Detailed instructions (including video) can be found over at finewoodworking.com, so I won't go through it step by step. I'm just going to point out the more clever stuff.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/18985/still-dont-have-a-workbench-this-one-is-easy
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Mine is similar with 2 doubled heavier legs at one front corner to support a 5" metal vice,and a doubled leg in the center/front where I do most of my heavy pounding
The nice part is when the top gets too messed up, you can just add a thin layer of hardboard to the top for a whole new surface.
If you buy your top as a 4'x8' sheet, you can cut a slice off the 8"side for a shelf underneath.
I was reading it over and I noticed all of a sudden that I knew you. Lol. can't say that's ever happend to me before.
One suggestion would be to move the vice from the front of the bench to the end of the bench. That way you have the entire bench to work with for putting in bench dogs if you are going to work with longer panels. Most of these vices support having a taller 'front' block that in combination with a flush back block allows you to use the entire work bench as your vice, rather than just the 7" throw that the vice has (minus the thickness of your vice blocks.)
That said, I need to get on the ball with making my own bench. Probably more for general projects including metalwork, but from the looks of this, it's a great starting point.
Thanks for the incentive.
1st. I don't think MDF makes a sufficiently durable top. Allen added a sacrificial layer of 1/4" hardboard, and I think that'd make a huge difference.
2nd. Allen used three layers of MDF, resulting in a top that was 2-1/2 inches thick, as opposed to Christiana's 1-1/2". That extra thickness means you can pound on it anywhere, instead of only over the legs.
3rd. When Allen places the shoulder vise flush with the front of the bench, rather than extending out 1/2". That makes it possible to use the vise to clamp material across the front of the bench.
Tell me, what do you mean by mounting the vise flush instead of 1/2" extended? I haven't bought my vise yet and I'm wondering why one would decide to extend by 1/2".
Thanks!
In the latter, the inner face of the vise is in the same plane as the edge of the top and the front of the legs. This means that you can use the vise to clamp long pieces across the front of the bench, and have the pieces supported across their whole length:
If you were to do this with the Groz vise as mounted above, there would be a 1/2" gap between the board and the edge of the bench - making it much less stable.
In Allen's book, he inset the vise into the bench by just enough that the face of the vise would be flush with the edge. Christiana left that out, to simplify construction. In my mind, the advantages gained are worth the extra complexity.
No. Some woodworker's vises are designed to use the edge of the top as their inner jaw, others - like the Groz - have a metal inner jaw.
Allen's book used the Groz, and notched the top so that its inner jaw would fit flush.
You can see my old bench in some of the photos. I wanted to re-use as much of it as possible.
It's interesting you recommend using three layers of MDF w/ a layer of hardboard. I ended up using a scrap piece of MDF and scrap of hardboard between the vise and the underside of the top to get it positioned vertically. So your recommended set up would be perfect for my vise.
I thought about flush mounting the vise too, but I was in a hurry. There's always the next iteration. I'm already thinking of re-doing the top.
I agree with you is a great easy to make workbench!