the Disc Gods look down on you when you shoot and say WOW what a shot!!!!!!!! Enjoy....
No biggie Doug. As far as &quot;WOW&quot;, I have to laugh because about a week after I got the first one up my WIFE shot the first hole-in-one on it...NOT&nbsp;ME! And she doesn't even play it that often ! ! ! What's with that =8-O!?
<p>I didn't see the =8-0! on my screen,&nbsp;so I don't have any idea. Congrates to your wife, Now show her how it's done. Ha Ha.... Good Luck.</p>
Well done!&nbsp; Have have looked into making targets for home and never quite could find the right materials.&nbsp; I will be using this instructable very shortly and will likely make a PVC base so that it is transportable.<br /> <br /> Where is a good source to find these barrels?
&nbsp;I agree...the &quot;tone pole&quot; in my back yard ain't cuttin' it!!!<br /> <br /> you might try&nbsp;Craig's&nbsp;List for the&nbsp;barrels. &nbsp;Not sure where you are from but i did a search in SF Bay Area and I got 3-4 sources within a 1/2 hour from my house (south bay).<br />
And for ultimate DIY, you could make the chains out of poptabs!<br />
Maybe...but 2 things come to mind: A) 2/0 chain is barely heavy enough to stop a disc in flight (most pro targets use chain twice that weight but at twice that cost!) because that is the sole purpose of the chain and B) can you even buy any beverage that uses poptabs [that can be chained together] in the US today?
I just sent the link for this to the guys on my ultimate frisbee team- I&nbsp;bet one of them will try to make it!!!&nbsp; Thanks for sharing :-)<br />
Just putting it out discgolf is the best sport DiscOvered<br />
theres a bunch of these in a park near my house i allways wondered what they were for<br />

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Bio: A jack of all trades and a master of many; I was the Sr R&D Engineer and Manager of R&D for a very ... More »
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