Control the colour of a powerful LED light beam with a remote control, store the colours and recall them at will.
With this thing I can control the colour of a bright light into many different colours using the three fundamentals colours : red green and blue. Adding them toghether with different intensity can yeld very great a range of colours from the visible spectrum.
Specifically my mood lamp can shift colours through 32 intensity values for each RGB colour giving
32*32*32 = 32768 different combinations of hue, intensity and brightness. It can also store 10 different combinations can be turned on or off, all of these through a TV remote control.
The intensity of each red, green and blue component is done via PWM so heat dissipation is kept to a minimum.
The circuit is simple and there are no pushbuttons as control is done entirely through the remote control.
I use this circuit to light a flower vase. The flat case of the box I chose does a good job at balancing the vase.
The pictures provide some ideas.
One day I am possibly buying one of those glass cubes with LASER created 3D shapes inside to go with the lamp. For now glass vases are just fine.
UPDATE : I uploaded V1.1 where at power up the micro outputs the values from memory number 0. Just make sure you store your power up colour in memory number 0 and at power up it will show up. If you'd rather go for lights off, just store all blanks in memory numer 0.
Ciao
Hey I'm on the best of Instructables book !
With this thing I can control the colour of a bright light into many different colours using the three fundamentals colours : red green and blue. Adding them toghether with different intensity can yeld very great a range of colours from the visible spectrum.
Specifically my mood lamp can shift colours through 32 intensity values for each RGB colour giving
32*32*32 = 32768 different combinations of hue, intensity and brightness. It can also store 10 different combinations can be turned on or off, all of these through a TV remote control.
The intensity of each red, green and blue component is done via PWM so heat dissipation is kept to a minimum.
The circuit is simple and there are no pushbuttons as control is done entirely through the remote control.
I use this circuit to light a flower vase. The flat case of the box I chose does a good job at balancing the vase.
The pictures provide some ideas.
One day I am possibly buying one of those glass cubes with LASER created 3D shapes inside to go with the lamp. For now glass vases are just fine.
UPDATE : I uploaded V1.1 where at power up the micro outputs the values from memory number 0. Just make sure you store your power up colour in memory number 0 and at power up it will show up. If you'd rather go for lights off, just store all blanks in memory numer 0.
Ciao
Hey I'm on the best of Instructables book !
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The LED I chose is a Seoul Semiconductors single chip. It is pretty expensive, but it is powerful giving a very bright light. It provides also an excellent colour blending.
It could be replaced by cheaper and probably equivalent ones; when I designed this, it was the only one suitable I could find.
Due to the LED's high power rating it is absolutely necessary to provide it with a reasonable heat sink like the one you see in the photos; before putting the finished circuit in a case check the LEDs for heat at maximum intensity on all of the three colours. The current limiting resistors I chose match my LED only !
I chose a 10% less than the typical recommended V-I values on the datasheet curves.
Being the circuit in a plastic case it is not safe to pull dissipation any higher while a metallic case with an external dissipation scheme might make safe to pull the LEDs currents a make a more powerful beam.
Different LEDs do have different ratings. Check the datasheets for maximum dissipation and recommendations for your LED.
I purchased my LED online from Distrelec. Farnellinone carries them also.
The drivers are surplus NPN transistors over-dimensioned for the current required. Less powerful TO126 encased NPNs should do fine. As the Transistor are driven with PWM, their dissipation is kept to a minimum so heat sink is not necessary.
The IR receiver is one i savaged from a dead TV toghether with the remote control. The receiver has a metallic screen that should be grounded to 0V. Some newer small-sized ones are from Temic and can be bought from the same sources as above. Practically any receiver works fine, provided that it has 5Volt logic levels (and supply) and has the same (or close) carier frequency as the remote transmitter (typically 38-50kHz). When demolishing a TV or any other remote controlled piece of equipmentm, a good rule is to save both the remote and the receiver. By the way, I love saving transformers, VFD, motors as well, but that's another story.
This lamp uses an european RC5 standard for Philips TV remotes; Any programmable remote control that supports Philips TVs should be fine, I tried one and it works.
Both remote decoding and PWM generating routines should be understandable from the source code I commented.
The circuit must be supplied from a 5 Volt, 1A good source. Initially I used a linear voltage regulator IC on the board into the case, but the heat generated by the regulator was way too much to be easily dissipated from within the box, so I removed it and now I'm using anexternal waal adapter with a regulated 5V 3A output. The LEDs are powered directly from the 5Volt, so any variation would trash your precise calculations for currents to flow through the LEDs, possibly damaging them. So, the better and stable the supply, the better.
The case I chose is a Teko TB9, it looks elegant to me and small transparent objects can be placed on top of the case+LED without the risk of falling.
It could be replaced by cheaper and probably equivalent ones; when I designed this, it was the only one suitable I could find.
Due to the LED's high power rating it is absolutely necessary to provide it with a reasonable heat sink like the one you see in the photos; before putting the finished circuit in a case check the LEDs for heat at maximum intensity on all of the three colours. The current limiting resistors I chose match my LED only !
I chose a 10% less than the typical recommended V-I values on the datasheet curves.
Being the circuit in a plastic case it is not safe to pull dissipation any higher while a metallic case with an external dissipation scheme might make safe to pull the LEDs currents a make a more powerful beam.
Different LEDs do have different ratings. Check the datasheets for maximum dissipation and recommendations for your LED.
I purchased my LED online from Distrelec. Farnellinone carries them also.
The drivers are surplus NPN transistors over-dimensioned for the current required. Less powerful TO126 encased NPNs should do fine. As the Transistor are driven with PWM, their dissipation is kept to a minimum so heat sink is not necessary.
The IR receiver is one i savaged from a dead TV toghether with the remote control. The receiver has a metallic screen that should be grounded to 0V. Some newer small-sized ones are from Temic and can be bought from the same sources as above. Practically any receiver works fine, provided that it has 5Volt logic levels (and supply) and has the same (or close) carier frequency as the remote transmitter (typically 38-50kHz). When demolishing a TV or any other remote controlled piece of equipmentm, a good rule is to save both the remote and the receiver. By the way, I love saving transformers, VFD, motors as well, but that's another story.
This lamp uses an european RC5 standard for Philips TV remotes; Any programmable remote control that supports Philips TVs should be fine, I tried one and it works.
Both remote decoding and PWM generating routines should be understandable from the source code I commented.
The circuit must be supplied from a 5 Volt, 1A good source. Initially I used a linear voltage regulator IC on the board into the case, but the heat generated by the regulator was way too much to be easily dissipated from within the box, so I removed it and now I'm using anexternal waal adapter with a regulated 5V 3A output. The LEDs are powered directly from the 5Volt, so any variation would trash your precise calculations for currents to flow through the LEDs, possibly damaging them. So, the better and stable the supply, the better.
The case I chose is a Teko TB9, it looks elegant to me and small transparent objects can be placed on top of the case+LED without the risk of falling.
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It does not react except of random change off colour on any of 400 codes of universal remote.
Let me just ask, can i use 16F627 [not 627A] or 16F628A, because i cant find anywhere 16F627A???
I have 16F627 and i cant program it at all, error ocures. 16f628a i programable, but it is not working as it should.
And at the end, what is the difference between 627 and 627a?
Thanks!
Build_it_Bob
Some reader might start a simple service (with a veeeeery reasonable fee, remember : this project is CC non commercial, but a reasonable fee would be fine for me to be charged to the buyers ! )
In case someone wants to volunteer, just write.
Thank
A.
I opened the box to check and found that I actually used a 2SD 2012.
Sorry for the inconvenient.
I uploaded the pdf file.
Best to all
Alex
I tried a lot of rgb fading lamps and the best color fading without jerking has this lamp:http://tobe.nimio.info/led_mood_lamp.php. I have this one in slow color fading mode and looks great. Maybe you can look to its code for algorithm you need.If you find some time of course...
tomy
thanks for the tip, Sky 's remote are becoming quite common here in Italy and this helps.
It has been a long time since I did my last project with PICs. For some reason (good ones, I'd say, like free the C compiler and a better instructions set and a better oscillator : the PICs ALWAYS drived me crazy...) Anyways PICs are not forgotten, they are great micros like we know.
The new project....I really don't remember what I was talking about : I started and dropped a lot of projects in the meantime, maybe it was the RGB light based on light bulbs ( it's on my site http://www.5volt.eu ). Just be careful : that thing is powered by the mains and could be veeeery dangerous.
Ciao
A.
P.S. While checking the spelling of this message, the applet could not find the word "Italy" and suggested "Idly" for a replacement....Is there a message here ? LOL
A.
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/46673.pdf
If you can guarantee a different one to work I'll make sure I get it and try it. Thanks so much for continuing to provide support, it is appreciated.