Step 7: Other Thoughts

The most noticeable area of improvement is the joints. They have to be tightened fairly tight to stay put, and this puts a lot of strain on the relatively soft wood. The commercial stands have ribbed disks that go between the two sides to lock the joints in place, and therefore use less pressure. If you can make something similar, or find something cheap, let me know.

Update: view Supafly's comment below for the "leg-nail" mod. Supposedly it works great, and it seems the best/easiest way to assure no slipping. Thanks supafly! If you can't find his comment below, then here's a basic description: Drill holes in the bottom leg starting near the joint and going out along the leg. When you assemble the leg and open the joint, you can put a nail in one of the holes and it'll stop the upper leg from sinking. You can move the nail from one hole to another to accommodate different angles, and you can remove the nail to allow the whole thing to collapse.

The length of the legs will be determined by your stomach size, arm length, and how comfortable you want to be. I make it as short as will fit over my gut. If you wanted to get creative, you could cut out the portion of the lip/tray that touches your stomach, as long as there is enough lip on either side to hold the laptop from sliding off. A small indent like this may give you an inch or so (till the laptop is resting on your stomach), which may make a difference in comfort.

If you make one, please post up and let us know how long it took, how much it cost, and what it's like to use it. If you have suggestions, post them up. Good luck!
<p>A rubber washer made from an inner tube would work instead of a checker and be thinner.</p>
I followed the directions for this project pretty closely and everything went pretty well except I could not find the hardware needed to lock the legs into place so that the desk could hold up the weight of the laptop. I went to a number of hardware stores but could not find any sort of mechanism to make that design work. <br> <br>I finally came up with a variation to the design using two flag pole holders and two wooden dowels. This design is actually very straight forward. You need to use slightly wider boards on the outside. Wide enough so that the flag pole holders can mount. I drilled a hole in the dowels so the tightening knob and screw that comes with the flag pole holder would go all the way through dowel so the dowel could not twist in the holder. <br> <br>I am quite happy with the design. The flag pole holder can be fully adjusted and locks into place for a wide number of angles.
Wow, neat! Do the flag holders tighten w/ friction, or do they have any kind of detents / ridges to hold it in place? Friction works well enough for me, but if these have any kind of ridges in the joint itself that would make it so much better.
The flag holder do have detents with a wing nut to tighten the joint. They are cast pot metal and not particularly light weight, but this is a good alternate use.
It took me awhile, with the staining and cutting, but I like the way it came out. I stole the idea to add independent support bars across the back to help with the weight. Came out pretty good! Thanks for the idea! <br> <br>
Looks nice, I like the supports. I'm assuming you have some kind of bolt sticking in to rest in those notches?
I love this it gave me a great idea to make another thing to invent
Hi there,<br> <br> thanks for all your great Ideas... here is my Try :) Its really comfty, y Ellbows can rest on the wooden staves on both side and I can screw it in every position, even the underground is not even, so i just screw the both sides differently :)<br> <br> For the tricky part I used simple Spanner (dont know the word in english) but you all know this :) its cheap and very stable :)<br> <br> I used for the middle panel pine wood from the alps, nice smell, and for the side some hard wood, walnut... The ornaments are freely designed and they giv good circulation for the machine :) thanks for all your inspirations !<br> <br> good luck Geggo<br>
Looks great, and neat angle-lock! I still have mine just simply tightened - it works surprisingly well as long as I tighten it once in a while. I like the ventilation holes, looks great.
Thanks for this, I just finished building a very, very rough version. Sort of a prototype. I made mine a little bit too tall for my liking and couldn't get a hold of the adjustable screws this time but next one will be better. Thanks again!
I always thought there had to be a better way.I use my laptop in bed a lot, as it's more comfortable for me. However, it's hard to balance the laptop on my chest and type with my hands sideways, so I needed a laptop stand.<br>http://refurbished-computers.ca/<br>
Hello, I intrigued with project laptop stand and I was have made this thing according to your way show in this project. However, I have problem on this project product. Where are I can get T-nut and knob with screw in Kelantan, Malaysia? Reason I was went some stores hardware, but I not find this thing. If there is, help state name and shop address hardware that nearest with my place.
I wish I would have realized there were 3 and a half pages of comments before I planned out and built my version. There are some good ideas mentioned. Oh well, I thought I'd share what I made though.<br> <br> Originally I was using the same design as the original. I thought I could put a rubber washer in between the pieces of wood to keep the legs from slipping but that was a total fail. So I decided to add supporting legs like another commenter did. I wanted to be able to adjust it though so I added 3 notches.<br> <br> I was able to find the knobs at Ace Hardware. They had a few bins that had a variety of different knobs. I still like using the knobs even though I have the support legs because it keeps the whole thing from shifting.<br> <br> All in all I&nbsp;think&nbsp;it turned out pretty well but if I did it again I might try the checker idea. So here it is:<br> <br> <br>
Looks nice! Is that laminated wood? Also, good to know ace hardware has those knobs, they're hard to find.<br><br>Strangely enough, I've been using the unrefined v1, just tightening the knobs to make it stay. It's worked fine, and I use this just about every single day. But if I were doing it over, I'd use plywood + the same support system you used.
Thanks! The wood is poplar. I recently took a woodworking class and I had this left over. I'm planning on putting a clear polyurethane coat on it when I get a chance, I like the green streaks poplar has and I'm hoping that will preserve it.<br><br>I started using it last night and I love it. Thanks for the idea!
it looks great. where did you buy knob with attached screw/bolts and and socket anchors? thanks
I got them at a local hardware store, and have never seen any since. I just randomly found another source at mcmastercarr.com. Search for part &quot;5993K59&quot;. That should get you a 2 1/2&quot; threaded stud 4-arm knob. Not a round one like I have, but an armed-knob is better anyway. I'm not sure if you need 2 1/2 inches... just enough to go through both pieces of the leg. Probably 1 1/2 or 2 would be fine.<br><br>Finally!
I tried something similar butthen you get addicted to bed. My back started to be so stiff that i have to abandon it alltogether. I just switched now to a more portable one (Standivarius aero), especially as travelling is an almost daily requirement. Now work in bad is no more than 1/2h at once.
Yeah, working in bed is a tricky thing - the ergonomics are all off. It's fine for web browsing, but I find that programming, writing, or any serious work requires good posture at a desk. Good posture in bed is important even for the little stuff. Make sure your arms don't have to reach too much forward (or it'll feel like you're holding them up in the air too long). Prop up your back slightly, and your head/neck a little more to angle forward. Don't angle your head too much forward... move the laptop closer to you. Make sure the laptop is as close to your stomach as possible w/o touching, it helps. So getting the position right helps. But like you said - serious work in bed should be limited due to the strain it'll put on you. I still have a dream of the bed workstation... I imagine a nice high-res head-mounted display (which they don't really make yet for less than 10's of thousands of dollars... I'd settle for 1080p or so). Then a split keyboard so you can have one at each side, near your hips. Arms out straight resting on the bed. Then an integrated pointing device, like a trackball or IBM pointing stick. That way you could be at a completely resting position and work on the computer. Some day.... (I think the HD HUD could be replaced by an HD projector pointed towards the ceiling, but I'm yet to be convinced that a screen directly overhead would be in the best viewing angle. The screen could definitely be huge though).
&nbsp;great instructables laptop &nbsp;stand!!!
Can you make a photo with this checkers? My english is not the best, i can't understand what are this magic checkers with teeth :D<br />
Sorry berci, I&nbsp;haven't made this with checkers so I&nbsp;don't have any pics to share.&nbsp; Browse the comments here - a lot of people have posted their pics of what they've done. &nbsp;Maybe someone else will post pics of theirs.<br />
Great Instructable, I need to make one of these but I think I have a better idea for the joints, <strong>faucet rosettes</strong>. The ones I found at Home Hardware were about 1 1/2&quot; across and 3/8&quot; deep. They are found in the plumbing section, they go under the sink on the hot/cold water lines to the faucet. They are light metal and have bigger, deeper grooves than checkers. I didn't pick them up so I don't know if they correspond to 30, 45, and 90 degree angles.<br /> <br /> I was thinking of cutting them half as deep and cut a couple big notches (like a castle top) then use a hole saw to cut a groove for it to sit in the wood. Or dremel it. Then epoxy it in place. One or both would be sitting above the wood line, the other could be flush.<br /> <br /> David<br />
Pics would be great, these sound like they might be really useful.<br />
Here are the <strong>Faucet Rosettes</strong> I found at the Home Hardware Building Centre here in Southeastern Ontario, Canada. They are labeled Home Plumber (brand) and have stock number 3231-425. On the back it says &quot;Imported for/importe pour Home Hardware Stores Limited, St. Jacobs, Ontario N0B 2N0&quot; which suggests that they are made in the US. I paid $2.69 CDN for a set of two (even though this set said $2.59), the other Home Hardware charges $2.99. I tried most of the hardware locations here; Canadian Tire, Home Depot, Lowes, Rona, Bardon, even Wal-Mart. Only Home Depot had something close, but they were taller, narrower and had wavy teeth not zig-zag ones. Another set made by Master Plumber did not have very good teeth.<br /> <br /> They are 1 11/16 inches wide and 3/8 inch high. They just fit on a '2 inch' piece of stock. The teeth are 1/8 inch high and 1/4 inch wide. The bottom is 1 1/4 inch wide with a 7/8 inch hole. They appear to&nbsp; be made of steel, very strong but light. They mesh together very well but I might use a thin rubber washer between them to keep them from slipping. They have 12 teeth and 12 valleys so they would work for 0/30/60/90 degree angles.<br /> <br /> David<br /> <br />
Oh yeah, the hardware for the joint. I was thinking of using a Carriage Bolt because the head is domed and it has a square shoulder that would lock into the wood.* Then I'd use a washer and a threaded knob on the other side to pull the joint together tight.<br /> <br /> David<br /> <br /> *I had found a torque washer online that looks like the socket/anchor but a square hole, no threads and the barbs. Couldn't find it locally.<br />
Sorry, I meant that the torque washers have barbs, but no threads.<br />
I believe &quot;Ontario&quot; suggests it was built in Canada.. just to put that out there...<br />
A big tip of the hat to jumpfroggy for inspiring so much creation and imitation! &nbsp;I don't have access to a lot of tools or a Home Depot that will cut wood for me. &nbsp;I found a way to create a modge podge of parts from different things that just needs to be bolted together. &nbsp;The legs (Two foot shelving brackets) are bolted to two shelf supports an and then attached with random hardware to a closet shelf that was intended to hang. &nbsp;It' not collapsible or adjustable but it's very sturdy. &nbsp;I intend to get some washers and wing nuts to make the process of assembling and disassembling more convenient. &nbsp;There were two pieces included with the hanging shelf that work as a great cooling stand for flat surfaces (also pictured). &nbsp;They just require a bit of bending. &nbsp;total it cost me around 27. &nbsp;More than I intended but I'm still happy.
Your last step mentions a "leg-nail" mod by a commentor named Supafly, but I can't find the comment. Has it been deleted somehow? Could somebody fill me in? Thanks.
It is <a class="entryListTitle" href="../../../member/superfly289/" rel="nofollow" style="line-height: 16.0px;padding-right: 4.0px;padding-left: 0.0px;">superfly289</a>scroll down until you see some images.<br />
I can't find it either now, maybe I misspelled his name. Basically, drill a few holes in the bottom leg near the joint, starting closest to the joint and going out along the leg. Then when you want to lock it, open the leg and put the nail in the hole closest to the angle you want. This way the upper leg is prevented from closing due to the nail in the way, and you're not as dependent on the friction of the tightened bolt to keep the platform from sinking. Also, since you drill many holes you can change the angle just by moving the nail from one hole to another.
Another simple solution for the slipping legs is this circular fixing system. You just make holes in circle on both legs and you just have to insert a nail or some screw into the holes. But please consider to use a hard wood. Pine won&acute;t work, as it won&acute;t stick in the desired position. I have tested it with pine and it did not work properly. oak might be a much better solution. I used for my desktop stand the solution used by superfly<br />
Ok guys heres my version.. there was a lot of debate about how to hold the position, knurled knobs, checkers, etc. While a method like this is nice because it allows for infinite adjustment, I decided that most likely there would only be need for 2 or 3 positions. I don't know much about ergonomics so I just guessed at 45,30, and 15 degrees. So far its worked great, I use the 45 degree position for typing and the 30 for playing games. I've found the 15 degree position pretty useless and if I build more will probably eliminate it. Everything is counter sunk and pocketed so that it folds flat. The basket is from an old freezer and is perfect because it already had the "lips" on it. The stands are made from aluminum bar that I found at the hardware store. Questions are welcome. Thanks jumpfroggy for the 'ible and inspiration!
Could you post closeup pics of where the support meets the bottom leg? I'm curious, as this looks like a good solution. And man, that thing is *wide*. Looks nice though. It's funny, when you're making something like this you always think you'll need a lot of adjustability... then when you start using it, you realize you only need 1 or 2 positions. It's more about being able to collapse the thing for storage later, which I don't even do anymore... I just hang it off the end of the bed.
Here you go..I did a little sketch up, it's not to scale but it gives you a decent idea about what's going on. For those of you that want more adjustability you can make the channel as long as and with as many stop notches as you like! And YES it is a little wide but keep in mind that the laptop in the picture is just a baby 13 incher! I use the extra space for a mouse and pad, it's awesome for gaming. Good to hear from you jumpfroggy!
Hi <a class="entryListTitle" href="../../../member/goldenskyz/" rel="nofollow" style="padding-right: 4.0px;padding-left: 4.0px;">goldenskyz,<br /> What program doyou use to do this sketches?<br /> Thanks and regards<br /> <br /> </a>
Awesome, looks great. Good ideas with the notches. I might do this if I can route the notches.
You know, I was thinkin'.. You mentioned that you didn't have need for it to fold flat, you could skip the channel altogether and put the stop notches on TOP of the rail. No routing, just drilling, a lot easier and basically the same thing!
So true! I'm thinking now that making notches on the top surface of the bottom leg is the way to go. As long as you don't accidentally bump the tray up (loosening the braces), you should be fine. I think I'll do this and see how well it works, as it seems like the simplest/most effective method yet.<br/><br/>Even without the channel, the stand could probably fold *mostly* flat, which is moot since I never really move it anyway. We'll see.<br/>
Fantastic instructions!&nbsp; I&nbsp;made mine a bit wider so I&nbsp;could put my mouse on there and added some fold-able support legs.&nbsp; The added support legs means it can't lay as flat, but it's still able to be flat enough to fit under my bed when not in use.&nbsp; I&nbsp;still need to add a hole or two for ventillation and I&nbsp;want to add a few more notches on the lower legs so I&nbsp;can put it at different angles.&nbsp; My local hardware store didn't have the knob type screws that were big enough so I&nbsp;used more of a thumb type.&nbsp; Thanks again!&nbsp; <br />
Jason, looks great!&nbsp; The notches are a great idea.&nbsp; Mine is still going strong with just a very tight friction screw, but if I&nbsp;were remaking it I'd got for something more like this. &nbsp;Plus, those hand-knobs I have are basically unfindable... no one else has found them anywhere.<br /> <br /> I'd love to see it in action. &nbsp;How do you keep the mouse from falling off?<br />
If you look in the third picture there's a nail sticking out so the cord goes around that and plugs in on the other side of the laptop.&nbsp; It sort of just hangs there when I'm not using it.<br />
BANK! The checkers are a bomber idea. I was just thinking about making a stand for bed when I ran across your instructable. Should be posting my variation on this stand shortly.
Wow!! Everyone’s versions are awesome. Here is mine. used Peg board for top - has holes already allover board and one piece 10 foot fir - legs 4 x 1.5' , 2 x 2' cross pieces. Top piece is 2' x 1'. Used metal brackets already cut and with holes cost about $1.25 each. Regular nuts, bolts & washers 1/4' for hardware. Thanks for all the inspiration.. now i can really become the lazy sloth that i am and never get outta bed!!
太美妙了。可惜我什么工具也没有,以后我会闹一个玩玩的! So wonderful!What a pity.I have no any tools,I'll make it in the future!
You might be able to solve over heaing in most notebooks just by using peg board instead of solid press board. That way you would have holes all over the back of the notebook and you would not have to worry about positioning like if you would if you cut a hole. I do like the wire shelf idea though, may try that instead. As far as the friction joints go, two discs of cork from the auto parts store should work very well. You also might be surprised how well a couple of discs of felt will hold.
where does the air flow pass through for heat build up?
It depends on your laptop, as each has different air vents for heat radiation/convection. On my laptop, the vents are on the sides & back. Since there are no sides or back (just a flat bottom) to this laptop stand, this laptop stand design works perfectly for my laptop. If your laptop is designed this way, there is no "heat buildup" unless a fan is broken or something is stuck in one of the air vents. Some laptops, however, have a single air-intake port on the bottom. If this is blocked, then the laptop has a hard time cooling itself. This is horrible design, since most of the time a laptop is used it will be on a flat hard surface. It is even worse when it's used on a soft surface like a bed (since then the port is completely obstructed and the heating issue is worse). If you have a poorly designed laptop like this, I'd recommend figuring out where the air intake/exhaust ports are and cutting some holes for those areas. A few of the other builders have posted pics of this type of modification, I'd look to those for examples. I'm not trying to be condescending about your hardware; I know you didn't design your laptop, so any deficiencies are not your fault. They are the fault of bad laptop designers/manufacturers (of which there seem to be a whole lot). I have both a Core 2 Duo 2.4ghz laptop and an old G3 powerbook, neither has any trouble cooling itself. However, many laptops I've worked on or fixed do have cooling issues, and it's amazing that manufacturers are fine creating such garbage. The fact that there's such a huge marking for "laptop cooling pads" points to one thing; badly designed hardware. Sorry for my mini-rant, I'm off of my soapbox now.
yeah...I have a Sony FZ490 and it's a great laptop but the heat build up is awful. I took one mod... took a CPU fan (the 12 volt obviously wouldn't work) and wired it to a USB cable and I have the lap top on two 4x10 blocks of wood on each side of the laptope with the cpu fan blowing up towards the hard drive which is underneath the vicinity of the touchpad... I'm going to be building the PVC stand which I think is cool as heck. I paid enough money for this laptop and should have gotten an a different one for less money. This sony is dual core, 2G mem ..... I appreciate what you had to say :-) The fan blows out the left side but the vents are underneath...

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