I've seen multiple designs for a plasma speaker online, and quite frankly most of them suck. Some problems I noticed were constantly blowing up MOSFETs, distorted audio, excessive heating of the MOSFET(s) etc.
So, In this instructable I'll show you how to build the speaker that's on my website. Properly heat-sinked it'll be able to run continuously; I have run mine for a length of about 6 hours with no problems.
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Signing UpStep 1: Gather the parts
You'll need:
Components:
4x UF4007 diodes
4x 12 volt zener diodes
2x IRFP250 mosfets. You can also use some better fets, the lower the Rds On the better. Just make sure they can handle at least 200V, flybacks make some nasty back EMF.
1x SG3525 IC
1x LM7812
2x 22 ohm resistors
1x 2.2k resistor
1x 10k pot
2x 0.1uF (104) capacitors
1x 3.3nF (332) capacitor
1x 1uF (105) MKP capacitor
1x 2.2uF electrolytic capacitor
2x 10,000uF electrolytic capacitors If you use 40v 8000uF caps instead you can apply 36V and make the arc even bigger and louder. Just make sure to replace the 7812 with a 7815 or a 7818.
Other components:
A flyback transformer. You can get these out of old computer monitors, TVs etc.
A ferrite toroid. These may be inside computer monitors, but if you can't find one get it here.
Some 18ga wire.
Some 24 ga wire, the wire from inside of a telephone cable works great.
2 heat sinks, you can get them from a computer monitor. You'll need to use your scavenging abilities here. If you use 1 heat sink make sure you use some insulating pads.
Thermal goop.




























![speaker_small[1].jpg](/files/deriv/FGE/J6R8/GI0TD1AO/FGEJ6R8GI0TD1AO.LARGE.jpg)

















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I think I can build a circuit to invert half the pulse signal of the Arduino or 555. I need to load it into my simulator and try it.
Thanks for all your help, If I get it all worked out I'll try to post a video or maybe an instructable of my own.
Great design! I'll give it a try!
I realy like the gate driving toroid idea!
About the MOSFETs now, I am trying to find one with low on resistance
but I think the turn-on delay and rise time will be nice to be low as well.
What do you think?
Also in a 36V setup (3 x 12V battaries) would a simple 7815 sufice?
What do you calculate the voltage drop to be there, and the current as well?
Thank you in advance!
Again, nice work!
What frequency did you find works best?
Also what do you suppose is the max current through each MOSFET?
Would 20A continuous be enough?
I am looking at the IRFP360...
Also, I'm trying to find some higher quality MOSFETS, by "lower the RDS" you mean lower closing resistance?
AND is this ok as the voltage reglurator when using 8200uF caps?
http://ee.farnell.com/fairchild-semiconductor/lm7815ct/ic-v-reg-fixed-15v/dp/1467366
Do the VDC and VAC matter? Does the material matter?
Instructables just bunches all comments together on page one too causing the confusion.
Its purpose is to isolate the mosfets from the IC.
XD
Thanks
how can it get louder? From what I understand, a biger arc will be needed for more sound, and higher voltages will be needed for a bigger arc. How big is this "bigger"? Is pluging the whole thing on the wall safe enough or are we risking frying something? :P
The batteries you are suggesting, for how much time can they power the speaker before they empty? Is there any solution that is renewable in the sense that it can be used over and over again without buying new ones-even with some recharging (if using the houses power supply is out of the question).
For the flyback, I don't have anything old available in order to scavenge. For what features should I look to get good performance?
In the videos I notice there is some noise from the arc jumping around. Would a fatter cable or a "big" (say, .5cm diameter) electrode help reduce that?
And to end the torrent of questions, about how much power does the whole thing draw? I'm guessing it's quite energy hungry.
Neat idea.
I built the circuit and ran it from a laptop charger at 12 V. It worked fine, until I increased the voltage to 24 V. The circuit simply stopped working. I checked every soldering and wire on the board, and all of them are fine. What could be wrong?
There is no voltage between the wires which go from the board to the flyback.
PS: I used exactly the same parts listed in step 1.
any ideas?
(P.S. sorry my english :-))
Here is mine
Alex.
Thanks
Here's a video of the circuit:
http://s463.photobucket.com/albums/qq358/adeebm_photos/Random/?action=view¤t=ac26b66a.mp4
I have also now added a totem pole transistor buffer stage between the chip outputs and GDT to help reduce MOSFET heating, which it seems to working somewhat.
Parts are noncritical. Any 1uF non electrolytic cap will work for this! What this is is an analog electronics circuit, and thus,
#1, It probably won't work for you without tweaking. Analog circuits never do.
#2, Many parts can be swapped for others without much hassle.
my flyback does produce +-1 cm sparks at really small intervals but it doesnt create a ''beam'' so its just producing a lot of sparking noice and as far as i can hear unaffected by the modulation if you or anyone else has a qlue please let me know something its quite a dissapointment to get it working this far and being unable to get it working.
seriously if some1 has an idea please let me know i just keep checking my circuit but i cant find any errors.
These tend to lack the lower bass end, but are fairly good considering how they work :)
I want to build a powersource out of an pc supply but the negative 12v only provides 1A (+12v = 16A) so.
Do you have a clue if this will provide more than 9A or will it be limited by the negative 12V?
They're used a lot for audio type stuff, most of these are overkill on the voltage
you can run it on everthing basicly as long as its dc so suppose you rectify your 230v outlet or 110 or whatever they have in america you can even use that
They are used to keep the attached devise within it's normal operating temperatures.Without a heat sink the devise would overheat very quickly and be destroyed.
Got a question, what if I got less turns on the ferrite? I could only get 10!
Thanx
what could be wrong?
my setup is drawing next to no amps im running everything uncooled atm and the only thing that gets slightly warm is the voltage regulator the mossfets stay cool to the touch.
im gonna buy some batteries tomorow and just connect them for a sec see what happends.
also after running it for a minute i can smell it yet nothing is getting warm though i can hear my flyback producing high frequenty sound i got it from an tv i found on the pavement so it could be broken.
so have you ever measured the voltage over your mossfets and caps? what were ur results?
i really hope to hear from you soon im kinda confused why one mossfet only gets half the voltage i checked the schemathic tons of times so i could really use a hand here.
by the way im verry glad your helping me im asking some stupid questions i know, its not that i dont know how to read schemathics but the problem is i have never worked with an IC before so i got totally lost in this one i find it pretty complicated.
i powered my plasma speaker up for the first time with one of those wall socket transformers and i get some minor sparks (tried to put audio in but i couldnt form a real arc so it doesnt work yet).
so i tried giving it some more juice and connected it to a 24v car battery charger everything worked as expected and i get sparks but no real arc so i measured how many amps i pulled and it whas close to nothing so my reall question is does anyone know if its just the charger limiting the current it gives me? or did i mess up somewhere?
i hope its just the charger if it is ill just buy my batteries and hook em up because my circuit seems fine.
Thanks
because the store only had those at the time i whas there so i told them idd give it a try.
ill rate you 5 stars any other way i can give u some sort of support? exept for giving u my life savings =p
If I can't find a cheap car battery, how will the performance change given more/less current than 4A, or more/less voltage than 24v?
again if its allready been answered im sorry just my first day here.
Is the SG3525 supposed to get really hot? And should there be a flat 4v accross the audio in when not connected?
I never got it working. Any guesses on possible problems? I also used a "cute little flyback" as the transformer and my GDT had 15 or 16 winds. I think everything else is the same.
Thanks!
we got ours working right away after doing that. (except some arcing over the bottom of our perfboard (we even had removed the copper pads!) we fixed that by moving the flyback to a separate board.
anyways good luck ;)
P.S. oh and we made a 36 V version and i just wanted to say that the LM7818 get´s REALLY hot, so a heatsink for that is needed. dont know about the dip chip though
Btw, nice project!
You put the capacitor in parallel with teh dc output, and then hook it up to whatever you're going to use. Make sure that the rectifier is on a heatsink, and check the polarity of everything.
Good luck
the input of the LM338 should be around 30 V and rectified.
google LM338 and see the pictures.
(here is a rather expensive though REALLY nice PSU that you could build:
http://www.dogbreath.de/Chipamps/LM338PSU/LM338PSU.html)
also here are some great pictures of a board. Using two LM338´s in TO-220 versions.
i cant seem to find any 40V 8000µF caps. however digikey sells some 10000µF 40V, does it have to be 8000µF if you go for the 36V LM7818 instead?
http://il.rsdelivers.com/product/vishay/2222-335-10223/335-mkp-x2-polyprop-cap-250v-0022uf/1669436.aspx
Would this work in place of the 332? Also my flyback had some ferrite cores around it, would these help eliminate noise or are they pretty much useless? Great instructable grenadier!
Not sure what you mean by "ferrite cores around it"
http://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGEK
. The chip runs hot also------- my question is if the mosfets were blown would I be able to hear faint music and have a spark or is it residual pickup from GDT and flyback. Lastly flyback has smoothing capacitor built in and does GDT /Flyback proximity matter.
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated as I do not enjoy failing so miserably. :0
Nice Instructables, thanks, all is very clear to understand. I made it and it works fine, almost like yours.
I have a question, i would like to put a 39V AC transformator. How i could modify the schema, for all works fine ?
I've tried to put x3 UH4007 in serial, but as i know it was limited to 1A, and speaker works only a little time. I've put for this test too a 7818V.
My wish is to working with this 39AC 7A, transformator.
Almost all things was taken from an older CRT Sun Display 21''.
Great job thanks again !
Excellent guide by the way
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rjnJitWcec
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CESon07DZNI
...some ideas?
Using the pot the arc stop making noise,
but when i send some music its very hard to listen ,the arc coming very noise and overlap the music , and again using the pot and the volume of the source l can listen for very short time and very low volume some part of the song, the noise is back and forth all the time
i used different source of music and cable, mp3 player , cell phone, pocket FM radio and Computer , i cant see any different the noise is the same for any device...
i use 2 APC RBC2 battery 12 v 7.5 ah
some sugestions?
I have built your first plasma speaker several times and that works fine, its just a bit scratchy(anything you might know why?) and i have two AC flybacks which help smooth out the arc and make better music.
But i just cant get this circuit to draw even a single amp. Any ideas?
also make sure to check if you have any break in your circuit or something(although that's obvious)
Any suggestions?
www.diysmps.com/forums
Just wondering about how to make a more permanent power supply if a PSU won't work.
Current is also dependent on the frequency too. A higher frequency means more current. At 70khz my speaker uses about 8A, at 40khz it uses 2.
If you use 40v 8000uF caps instead you can apply 36V and make the arc even bigger and louder. Just make sure to replace the 7812 with a 7815 or a 7818.
It might be unrelated, but my 'audio' seems to be emanating from inside the flyback, rather than the spark gap.
I really can't seem to get a big enough spark that doesn't squeak. Should I play about with the flyback windings, or the GDT?(already soldered that, d'oh)
Note: Don't try to draw anthing above supply rating or it automaticly will shut off and you will need disconnect and reconnect the green wire to make it run again.
http://cgi.ebay.com/24V-4A-96W-power-supply-AC-adaptor-LED-Strip-RGB-/260757826060?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb660aa0c#ht_1795wt_972
its 24v 4a power supply...
this seems much more logical than buying a heavy duty battery
The thing is with analog electronics, there is a lot that can go wrong. By the problems yoou described it sounds like something has been shorted on the IC's output.
:D
can't you use something else? like a wall adapter..
or anything else i would have lying around?
thanks
I'm about to rip apart some CRT monitors and pull out some flybacks, some HV caps and other fun stuff. hopefully I get a nice flyback, and some parts I won't have to buy.
I'm going to wait for the MIT swapfest to start again in april and begin this project. This is awesome man!
also, why do the two diagrams say different amounts of current on the power source
one says 24V 10A and one says 24V 4A
This should only cost about $20, maybe less to make if you pulled the heatsink and flyback from a PC monitor.
Altogether it should cost about $25, provided you scavenged the heat sink and flyback from a computer monitor.
i did a research in Google, but only confused me more
I use a voltmeter and found continuity in this pins: (1 , 2) ,(6 , 7 , 12) and (8, 9), but i cant found any resistance in all of them
of course i'm a newbie ...
I followed the instructions from http://lifters.online.fr/lifters/labhvps/tht.htm but using a single +12 v pc power supply and i found these values in the following pin
pin 11 -> 0.18v
pin 13 -> 0.12v
pin 14 -> 0.33v
I'm just guessing but ... I think the V0 pin 11 is the connection of the secundary coil, is that the pin that I'm looking for?
thanks!
I was wondering if you could comment on which circuit would offer the least feedback and produce the most reliable speaker/circuit... thank you!
I've built this circuit and am having a few problems. I keep blowing the 22 ohm resistors on the MOSFETs. Secondly, the lm7812 is getting incredibly hot. I put a heatsink on it, but is this normal? Also, so far, I have not gotten any sort of output from the transformer. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
The only way that you could possibly blow up those resistors is by having one lead on ground and the other lead on 24V. Something must have been wired horribly wrong.
Check your mosfets, they should measure megohms across source and drain and drain and gate. If you get something like a couple ohms or kiliohms they're shot.
my 3 questions is
how big would it need to be to equal say powered computer speakers ?
or regular home stereo speakers ?
and what would need to change to have it work for either of those
so refrigeration would be needed to keep the electronics and the transformer
from burning out
as for the distortion part
it's just a matter of using the right materials
so that it focases the energy correctly
but it would be possible with testing and retesting to find the right combination
I know making one the size of a concert size would be nuts
but some thing about 14 " high would be possible beyond that size
no indoor use or even near any thing that would easy burn
A 14 inch arc would use about 3,000 watts of electricity, something that is achievable provided you invest the time and money. Some IGBTs for a half bride or even a full bridge could supply the electricity, the transformer would have to be handmade.
It seems much trouble to animate sound on a small scale.
Thank you for your time and effort.
Since this circuit uses a gate drive transformer, the mosfets and the circuitry don't even need to share a common ground for this to work. It's as simple as doing this:
Here: http://teravolt.org/Plasma_Speaker_2_files/schem1.png
After that I'll try winding an air core transformer for it, better frequency response, but less efficient.
this is the flyback i found, but i'm not sure if there's anything there for me to wrap the wire around.
Does putting an electrically insulated magnet near it change the sound?
I'm having trouble sourcing the SG3525 IC, IRFP250 MOSFETS and the UF4007 Diodes.
What source did you use? my normal suppliers here in Australia are either ex- UK or Ex sydney but $39 delivery due to small order size etc..
Any ideas?
au.element14.com
Min $10 order, but so long as you're ordering enough to hit that, it's free next day shipping no matter the order. If you come up short just order some LEDs or other random stuff to fill your parts box :)
The mosfets can be substituted for any fet that can handle >100V and >15A.
You can use the KA3525 IC instead of the SG3525.
Its nice to see a gate drive transformer ! I haven't used one in years - I usually use one of the special ICs now.
Getting higher volume might require an exponential horn to couple the arc to the air effectively.
Oh yeah, and make sure you vent the ozone - its nasty.
Steve
and how more ozon how longer the arc
if you modulate a engine it beeps or sings
but it will not turn
unlet the frequentie is verry low
only with a 555 and more power
it is your instructable
so you decite if i may do that
http://cgi.ebay.com/24-VOLT-CCTV-POWER-SUPPLY-24VAC-20VA-TRANSFORMER-24V-/370458350687?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564109d45f
I'm not sure how many amps this speaker needs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/24V-10A-240W-Switching-Power-Supply-LED-Strip-light-/220694164876?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336265b58c
Can anyone else find anything cheaper. Thank You
Don't use negative voltages because this circuit is 0V ground. If you use -12V ground and plug in an audio source that is at 0V ground you'll kill the audio source and possibly the circuit.
Head out to your local thrift store where you'll inevitably find 50+ sets/lone speakers (specifically if the set is incomplete; if you point it out they'll usually make it $1 or just give it to you). I got some really great Logitech home theater consoles and a few JBL home theater sets. If you don't end up just using whatever you find as it is, the power supply in these high end speakers tends to produce some exceptionally clean power. I hooked the JBL one up to a scope, and it was very, very clean, especially compared to the other options. One can usually find cheap incomplete high end speakers at thrift stores.
Great instructable, btw.
Couple of typos in the Instructable:
- in the part list: LM7182 should be LM7812, although the link is correct.
- in Part 8 you reference eBay as eGay, not sure if that was intentional but I thought I'd mention it just in case.
#2 was intentional.
KUDOs for such a lovely project.
Truly you have this man's respect!.
Thank you so much!
- Dave
AKA Eight
from Down Under, on the left.
you can make a plasma speaker out of a plasma globe
you seek the mofsfet inside the plasma globe
remove it and replace it with something better
and dont conect the base
the base is fed from this circut (or any old 555)
and also what you should do is make a ground conection between this circut and the circut of the plasma globe
when you are done the plasma globe circut gets the high voltage
and this circut (555) does the tuning
if you have done it right you will have a modulated plasma globe
and if the problem is blowing the IC, couldnt you get a heatsink/double up on IC's/get stronger IC's/whatever other random solution to boost the sound more?
awesome project though, would really look awesome inside some glass vial in a steampunked stereo or something, ignoring the part that it also makes sound!
The problem isn't boosting the sound electrically, it's just that as you turn up the volume the music gets distorted. That's the arc's fault, not the chip's.
it is the circut tuning
but your setup could be stable up to 30KV
it only needs a frequentie of 20-40KHZ
and 50V on the primary windings
and you should have 10-20 cm arks with 50 db (i beleve that was right)
i could get 30db out of a 555 (it explodes beond that) with a normal speaker
Plus those are only 32V caps.
well get an other flyback
are the caps the small
well buid a circut that is maddable and use cheap high voltage parts 100V+
when i work with tubes i use 450V caps even when the voltage never reaches 250V
it can be stronger
it were tips for other people
my list is getting really long :P
someday....
(Great track too - Supertramp are one of my favourite bands.)