In this instructable I will show you how to make a fully 3D printable GlaDOS from Portal (1 and 2), that is also a lamp and can be converted into a robotic arm (how much cooler does it get), With a superled in the eye (this much cooler).

Go watch it immediately:

This was first intended to be an instructable on how to make a fully 3d printable GlaDOS robotic arm lamp that can also move. Due to some shortage in time and other project that I need to continue on (my SLS printer) I will share everything I have thus far that works properly. When I finally figure out how to make this thing moving without all the electronics heating up to 100°C, you will be the first to know.

Because this was first intended to be a fully functioning robot arm, some of the instructions include wiring. If you do not plan to use this as a moving arm, I have also designed parts to replace the servo's and moving parts. With this, you can skip most of the wiring and only use it as a lamp.

To make this lamp you will need a printer that is comfortable printing with a lot of support material. The design isn't supportless and is quite hard to print. I used a UP! 3D printer, that is more than capable enough printing with support material. All of the parts are designed around the maximum build sizes of the UP!.

Also you will need some skills electronics and be comfortable using power from the mains. Also you will need a LOT of time. Printing alone will set you back at least 40 hours.

A special thanks to Almteq in the Netherlands for letting me borrow first one UP!, and letting me borrow 2(!) UP!s when one couldn't get the job done fast enough with just one. Without you guys, this project wouldn't have been possible.

Okay, here's the deal. You seem to want to see this thing moving, and I seem to want to win an UP! printer of my own. This is what we are going to do. You help me win an UP! in the contest, and I will do everything in my power to make this thing move as soon as possible. The deadline for the contest is too soon for me to do it before the contest, so make me win, and I will make this thing move.

Step 1: Updates and Q&A


Lets start by thanking everyone for helping me win the UP! contest. I won... can you believe it. Without your support this would not have been possible.

As promised I have released all of the source files. You can find them on my thingiverse page. If someone wants the schematics and the firmware, I can upload them, but the program is really simple. It measures the potmeters, remaps the values to servo angles and transmits those angles to the servo's.

Now for the sad part. I have completed this project. I will no longer be working on this project. This is where you guys come in. My electronics and programming skills are limited. I have heard you guys talk of some amazing ideas, and I really want to see some of them working. So go modify the parts to your needs, print and make this GlaDOS even more awesome than it already is. Amaze me.

Dragonator out.

end of edit

After all of the interest, I have devoted a page of my instructable for personal updates, comments and answers for some questions.

First things first, Where you can and can't expect me. I am not on reddit, tumblr, twitter, google plus or any other social media. Places where you will find me is here (instructables), thingiverse (also as dragonator) and on youtube (as ytecinventions). Right now, I will not use any other medium to publish or comment on.

Expect some parts to be slightly modified. I am continuing to find small problems is some parts (mainly the base). I have already replaced the base drive train (mostly gears) over four times before I got to a solution that could handle the raw strength.

For everyone that is speculating whatever is wrong with the electronics. I already knew what the problem was way before I posted this. I tried containing everything in the base. There only was a 12V line in the base. I used a 7805 to create the 5V from the 12V. This part dissipates every volt that is above 5V, all the way up to 1A. I slightly underestimated the current that some servo's could draw. The 7805 is the part that heats up to dangerous temperatures in no time at all. For any of you concerned that there are some serious problems, there are not. I am already busy working with (not just on) the solution.

Those of you that wanted all of the electronics to fit in the base, I've got some good news and some bad news. Bad news, I'm postponing any attempts indefinitely. Good news is, I've got a much better solution. By placing the electronics outside of the base, I created a lot more room for them.

Thing I will and won't do:
- I will make this thing move;
- I will make this thing controllable by the controller that you have seen in the final thoughts;
- I might do a tracking system at some point, purely out of curiosity, but such things take tons of time, and I do not have any idea yet how to do it. The idea interests me, but doing it seems like a TON of work;
- I will NOT make her talk, The last thing I want her to do is make fat jokes.

Q & A

Why isn't there a video?
There is a video in the page above dummy, Go watch it right now.

Is there going to be a video if you do not win?
See the question above.

Is this thing for sale?
No it isn't. Also I can't be commissioned to make one, I am way too busy as it is. I might be persuaded to make and sell garage kits if I win, but for that I will need an UP! of my own.

Can I (and with that I mean you guys) post this on shapeways?
Yes. As long as you credit to the original source, you can. I was trying to convert these to a size that would be reasonable for shapeways, but I don't have the time for it.

Will you post the source files?
It's the end of the UP! contest and the closure of the lamps and lighting contest, so there is no reason to hold on to these files any longer. I have put them on my thingiverse page. Happy tinkering.

Why don't you just use a fan to cool the electronics?
Two reasons, One: There simply isn't enough room in the base. Two: Electronics heating up that dramatically is usually a sign of things being wrong.

(PS. to everyone that showed me that glados look like a bound, upside down woman... Thanks for that image, I now have a bound woman on my ceiling. Just great)
<p>from where i can get that 3D printer which you have used???</p>
I was wondering if anyone had a ballpark figure of how much the build is gonna cost? I haven't seen it anywhere and I'm really interested in this build
<p>filament ~ 70&euro; up to 150&euro;, depending on which brand you use. electronics, naaah, max, 30&euro; if you get it from china</p>
<p>Would this work in a makerbot?</p>
<p>Found Arduino, is it possible that you could go a bit further into depth on how the controller is set up?</p>
Where i vote for this?
<p>This instructable was posted Mar 20, 2013 so I think voying has long past.</p>
I'm really sorry, it looks really nice. Did you optimized it (the temperature)? I want to copy it and try to integrate with some distance sensors.
<p>dude ,your rich and don't even realize it! this is so needed for senor home care,and that it can hook to existing fixtures wall or ceiling, and the agility of the camera mount gimble ,beets any stationary mount system that it rotates from center and peeks around objects via your gimble controls ,patent this quick ,before it stolen by some one and patent before you ! even search and rescue ,robots need this peeking function, military, swat ,recovery agents ect... but senor in home care ,allows unsupervised home care, operator monitors multiparty video feeds, and alerts police ect of a downed client EMS family ,ability to unlock doors when help arrives ect.</p><p>ps add a motion activate would make this even better </p><p>ps. love to hear your out come in the future ?</p>
<p>I need this in my house....</p>
<p>It would be nice to see a video of how it moves. Really nice work!</p>
<p>This is a thing of beauty</p>
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<p>Hi, Great project! That page no longer exits on thingiverse. Has it moved?</p>
<p>Epic! One of the coolest projects I've ever seen :)</p>
<p>It looks like a Circular Saw! I think that would be a great Theft Deterrent! Part of a Security System?</p>
*sigh* I really wish I had the time and money to make this... Guess I'll just bookmark the page and come back to it when I do have the time and money.
<p>What do I hook all the servos to?</p>
<p>Very nice, looks great!</p>
<p>After more than one month of work, i finally finish it ! verry awesome modeling Op :) i've done it with some lights modification and i've use PLA material, the bargraph change depending on the temperature.</p><p>I'm here if you have any question</p>
<p>I also have an UP!, what settings do you recommend to remove support material?</p>
<p>Depends on the material. For ABS, anything will work. For PLA, the only advise I can give is either use UP! software 1.15 or 2.11. Anything in between sucks with PLA and support. 2.11 seems to be better, but I have to do more prints to confirm. </p>
<p>Hello. Give me please: circuit board and Arduino sketch.</p>
<p>The project was posted without either because I never got a decent design myself. I used a breadboard circuit to make mine move. It is nothing more than this example with 4 motors:</p><p><a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Knob" rel="nofollow">https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Knob</a></p>
<p>you can picture this board ?? or circuit ??</p>
<p>That board was never used in the actual lamp again. It was the old electronics, but it was binned because it didn't work. The only reason you still see it here is because it has a LED driver on it, which I used to power the led in the eye.</p><p>There is nothing I can offer here, sorry.</p>
<p>Thank you very much :)</p>
<p>Thanks a lot, working much better now, plan on finishing the project.</p>
Can sell a few on Ebay or Not? :D
<p>The thingiverse page is down? Could you upload a zip file?</p>
<p>AMAZING BUILD!! </p><p>Is it in any way possible to build this whole thing without the electronics, servos and whatnot? <br>I would love to make something like this but I lack the skill to create such an intricate electronic system and if I tried (judging by your comments about various things overheating) I would probably burn my house down in the process of trying to do so. <br>So is it possible to print all the parts and put it together as a non-moving GlaDos model? I understand that this would remove half the amazingness of it but this is probably the only way I could create such a master piece. Also if it is possible, are there any parts that would not require printing? <br>Also I could probably manage the lights part at the top of it, but not any of the stuff that requires more than knowledge on the complete basics of electronics.</p>
<p>There is a non-moving GLaDOS. Download the files normally and select the &quot;Stationary&quot; GLaDOS.</p>
<p>so cool but I dont have a 3d printer or the time</p>
<p>Just a suggestion for the electronics, don't use a 7805. Use a LM323, which is 5V @ 3A. That should work. Even better, use a switching replacement for a LM323, like this one from ebay. That way, you are not dissipating that extra &gt;7W. <br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM323K-Replacement-Switching-Regulator-5V-3A-/251561044235</p>
<p>I read that you used PLA... I can't seem to get the support material and raft off, how did you manage this?</p>
please please please please make a garage kit!
<p>That is the proposed plan not foreseeing any issues though </p>
<p>Are you going to hook it to a micro <br>controller board and have it follow people around and react to them like <br> that guy who made the interactive desk lamp ?</p>
<p>https://www.facebook.com/groups/ApertureSciences/ Where we make Science! #PortalFans GlaDoS Luvs you. </p>
<p>Hi! Where can i take an electronic glados controller scheme? I have started this project, but i cant resume without this one. Give me a link please if it posible :)</p>
Give me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!<br>
I wired up the led bulbs with the driver and when I tested it they are blinking.Any ideas?
<p>Check the packaging for the LEDs and the documentation for the driver you are using. </p><p>Some LEDs are designed to blink when they have power (like Christmas lights), and similarly the driver you may be using could be configured to blink. </p><p>If neither of those is your problem, I would check the current and voltage requirements of your LED and the current capacity of your driver; it may be your driver is struggling and the blinking is tied to a capacitor charge/discharge as it tried to keep up. </p>
<p>Waste of time!!!! Where are the files!!!?!?! Thingiverse says: &quot;<strong>This Thing is currently under moderation because the source files have been removed.&quot;</strong></p>
<p>While I do not mind comments like this in general, I would at least like it if someone would spent more than 2.5 seconds on a problem before commenting. The Thingiverse tells you the files have been RELOCATED, including the link. The comments below also contain the link:</p><p><a href="http://ytec3d.com/downloads" rel="nofollow">http://ytec3d.com/downloads</a></p><p>I will admit that I should probably add the link to the instructables page too, but that is no reason for your comment.</p><p>Hope it helps</p>
<p>Sorry about that. I did not notice the link, I should have digged deeper. I don't blame you for moving the files over Stratasys VS Affinia, I would have done the same thing.</p>
<p>No biggy, glad that it is cleared up.</p>
<p>remember this test is unsolvable without an aperture science portable quantum tunneling device</p>
How many kgs of material did you go through to print this?

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