There is very little leather carving to this project and could be done by a novice.
Step 1: Leather "fly" Swatter
2 pieces of 3/4 ounce carving leather 9 by 7 inches
2 pieces of 3/4 ounce leather 2 by 14 inches
1 piece of window sash trim 12 inches long or any narrow and thin piece of wood
Contact cement I use weldwood
Acrylic Paint various colors
Black antique finish that hs been thinned with Tan Coat
Finish coat - tan coat or finish of choice
Step 2: Leather "Fly" Sweatter
Tracing tool a pen or pencil can be used
Beveler # 203
Edger # 2
Hole punch #3
Sand Paper and /or dremal
paint brushes- small
Bowl with water
Step 3: Leather "Fly" Swatter
Step 4: Leather "Fly" Swatter
Step 5: Leather Fly" Swatter
Step 6: Leather "Fly Swatter
Step 7: Leather "Fly" Swatter
This cement is toxic and should be used in a well ventilated area.
Line up the two pieces as closely as possible and glue down. You want to be fairly accurate because this glue can be difficult to move. Press all areas firmly to obtain good contact. After the glue has set well, using the knife trim all areas that do not match perfectly.
This also a good time to square the bottom of the triangular piece about one inch below the antennae.
Use the #2 edger and go around the entire swatter on both sides. Because of all the tight curves, I chose to hand sand all of the edges. After sanding dampen the edges and using the bone folder smooth the edges.
Now is a good time to punch the holes in the swatter. Without nthe holes the swatter is not functional.
Step 8: Leather "Fly" Swatter
Take one of the 2x14 pieces of leather and using an old brush cover the back side of the leather with the contact cement. Follow the directions on the can for using. Also coat one side of the stick with the glue. Do NOT glue the pointed end of the stick at this time NOTE: THIS GLUE IS TOXIC AND SHOULD BE USED IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA. After the glue feels tacky, place the glued side of the handle down the center of the leather. Repeat the process on the other piece of leather and the other side of the handle.
Take the modeling tool and press firmly right next to the window sash. Take extra care to get firm contact in all areas especially at the rounded edge.
There will be excess leather on the edges. Mark about 1/8 to 3/16ths of an inch from the wooden sash. We used a straight edge then to keep a straight line on the edge. At the rounded edge we free handed the cut. Using the dremal or sand paper, smooth the edges. Dampen the edges and take the bone folder and smooth the edges.
Use the dremal or sand paper and thin down the leather at the pointed end. This will help lessen the thickness of the leather where the handle and swatter come together.
Step 9: Leather "Fly" Swatter
Step 10: Leather "Fly" Swatter
I chose to color my swatter, but it can be left the natural color of the leather or antiqued. I took Fieblings black antique and diluted it about 50/50 with Tan Kote. This makes the antique less dark and it goes on smoother. After coating the entire swatter and handle, I took a damp paper towel and lightly wiped over the entire project. I took black acrylic and painted the head,heart, rear part, eyes and the veins in the wings. I then put forest green on the head, rear, and heart part and blended it in with my finger. To get the sort of iridescent shade I had a product by Golden called Permanent Green Light that I also blended in with my finger. Flys have a lot of light receptors in their eyes and to indicate that, I took toothpicks and dipped them in different colors and dotted them over the eyes. After all paint was dry, I gave it a light coat of Tan Coat to protect the leather.