Actually, it's very easy to make. If you have wanted to do something vaguely electronic, but the whole electronic thing frightens you, this is a good place to start. You will be building about the simplest circuit there is (a light, battery and switch), but the effect is incredible. This project provides a nice combination of craft and technical challenges with an equally interesting result.
If you thought the other wand was amazing wait till you have seen this, it'll blow you away.
For more great making and doing projects, free printables and templates of the highest quality please see my site dadcando.
And if you make one of these post up a picture of it, or better still email me and I'll put a picture of your wand up on dadcando.
Please Note: You should never point a bright light into someone's eyes. Apart from the fact that it is not very nice to be dazzled, bright LEDs and Bright UV LEDs can in certain circumstances cause damage to the retina (the back of the eye that does the seeing!) and the cornea (the bit the light goes through). When scavenging bits from another device, never increase the battery voltage or add other components designed to up-rate the output of LEDs or lights, unless you really know what you are doing, because you can easily break them, give your self a shock or create a fire hazard.
As Zootboy has pointed out, only use the batteries suggested in the instructable because they have the correct internal resistance. Using batteries with a lower internal resistance could cause the batteries to heat up or the LED to get hot and burn out.
However, this is not a problem at all if you use the batteries suggested.
Step 1: Get a cheap UV marker and key ring LED set
Step 2: Take apart LED keyring
The batteries which come with most keyring lights are these CR2016 (that's 20mm diameter and 1.6mm thickness BTW). I felt that the diameter of 20mm was too much for a wand handle so i looked around for a narrower 6 volt battery. The best i found was the 6V camera battery 4LR44. As all our joins to the battery are going to be by taping the wires on the less batteries we have to join together the better, so a single battery for the whole 6v is what you want.
Step 3: Solder wire to the LED
To make it easier to solder, push the LED upside down into a piece of plastercine, blu-tack, corrugated or foam core cardboard. That way it is held steady while you concentrate on the soldering.
To get a goo solder join, tin the wire first (to tin the wire, hold the soldering iron on the wire and touch the solder on to the wire as well, when the wire is hot enough, the solder will melt and run along the strands of wire solidifying them together.)
Handle the soldering iron with extreme care as they get very hot and will burn you easily and badly, and will make holes in tables and carpets if knocked off their stands when hot. Also never pick a soldering iron up by the metal bit, you just don't know if it is still hot or not... always use the handle.
Step 4: Thread wires through drinking straw
You can put a blob of glue at the other end too just to make sure that it is all nice and secure.
Step 5: Prepare your batteries
I cut a hole in a piece of sticky tape using a hold punch (punch sticky side up) which makes a hole in the tape that is a perfect fit for the battery terminal.
Step 6: Insulate both ends of the battery
Step 7: Attach the wires to the battery
Step 8: Connect both wires and strap to battery sides
I have taken each wire from the battery and doubled it back over the battery and strapped it to the battery side with even more tape. This doubling back is to make sure that that it is not easy to pull the wires directly off the battery terminals
Step 9: Now start to make the wand outer itself
This is not going to be that easy. You must roll to get a taper, so that the big end is tight round the battery and the little end is as tight as possible round the straw without it all wrinkling up.
Start by folding the corner over and start by rolling it round the wires, as shown in the picture.
I really helps to have a couple of strips of double sided to help keep things in place while the glue is setting. DO NOT out too much glue on, it takes ages to dry and is not needed.
Try and aim to get the end of the straw lined up with the end of the paper. You don't have to get it to line up exactly, becuase we are going to be adding another bit of paper when we have done this anyway.
Be careful of the wires don't let them be twisted too much nor strain against the contacts.
Step 11: Roll up the end with a new piece of paper
Step 12: Trim larger end
Step 13: MAKE THE SWITCH
To make the hoop, bend the wore round a stick or handle of the same diameter as the larger end of the wand.
Step 14: Solder on the wires
Step 15: Set the switch gap
Now you are nearly ready to decorate your wand. But first you must fill the end with glue gun glue.
Step 16: Fill the end of the wand
I suggest that you roll a small bit of tissue into a small ball and pack the wand a little first. then fill the end in tow or three stages, making sure it has cooled a bit in between each filling. This should only take you about 10 minutes.
For the last bit make sure that the end bulges slightly so that you get a nice rounded finish.
If you go over the metal of the switch it might heat up the previous glue you did there and the switch might relax its position and touch the other contact. This is not a problem, just be aware that you might have to support the switch while the glue sets again. You could put a scrap of card between the switch contacts to stop them touching while the glue is setting.
Step 17: Add surface features with the glue gun
HOWEVER, it is a good idea to hide up the switch part so that no one will guess the more muggle working of your magical device. As they are only thin little paper clip wires it is quite easy to glue gun over them as part of the design.
In the second picture here you can see how I have gone over the metal clip and even carefully gone past the end of the metal so that the glue gun glue (plastic) joins back onto the wand.
NOTE: This is the finished wand with all the distressing (and some black shoe polish) done to it.
Step 18: Paint and distress your wand
1) Seal the wand with spray paint or emulsion (must be something that sets or dries water proof).
2) paint with wood colour or colour of your choice
3) paint with black mixed with a little water and wipe off as you go so that paint stays in the cracks and corners
4) detail with gold paste, gold paint, gold or silver marker pen or gold or silver leaf
Don't worry if you get a little bit of paint on the switch contacts and they stop working, all you have to do is carefully scratch off the paint to reveal the metal at the point where they touch.
HOWEVER take care not to spray the LED, the best way to do this is to wrap a scrap of tape round the end when you are spraying so that it stays unpainted.
Step 19: Finally your working wand
Now when you want to use the wand, remember to Swish and Flick and while holding it feel how you can press the switch without anyone noticing and say Lumos, or if it is dark say Lumos Maxima, very good, now then you are ready for the much harder charm, "Reveal your Secrets".
Experienced wizards know that for this to work, they first have to get a UV security Marker and draw or write a design that they will later want to reveal. You have a marker from the set you bought, so get drawing. Draw a marauder's Map, put the feet on it and then you can follow them round with the wand, but until you use your magic on the page no one will be able to see it.
NOW how cool is that?
To draw a Marauder's Ma I recommend drawing it in normal pen first and putting that under the page so that you have something to trace over with the UV pen, because it is very hard to draw or write things when you can't see what you are doing.
I am going to design a marauder;s map and put it up on dadcando as soon as I can so that all you magical wizards and witches can really have some fun.