Step 2Make the Stencil
Just etch the board using the same method you used for the controller and display PCB, and lacquer it to protect the front of the display.
In order to reduce light breakthrough to adjacent words, I used 30mm baffels made from spare PCB stock. These were held in place using hot melt glue.
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Have a look at my latest clock http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Wordclock-Grew-Up/ or www.dougswordclock.com
I wonder if the above mentioned method can be adapted to another language?
kind regards,
rogel
This method most certainly can be used. I have helped a person in France with a french version. The words are just words that light up. We need to make a new matrix.
email me a set of words from one to twelve, o'clock, quarter, half, past, to and some examples of how they are used, and I will have a look at extending it for you. My email is doug@doughq.com
Doug
i'm going to make a copy if you don't mind.
do the baffles still have the copper layer on them ? because i can see a bit of light-bleeding through. have you thought of using a double sided pcb for the face, that way you could solder the baffles to the back of the face and probabbly reduce all light-bleeding.
i could only find a jpg version for the face-mask. do you have a photoshop or illustrator or any other editable format of this mask that you could supply ? great idea !! and i love the copper face-plate. very steampunk
cheers, tom
In the future, I will put the copper on the inside, preventing any bleedthrough. your idea of using double sided PCB has merit!
The only editable version of the facemask is in the EasyPCB format.
I would actually recommend downloading the PDF of the stencil (that will give you an accurate size sample), and making your own in whatever program you choose.
Step 5 now has the PDF of the Stencil - Thanks for pointing that out :-)