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I wrote "A guide for Buying LED's on E Bay" almost a year ago. At that time I thought that I might just add a few new things as I came across them and do an update of it now and then. But since then I have found so much new stuff, and finally some of it really good stuff, that I thought I should just write a part 2.

You can read part one here:

https://www.instructables.com/id/A-Guide-for-buying...

Step 1: Some Things Have Been a Disappointment

An number of people, including me, have been a bit disappointed by some of the new LED lights that have shown up on the market. Take for example these screw in bulb replacements. It's a good idea, dump the CF bulbs and use these even more efficient ones. So I bought some to try. They were a major let down. Not because they didn't work, because the do. But they don't produce enough light. And I bought the bigger, higher number of LED's ones. Maybe they could work as night lights. Replacement lights in your regular lamps? NOPE. Maybe I am just spoiled, used to all of those glowing orbs pouring forth lumens. Whatever, I didn't give up hope. Somehow it should work.

Step 2: A Glimmer of Hope

So, the search for LED's that actually produce lots of light was getting to be like a search for the Titanic. I knew they were out there somewhere, but they were elusive and being hard to find. Regular LED's work great for accent lights and things like that but not reading lights, not kitchen lights.

Then I discovered these guys while working on another instructable and had some hope.

These are amazing little lights, they come in a variety of wattage's and colors. The smallest I have seen is 10 watts and the largest is 100 watts. But I haven't looked lately so that range might have increased. These really do produce a lot of light. But they require special drivers, power inverters, and they produce a fair amount of heat which means they need heat sinks. So you can't just plug them in and replace a light bulb. For my project I made a heat sink and the light I got out of the unit was just what I wanted. So, there are LED's that do work, but these take a little effort to adapt. Good thing they are cheap because you can experiment with them and not cry when they burn up..

For as long as the link stays good, here is an example of these lights.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Power-10W-30W-50W-100...

And here is a search for a bunch more of them.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_kw=100W+Warm+Whi...

They do make special heat sink's for these and also lenses and other stuff. I never got into that stuff. It was kind of high priced and I have a lot of heat sinks from other things.

The project that I used one of these on was this one:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Sculpted-by-Fire/

Step 3: Flood Lights Made With LED Units.

Then I ran across these flood lights made with the LED lights mentioned in the previous step. The LED's are mounted and secure on an aluminum back plate that works as a heat sink. The driver is mounted in its own box attached to the main housing. The entire unit is weatherproofed. Pretty good idea but I am not to crazy about the light being concentrated in just a small area. If you need something preassembled then these might be for you.

Step 4: Floodlights With Banks of LED's

Then I found flood lights with banks of LED's. The more I looked into these the more amazed I became. I ordered a few to try and then ordered more and then got some for my friends. I am in love with these lights. They are super bright. I can't find anything wrong with them to complain about.

Look at these specs for a 100 watt unit.

Features:

1. Environmentally friendly and energy-saving

2. easy installation

3. CE Approved & Rohs Compliant

Details: Emitting Color: Cool WhiteLED Color: 6000K-6500K

Input: 110V

Lumen: 8000-9000

Lumens Size: 286*237*65mm (L x W x H)

Waterproof : IP65 to protect against ingress of dust and against standard water jets with a nozzle

Life time: > 50,000 hours

Lens covered with waterproof material

Shell material: Aluminum

Now to give you an idea of their brightness --- A set of 2, 48 inch F40 fluorescent bulbs produces about 2,900 lumens. They use 80 watts of power to do it. One of these 100 watt LED flood lights produces almost 3 times as much light, 9000 lumen and uses only a little more power to do it. 100 watts instead of 80. Just one of these lights can replace THREE double bulb florescents fixtures and use 1/3 the power. Now that is finally impressive. What is even better is they don't flicker, ever. They have no ballast. They come on instantly even at 20 bellow zero. They are water proof and dust proof, and impact proof. They will not be effected (except for the glass) if the fall on the floor. And finally their estimated lifetime is supposed to be 50,000 hours.

24 hours x 365 = 8,760 hours in a year. That come out to be 5.7 years. So figure you use them 12 hours a day they will last for almost 12 years, or possible a lot longer because no one has really been able to test them for that long yet. Now that is a great light.

They come in a variety of sizes and intensities.

The 500 watt one produces 48,000 lumen. Do you have any idea as to how much light that is? That is approximately the light from 17 double bulb fluorescent lights.

And another thing that is really great about them is that they have no harmful gasses or other such stuff in them.

And did I mention they are pretty cheap?

This is a basic search for LED floodlights. There are a lot of different models and a lot of different prices.

The best ones to get, in my opinion, are the ones that have a bank of LED's and no separate power inverter or driver.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_id=401051490554&...

By the way there are also ones with motion sensors, just modify your search for them.

Step 5: On the Inside

I disassembled one of them and was pretty impressed. They have made these with no power supply or driver. The entire light fits on a single board. From what I have been able to figure they actually use the LED's as diode's to change the power to DC. I didn't tear one apart completely to find out. This is from observation. I also think they have hooked up the LED's in series to drop the voltage so no transformer is needed. That is really slick. They save construction materials, reduce current waste, prevent the production of waste heat. and make it all more reliable because of fewer parts. It is a very smart design.

One possibility that I have been thinking of is to remove the glass and bracket and cut down the aluminum body so it has just a dish to it. Then use that light as a panel in light fixture. Future projects!!

If for some reason you take one of these apart and try to put it back together you will need some small spring clamps. The silicone seal will not stay in the groove. It has to be held in place with clamps so you can put the glass on. It is the way that works best. I tried tape, forget it. Use clamps.

Step 6: Add a Cord

Most of these lights come without a cord, just a short wire to connect to a wall or something. But more and more they are showing up with plugs on them. If yours doesn't have a cord it's no big deal. I used old computer power cables. Just wack the end off and solder it to the leads.

For a much longer cord you can directly connect an extension cord to the light. Then it can be used as a work light or trouble light. Remember, it's waterproof. Make your solder job water proof too and you have a light you can use in a pouring rain (or snow) storm. It doesn't get hot so the glass doesn't break if water falls on it. I have several now that have long cords on them so I can use them anywhere, including for things like working on cars and they are essentially weatherproof. The original design of these was to be used as outside lights, so as long as your cord and splice are good there should be no problem.

So bottom line on these lights ---- fantastic. Well worth getting a few.

Step 7: Now Some Fun Lights.

There are a few of the decorative lights that I have tried. I really like the meteor lights. What these have is a rigid strip with LED's on them encased in plastic tubes. The entire unit is waterproof so they are intended to be used outside as well as in. The LED's light up sequentially going from the top to the bottom so it gives the impression of motion. It looks like something falling, hence the term meteor lights. The timers are designed to NOT keep the lights in sink. So each light eventually is doing its own thing out of time with all the others. This gives the appearance of a sort of rain. I bought the long tube ones as I thought it would produce a greater sense of motion. You can combine them together, different colors and lengths. They are fun.

Here is a search link

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_kw=50CM+240LED+8...

Step 8: Strips

Most of the people who have been playing with LED's have tried the long strip rolls. I think those were some of the first out. Well, they have adapted that format and started making these little mini strips. Most of them run on 12 volts and are being made to be used in cars. Or even on cars. The black amber light strip can be used as running lights on a car or a trailer. They also have red ones you can attach to your break lights. They are all waterproof and come with adhesive strips on the backs. They are very flexible and so could be applied almost anywhere. They are really cheap on E Bay or you can buy them all packaged in pretty blister packs for about 4 times the cost at places like Walmart. Something cheap and fun to experiment with.

Step 9: Other Car Lights

There are a lot of new 12 volt interior LED lights that have been developed for cars. For example this small buy bright panel that can be stuck anywhere you need light. You can get them to experiment with now because they are so cheap. This one even comes with multiple adapters so you can plug it into existing light sockets.

Step 10: Rigid Strips

One of the more interesting new things is these rigid aluminum strips. They now have a number of different LED chips that are being used. I believe the original intent of these was as things like under cabinet lights. It is a fun idea but just one strip doesn't put out a lot of light. They are more for accent lighting in those cases. But they can be used creatively in various areas. We have some plans to try these in a few different applications.

Because they were designed as under the counter there are aluminum mounting strips for them. Those are usually way over priced in my opinion. The material used is very thin and just not worth the price they are asking. Then in addition they want you to buy an end cap and a plastic dome to go over the top. All of that costs more than the lights.

I had some problems with these getting damaged in the shipping. Because they are long the post office has the tendency to bend them. That is bad because the LED's come unsoldered because they cannot bend. So far all the companies replaced the damaged ones, but it is a hassle to deal with so you need to be aware of it. Test each one when you get them so you can report any damaged ones.

When you divide these into individual strips, be very careful not to bend them.

One other thing I noticed, if you power up an entire block, 5 strips still linked together, it does put out a lot of light but the aluminum backside gets pretty warm, almost to hot to comfortably hold in your hand.

So, you can't use these for lighting an entire room but they can have some interesting uses in places where you need something rigid.

An idea I had was to cut them into individual units and glue the little strips back to back and hang them from a tree with thin wire that would power them.

Man, I shouldn't keep giving away my ideas to everybody.

Here is a good selection of them for you to look at.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_kw=Super+Bright+...

<p>I didn't see any J78 or J118 LED bulbs that work as replacements for halogens on here. I've found them quite useful; and you can power them straight from a socket (at least you can in Australia 240V/10A).</p>
<p>I noticed that some of the different types say 12V but they don't tell you how many Amps you need to run it, nor tell you the wattage. How did you determine what specs you needed for the power supply, other than 12V?</p>
<p>Easiest way is to use power supply that outputs 12V and high amperage like pc power supply.<br>Connect multimeter in series with leds to read current, multiply that current with voltage and you got wattage. (and use that current rating when you are buying supply)</p><p>Also if you buy strips, usually they are rated watts per meter (something like 10w per meter) so just calculate how long is your strip</p>
About the first corn bulbs... yes they are weak-ish because most sellers put false wattage on them and you got an 11w bulb when you thought it would be 15w or 20w. You can even calculate from the lumen and the energy efficiency rating that the wattage is BS. I tried to complain to ebay about this, but the complaint form doesnt allow you to explain why a product has a false description and if you are not a nerd or engineer you dont see it... Anyway, I still bought some from a trader which made less ridiculous claims and I am happy with them. I ordered the largest size and took care that they used a good smd led. In wikipedia they specify for many smds the power, the lumen, the current and the efficiency... so you can actually calculate yourself how many lumen to expect from a corn bulb and in the end I got what I expected to get. The bulbs in the picuture show quite small rectangular smds. It is not surprising that they dont give much light. The corn bulbs I bought have larger rectangular smds which look similar to some smds I see in other products you mention. <br><br>So in conclusion: the shape of the bulb does not matter as much as buying a product with largeand efficient smds. Many sellers tell exatly how many and which smds they use and both infos are equally important.
<p>Thanks for the enthusiastic 'ible! </p><p>I agree 100% with the comment below from jaszzguitar1963. If you want good LED lighting, ebay is not the place. I am a little ashamed to say, the best home LED lighting I have bought, with the most consistent output and even colour temperature has been from Ikea. The downside is the annoying E.S. to bayonet converters to use them. (you also have to buy, because most U.K. sockets are bayonet!) </p><p>Not always 'affordable Swedish crap' (shameless Futurama quote)</p><p>Not wishing to hijack your post, but <a href="http://www.bigclive.com" rel="nofollow">www.bigclive.com</a> is a chap who does a lot of tear downs and in depth analysis of much Chinese LED lighting and is a great source of 'what not to buy' in a lot of cases, especially the COB &amp; LED flood chips. He has an electricians background, with the tenacity the rest of us usually have to 'see whats inside to destruction' on everything he buys. His YouTube channel is fantastically entertaining.</p><p>Again thanks for the 'ible!</p>
<p>EXCELLENT INFORMATION ! ! Especially all the links to suppliers. I've unfortunately bought some losers that were only good for night lights. Great work on a useful instructable. Thanks</p>
<p>I read one of the comments that mentioned about a rectifier being needed. LEDs are rectifiers themselves, I've put together a design that took that into account and worked very well, there was as 60 cycle flicker because it was only running on half the AC &amp; off the other half. </p><p>I have had good luck buying the lowest priced LEDs I can find at Walmart. You need to buy them based on their output in Lumens. A quick &amp; easy way to get some idea for Watts vs Lumens is that there is about 100 Lumens for every 10W of power used by the old incandescent bulbs. So, if you want a 60W equivalent LED bulb it needs to put out about 600+ Lumes. For LED bulbs it should be around 100 Lumens per Watt, 100 Lumens = 1 W. This is a VERY crude rule of thumb. Here's a good site to see this for real (remember even these numbers are subject to being lower than published): </p><p><a href="http://ledaladdin.com/Energy-Information/lumens-per-watt-comparison.html" rel="nofollow">http://ledaladdin.com/Energy-Information/lumens-pe...</a></p>
<p>Quick note, normally LEDs are less efficient than this because of the circuitry added to drive the LEDs. That has also been one of my goals, to find the most efficient LED bulbs. The lower the Watts used to produce the light the better the efficiency. I've seen LED 60W equivalent bulbs using anything from 9.9W down to 7 Watts. You do NOT want to buy LED bulbs that use the same number of watts to produce the same number of Lumens as a CFL bulb otherwise you're not saving any money buying an LED bulb vs a CFL bulb.</p>
<p>With LED bulbs now selling for as little as a few dollars, even that's not really true anymore. But it's more complicated than that. There can be a variety of other reasons for choosing LED over CFL, including better performance in more directional types of bulbs (efficacy is a better measure than raw efficiency, i.e. useful light reaching the target vs Watts used, an area where ALL fluorescent type bulbs are at a disadvantage for directional lighting); to avoid the danger of broken glass and mercury contamination; better performance in more extreme temperatures (CFLs being slow to get to full brightness) and very short-cycle uses; higher risk of fire from aging CFLs (high voltage arcing). Theoretically much longer life as well, though that depends on the quality of design and manufacturing to some degree.</p>
<p>No arguments from me on any of these points. My movement to LEDs was because of considering all of these points especially the safety issues with small active grandchildren about the house. I have also done measurements with a light meter to see what size bulb will do the job and found at times a 5 - 7 Watt LED bulb could replace a 23W CFL bulb. This is especially true when the light is needed in one basic direction instead of 360 degrees and the particular LED light is better for that than the CFL is.</p>
<p>You need a bridge rectifier, or sets of diodes/rectifiers that bring the flow from both halves of the wave to the device, removing your flicker. This image shows what I mean: <a href="https://www.elprocus.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/66.jpg" rel="nofollow">https://www.elprocus.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/0...</a></p><p>If you really want efficient bulbs, its not hard to make them yourself. If you can etch boards and buy some surface mount LEDs, you can get many high efficiency LEDs that you simply have to solder down. The circuit that runs it can use a simple switched-mode power supply or a &quot;joule thief&quot; style circuit that you can control the flicker rate. If your &quot;joule thief&quot; flickers higher than 200Hz you won't even notice it flickering, but you are still saving some power by having it flicker. </p>
Been there done that too. Both using the bridge rectifier and building my own. I'm using two 1 Watt bulbs I build to sufficiently light up the basement hallway, two watts replaced 120 watts! Not quite as bright but very acceptable for this task.<br>
<p>One danger with this approach is that it leaves your LEDs highly vulnerable to voltage spikes (which are more common than most realize, and usually absorbed by protective devices in modern power supplies). The peak *reverse* voltage on Light Emitting Diodes is usually low compared to bulk rectifiers designed for the purpose, so that can leave little margin for recovery from spikes induced by nearby lightning or inductive kickbacks from large motors, etc. For low cost holiday lights and such, they are not meant to last that long anyway.</p><p>Whether 50/60 Hz or 100/120 Hz (putting a half wave rectifier inline), the flicker shows up in enough situations to make it undesirable to a lot of people as general lighting. A few companies have tried to commercialize the AC driverless approach with series LEDs in one package, with little success in the marketplace.</p>
All of this is true and I added another diode, reverse direction, and a resistor but the original design worked for almost a year with only a small capacitor and the LED as either a night light, with an ultra bright LED, or using a lower level LED as an indicator light. At least two of the four original design indicator lights, to indicate that the outside lights were on, died in less than a year just from turning the light switch on and off. With the added reversed diode and the resistor none of the indicators have yet died now going on three+ years.
<p>Hmm, I was alarmed that you said the flood lights didn't look like they have a rectifier or anything. <br><br>Actually, I'm pretty sure most of them have a rectifier though it could be done without. The board looks like it has some chip that could be a combined full bridge rectifier though I'm going really quick through it. <br><br>Moreover, the basic principle most of these &lt;200mAh supplies use is a &quot;Transformerless power supply&quot; which uses the impedance of a capacitor in series of the AC line to step down the AC voltage then rectify it. It tends to be best for &lt;200mAh supplies and even better yet for &lt;50mAh. At some point pretty quickly it makes more sense to use a proper system. <br><br>I'd like to take a closer look at what pictures you showed, but maybe someone else with better real knowledge can give feedback. I just wasn't really convinced by your presentation, i hope that's OK. </p>
<p>The pictures are of very high quality. You can see the full size original but it takes a few clicks. First click on the pictures so it shows you the scrolling view, or slide show, don't remember how the refer to it. Anyway click on the specific picture again and it should take you to a download page that will allow you to get the original full size picture. I use a DSLR camera for everything and leave it on high quality for all my pictures. I compress them as little as possible. </p><p>The entire light is contained on the aluminum plate. I believe the backside is just aluminum with heat sink compound and screwed onto the housing. None of the circuits are visible. There is a bank of chips but I could not see any markings on them. </p><p>The light is &quot;instant&quot; on. I have another one that has a power driver unit and there is a delay when you turn the power on for that one. A second or 2 hesitation while the driver starts working. These lights are on the instant the power is on. The power lines attach to the board and that is it. So I don't know how they are working, but they do work good. </p>
Perhaps I'm confused as to which lights you said did not have a powersupply--&gt; In step 5 you show the flood lights with a powersupply on board. On the right hand side it looks like some form of fuse+capacitor+rectifier power supply, but I have no idea what is going on the left hand side, and the fact that there is so much going on makes me think I could be wrong about the form of the right hand side.<br><br>
<p>IMHO the best led manufacturer at the moment happens to be CREE. You can always tell if its a CREE by the distinctive shape of the led.</p>
<p>I have found that even in the so called tactical lights, there are great ones and then there is junk. Some companies, (I have not yet started to document which ones do what), cheat on the manufacturing of these LED lights, were others, (so far those from Lowe's &amp; Home Depot have all been great), perform really well as advertised. I suppose it all boils down to &quot;buyer beware&quot; &amp; &quot;you get what you pay for&quot;.</p><p>Of course you can always build your own, there are many internet DIY's to help. Semper Fi</p>
<p>I was just thinking that's one niche of LED product where &quot;you get what you pay for&quot; is NOT necessarily true. Tons of junk ads out there lately for really cheap, low quality &quot;tactical lights&quot; with extremely misleading or dishonest advertising pretending they are &quot;military&quot; grade, which is clearly targeted at people with no real experience of modern LED flashlights. They are actually charging MORE than a good brand name light from the store, for something imported in bulk from China for a tiny fraction of the cost of a decent one at the hardware store. It's predatory marketing that ensures you actually get LESS than what you'd pay for through local channels, yet some will still think it's an improvement on their ancient flashlight.</p>
<p>So I work at Home Depot in the electrical department and sell LED lights every day </p><p>I was expecting a different type of artical out of this with some really useful information. I even read your first artical and did not see the really useful information that everyone need </p><p>The big 5 points when buying a light you need to know are</p><p>1 - How many lumens does it produce. The measure of a lumen is a static value and one lumen is about the same amount of light that a 1 wick plan was candle will produce </p><p>A good reffence is</p><p>350-500 is about 40w incandescent </p><p>500-850 is 60w</p><p>900-1000 is 75w</p><p>1100 to 1500 is 95w flood light</p><p>1600 - 1800 is 100w</p><p>2 - how many hours does the led last for. There are some that will last 50k hours which on an avg use of 3h a day will last you 22 years some are shorter around 30k which is about 13 years </p><p>3 - color. Color is measured in degrees of kelvin 2700 is the same as an incandescent where 5000 is about the same color as the sun light coming into your house when your window blinds are open. Most women like using the 5000k lights in the bathroom. Because their makeup will look the same in the office, outside, or in a store as all of these places have the just about 5000k light. The 5000k light is also called daylight on the package. The 2700k light is called softwhite. I suggest not putting daylight in your bedrooms as that light will wake you up when you are trying to go to bed. </p><p>4 - power use. We want to save money right. Well look at how much power each led uses. Most LEDs use about 10% of what an incandescent uses. Which in return means they produce only 10% of the heat. In the summer time this is great because this means your AC unit will not have to cool down the heat your lights are making.</p><p>5 - base size in the USA we have 3 standard base sizes. But there are many more around the world so when buying your lights on eBay make sure you are getting a the right base size.</p><p>I hopes this helps you all out more then this artical did. </p>
<p>To me right now it appears that LED's are the wild west of lighting. For many many years the standard was the incandescent. 100 watts was 100 watts no matter what brand it was. It was a standard. Now since the white LED was developed everybody wants in on it because who ever comes out on top is going to have a huge business, especially since CF lights are now on the way out. So there is a lot of confusion on the part of consumers because everybody is trying to get them to buy theirs. What is really needed is some kind of rating or grading by an independent organization like Consumers Reports. But at this moment, as far as I know, there isn't anything. This little guide was meant to help with buying LED's on ebay, another wild west thing, and not overall evaluations of everything. The reason I wrote it in the first place was because of how many people asked me for advice after I made an LED light.</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/An-Awesome-LED-PVC-Pipe-Light/">https://www.instructables.com/id/An-Awesome-LED-PVC...</a></p><p>Anyway, I am certain that many other people know a lot more about it than I do. You yourself are free to write your own instructable also. I look foward to reading it.</p>
<p>The reason &quot;100W was 100W&quot; is because incandescent is just electricity running through a long thin loop of tungsten (because resistance increases with length and decreases with surface area). The high resistance makes the tungsten hot and it glows. Since the heated tungsten always creates the same light intensity at a given wattage, there is no difference between brands. </p><p>LEDs on the other hand work in a fundamentally different manner. Not only that, but there are varying degrees of efficiency in LED designs. This leads to different lumen output at different wattage.</p><p>Ultimately, the use of Watts as a measurement for lightbulbs is somewhat stupid in this age. Watts only measure the power usage of the device, not its brightness. Thats why LED, CFL, and incandescent all put out different amounts of light and at different watts. At one point I'm sure people only cared about how much electricity the bulb uses, but now the amount of actual light (lumens) is a far more important metric to make sure you get bright enough lights.</p>
<p>In the sense that white LEDs are a rapidly evolving technology, there is much potential for confusion because what was cutting edge even a year ago is already becoming obsolescent, and design/manufacturing/sales simply can't keep all competitors at the same price/performance/quality - in that sense it is sort of a Wild West. That ALSO makes comparison reviews by organizations such as CR practically useless for specific models of LED bulbs, as they are being upgraded and replaced (and prices slashed) faster than their publishing cycles can possibly keep up to date with. The best they can do is to give general educational guidelines for consumers to do their own comparisons.</p><p>And this is where labeling standards come in, as the FTC in the US has required that all LED bulbs adhere to a standard labeling (since 2012) to allow consumers to do basic comparisons in store - just like a nutrition label.</p>
<p>boeyaahhh</p><p>Exactly</p>
<p>@<a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/PhilKE3FL" rel="nofollow">PhilKE3FL</a>: what you need is a Bridge Rectifier. It take both the positive and negative waveforms and redirects them to positive voltage. Then you don't have the 50% (roughly) off cycle.</p>
<p>Thank you Vyger&amp;everyone for the info.. I love the LED'S, 98% in the house so far (over the year), and 99+% in our vehicles have LED/HID! We live in the mountains, so need to look out for the &quot;critters&quot; and other things. I also replaced our flashlights to LED, RAYZ 1000 lumens for the vehicles,(they have zoom-focus beam, hi-low setting, aircraft aluminum, which helps when you &quot;drop&quot; them! I got those at True Value on sale over a year ago and no problems, (they use 9-AA batteries, is the only issue but the Dollar Tree has 4pk. for a buck, and they last a long time with nightly use)! I went to &quot;Costco&quot;about 6-7mo.'s ago and found this &quot;Duracell&quot; 1300 lumen flashlight that runs on 4-C cell, and has hi-low-strobe settings that I keep in the house,and will buy a couple more to replace in our vehicles, soon because it's lighter,thinner and great for K-9 use when you need both hands! ( Just hope they get back in stock but can look on-line)! This cost $14., the RAYZ was on sale for $20,50% off!!</p>
<p>Simple guide to buying anything on ebay - buy it somewhere else.</p>
<p>Thanks for the very informative article! Have you tested the LED shop lights? They look like regular fluorescent tubes. I don't know if you need a special fixture.</p>
At Sams I got mine $35<br> WOW I'm sold it's so much like sunshine
<p>They are direct replacements here in RSA.</p>
<p>I got the shop light. It is just great, extremely bright, and very little heat. GOt mine at Sams Club. </p>
<p>the best LED light i have ever seen BRIGHT </p><p>GE 60W Equivalent Daylight General Purpose LED Bright Stik light bulb (3-Pack)</p>
<p>yep I sell theses at Home Depot for just under $11</p><p>I also sell a 12 pack for just under $40 </p>
<p>I've gotten a few of the waterproof floods. They came with a short pigtail with stripped wires. Instead of soldering a cord onto them, I opened up the housing, removed the pigtail and threaded a cord through the grommet, I used an old computer cord like you did with a diameter that would fit through the grommet. then you can wirenut or solder inside. This preserves the waterproof ability. </p>
<p>I expected more from this article. Two years ago, there were almost no direct light bulb replacement leds that were bright enough. But there are now. I believe I bought the one in this picture at Ikea.</p>
<p>Like others here, I find buying these on EBay to be a roll of the dice. I've had most of those burn out in record time. But I bought a big batch of Toshiba 7W ones to use in the recessed lighting around the house over 5 years ago. Turkey-Day sale, $5 a piece. All are still going strong.</p>
<p>I buy LED replacement bulbs at Home Depot. The most reliable are probably Philips. Philips has an enormous reputation to protect, and takes product quality very seriously. </p><p>You are NOT saving money (nor the planet) if you buy a fast failing product.</p>
<p>I know this is a DIY site, but I bought 3 of these - all have worked great for years.; https://www.amazon.com/MicroSolar-Digitally-Adjustable-Vertically-Horizontally/dp/B00D1JCW30/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468337906&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=microsolar+126+led they run off of a simple solar panel, and take 5 min to install. All 4 parts can be harvested for a good DIY project: solar panel, battery, controller, and LED lights - so have at it!</p>
<p>This is how the first LED lamps looked, almost 10 years ago. Currently the market is full of high intensity, high quality LEDs, with light as good as that of halogen lamps. (Just don't make the mistake and buy a &quot;cool white&quot; one, unless you want your house to look like a fridge - or a morgue. Same goes for CFLs) </p>
<p>Those multiple chip floodlights have a bridge rectifier and a bunch of driver chips for series-parallel strings, plus it seems a ballast resistor for each string. It would be nice to see a schematic, since you already took it apart. </p>
<p>A word of caution with the flood light type. Some of the Ebay vendors are selling &quot;seconds&quot; where the light output is not as advertised. Some also use undersized transformers that get very hot.</p>
<p>Very true :( There are also a lot of eBay sellers ho are now offering low lumen LED's that are being overdriven to give a higher light output. They will work for a few hours but they soon burn out. For this reason I have stopped buying LED bulbs off eBay. I have found that various DIY outlets here in the UK are now selling GU 10 equivalent bulbs at a much more reasonable price than they used to. I'd rather pay twice what I could pay for them on eBay and have the guarantee of them working properly for the 50,000 hours (or whatever they claim) rather than about 20 hours and then burning out :( Very good instructable though, thank you.</p>
<p>I changed about two years ago to led lights. The 7 watt gave the same light intensity to a 100 watt incandescent I use the &quot;white light&quot; type BUT reliability is as unreliable as can be!! Some just think they are red Indians and gave smoke signals after working only 10 minutes. The flood light types are so far reliable they are 10 watts and give the same light as my old 500watt Quarts halogen lamps. &quot;Made in China&quot;start now to be REALLY BAD quality.especially electronics for consumers. I bought a cassette radio and after 15 swops I had one that worked!!@!! What happened to old fasioned quality control? Computers is another BIG headache I just wonder what is your experience? </p>
<p>I bought some of the &quot;corn cob&quot; type shown in step one. They were very disappointing, all failed within a month. Some by led burnout, some by power supply overheat. Other designs than the ones shown have been (and still are) just fine.</p>
<p>For my first dive into home LED lighting I bought a couple of fluorescent replacements. They were available in several temperatures and I chose 5000 K. I was thrilled with the amount of light they produced and at $7.50 each I will be buying a lot more and slowly do the mods. Mind you that the ballast has to removed from the circuit as the ones I chose run directly on 110 volts. </p>
<p>My whole house LED. All my lights are nice and bright. I even have an awesome motion sensing 30watt Spot in front of my garage.some sellers sell crap. Bottom line is you want Cool White not warm. You need at least 9 watt bulbs for double fixture. 18 watt for garages. They even make a 18 watt to replace the fluorescent tubes that are very bright.</p><p>Conversion about 7 times. So a 9 watt LED will put out nearly the same as a 60 watt bulb. the corn rows are good for fridges. </p>
<p>Another interesting option, if you haven't seen it, is the chip-on-board (COB) lights. I've been tinkering with the 12V strips that are sold as car accent lights. A 17cm COB can contain as many as 80 discrete LEDs, producing a very uniform light without needing a lot of added diffusion. Try searching for &quot;cob led&quot; on eBay. I pull off the outer frame and assembly, and re-solder them into various configurations. Cutting them is tricky because the underlying PCB has a peculiar circuit pattern, but I have been able to do it. They are ridiculously cheap -- $3 - $4 for a pair.</p>
<p>I've been buying LED bulbs on ebay for the last three years. I usually go for the 15watt Bright White for recessed cans, and 15watt cool white for table lamps or other fixtures. Nearly all bulbs in my home have been replaced with LED. Even the halogen track lights were replaced with LED's. It all comes down to reading the descriptions carefully. Look to see the lumen output and the color temperature. (Bright white or cool white)</p><p> In my office at work I have a hydroponic system set up. I have no windows and use LED's for the grow lights. The largest light I have is a 225 LED panel with the output equal to two-100watt bulbs. It only takes 32watts to drive it. I also bought T8 LED tubes to replace the florescent light tubes in some shop lights. The standard T8 uses 35watts per tube while the LED version takes 7watts. Here's a link to the kind of light panel I bought.</p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/141788447996?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/141788447996?_trksid=p2055...</a></p><p>I'd be willing to bet you could put it into a housing if you needed it for a walkway or something other than for growing plants.</p>
<p>I found this chart was handy for selecting adequate replacement bulbs.</p>

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