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Step 21: Receiver Test

In this step, we will program the radio transmitter so that the zero-positions of the sticks actually output a zero signal, and the sticks issue commands in the expected directions.

Welcome to the longest step of this entire SK450 Dead Cat quadcopter tutorial. Before we get started, let’s take a second to review the work we’ve done so far: we modified the KK2.1 Mixer Editor settings so that the flight controller knows the positions of the quadcopter’s motors, we modified the PI Roll and Pitch settings so that the quadcopter responds appropriately to our control input, and last, we modified the self-level settings to optimize the quadcopter’s ability to stay level in the air. In this step, we will calibrate our radio transmitter and the flight controller’s receiver settings.

Let’s get started with a tiny bit of theory - don’t worry, this step is much, much simpler than some of the earlier ones in this chapter. There are four different directional controls on our radio transmitter, which you should be familiar with already:  throttle, roll, pitch, and yaw. Each of these directional controls has a range of values that depend on the positions of the two sticks on the radio transmitter. This is how we communicate with the quadcopter.

Our goal here is to make sure that when we move the transmitter sticks, the KK2.1 receives commands in the correct directions. In other words, to use an example, when we move the pitch stick up, we want the KK2.1 to detect an upward pitch control, not downward. Chances are though that without setting up the transmitter, at least one of the control inputs will be inverted. To correct this, we will use the Receiver Test tool in the KK2.1 menu.


Alright, let's get started. First, turn on your transmitter and, in the KK2.1 menu, select Receiver Test. Try moving the sticks on your transmitter. You should see the values in the Receiver Test screen change as you move the sticks. In the sections below, we will observe these values as we move the sticks and make changes to the transmitter settings as necessary to achieve the correct directions for the controls.

One last thing before we get started. There are two sets of buttons on the transmitter that we will use to adjust the transmitter’s settings. First, if you take a look at your transmitter, you will notice a row of six switches below the sticks. These switches are used to reverse the direction of each channel. When we move our sticks, there is a chance that the KK2.1 will read some of our inputs as going in the opposite direction. For example, we might move the rudder stick left, but the KK2.1 will read a right rudder input. In this case we would flip the rudder switch to the opposite position. The second set of switches, of which there are four total, are located below and to the sides of the sticks. We will use these switches to trim the values output by the transmitter so that the minimum values are reached when the sticks are in their minimal positions.

Adjusting Throttle Trim and Direction

So, start by moving the throttle stick to the bottom position, in other words, move the left stick to the bottom. When you do this, the throttle value in the KK2.1 Receiver Test will change. We will adjust the throttle stick direction and trim value based on the throttle values displayed in the Receiver Test tool.

First, if the number goes to some high value around or greater than one-hundred, and displays the word Full, flip the throttle channel switch (thro), which should should change the input to a small number. Otherwise, if, when you move the throttle stick down, the value is already small or zero, leave the switch in its original position.

Second, if the throttle value in KK2.1 is greater than zero with the stick at the bottom, click the small switch to the right of the throttle stick down to decrease the value to zero. Otherwise, if the value is zero, click the switch to the right of the throttle stick up until you see a value of one, and then click the switch down once to set the value to zero. The point here is to make sure that, when the throttle stick is at the bottom, the KK2.1 reads a value of exactly zero. You will also see the word Idle displayed next to the value.

Adjusting the Yaw (Rudder) Trim and Direction

We will use the same procedure for setting the trim value and direction of the yaw stick that we used for the throttle stick. So, move the yaw stick (left stick) to the far left and observe the readings in the Receiver Test tool.

First, if you see a negative number, or the word Right, flip the rudder (rudd) switch to change the direction of the output. This should cause the value in the Receiver Test change to some positive number. Keep in mind that for yaw controls, moving the stick left should yield a positive value in the Receiver Test tool, and moving the stick right should yield a negative reading. This is a little counterintuitive and can be confusing. The reason for this convention is because a right yaw input causes the quadcopter to rotate clockwise, and clockwise rotation is usually denoted by a positive value.

Second we will adjust the trim value of the yaw input. If you take your thumb completely off the left stick, it should snap to the middle, where we want a rudder value of zero. If, in the Receiver Test screen, you see a positive value, click the yaw trim button, located below the left stick, to the right until you achieve a reading of zero. Otherwise, if the reading displayed is negative, click the trim button to the left until the reading reaches zero.

Adjusting the Pitch (Elevator) Trim and Direction

Now that you are getting the hang of adjusting trim and direction settings, let’s move on to the elevator stick, which adjusts the pitch of the quadcopter. Before we begin, like with the yaw values, the pitch values can be a bit confusing. Pushing the stick forward gives a negative reading and pulling the stick back gives a positive value.

So start by moving the elevator stick all the way down. In the Receiver Test tool, you should see a positive value and the word Back. If you see a negative value, flip the elevator (elev) switch.

Like we did with the rudder stick, now let the elevator stick go and it will snap to the middle. If you see a positive value in the Receiver Test tool, click the elevator trim button, located to the left of the stick, to the down until you get a value of zero. Otherwise, if you see a negative value, click the trim button up to get a value of zero.

Adjust the Roll (Aileron) Trim and Direction

Now for the last control direction. The roll stick should yield a positive value to the right, and display the word Right, and a negative value to the left, along with the word Left. If you get the opposite values when you move the aileron stick, flip the aileron (aile) direction switch.

Then, release the stick and adjust the trim button, located below the stick, to achieve a value of zero in the Receiver Test tool when the stick is centered.
can i use 5000mah 2s turnigy battery
<p>Do you have to revert the 3 pin connections for the q brain back to how they were in order to use the BESC programming card? I don't want to do this each time because I want to change the song selection for the q brain. Any easier way to do this?</p>
Here is the connectionHereh
Here is the connectionHereh
Pls I am using a flight board KK2.1 and. Hk 16A V2 6 channels receiver. I used 2 servo cables to link them, (which am not sure is correct), but when I try to arm my motors, I get a set of steady beeps. What could be the reason for that?
<p>Great instructable. Followed a lot of this when I made my Dead Cat Defibrillator. Only thing that doesn't seem to be right are the mixer settings. For motor 3 (right rear) and 4 (left rear) they seem to be the wrong way round. I based mine on the YouTube video from HobbyKing which has 3 as 100, 71, -71, 100 and 4 as 100, -71, -71, -100. Hope this helps anyone else that get some strange flight characteristics with the settings given here.</p>
<p>Thanks for the recipe, flies really well now. But there are multiple errors in the mixer editor settings you have listed.</p><p>Importantly, the signs for the rudder numbers for motor 3 and 4 are mixed up! Motor 1 and 3 should have positive numbers for rudder, motor 2 and 4 should have negative numbers. Same applies for aileron.</p><p>I have marked in <strong>Bold </strong>the places when my number have the <u>opposite sign</u> of your numbers. My numbers are also slightly different just because i measured the angles differently from my kk unit. <br>39 comes from being sin(23 degrees) which is the angle i measured to the front arms (see picture).<br>92 = sin(90-39) =&gt; 0.92 =&gt; 92<br>73 = sin(47)<br>68 = sin(90-47)</p><p>Motor 1:<br>Throttle: 100<br>Aileron: -39 <br>Elevator: 92<br>Rudder: 70</p><p>Motor 2:<br>Throttle: 100<br>Aileron: 39 <br>Elevator: 92<br>Rudder: -70</p><p>Motor 3:<br>Throttle: 81<br><strong>Aileron: 73</strong><br>Elevator: -68<br><strong>Rudder: 100</strong></p><p>Motor 4:<br>Throttle: 81<br><strong>Aileron: -73</strong><br>Elevator: -68<br><strong>Rudder: -100</strong></p>
<p>What is the length of your flight???</p>
How durable is this model compared to other copters? Do you recommend flying this if it's my first copter, or would you suggest a more crash friendly one?
<p>Ok, I'm a little confused. Your pic of the tape on the controler is clearly mode 1 but your link to the tx/rx combo is mode 2. Which one are you running?</p>
<p>This is the very best build report I have read! </p>
<p>Thanks for taking time to put together such a comprehensive build guide. Much appreciated.</p><p>I can buy all these parts in the UK. But, I have a DX6 AR7000 and an AR6000. Will these work OK with the setup given?</p>
<p>I want to build this but I just can't find a vendor who ships those parts to Germany. Can anybody help me?</p>
<p>i found when i inputed these settings my motor 1 and 2 went much <br>more forward than sideways, i found the Aileron and Elevator settings <br>for motors 1 and 2 were slightly switched around (could be a new version <br> of the software or maybe just an oversight when typing up this amazing <br>build? lol)<br><br>I found these work best for motors 1 and 2 on my KK2.1 <br></p><p><strong>Motor 1 Mixer Editor Settings</strong> </p><ul><li> Throttle: 95 <li> Aileron: -94 <li> Elevator: 34 <li> Rudder: 78 <li> Offset: 0 <li> Type: ESC <li> Rate: High</ul><p><strong>Motor 2 Mixer Editor Settings</strong> </p><blockquote> <br> <br><ul><li> Throttle: 95 <br><li> Aileron: 94 <li> Elevator: 34 <li> Rudder: -78 <li> Offset: 0 <li> Type: ESC <li> Rate: High</ul></blockquote><p>Correct me if im wrong but that gave me the correct orientation of the motors</p>
<p>i found this section to be a bit confusing at first until i relized i didnt have enough 3pin connectors...in the parts list it only says 1 CM male to male connector so thats what i bought...maybe should be revised to say 3 or 4 lol</p>
<p>1-10CM male to male**</p>
<p>I am currently in the middle of this build. But it seems my controls are all backwards. For example left is right and throttle up is throttle down ect. Anybody else having this problem??</p>
<p>Just reverse the affected channels on your transmitter</p>
<p>Very nice! I was looking for something like his. A question: Is there place to install a gimbal underneath?</p><p>Thanks</p>
Great instructable! Thank you so much, I followed all your instructions and my dead cat flew first time perfect!!! Cheers.
<p>Sounds dumb but i can't get it right!<br>I Have a Graupner MX-12, with the throttle on the right side.</p><p>In Your Instructable, it's on the left side, so how do I have to swap the connectors, so the KK Board also recognizes the right stick as a throttle?</p>
<p>Why is finding downloads for the latest KK2.1 board firmware such an elusive thing? Google always takes me to that gigantic thread on RC Groups where finding any links is like finding a needle in a haystack. Where the heck does one find KK2.1 firmware updates?</p>
very hard
<p>Hi, useful article but have one comment regarding prop balancing - don't you have the prop balancer assembled wrong? The conical elements should normally have the tips of the cones facing each other, they are designed so that they self centre on the hole in the propeller. Also there is a second step to balancing which you haven't mentioned here - to balance the hub (often referred to as vertical balancing). Doesn't make as much different as the horizontal balance but worth doing. Enjoy your flying, R</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>Congratulations for this great Instructable. It was very useful and complete. I built my Dead Cat last week.</p><p>I was able to buy all parts from HobbyKing (USA and Europe Warehouse). I bound it to my Spektrum DX6i with a Spektrum AR610 receiver.</p><p>I found two missing things when building it:</p><p>- in step 6, &quot;Mount motors&quot;, I did not get the needed screws because they do not come with the motors. I had to look for suitable screw all over my house (and I finally used some screws from a PC). For the record, motor's package says &quot;Bolt thread: M3*4mm&quot;</p><p>- in step 9, &quot;Mount Flight Controller&quot;, I did no get the white plastic parts you are using to mount the KK board. But I bought a KK 2.1.5 since the KK 2.0 is not sold anymore. I had to used some nuts instead (3 nuts for each foot).</p><p>When I tried to fly it for the first time it completely flipped over (from right to left). I broke a prop :( I finally discovered that I had to first load a motor layout in the KK 2.1.5 menu. I chose &quot;X Quadcopter&quot; and then applied settings for the motors (step 18, mixer editors) (I used slightly different settings I found in a Youtube video).</p><p>I also add some LEDs to it, and some FPV gear, but I did not yet tried to fly it in FPV only.</p><p>FPV parts are:</p><p>- Camera: <a href="http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/-RunCam-600TVL-Plastic-Housing-FPV-Camera-%252d-DE.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/-RunCam...</a></p><p>- Video Tx/Rx: <a href="http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/BOSCAM-Mini-8CH-5.8G-400mW-Wireless-FPV-Transmitter-Receiver-Kit-%252d-DE.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/BOSCAM-...</a></p><p>- Goggle: <a href="http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__53706__Quanum_DIY_%3Cspan%20style=" rel="nofollow">http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__53706__Quan...</a></p><p>- Antennas: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__49827__ImmersionRC_5_8GHz_Circular_Polarized_SpiroNet_Antenna_V2_RP_SMA_.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__49827__...</a></p><p>My Quadcopter now flies quite well! I'm looking forward to fly it more but it's kind of freezing for the moment... :)</p><p>I attached a picture of it.</p><p>Thank you,</p><p>Alex</p>
<p>Hi there, I have a deadcat 450, I also just bought a Qbrain but cannot seem to get this darn thing working, please could you be more specific about the Cabling!</p>
Hi. What settings do you have in your radiocontroler??
<p>I's using an OrangeRx DSM2 reciever without numbers. How would I wire it correctly?</p>
<p>Hello I bought Qbrain and Naza.</p><p>can you post a picture to see x </p><p>how did the connection between fate and Qbrai 4x25A naza m-lite? , Thank you</p>
<p>My motors did not come with the motor mounting screws as depicted in this picture. I purchased the &quot;Turnigy Multistar 2213-980Kv 14Pole Multi-Rotor Outrunner&quot; as listed in the parts list but there are no phillips screws with them. The motors on hobby king also dont show these screws. looking at the local hobby stores and hardware stores trying to find some that will wrk but I have not had any luck.</p>
<p>Realy great instructable, but I think that yu need to charge battery at LiPo balance mode, and not at normal charge mode. In LiPo balance mode, charger will balance each of the cell separately, so is more safe, and better for battery</p><p>:)</p>
<p>Hi great instructable, how can I connect the Q-brain to the KK2.1 voltage sensor to make use of the low voltage alarm? I cant seem to figure that out. Any help is appriciated. </p>
<p>So I am in the process of scratch-building my first quadcopter, and I am trying to use a Turnigy programming card to program my Q-Brain 4-in-1 ESC. I plug the Q-Brain in to the programming hub, and that into the programming card, and then plug in the battery to an XT60 connector I soldered onto the ESC, but the programming card doesn't light up or respond. What am I doing wrong, and what could a possible solution be?</p>
<p>Never mind, I finished the build completely! Great instructable, although I noticed that some of the mixer settings were flipped, possibly because of the recent firmware update.</p>
<p>Great instructable and now I definitely want a quadcopter for my own! One question, instead of buying a SK450 Dead Cat frame for the quadcopter could I lasercut my own such as this: (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:113497/#files)? My idea was that it would be easier to repair broken arms and what not if I could create my own frame. I plan on using the exact same parts as the list provided but change the frame. Would this theoretically work?</p>
<p>Thank you for this great instructable ! Ordered all the parts from HK ! Looking forward for the delivery ! </p>
I voted. :)
I made my first flights and crashes today (I never flew before). Yes, I swapped motors 3 &amp; 4. I need to recalibrate the motors again; since the do not start at the same time. Thanks for the instructions.
<p>Nice Work DUDE... Voted </p>
<p>A stunning instructable! Very well presented in depth. Thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>Assuming they are compatible; can anyone tell me how to connect the Q-Brain to a DJI Naza Lite (http://www.dji.com/product/naza-m-lite). Thanks!</p>
<p>Nice work! I just finish my deadcat last week;) Just a question, are you sure that the mixer editor settings are correct? I think that you switch the third and fourth motors! Let me know!</p>
<p>please please upload video step by step please :( . so that it is more easy to understand and fix it </p>
<p>This was a great instructable, infact im building it myself, the one thing that annoyed me though, as this was my first time building a quadcopter, i didnt have the parts that werent included in the parts list, which made me pay for more shipping because i needed more parts, These parts were the threadlock, the XT60 connectors and the prop balancer, For others that are/were in the same situation as me, you should add those to the parts list, will make thier life much simplier, as im stuck waiting for threadlock and a balancer now...</p>
<p>Boy what an interesting project ! Now where does that neighbour stay that skin dip on Saturday? </p>
<p>I'm going to build this but was wondering what kind of camera did you use??</p>
<p>I use a Contour ROAM Model 1600.</p>
<p>thank you for the info and quick response! :)</p>
<p>Awwww, thought this was going to be a taxidermy quadcopter made from a dead cat. Good of you to show the crashes, most people pretend they have none.. got a nice vid myself, lots of bits of desimated copter flying past the camera.</p>
<p>Nice Build and well written instructable. I plan on building a defib. deadcat soon. I found youtube videos from HobbyKing setting up the KK2.1 for the sk450 DeadCat frame. There are several other videos they do on the KK boards as well. It is ALL about the firmware on the board (I would NOT recommend you fly stock firmware) and the set-up, calibration and tuning of the board. Nice thing about the KK board is the screen and user interface. There are tons of them out there and just as many videos and guides for set-up and tuning.</p><p>Cheers! :) and Many Happy Flights</p>

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