This is a trick that a lot of people already know, but just in case they didn't I posted this.


Step 1: Gather the Materials

The Needed Materials for This project are:

1.) A scratched CD

2.) White toothpaste (not the gel kind)

3.) Warm water

<p>Truly you are simply scratching everything to the same level rather tha actualy restoring the cd. it does mork wih minor scratches on also various other things inside computer.</p><p>https://www.facebook.com/pages/MMOGA-Coupon-Code/551826621615380</p>
It scratches even more
<p>try glue but don`t wash it off and try to get all the glue in the scratches and don`t leave any over the scratches then let it dry</p>
A lot of these methods work but do not get your CD, DVD, or Game in perfect working condition. At www.majouletcdresurfaceandrepair.com we carry the best resurfacing technology there is to get it back to perfect working order!
Yeah, i tried this it made it worse, before it would work sometimes, but now it wont even read it. thanx alot!<br>
i agree i finished and it was scratched even more
It does work. However, what this person forgot to mention is that it has to be done a certain way. You have to do straight line from the center of the disc to the edge. You also have to use a soft, non-lint cloth (an plain white cotton tee works fine). Also, it works best if the scratches are surface scratches on the plastic side. If the scratches are too deep or on the side of the label, you're just wasting toothpaste.
does this work for computer games
no wonder that does not work
Repairing CDs and DVDs:<br><br>Many interesting posts some of which (the failures) point up a basic problem and that is a lack of specificity as to the &quot;grit&quot; size(s) required. Brasso and/or Crest, tooth paste vs. &quot;gels&quot; are different ways of -- implicitly -- indicating grit sizes. What we collectively need is some guidance as to what grits to use to achieve what results. With numbers, one could go to an industrial supply store and buy the appropriate powders (probably a range of three to five would do fine). I've been sharpening chisels and plane blades for years using a buffing wheel (easily available at Home Despot) and &quot;rouge&quot; sticks (once available at Sears but I haven't bought any new in decades), and with the correct selection of grits and in the correct order, a mirror finish that one can shave with can easily and quickly be put on a chisel or plane blade. I'm not suggesting buffing wheels for CDs and DVDs (although it might actually work fine if done with GREAT CARE), but the principle is the same; we need some numbers, and some suppliers. (Cleaning, the proper buffing motions, etc. all seem to be handled nicely by the existing posts. BTW, I've managed to bring DVDs back long enough to copy using simple old nose grease; Vaseline and WD-40 sound like constructive alternatives that I personally haven't tried yet.)
For one thing, buy an external hard drive, second get an iso maker and turn all of your expensive cd's into iso files and put them on the external hard drive. this will back your discs up so if they ever get ruined, you can just make a new one so if it's a game, make sure you keep your cd key, now for scratches, all you need is super glue, i'm in the process of making a cd resurfacer that uses extremely runny super glue to put a new surface on. i'm going to make an instructable on it, but sadly i made it then thought of instructables. and to be honest if you use this, it's a one time thing, this process can make the disc more fragile and it would break while in use. that is why you actually need to add to the surface, not take away the surface with toothpaste, and the white kind is surposed to have soda powder in it.
While it is ALL called toothpaste, this "white kind" really IS "paste" vs the green or blue "gel" kind you mention. It's not "ALL gel" despite other comments to the contrary.
I propose Three terms:<br><br>Toothpaste: The white kind.<br><br>Toothgel: The gelly kind.<br><br>Toothpowder: The old fashioned kind.
toothpaste is OK but it must be a very fine type I tried a number of things using old disk and the best result so far is a kind of toothpaste its used for stain removing there are 2 types on the market THAT DO WORK one is Pearldrops and the other is Denivit the best one is Denivit I use a disk cleaner machine but instead of the rubbish they give to clean with I use Denivit anti stain its on sale here in the UK pearldrops too ,,.Icleaned about 6 disk so far all work make sure you wash of the paste before putting in your player / games console dry with a micro cloth or something fine. good luck
Erm... This didn't work.... I wasted a whole tube of toothpaste trying this. Next I'm gonna try Brasso. Supposedly it works wonders with scratched discs.
Thank You! Thank you! Thank you Linux_Galore!!! &nbsp;&nbsp; You are a freaking genius!<br /> I had to reformat and re-install Windows XP Pro. Set-up could not read the files from my disc. I&nbsp;was bummed!&nbsp; I did the toothpast thing and brasso thing with no success. I read your post about the WD 40. &nbsp;It did stop on me several times but I just kept hitting enter and one time I&nbsp;had to use the WD40 a second time. But it worked like a charm. I&nbsp;am now finishing my OS installation with XP Pro.&nbsp; You are my hero!!!<br />
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That's weird...I used this trick once with the "gel" kind and then it worked. Next time I tried it I used the white type and the CD got fcked
depends, your disc might have just been dirty, not scratched. or maybe it was dirty in the scratches... or something. just the whole point of the white toothpaste is that you're rubbing the plastic down, "sanding" because it has mini abrasives that do that for your teeth. but the gel kind doesn't have the exact same stuff. something.
rubbing in a circular motion will NOT 'ruin the coding', the actual data is stored on the CD in the layer just below the label.
true that.<br/><br/>the reason why you dont rub in a circular motion, rather, is because it's much easier for a disc reader to read through a single notch of unreadable data, than a continuous, circular stream of unreadable data.<br/><br/>toothpaste doesnt work too well. only looks clean when its still wet, but once it's dry, its back to step one, even if there are less scratches.<br/><br/>the real trick is brasso, and metal polishes.<br/><sup>hint hint</sup><br/>
It didn't work.
really you are just scratching everything to the same level rather tha actualy resurfacing the cd. it does mork wih minor scratches on many different things.
If all you have is mediocre scratching, get a cd-buffer and use it. Also try cleaning your CD-drive for increased sensitivity. This is a method well-discussed for last-minute data-recovery.<br/><br/>If you respect CD-R's as they are, precision optical media, and handle/store them as such, then you will never have such damage to your media surface.<br/><br/>Pretend it's the '80's, and you are the only one to hold this technology. Do you ignore the sensitivity of it, or do you try to keep it as mint as possible? I *still* have CD's that not only work, but are some of the earliest varieties, since they first came out. They work just fine if you handle properly.<br/>
Unfortunatly, proper handling might not be enough. I've had CD players scratch discs. The tray-less players in cars are particularly bad.
Yeah, I admit you can't really get around that damage except not to use them. Most decent manufacturers will actually have felt "lands" to keep this from happening though. PC drives are the worst though, because not every disc is built well enough not to distort at speeds of 32x or so. Another reason why I never burn any disc at 52x, even though my burner is perfectly capable of it. I just find alot of people who abuse them in amazing new ways, and then complain about how poorly-made they were.
Just like every time you play a tape, you risk it getting eaten. My PC drive isn't capable of speeds that high. I did still have a disc shatter though. Inside the computer.
I've had disc failures inside my drive as well, which is another reason I don't use that speed anymore. Were it not for my ability to repair the drive, I would have been out at least two drives by now. The best way to prevent such an occurrence is to inspect optical discs for cracks that originate at the hub first, especially if the disc was used in tray-less drives such as a sony playstation (the original) or similar, where the disc locked into the hub through sprung ball-bearings. Burning copies of discs at the lowest speed not only assures the quality of the burning process, but also the risk of failure during the process. I still have a copy of Gran Turismo for the PSX that is risky to play at 2x speed, I keep it only for proof-of-license. Meanwhile I have burned a copy of the media for archival purposes.
dogg these steps dont work come up with another one and then we will see
Hey I'm run n gun. I grew out of my foolish name and was annoyed by it so I made a new one... I got your comment, and I am sure it does, unless this method only works on certain CD types, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't. Hope this helps!<br/><br/>P.s - Very off topic but if you wanna see something cool go here, it's how to turn your pc into a mac without changing anything fancy, only the way it looks, not performance.<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.engadget.com/2004/06/09/turn-your-pc-into-a-mac/">http://www.engadget.com/2004/06/09/turn-your-pc-into-a-mac/</a><br/>
Why do people have to act like a know it all? Comments like these are just unnecessary. I mean, seriously.
dose it work on ps2 games.
<strong>WOW Thank you my son's 360 distroyed 3 games .. So I used Crest and not only is it good for cavities but good at fighting a XBOX360 munching machine.. I just save a bunch thank you thank you!@</strong>PS MS is replacing the box but would offer no help on the games.<br/> Also tried youyr trick on a couple of music CDs that I thought were bad but just hadn't tossed worked on them as well.. This should go on the National News or something HEE HEE<br/>
Resurface... Polishing.... Semantics -- the effect is the same ;)<br/><br/>I think there's another instructable on here that actually does scratch the surface versus polishing like this...<br/><br/><hr/>All that said... I use Brasso ;) Works wonders and has saved my ass - just do so in a well ventilated area, that stuff will make you stupid :P<br/>
why does brasso make you stupid?ps please reply me
Prolonged exposure to certain solvents isn't a great thing. Some effects are temporary, others a bit long lasting :/
umm didnt work. at all.
make sure you dont do a dumb move like my friend did... instead of using his finger he used his toothbrush... lmao! he had to get a new PS2 game after that because he scratched it up so much HAHAHA
Ah I've used this technique also on watches to get little scratches off the screen
I still think that the world should work on making bigger, cheaper flash drives.
When you say rub up and down, is it up and down toward the centre (radially) or up and down tangentially?
another alternative to toothpaste is turtlewax. i used it for deep scratches on my little brothers xbox 360 games. in fact i tried the toothpaste method and it did not work at all with the deep scratches. -bs
This technique also works on PMP (Portable Media Players) screens, like the soft plastic of a creative zen, or the slightly harder plastic of ipods.
Since data recovery is important, I will mention stuff outside the scope of this thread. The self life of a CD is up to a 100 years if it is stamped at the factory. CD-r's are written using die and have a shelve life as low as 2 years even if never handled. Before using a mechanical approach for a bad CD / DVD, use a software (for example ISO Buster) . Next wipe the CD with a damp cloth that is perfectly new, one little dirt particle will scratch it. I have had luck with trying different CD readers also. (There are some other step one can throw in) The polishing shown in this thread is a last resort, and will not make things worse if one fails.

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