Here's the ultimate DIY Ski Bike!!! I wanted it to function well, be super strong, easy to fabricate, not too heavy, and very cheap to make.
Here's what you'll need:
- an old BMX Bike (MTB's work too)
- 2x4 stud (x1)
- 8" Hinges (x2)
- 2" Lag Bolts (x12)
- 2" Drywall Screws (x12)
- 3/8" BMX wheel axles (x3) (keep all nuts)
- Flatland BMX Pegs (x2)
- a Pair of old Skis
- Spray paint
Step 1: Prepare bike
Remove the wheels, cranks and chain. Remove the axles from the front and rear wheel. Keep all your nuts. Keep the bottom bracket cups installed in the frame as a super strong seat for your pegs.
Step 2: Flatland Pegs
Use a set of large flatland style alloy pegs and a extra 3/8" BMX axle to create the standing platform.
Step 3: Install Pegs
The pegs seat perfectly into bottom bracket cups. This setup virtually bomb-proof.
Step 4: Setup the Hinges
Remove the hinge pin from the hinges by drilling out the spots where the pin is punched. Keep the plastic spacers in place (if any). The pins can vary slightly in diameter from brand to brand. I got mine at lowes and the bmx axles were a snug fit but required no modification. You may need to drill or ream or pry them out slightly to fit 3/8". Use the nuts and washers from the donor wheels to fill in the gaps. You don't want to pinch or spread your bike too much in order to make a snug fit. I backed off the inner most nuts a 1/4 turn away from the edge of the hinge so it swings freely on the axle.
Step 5: Create the platforms
Cut 2x4s a couple inches longer than you'll need. Use a miter joint where the 2x4's come together so your lag bolts bite into both studs. Drill your holes and bolt them to the hinges with 2" lag bolts. The holes closest to the axle on each side will be left empty since they would collide with bolts on the opposing side. On my second set I sunk 4" lag bolts in the upper holes and 2" in the lower holes for added strength.
Step 6: Cut proper angle and length
Cut the excess wood at the angle and height you want. I made the front strut a little longer than the rest. The axles are taped for painting. These will fit any 3/8" axle bike and could be mounted to most any ski or snowboard.
Step 7: Ready for skis
Painting the platforms will seal them against moisture.
Step 8: Cut and mark skis
I cut the front ski 24", and the rear 34". Line your skis up a little forward of center on your struts. You want the nose of the rear ski lined up under the bottom bracket and a few inches clear of the front ski. Mark the inner and outer line where the struts contact your skis.
Step 9: Drill holes
Drill your holes along the inner mark so the screws get deep into the meat of the studs since they are sitting at an angle (imagine the 2x4 strut leaning back to the left on top of the ski in this pic). Offset the middle hole towards the center 1/2" from the holes on the ends to prevent splitting.
Step 10: Coutnersink holes
You need a smooth surface on the bottom so countersink your holes. I used a 3/4" bit.
Step 11: Like butter
2" drywall screws go deep into the stud and make a strong platform. A good waxing will fill in all the crevasses and make a smooth surface.
Step 12: Now you have a ski bike!
This setup cost around $30 for all the materials (hinges, thrift store skis, bolts, screws, and new grips). You'll also need a free junk bike. Busted wheels are fine, all you'll need are the axles and nuts.