Even with more reasonable torque it probably wouldn't make a great everyday drill press, it takes a lot of room and it's difficult adjusting it to drill square, but it's great for drilling series of consistent angled holes in wide pieces of wood. It can drill straight out and even upwards and still is light enough to carry.
Step 1: Parts
The head is from a hydraulic door closer I found in a pile of them at work. It might have been made by Ilco and it had green wrinkle finish, almost the same color as the feeder but that was something more like hammerite.
The quill is made from a 10.5" long piece of 1 5/8" 1/4" wall 1026 cold roll steel DOM seamless tube I bought from Metal Express, the current price is about $18.
The spindle might be a guide rail from a printer, I found a bunch of them loose in a dumpster, 14, 18 and 20mm diameter, hard outside with different amounts of rusty spots. I think the 30202 and A4050/A4038 tapered roller bearings I bought from a local bearing store were less than $20 each, now they're $25 and $27 from McMaster-Carr. Ball bearings would have been much more appropriate and easier to deal with, and probably cheaper. I used a TCM 20x35x7TC spring loaded double lip seal on the bottom, maybe $7, and just a piece of turned scrap UHMW-PE at the top, held in place with a TN-01 bearing nut, maybe $3.
A little $6 flea market universal motor electric drill drives it, but it would be nice to replace it with a 250 watt variable speed motor. It runs from a 52-tooth XL timing belt with two 15 tooth pullies. I might have got them from SDP/SI, $6 for the belt and $10 each for the pullies. They're a little small.
The feed yoke is a cutoff piece of aluminum bar bent into shape, pinned with pointed 1/4"-28 set screws to a split collar made from steel plate. The handle is a piece of 1/4" rod attached with a 10-32 button head cap screw, and the connecting rod is a piece of brass bar from a player piano exhauster pedal, held on with a couple dowel pins. I modified a 1/2" button head screw to clamp the steel toggle plate to the casting. The feed stop is a piece of leftover 5/16"-18 threaded rod with a couple hex nuts to jam against each other.
Step 2: Headstock
I sawed off the part of the door closer casting that had the mounting flange and enclosed the crank mechanism. The bearing assembly for the crank arm was tightly screwed on and firmly seated to the casting with a big, fine thread. The power feeder used bolts to draw tapers together to clamp things in place and all I had to do to combine the two pieces was make a piece threaded for the door closer with a taper to match the power feeder castings on the other end, and tap a hole for a clamping bolt.
Step 3: Spindle
My lathe isn't big enough to turn the whole thing between centers so I used a four-jaw chuck and a sensitive indicator to make things as accurate as I could. I probably used a steady rest as well.
The nose is threaded for ordinary drill chucks. I left a clean bit of the original outer surface for the seal in front of the seat for the lower bearing. The upper bearing has a slightly looser fit on the spindle and has a smaller diameter, and it is held in place with the homemade seal and store-bought bearing nut. The smallest diameter is at the end for the pulley.
Step 4: Quill
I faced and bored each end separately, using a four jaw chuck and steady rest. I had to remove the leadscrew so I could move the carriage back far enough and it helped that I had installed a carriage rack that's longer than normal. I was going to have the quill ground at a machine shop but I wound up honing it by hand on my wood lathe.
Step 5: Drive
Step 6: Feed
Step 7: Table
Step 8: Use
It still needs wipers, it could use a return spring, and vernier protractors for the different pivoting parts would be easy to make and might improve it. The table feed isn't positive, but there's about a meter of cable wound on the pulley to reduce slipping. I might make a vernier for the front, and will probably need to make a brake and way covers for it sometime.
Drilling speed depends entirely on the combination of material, bit size and feed rate, the feedback is kind of helpful but I ordered some surplus permanent magnet treadmill motors that might work better.