A Great Build-at-home Disc Golf Target (or a better use for 55-gal drums!)

Welcome to another outstanding Instructable from Kentucky Bum! In this Instructable I will show you how to build a kick-ass disc golf target. I have seen numerous plans (and even some for sale) but I didn’t care for any of them; too hooky, too flimsy, not robust enough, not weather-proof enough or just poorly designed. None of the parts in most any of these plans are ‘cheap’ by any standard, but if you are going to put something up outside, leave it there and expect to survive against the weather and a never-ending assault of hard, plastic discs it has to have some mass to it. If it has mass, it’s gonna cost you (KB axiom #28).

 

A commercial ‘portable’ target that fits in bag cost $120, a commercial semi-permanent one (all metal with a 4-legged base) will cost $175 and a pro version is gonna cost you about $400. Here’s my version of the ultimate home disc golf target. It should cost you about $95 to $100 per target (and take you about 4-man hours to build) but it should last you a long, long time.

 One more note, with the exception of the outer diameter of the ‘basket’ (made from the 55-gallon drum) this target is pretty close to the target specifications shown on the PDGA.com website. For an ‘approved’ target the diameters for the basket should be 24.5” to 27.5”, but most drums are only 23 ½” in diameter, so these will be a bit ‘tight’ for the basket, however it should make you a better ‘golfer’; your practice target should always be a little tougher than a real one anyway.

Here is a picture of my second basket which I put up last weekend. It is made from a barrel that has a bonded on top and bottom. It looks much, much better.

 

Step 1 What you will need

Here’s an exploded drawing of all of the components with dimensions (minus the chains). You may wish to print it out and refer to it while you assemble this target.

Here’s what you’ll need:

·         1 ea plastic 55-gallon drum ($10 to $40 depending on location and patience)

·         3 ea PVC 3” Closet Flanges ($2.50 to $4.50 depending on design; but buy the cheapest); these are the large circular flanges that you bolt toilet seats down to, so you know they are strong.

·         3 ea PVC 3” to 2” step down bushing (~$2.50 ea). These allow you to bond a 2” PVC pipe into a 3” Closet Flange.

·         63” of 2” PVC Schedule 40 pipe (the thick stuff, not the thin stuff); I buy the 10’ pipe (for about $5.50 ea) two at a time; they will make 1 ½ targets each so you will get 3 targets for the $11 worth of pipe.

·         31’ of 2/0 chain Passing Link (usually about $1.14/ft) OR 3 ea 10’ boxes of the same chain (I’ll tell you why I use 30’ and why I don’t use Straight Link chain below)

·         15 ea #60 S-Hooks (~$3 a bag for 6)

·         1 ea 3” diameter hinged binder ring (Office Depot sells these for $1.50 each). This is to gather the chains around the center tube. You can use a large twisty tie or even some bailing wire to do this as well, but it doesn’t look as cool. You can also use a large nylon zip tie, but they don’t last long being exposed to the weather so plan on finding that 3” ring someday.

·         4 ea ¼ - 20 x 1 ½“ Carriage bolts

·         4 ea ¼ - 20 x 2” hex-head bolts

·         8 ea ¼ - 20 nuts

·         8 ea ¼“ flat washers

·         8 ea ¼” lock washers

·         PVC cement (glue)

·         1 ea bag of Redi-mix concrete cement; usually less than $3/bag for one 80# bag which will do two holes or just buy a 40# bag for each hole (a bit more usually).

 

Here’s the tools you’ll need:

• Saws; preferably a chop saw and a table saw. These are to cut the PVC pipe and 55-gallon plastic drum with.
• Drill w/ 2 different sized drill bits: ¼” and 13/64” (a 7/16” can be substituted for the 13/64” if you don’t have one).
• 7/16” wrench (or socket set with that socket). A socket driver for your drill would be best.
• Grinder w/composite blade (to cut chain), bench vice and hammer (to split chain). You can use a reciprocating saw with a bi-metal bit or a hack saw too, but it may take you a while…

Comments

[zigzagchris]

Lucky to have a nice course around your house. I teach discgolf at my camp and its so much fun.

[Kentucky-bum]

Thanks Chris. I played 96 holes this weekend down in Pensacola. They have a lot of courses down south where it seems to have become a way of life!

[zigzagchris]

Lucky, up in new england it is not as well known. Out side my camp iv only been able to find one course nearby and it was not in the best of shape...

[Kentucky-bum]

Have you tried dgcoursereview.com? They seem to know about courses that don't show up on most DG course sites.

[DikkaD]

Some other forums have suggested using a X-mas tree stand to hold it up or an umbrella rack. I think I am going to do mine in a cement tire tho because Im not planning on moving it around to far/much but want to have the option to do so (Its heavier therefore more stable). Thanks KB for keeping me busy!

[Kentucky-bum]

I like your thinking...however, depending one how many locations you plan on 'wheeling' your target around to, it may be cheaper (and easier) just of dig a few holes [in those loactions where you want to put the target] and fill them with cement. Pour the cement around a cut off section of base pipe wrapped in an even layer of strong plastic pacaking tape. That way when the cement hardens and you pull the hole-forming pipe you get a hole with a slight clearence. Then just pick the target out of one hole and stick it in one of the others. Just a suggestion...

[DikkaD]

That would not work for my situation as I am wheeling it across the street to a small park. I am looking in to using some sort of stand, possibly with a way to temporally anchor it to the ground. Anything to get my mid range game better!!

[Kentucky-bum]

One guy said that if you can find a good, used heavy duty light stand (for portable work lights) that you can just slip the PVC tube over the shaft on the base of the stand. That seemed to work fine.

[Westyii]

AWESOME !!! Built this today after work. Took me just about 2 1/2 hours. The Instructions are spot on, had to play around a little with the chain spacing because I forgot to pick up the sewing gadget you mentioned. I took a video from my cell phone and plan to post the final on YouTube. I will be sure to thank you for your creativity. Oh and instead of sinking the pole, I was able to make it a portable basket by slipping the PVC pole over an old work light stand. You can find these pretty cheap at yard sales and salvage or surplus stores, you can see it in the video. It fit perfect, without any modifications! It did raise the height of my basket from 24" to about 27" but that';s ok with me. Thanks again A+ build, now to test it out tomorrow!!!! woo-hoo!

[Captain Molo]

i never saw it, but how long are each strands of chain?

[Kentucky-bum]

I cut them at 24" (2') each. If you buy a 31' length of chain you can cut the 15 chains with out short changing them; you will have @ 6" left over.

[pie popper]

i was wondering what is the diameter of this, and what is the diameter of an official basket

[Kentucky-bum]

I mentioned it somewhere in the text, but the baskets in this 'ible are only 23 1/2" diameter and an official target is 24 1/2" to 26 1/2" wide; these targets are a little bit more difficult to hit. Other than that, they are 'official' in size and construction to the real McCoys.

[brees1525]

As far as chain cutting goes. It looks like you used thicker chain than regulation. You should use 2/0 straight link coil chain. And the 2/0 chain is easy as hell to cut with bolt cutters. I used crappy 20 dollar bolt cutters from Walmart to cut my chain and it was pretty dang easy. Also you should use 2 layers of chain, 12 outside and 6 inside.

[Kentucky-bum]

Well, actually if you go to the pdga.com website you find that there is no 'size' callout to the chain, it mearly says 'metal chain' (and commercially built target use 5/0 chain; much bigger and heavier with better stopping power). As for the number and layers, it depends if it's defined as a Basic, Standard or Championship Target. The Basic has no chain number callout (it is a painted strip on a post); the Standard (which I talk about in my ible) only needs one layer with a minimum of 12 strands of 'metal chain'. You are in reference to a Champion Target which needs two layers of chains. But don't take my word for it...go here for all the gruesome details: http://www.pdga.com/files/documents/PDGATechStandards_121909.pdf

[8lbhammerhead]

has anyone heard of bolt cutters? much quieter,safer and quicker for cutting chains.

[Kentucky-bum]

Yea, that would be another good way to do it for sure, but I don't have a pair (and I'm too cheap to buy a tool like that, especially if I only use it for making targets :-). I've just never needed one. And (if you're not built like Arnold S) a good pair (big enough to cut this chain) will set you back $30-$50...like I said I'm cheap (and lazy :-)!

PS Have you tried to cut 30-45 links of chain non-stop with a bolt cutter? Without a really big one it will flat wear you out. (That's the 'lazy' part of me talkin'...)

[Bard]

 For portability, Ive noticed that portable basket ball hoops have a can that you can add water to weight it down. Would it be possible to attach these targets to something like that to make it portable then just fill it with water when you get it to where your going?

[Kentucky-bum]

The only way I have figured out to make this design 'portable' is to not glue in the base pole and toss the upper part of the target, the base pole and a tire filled with cement (one that has the hole for the 2" PVC pipe formed in it) in the back of a hatchback with enough room for the upper assembly. If you do that, make sure you crimp the S-Hooks around the top link of the chains, as if this lays on its side they may slip off in transit.

[SureShot]

Very cool Instructable! I really like the white and red one. The only thing that could make it even sweeter would be a lite weight, yet sturdy, movable base! How cool would that be! You could set up anywhere. Good job and thanks! Here comes spring and this project is going to the top of my list.

[Kentucky-bum]

I couldn't come up with a good idea for a light weight yet sturdy portable base; that's why I figured cement holes were cheap and easy to put up in multiple locations if you only wanted to build one target. There is a 'portable' target you can buy for $175, and as far as the basket is concerned it's a good target, but the base is just 4 bent wire legs, but no matter how you hit it they are just not very sturdy and the target moves quite a bit on a hard shot. If you want to make this thing portable I recommend you make your cement hole in an old car tire (like how the old teether-ball posts were mounted years ago). It should be steady enough for even the most direct of hits, but you can roll it around the yard easy enough without lifting it :-)

[SureShot]

I just got 3 barrels for 30 bucks delivered! Man I love craigslist!

[Kentucky-bum]

Sweet! $10 each! You can't beat that. If they were filled with something you're gonna need to clean out, I saw an Instructable on how to clean them out. I'm setting up a third hole this weekend so I'll be good for 6-holes soon.

[Marsh]

 Nicely done!

[dougistre]

Have you thought about cementing pipe in the ground so you could move the basket to other locations? Say put 1-2 ft of pipe in the ground and then slide the PVC pipe in the pipe in the ground? Just a thought so you could change your shot.

[Kentucky-bum]

I have at that (and I like your thinking) but I didn't do it this way for several reasons: for starters, I couldn't find a good, commonly available 'inner pipe' whose ID was close enough to the OD of the 2" shed 40 to keep the target straight up n' down, I also didn't relish the idea of an uncovered pipe sticking up from the ground (especially at night, or when there's snow on the ground or when the wife-unit is mowing the lawn:-) and [lastly] I did recommend cementing in the hole so you can pull the target out just as easy but the hole still remains (it serves the same purpose as the pipe you referenced). This way the target is just as movable, but it cost less and a little safer for when the target is not up. As far as changing your shot, one of the cool things about disc golf is that you can shoot at the same target from 4 different directions and [chances are] you will have 4 different shots. Three targets and you have 6 different holes; I'm only going to put up 5 targets to make a 9-hole course :-).

[dougistre]

My bad, I didn't read the entire instructable. After my comment I saw where you had the removable post. As far as the 4 directions, you can have as many holes per basket as you have tee boxes. I really like your instructable and will be following your lead. Good luck with your baskets and your 9 hole course. May the Disc Gods look down on you when you shoot and say WOW what a shot!!!!!!!! Enjoy....

[Kentucky-bum]

No biggie Doug. As far as "WOW", I have to laugh because about a week after I got the first one up my WIFE shot the first hole-in-one on it...NOT ME! And she doesn't even play it that often ! ! ! What's with that =8-O!?

[dougistre]

I didn't see the =8-0! on my screen, so I don't have any idea. Congrates to your wife, Now show her how it's done. Ha Ha.... Good Luck.

[W.A.]

Well done!  Have have looked into making targets for home and never quite could find the right materials.  I will be using this instructable very shortly and will likely make a PVC base so that it is transportable.

Where is a good source to find these barrels?

[Covo]

 I agree...the "tone pole" in my back yard ain't cuttin' it!!!

you might try Craig's List for the barrels.  Not sure where you are from but i did a search in SF Bay Area and I got 3-4 sources within a 1/2 hour from my house (south bay).

[JerryMopar]

And for ultimate DIY, you could make the chains out of poptabs!

[Kentucky-bum]

Maybe...but 2 things come to mind: A) 2/0 chain is barely heavy enough to stop a disc in flight (most pro targets use chain twice that weight but at twice that cost!) because that is the sole purpose of the chain and B) can you even buy any beverage that uses poptabs [that can be chained together] in the US today?

[usLEDsupply]

I just sent the link for this to the guys on my ultimate frisbee team- I bet one of them will try to make it!!!  Thanks for sharing :-)

[zigzagchris]

Just putting it out discgolf is the best sport DiscOvered

[onrust]

Blue barrels Rock!

[sweetsabin81]

going to make one of these! Thanks for the great idea!

[kissiltur]

Having bought one of the designs for a disc golf basket, I think I like your design better! The one I have is pretty authentic in its look, but the basket and top are made of plastic landscape edging which is too shallow really. It took a lot more than four hours to put together, too - lots of cable ties and hose clamps, along with fiddly work with chicken wire.

Here's a picture of the completed basket -

[Kentucky-bum]

I looked at that design before I came up with mine. One of the problems with that design is that disc are not supposed to be allowed to go through the top structure that holds the vertical chains. Normally it is made of rods that are welded together close enough not to allow a disc to go through. So much so that in competition if your disc lands on top of the target it can't go through and it still costs another stroke to take it off and put it in the basket. If I had all that extra chain I would just hang a second set of chains on the inside (which is how a 'professional competition' is spec'd out) instead of using it to hang a rim. Plus, I wanted my design to be just as strong, more weather proof and much lighter to pick up and stow aside if need be.

Thanks for the feedback :-)

[blam72]

Fantastic design and well written instructions!  Years ago I had a portable target that was ok, but the overall quality was poor.  This one looks like it would last a long time.  I might have to add this to my spring project list.  Thanks for sharing.